2 channel in wall dimmer
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I have now made a new layout on this where i have added a Thermal cut off resistor as well. This made me rearrange some things on the board. At the moment I am still investigating the best triac to use and if it will be "quiet" enough on the line if i use the snubberless version of the triac.
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Here is the current schematic of the design.
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Interesting! Im following this since im also trying to figure out a good in-wall sollution.
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First attempt to see how a box could look like
Diameter 56 mm 50 mmside to side
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I like it, what sort of switch would be on the wall?
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I like the project very much.
How are you sure that this hardware circuit is suitable and safe to give stable output ? I am asking that because I studied electronics but still see that a lot of knowledge are missing to implement such circuit. so, how did you learn this ? This is not a normal full wave rectifier :) It looks professional
Thanks.
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Very nice Denke,
I suspect this unit is going to be mounted in wall behind the existing switch and wonder if existing switch can be used to control the dimming. The switch have to have spring return naturally.
Excellent work
Goran -
@Denke Can you share your files for this design?
It would be awesome and this looks great! -
Hi all
I will try to answer your questions.Q: what sort of switch would be on the wall?
For this design i would recommend that you use 230 V rated switch to control the dimmer. The output is still only 0V that you switch on and off. But the design is made in such a way that if you get short circuit on the capacitor in series in to the rectifier there can be 230 V on the input pins ( very unlikely because of other things will burn) but it can happen.Q: How are you sure that this hardware circuit …….
Doing a little benchmark and understand how dimmers and switches from NEXA or similar are working. Actually I ripped them apart and found out that they were using transformer less designs. From that I Googled this and read up on the topic as well as discussed this with colleges of mine. I then changed some parts as the transformerless design would in simulation not give more than 10mA so I added the MAX 17552 circuit in between and set the input voltage to 24 V with the zener diode and by that I will be able to draw about 30 mA (starting current of the circuit that I tested is around 24 mA).
Q: I suspect this unit is going to be mounted in wall behind……..
Yes of course but just use it as the switch, what I mean is that don’t use at ordinary switch were 230 V is applied. The circuit is designed to just feel a logic zero on one of the inputs. ( just make sure that you read my first reply above for safety reasons)
Q: can we control Celling fan using this dimmer.
Should not be a problem as I have used Triacs that are made for inductive load (not tested though). But the fan should not consume more than 4A. I also have not tested from a heat perspective how much power I can have running in the system. It might be less than the 2 channels times 4A. -
I have not descided yet if this is something i will sell or not so before i take that descision i will not share the actual design files but I will be happy to answer questions around the design and the considerations i have taken.
I might post a question later on if someone wants to join on first ordering for the prototypes/functional version, as this is the first step, primaraly to equip my house with these gadgets. In such a case i will offer those dimmers for a very low cost
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So, what is the problem of sharing design as open hardware and at the same time sell your boards assembled?
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Thanks for answering.
I have a question regarding dimmer circuit. I read that these circuits needs EMI filter. Is this something else rather than adding a snubber circuit ?
This issue I found in this link : http://hackaday.com/2015/04/19/switch-mains-power-with-an-esp8266/
the TRIAC will dump out a ton of EMI (that’s why most commercial dimmers have to have a choke in series with the load to be able to get FCC certification).
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Thanks for answering.
I have a question regarding dimmer circuit. I read that these circuits needs EMI filter. Is this something else rather than adding a snubber circuit ?
This issue I found in this link : http://hackaday.com/2015/04/19/switch-mains-power-with-an-esp8266/
the TRIAC will dump out a ton of EMI (that’s why most commercial dimmers have to have a choke in series with the load to be able to get FCC certification).
@ahmedadelhosni
Hi This circuit is not tested yet and can as you describe put out some or as stated a lot of EMI (Electro Magnetic Interference). I have not yet taken this in to account when designing this but have had it in the back of my head for something to look in to.The snubber circuit is more to protect agains "current rush" when you switch of an inductive load. This is actually something you use on the 5 volt side of relays to protect the transistor from breaking down. Andyou should also use on the output side of a relay for example if the cable you are runnigng is long or you want to switch of an inductive load
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@ahmedadelhosni
Hi This circuit is not tested yet and can as you describe put out some or as stated a lot of EMI (Electro Magnetic Interference). I have not yet taken this in to account when designing this but have had it in the back of my head for something to look in to.The snubber circuit is more to protect agains "current rush" when you switch of an inductive load. This is actually something you use on the 5 volt side of relays to protect the transistor from breaking down. Andyou should also use on the output side of a relay for example if the cable you are runnigng is long or you want to switch of an inductive load
@Denke clear enough. Thanks
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Hello @Denke , any updates about your progress ?
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This will make your box less
https://ac-dc.power.com/products/linkswitch-family/linkswitch-tn/