💬 Roller Shutter Node

[scalz]

@Fabien
i will take a look asap.. i'm actually playing with my nano32, and some design ;)
perhaps for the atsam version when more time to release..

@Takero
thx for feedback :+1:

• i'll look to your suggestions too. for the wheeling diode if i remember it's integrated in the relay driver. depends what you mean.
• For sketch, hehe, i warned it was not complete :) but the most important there. I'll look at your change and update it, sure !i have actually no time to play with it, still using an old sketch.

too much coding to do, and hardware to play! but this is so fun :)

see you soon

[Takero]

@scalz said:

for the wheeling diode if i remember it's integrated in the relay driver. depends what you mean

It isn't :-)

[scalz]

well, it is a zener, not wheeling diode, which should be enough..
http://www.onsemi.com/pub_link/Collateral/MDC3105-D.PDF
perhaps not for nrf! cool if it improves.

sidenote: i won't change nrf version in future. as i only have rfm69 (doing nrf was bonus), i don't want to waste my time improving both! and i have enough pcb ahah

[Takero]

Dont Care :-) its cool. Zenner its not enoth but dont worry. I need it .. the nrf is verry "female" :-D (sensible). But i think for both version, you have to modify the current messurment. No Roller shutter has >200w so u are on the Limit below 100w of adc scale.

But hey it Works and your Layout is verry cool and Safe.

[Fabien]

Very stange. Zener in forward side is equivalent to classical diode.
@Takero, you change the amplifier ? Wich mods did you make ?

[Takero]

I was a little bit bussy the last days.
My Nodes are completed installed right now, it works well. BUT, i had to change some thinks.

I had the Probleme of automatic reset of the device if i set the shutter to 50% or anythink else 0% or 100%.
The Diode alone dont solve these Probleme. I think the Problem is to stop the shutter while running. If i set it to 100% or 0% the shutter shut of before the relay falls down.

I solve the Problem with a 220uF Capacitor at the 3.3V Out and deactivate the BOD.

My Fuses right now: L: CF // H:DA // E:07

Now it works very well!!

@Fabien: I dont change the amp . . i just tested some thinks but it wont work . . for i dont use the current messurment and setup the Node with the manual endstop. It works realy good!

Finaly again, Thanks @scalz

The Temp. of the devices is below 30°C ;-)

In the picture the green temp.

[fabiancrg]

Hi
I was wondering if the ACS712 can detect the current if the roller shutter power is 85W?

[kduino]

Hi, there is something similar available although without an ac712. So you can't check the percentage o the shutter.
See https://github.com/JanGoe/esp8266-wifi-relay
I had one at home and it is working well. Because of the esp8266 it is directly connected to any controller using udp or MQTT or other protocols.
The only problem is the missing box. I have to admit I wouldn't put this in my wall without a proper box using AC 240 V!!!
The project you proposed is of course the most advanced. Do you think there is a smaller version available perhaps less parts on the BOM and easy to build?
Thank you very much, kduino

[Fabien]

Cloudy/rainning day ... Good for MySensors

[Fabien]

There is a mistake on the above photo. Radios are on the wrong way (180°)

[Fabien]

@scalz, little mistake on BOM, C4 is 100n AND 10n ..

[Sergio Rodrigues]

Hi, I make this project, pretty cool.

How I can upload the firmware? What I need to do?

[scalz]

@Sergio-Rodrigues
It's better to talk about this here instead of private, so other people can learn or help you ;)

it's "like" programming an arduino board.

1. in arduino ide, program bootloader (for these, i used the sensebender board in Board manager).
2. Then, with a FTDI adapter, program the rollershutter sketch.

For more infos on programming arduino:

• see official docs from arduino website
• https://www.mysensors.org/about/fota for a bootloader programming example

What do you need to know exactly ??

[Fabien]

Finnaly I find a solution with a very good WAF !
I want to keep a sort of manual command (not gateway or controller dependant) and I don't want an expensive solution (my ODACE schneider button are quite expensive and I don't want to buy other button).
But these button measure 38mm depth and @scalz board is about 20mm. My wall boxes are 50mm !
Si I find some special wall boxes with an enclosure for home automation module. It's cheap (about 3€) and very well designed (french RT2012 compliant). I update the sketch with MY_TRANSPORT_WAIT_READY_MS so node can work alone. And I update sketch to work with bistable button. Works well on 2 windows since yesterday.
Here is a photo before :

[hek]

Almost looks like this type type of part-rubber box that can be mounted without tearing down the wall:

https://www.eldirekt.se/elmaterial/elinstallation/infallda-dosor/multidosa-big-box

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pwoyoTrJr4g

[Fabien]

Some other photos (sorry, first one is not in the same room) :

[Fabien]

One test screenshot (not definitive) of my habpanel (openHab 2.0 part).
I'm using OpenHAB mysensors binding (from @TimO), node-red for rules, habpanel for UI, Tasker on android (for example open all RollerShuter just after morning alarm !).
I can access OpenHAB via nginx reverse proxy with https and on my LAN, home automation have a separate VLAN (for security reasons). Thanks a lot to @scalz for this module.

[Soloam]

@scalz great work, sorry to dig up the topic, but good topics never die ( :) ). Can you clarify some questions?

• Way did you used 2 different relays? Way not only one type?
• What is the Amp consumption of your motors? I know that 10A is overkill, but just to get one idea. Would 2A do it? (at 220V)
• I see that you added a 8Mhz Cristal, way not use the internal clock? It's 8Mhz
• I see that you use a relay driver, correct me if I'm wrong, that is because the rated coil consumption to those relays is 80mA.

Thank You
Great Work

[Fabien]

@Soloam
2 relay for interlocking system and add more security.
I never mesure my current but it's low ... not 10A !
Internal clock is not very precise and can vary with external parameters like temperature. And for this project it's better to have good precision.
It's always better to use relay driver and not directly arduino pin.

[Soloam]

@fabien said in 💬 Roller Shutter Node:

@Soloam
2 relay for interlocking system and add more security.
I never mesure my current but it's low ... not 10A !
Internal clock is not very precise and can vary with external parameters like temperature. And for this project it's better to have good precision.
It's always better to use relay driver and not directly arduino pin.

Thank you @Fabien all very clarifying, only one thing that I don't understand (sorry, but I like to use this projects to learn and improve my personal knowledge) I still don't understand way the relays are different model numbers, from what I can see, one is 4 pins, and the other 5 pins, or I'm miss interpreting?

Thank you