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Mys Interposer NRF/Arduino Pro Mini

openhardware.io last edited by openhardware.io

https://www.openhardware.io/view/56/Mys-Interposer-NRFArduino-Pro-Mini
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Mountek Angel last edited by

Hi, any plans to sell this design on PCBways?
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terxw last edited by

I would like to see panelized version for dirtypcb, someone?
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enlo last edited by

I ordered a batch from PCBs.io
With the permission of the orginal author, I could enable sharing it there, which should reduce the price...
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hello, i know it is late, but others could see it too. i had the same problem running small (LOW POWER) modules on power banks, because the battery or power bank has a built in power meter, while it is charging and consuming power, there will be power on the USB port, but the arduino's consumption is very tiny regarding charging a phone. you need to disable this feature somehow.
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@Samuel235 said in Homini AC Powered Relay (2) Module: OMRON G3MB-202P Okay I'm trying to help you with the fuse component. I found a datasheet for the OMRON G3MB-202P. And there are enoght information to be known for fuse selection. I try to calculate it here (and i will try it with my bad English ). The most important information is the melting integral. The Melting integral has A²s as unit. So this means the maximum current for a time can exists without damaging the device. For further information look at wikipedia. So we need any further information about: the protection which is present before (the typical circuit protection in private houses) the melting integral from the device which we want to protect the maximum voltage the maximum switching current the breaking capacity Inrush current for the switched devices (we can't know) Typical values for an automatic circuit breaker in private houses are: from 25 to 100 A²s 230 V AC 16 A So this protection isn't good enough for our relay. The relay have these values: 230 V AC 2 A maximum switching current I²t value (melting integral): 4 A²s the allowed inrush current over a small time is higher than the melting integral. It is a bit confusing i think, but if we calculate the protection for the given melting integral and it's fine. So we can define the parameters for the client (switching site of this application here) The fuse have to be: I²s value higher or equal than the I²s value from the existing protection rating voltage over 230 V AC rating current 2 A or lower (because 2 A is the maximum at 25 °C, for 40 °C it is about 1.6 A) a maximum switching time of 1 second at 2 A or lower time with higher current but below 4A²s! To calculate use the switching time from the fuse datasheet an multiply it two times with the given current for this switching time. And i think a fast blow fuse would be the best. There are SMD fuses with 10.1 x 3 mm and 250 V AC available. If there is no fuse available with the values above, we could combine multiple fuses. A possible solution could be one bigger fuse for both relays and the ac/dc component. And a smaller fuse for the switching site of the relay and the HLK-PM01. But for this it is important that the circuit have only one input for the hot one (L) of 230 V and one output for each relay. In this case we could reduce the big connectors from 6 to 4. Like (L, N, Relay1, Relay2). And the temperature fuse can work for all components too So the protection for the primary site of the HLK-PM01 is a problem i think. Because the are no information available about the I²s value from HLK-PM01. I hope you can understand my English and could follow my explanation?
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@antonholmstedt a pro mini fits if you cut the corners, check out https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/6612/door-sensor-remix-of-some-mys-community-efforts
Need help with Code. Simple Nod with 4 button's and 2 Led output. Cant get he Led to work as I whant. They respond but both lights
My Project • mysensors • • Knightan

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@Knightan I believe that your problem may be related to this block of code. See my thoughts as comments.... if (message.type == V_STATUS) { //This is true for all messages received // Change relay state state_1 = message.getBool(); //This sets state for state_1 to the received value. digitalWrite(LED_PIN_Channel_1, state_1?RELAY_1_ON:RELAY_1_OFF); // Store state in eeprom saveState(CHILD_ID_5, state_1); // Write some debug info Serial.print("Incoming change for sensor: STATE 1"); Serial.print(message.sensor); Serial.print(", New status: "); Serial.println(message.getBool()); } if (message.type == V_STATUS) { // Change relay state state_2 = message.getBool(); //This sets state for state_2 to the received value. digitalWrite(LED_PIN_Channel_2, state_2?RELAY_2_ON:RELAY_2_OFF); // Store state in eeprom saveState(CHILD_ID_6, state_2); // Write some debug info Serial.print("Incoming change for sensor: STATE 2"); Serial.print(message.sensor); Serial.print(", New status: "); Serial.println(message.getBool()); } It seems to me that state_1 = message.getBool(); AND state_2 = message.getBool(). So they both get set to the incoming value. I think you need to not set both to the same value and instead differentiate them to unique values. I could be wrong as I have not had chance to do anything related to mysensors for a long time now - I also don't use Domoticz. Have a look at the code on this page, it might help you a lot.... https://www.mysensors.org/build/relay
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@JahFyahh - I still haven't managed to et round to it. I've been really busy since this project and its still hectic here. I'm sure i read a few reviews somewhere, here or google. Not sure.
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Added sketch, which also supports an additional mini PIR sensor. It's what I needed, you can comment to #define out. Also changed the regulator to a smaller one, which supplies up to 100 milli Amp, which is plenty enough. That way I can keep the circuit smaller on the PCB. Which allows me to create a smaller housing.

Mys Interposer NRF/Arduino Pro Mini

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Mys Interposer NRF/Arduino Pro Mini

Suggested Topics

Mysensors Uno shield OpenHardware.io • mysensors whareora • • openhardware.io

Orientation Actuator (pan/tilt) OpenHardware.io • mysensors orientation • • openhardware.io

Problem powering sensor from external battery (100000mah) Troubleshooting • ds18b20 battery powered nrf24l01+pa+lna 100000mah sr-501 • • nutcracker

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💬 Window Sensor with Sensebender (high WAF) OpenHardware.io • mysensors nrf24l01 door window waf • • openhardware.io

Need help with Code. Simple Nod with 4 button's and 2 Led output. Cant get he Led to work as I whant. They respond but both lights My Project • mysensors • • Knightan

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24Online

11.6kUsers

11.2kTopics

113.0kPosts

Mysensors Uno shield
OpenHardware.io • mysensors whareora • • openhardware.io

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OpenHardware.io • mysensors orientation • • openhardware.io

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