@NeverDie Thx for appreciating the work done. There will also be an open source part in the future. When and how extensive the open source part will be, remains to be seen. The release of certain information (block diagram, ..., in this post) is related to those open source parts. There are some OBD solutions, however most of them (in my experience) give back low frequency data put by the car manufacturer on the OBD-bus (CAN, ...). Therefore transients evolving directly from the battery could only be recorded if the manufacturer sends those data accordingly on the bus. Due to the small bandwidth(also because of other car data that have to be sent, ...), such battery data are sent more often once per second or less. Fast battery events (i.e. cranking events, ...) are therefore imperceptible. Unless the manufacturer processes the fast events and then sends them (once per second or less), which is very unlikely if the manufacturer does not market this feature itself. Third parties devices for high frequency sensing costs several hundreds dollars. In my experience, important battery states (especially the fast ones) are recorded by measuring and processing corresponding data directly on the battery. I agree with you about the limits related to the communication over Bluetooth. But i think Bluetooth 5.0 will improve a lot. However, WiFi will always remain an important option due to the high data throughput. The combination of both (BLE & WiFi), especially with regard to energy consumption, will gain in importance.

First batch of devices arrived. Looks fine. I hope I will manage to install it in garden to the end of the week.

@mjdula The 85 reading is actually an error message used by the ds18b20 to indicate it has not had time to complete the processing of the reading. Most commonly this is only seen when the node first boots up and can be ignored or fixed by adding a small delay. You will find a lot of information on this if you do a google search. I have never experienced it myself but from other posts on the net it seems power supply problems and long cable runs to the sensor can also cause the error. Some have also had success by using a different resistor value. Note you only need one resistor fitted near your nodemcu not a resistor at each ds18b20. If the 85 reading is well outside your expected reading you could just filter out any readings over 84 as well.

Hey! This looks like a great project! I'm considering building one for my hives. I notice that the legs need to be welded. That will be a chore for people that want to make this build themselves. Is this version designed to be built by anyone? Did you consider using open source or standardized hardware? Think of 2020 alu profiles or something, to allow reasonable buildability for users other than beep-base-shop. Also let me know if I misjudged, and that all components could be simply bought online. Stay awesome! ~ Bart

Advantage of this sensor is fast and easy installing by the non qualified personal. The sensor is designed for large agriculture facility with many greenhouses where is needed to be controlled temperature and humidity, the atmospheric pressure is for control the motor of air inlet and outlet. With help of the sensor installed outside the greenhouse provide information about positive/negative pressure inside the greenhouse. Finlay the software read accurate temp/humid value of the Si7021, and only atmospheric pressure of BMP180, the temperature sensor inside the BMP180 is used only by the sensor itself to provide accurate atmospheric pressure measurements. The sensor can be used also for home automation, and drone applications where is needed correction of the UAV barometric sensor compared to the ground barometric sensor, also humidity measurement can help the pilot to calculate more accurate flying time.

Sorry, 1 more question. At what timeframe do you expect diy packages to be for sale? I have checked with steel manufactures before for other projects, but having a small batch of steel tubes means that they will be enormously expensive and the same goes for the PCB's. The milling I can do easily at a maker space (fablab013). I am planning on a rather long, 1 storey hive, so I plan to cut the metal tubes in half and mount an extension in between.

My next issue is the humidity seems to be off. It has read as high as 115% humidity. Is this normal or should I be considering a correction? If so, how would I enter a correction. Its a little odd considering it states that the accuracy is much tighter than that.

@berkseo Thank you for your answer Good continuation on your nice project.

Please send me kicad files, the ones that can be downloaded, can't be opened in kicad 5, or upgrade here. Thank you

ESUN flex filament used.

@Nelson-Nico my reply was not properly formatted, I fixed it. Read again, then get a bit deeper with the links given by @scalz

You would use PID if you have a temperature feedback from the rooms, but in your case you are not interested so it doesn't matter much. Sure turning off pump when not needed is a good thing. I have colleague that also bought a few netatmo devices to control floor heating of some zones of his house and he is very happy.

Hello Tilman, this is really a very nice design. I have ordered a pack of PCBs from elecrow, based on your gerber files, and have a few questions: in your BOM you have listed 5 smd-capacitors and 7 smd resistors, but on the PCB i have solderpads for 6 capacitors and 8 resistors. Can you just explain? is there a uniflächentaster-model for 2 ways? i think i have to flash the bootloader first, do you have a tutorial for this, and a sample-sketch for the board? Thank you very much

@scalz May I request you to share your code for it please. Thanks

@bisschopsr said in BlackCircle Sensor - High "WAF" Temp/Hum. sensor: Hi All, Like the design thinking of this, although an older topic I did manage to get me one of these dishes. After taking it apart, I have one question that came to mind. Is the ventilation in the dish enough for the humity sensor? Is there any experience with that after running this sensor for a while? Thx Ralph Hello, yes I think it's enough, in fact there's much more ventilation than in many commercial sensors which only have a small hole. But it's a good test to make, I'll try to compare to a sensor out of it's enclosure to see if there's significant difference or delay.

Hello, I'm thinking about upgrading this board to include pinout for LIS3DH breakout board, like this one : https://www.aliexpress.com/item/LIS3DH-Three-Converters-Motion-Accelerometer-Triaxial-Acceleration-Temperature-Sensor-Module-Development-Board-Replace-ADXL345/32840326778.html and ditch the ADXL shield as it's not a good solution, it has either the ADXL345 which uses too much power, or the ADXL362 which is ultra low power but lacks advanced functionality like tap/double tap detection. I would like to have feedback of users on this (do it sound useful ?), and also know if anyone uses the SMD footprints on the board, for leds and for reserve capacitors, as it could be a cleaner board without those footprints. I would make the following changes : put footprint for LIS3DH accelerometer along the "NModule connector" as it has too many pins to put elsewhere keep only one I2C footprint on the side, for "GY-49" MAX44009 light sensor breakout board: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/GY-49-MAX44009-Ambient-Light-Sensor-Module-for-Arduino-with-4P-Pin-Header-Module/32828654450.html temperature/humidity would be via the existing "SMD" footprint, it's not through hole but very easy to solder as it's 2.54mm pad spacing remove SMD footprints for LED, add footprint for through hole reserve capacitor, keep SMD footprints for reserve capacitors only if I have space for them shield would be a bit extended to go over the 2 M2 holes in the "power" part of the NModule, so it could be fitted with spacers and nylon screws and have stable/reliable mechanical connection between NModule and Shield. Basically this would be the footprint of the shield : So in the end it would make one shield to have Temperature/Humidity/Light/Acceleration or Temperature/Humidity/Light/Door.

@zmatokan said in NModule: @Nca78 Are you still working on this pcbs? i think it would be great to add a version that supports HiLink 220ac->5dc module on powerboard. No I'm not working on NModules anymore, I have a few old nodes using atmega/nrf24 but I switched to NRF5 for "basic" nodes now, and to ESP32 for more "advanced" stuff. NModule was designed for beginner and simple/riskless use, so I don't think adding high voltage option is a great idea, it's better to use an external power supply and connect the output to the powerboard.

BTW, I like how you both made a case for it. Very nice!

@chbla said in Multiple uses battery RFM69 node: Can anyone suggest a source for the parts? Are there any sources that you can upload the files by any chance? If you mean can you upload a BOM to a company and then it generates a basket of the items, then i know that farnell and maybe digikey do this. But i only use this feature that is built into EAGLE pcb designer, so i'm not sure if they support it directly on their websites, might be worth a look. http://www.farnell.com/ http://www.digikey.co.uk

I am non technical but I have 8 wirsbo stats in my house. One of them is faulty and the unit is now obsolete. Is it possible to purchase one of these pcbs and use it to replace the one in the faulty stat ? Thanks Richard

Hope will test the new version of this universal board soon. Now it has additional inexpensive accelerometer, magnetic sensor, led, reset button, multifootprint for lora/hw/cw radio without adapter and improoved 4layers design

@tbowmo ha ha ha - at least you are still married

@gohan said in Arduino Pro Mini Shield for RFM69(H)W: If I remeber right that pin is used as input so the RFM69 is not receiving any 5v signal. In addition there are people claming they have the RFM69 module working on 5v on data pins and 3.3v on vcc, but I hardly suggest to do it. thank you just what i thought . about direct 5v on data...well... i seen a big red sign saying n :DONT do it! lol Level converters are so cheap...that i ordered 5 or 10 thoguether with rfm69 board. sorry about hijack this topic, i though i was on general discussion

The choice of MOSFET can be tricky. Seems that irlz44n was discontinued so you may need to find one adapted to the voltage and current you want to handle. In all the cases you need to get a logic MOSFET too, meaning that they are fully open usually around 1 to 3V. Also I'm sort of confused as it seems to me that L7812CV is a Voltage regulator, not a MOSFET. So if you are actually using that in the MOSFET spot it will definitively not work. Especially if you are handling high current or voltage I would recommend using one from a reputable source for your MOSFET, I recently switched from mouser / digikey / aliexpress to mostly use http://www.arrow.com as you get free regular shipping, event if you order a couple of components (no affiliation to them whatsoever).

@scalz Thanks for your answer. Assembling a sensor by my own is not really what I want (or am able to achieve). So buying assembled sensor is the only option for me. Thus probably commercially available sensors will fit better, since they can use the scaling factor of assembling a huge amount of sensors. My HA is driven by cost to performance ratio, where cost also include somewhat the amount of time to invest and performance also covers things like the ease of use, appearance etc. Interesting to hear though that those commercial sensors might be less premium regarding the part quality, battery life etc.

I hate to disappoint you @micah but @Mike-Musskopf has got a point: MQ* sensors are power hungry. You may want to connect everything up to 240V via a small PSU. There is a big thread on mysensors about air quality detection. DHT is not the best sensor for a battery application. Please check BME280 (pressure, temp and hum) or Si7021 (temp and hum) - these would be my favourite sensors for low power consumption. Small tip - your Arduino Pros must be 3.3V and not 5V for the battery usage.

@yoonie said: For the pro mini version, should i create another Openhardware project, or should i put it here, in the already existing project? Might be better to create a new project as they uses a different set of design files.

this kind of optic fiber is probably only plastic so for a full DIY , you can use also fishing wire with a big power led or an old chistmass tree optic fiber lighted.....

I ordered a batch from PCBs.io With the permission of the orginal author, I could enable sharing it there, which should reduce the price...

@Samuel235 I am looking at a CO sensor too, do you have any updates on the ones you are using? What is the exact model?

Hi, possible to share pcb files? THX MiKa

Hi! if it can help.. https://github.com/hallard/MAX31865-Breakout https://github.com/hallard/arduino-max31865

This should work with Domoticz, it's what I intend to use with it. I've received the boards from China and I'm currently working on a version 2 of this board. There are some errors in the design of version 1 that I need to get out. New version will be up shortly.

Nice! Will be interesting to hear about how long the CR2032 lasts.

@fets So far, I have only built the 5x5 board (but the others should be schematically identical). The only issue I have found so far is that I cannot get the ISP port to work. But I have checked and I have an identical setup on the 1.0 board and that worked, so I suspect the programmer is too weak to drive the net on this one. So it is not a board-issue per se, and might only be an issue on the 5x5 board as routing is the most complex on that one due to the size.

@tbowmo I am using Sensebender Micro on an ATMega328p Barebones with internal 8MHz and RFM69 working good. Since I don't have quartz connected on PB6 and PB7, I would like to use these ports. I tried from 14 to 21 but unable to flash my led (connected to PB6). With Minicore: PB6 and PB7 are 20 and 21 respectively. With Sensbender Micro, what are the ports? (if they exist)

Ok, finally I found the Problem. I changed the prescaler value of Timer0 becuase I needed a higher PWM Frequenciy. Unfortuneatly this also affects the millis() function that is used in gw.wait. It turns out taht with the changed TImer 0 Prescaler 1ms was not 1ms anymore but less. So the gw.wait(750) where only 750ms/64 which is not enough for DS18S20 conversion to take place.

I had the same problem... I just added the I_Arduino1.xml to the gateway as you suggested and it worked! Thanks. --Steve

I apologize for the questions and how simple they may be, as Im new to this community but very intrigued with the creativity and endless possibilities.

@destos Wow!

I built a trip wire for the post box that I'm connecting. It's however based on a mercury tilt sensor so I'm really not sure whether I think it's a great idea putting it to use (at least not with a sturdy case...). However, I can share my code: #define DIGITAL_INPUT_SENSOR 2 // The digital input you attached your motion sensor. (Only 2 and 3 generates interrupt!) #define INTERRUPT DIGITAL_INPUT_SENSOR-2 // Usually the interrupt = pin -2 (on uno/nano anyway) MyMessage msgTripped(CHILD_ID_TRIPPED, V_TRIPPED); void setup() { gw.sendSketchInfo("Postal", "1.0"); gw.present(CHILD_ID_TRIPPED, S_MOTION); pinMode(DIGITAL_INPUT_SENSOR, INPUT); // sets the motion sensor digital pin as input } void loop() { boolean tripped = digitalRead(DIGITAL_INPUT_SENSOR) == LOW; if(tripped) { gw.send(msgTripped.set("1")); // Send tripped value to gw } gw.sleep(INTERRUPT,FALLING, SLEEP_TIME); }

@BulldogLowell Yes, all is working, thanks. If you want to use this code for reference it is fully functional.

@Mouridsen Thanks for the follow up!

@dzairo there is a nice PinChangeInterrupt library that you may want to look at.

If you are not going to use mysensors look at library example https://github.com/mcleng/MAX6675-Library/blob/master/examples/read_temp/read_temp.pde Error: MAX6875Temp.ino: In function 'void loop()': MAX6875Temp:24: error: 'class MAX6675' has no member named 'read_temp' temperature = temp.read_temp();

@BulldogLowell thank you, I uploaded it and so far it works fine.

Well I changed the connection type for the sensors due to the above issue. Tested and again after 2.5 days, it locked out on a sensor com error. So after some thought, I realized, (not sure why I didn't before) the system is not going to be 100% bullet proof, so instead of moving to a hard fault, I recoded the error handling section of the sketch to attempt to handle the occasional hiccups in reading the sensors. Pushed new sketch to Github and am testing now. It will interesting to see just how many times the readings fail. I shall see.....

ok - thanks guys

I have added a device editor to the server. It uses the sensor types as a group and the sensor variable as the control. Group (sensor): Control (sensor variable): This will be my last post here because my controller has got it's own controller page

@tannewt said: Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 3.3V/8MHz $9.95 ~3.5$ on ebay RHT03 Temp/Humidity $8.96 ~4.3$ on ebay