Advantage of this sensor is fast and easy installing by the non qualified personal. The sensor is designed for large agriculture facility with many greenhouses where is needed to be controlled temperature and humidity, the atmospheric pressure is for control the motor of air inlet and outlet. With help of the sensor installed outside the greenhouse provide information about positive/negative pressure inside the greenhouse. Finlay the software read accurate temp/humid value of the Si7021, and only atmospheric pressure of BMP180, the temperature sensor inside the BMP180 is used only by the sensor itself to provide accurate atmospheric pressure measurements. The sensor can be used also for home automation, and drone applications where is needed correction of the UAV barometric sensor compared to the ground barometric sensor, also humidity measurement can help the pilot to calculate more accurate flying time.

Sorry, 1 more question. At what timeframe do you expect diy packages to be for sale? I have checked with steel manufactures before for other projects, but having a small batch of steel tubes means that they will be enormously expensive and the same goes for the PCB's. The milling I can do easily at a maker space (fablab013). I am planning on a rather long, 1 storey hive, so I plan to cut the metal tubes in half and mount an extension in between.

@soloam no it should not affect the readings too much if you make holes near the sensor and you have a bit of space in front of it so that the air can flow. For light sensor check BH1750 or MAX44009

ESUN flex filament used.

@Nelson-Nico my reply was not properly formatted, I fixed it. Read again, then get a bit deeper with the links given by @scalz

You would use PID if you have a temperature feedback from the rooms, but in your case you are not interested so it doesn't matter much. Sure turning off pump when not needed is a good thing. I have colleague that also bought a few netatmo devices to control floor heating of some zones of his house and he is very happy.

Hello Tilman, this is really a very nice design. I have ordered a pack of PCBs from elecrow, based on your gerber files, and have a few questions: in your BOM you have listed 5 smd-capacitors and 7 smd resistors, but on the PCB i have solderpads for 6 capacitors and 8 resistors. Can you just explain? is there a uniflächentaster-model for 2 ways? i think i have to flash the bootloader first, do you have a tutorial for this, and a sample-sketch for the board? Thank you very much

Hi guys! Also interested. Please let me know if I can help. Or as soon as you have some first run I'm willing to buy some. Thanks

@bisschopsr said in BlackCircle Sensor - High "WAF" Temp/Hum. sensor: Hi All, Like the design thinking of this, although an older topic I did manage to get me one of these dishes. After taking it apart, I have one question that came to mind. Is the ventilation in the dish enough for the humity sensor? Is there any experience with that after running this sensor for a while? Thx Ralph Hello, yes I think it's enough, in fact there's much more ventilation than in many commercial sensors which only have a small hole. But it's a good test to make, I'll try to compare to a sensor out of it's enclosure to see if there's significant difference or delay.

Hello, I'm thinking about upgrading this board to include pinout for LIS3DH breakout board, like this one : https://www.aliexpress.com/item/LIS3DH-Three-Converters-Motion-Accelerometer-Triaxial-Acceleration-Temperature-Sensor-Module-Development-Board-Replace-ADXL345/32840326778.html and ditch the ADXL shield as it's not a good solution, it has either the ADXL345 which uses too much power, or the ADXL362 which is ultra low power but lacks advanced functionality like tap/double tap detection. I would like to have feedback of users on this (do it sound useful ?), and also know if anyone uses the SMD footprints on the board, for leds and for reserve capacitors, as it could be a cleaner board without those footprints. I would make the following changes : put footprint for LIS3DH accelerometer along the "NModule connector" as it has too many pins to put elsewhere keep only one I2C footprint on the side, for "GY-49" MAX44009 light sensor breakout board: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/GY-49-MAX44009-Ambient-Light-Sensor-Module-for-Arduino-with-4P-Pin-Header-Module/32828654450.html temperature/humidity would be via the existing "SMD" footprint, it's not through hole but very easy to solder as it's 2.54mm pad spacing remove SMD footprints for LED, add footprint for through hole reserve capacitor, keep SMD footprints for reserve capacitors only if I have space for them shield would be a bit extended to go over the 2 M2 holes in the "power" part of the NModule, so it could be fitted with spacers and nylon screws and have stable/reliable mechanical connection between NModule and Shield. Basically this would be the footprint of the shield : So in the end it would make one shield to have Temperature/Humidity/Light/Acceleration or Temperature/Humidity/Light/Door.

@ghiglie no use to be sorry, we were all beginners at some point in time

BTW, I like how you both made a case for it. Very nice!

@chbla said in Multiple uses battery RFM69 node: Can anyone suggest a source for the parts? Are there any sources that you can upload the files by any chance? If you mean can you upload a BOM to a company and then it generates a basket of the items, then i know that farnell and maybe digikey do this. But i only use this feature that is built into EAGLE pcb designer, so i'm not sure if they support it directly on their websites, might be worth a look. http://www.farnell.com/ http://www.digikey.co.uk

@hepal Hi The thermostats use mysensors serial gateway to communicate with the openhab that runs on a raspberry Pi 2. I run openhab 2.0 but in the beginning i was running 1.7.x

@koresh Package went under the "Postnord" radar! Woohoo, perfect! I will start replacing the old capacitors and finally be able to deploy the sensors. Very nice of you to include some product samples as well. Really excited about these sensors!

@tbowmo ha ha ha - at least you are still married

@gohan said in Arduino Pro Mini Shield for RFM69(H)W: If I remeber right that pin is used as input so the RFM69 is not receiving any 5v signal. In addition there are people claming they have the RFM69 module working on 5v on data pins and 3.3v on vcc, but I hardly suggest to do it. thank you just what i thought . about direct 5v on data...well... i seen a big red sign saying n :DONT do it! lol Level converters are so cheap...that i ordered 5 or 10 thoguether with rfm69 board. sorry about hijack this topic, i though i was on general discussion

The choice of MOSFET can be tricky. Seems that irlz44n was discontinued so you may need to find one adapted to the voltage and current you want to handle. In all the cases you need to get a logic MOSFET too, meaning that they are fully open usually around 1 to 3V. Also I'm sort of confused as it seems to me that L7812CV is a Voltage regulator, not a MOSFET. So if you are actually using that in the MOSFET spot it will definitively not work. Especially if you are handling high current or voltage I would recommend using one from a reputable source for your MOSFET, I recently switched from mouser / digikey / aliexpress to mostly use http://www.arrow.com as you get free regular shipping, event if you order a couple of components (no affiliation to them whatsoever).

@scalz Voalá! 5.2uA consumption with flash in Ultra Deep Power-Down! Will have to test OTA functionality though (waking up from Ultra Deep Power-Down), but in my experience this is going to be very hard on a coin battery.

I hate to disappoint you @micah but @Mike-Musskopf has got a point: MQ* sensors are power hungry. You may want to connect everything up to 240V via a small PSU. There is a big thread on mysensors about air quality detection. DHT is not the best sensor for a battery application. Please check BME280 (pressure, temp and hum) or Si7021 (temp and hum) - these would be my favourite sensors for low power consumption. Small tip - your Arduino Pros must be 3.3V and not 5V for the battery usage.

@yoonie said: For the pro mini version, should i create another Openhardware project, or should i put it here, in the already existing project? Might be better to create a new project as they uses a different set of design files.

this kind of optic fiber is probably only plastic so for a full DIY , you can use also fishing wire with a big power led or an old chistmass tree optic fiber lighted.....

I ordered a batch from PCBs.io With the permission of the orginal author, I could enable sharing it there, which should reduce the price...

@Samuel235 I am looking at a CO sensor too, do you have any updates on the ones you are using? What is the exact model?

Hi, possible to share pcb files? THX MiKa

Hi! if it can help.. https://github.com/hallard/MAX31865-Breakout https://github.com/hallard/arduino-max31865

This should work with Domoticz, it's what I intend to use with it. I've received the boards from China and I'm currently working on a version 2 of this board. There are some errors in the design of version 1 that I need to get out. New version will be up shortly.

Nice! Will be interesting to hear about how long the CR2032 lasts.

@fets So far, I have only built the 5x5 board (but the others should be schematically identical). The only issue I have found so far is that I cannot get the ISP port to work. But I have checked and I have an identical setup on the 1.0 board and that worked, so I suspect the programmer is too weak to drive the net on this one. So it is not a board-issue per se, and might only be an issue on the 5x5 board as routing is the most complex on that one due to the size.

@djbonet you’re welcome. If I remember correctly, the datasheet diagram shows the limit for 8MHz to be 2.4V

Ok, finally I found the Problem. I changed the prescaler value of Timer0 becuase I needed a higher PWM Frequenciy. Unfortuneatly this also affects the millis() function that is used in gw.wait. It turns out taht with the changed TImer 0 Prescaler 1ms was not 1ms anymore but less. So the gw.wait(750) where only 750ms/64 which is not enough for DS18S20 conversion to take place.

I had the same problem... I just added the I_Arduino1.xml to the gateway as you suggested and it worked! Thanks. --Steve

I apologize for the questions and how simple they may be, as Im new to this community but very intrigued with the creativity and endless possibilities.

@destos Wow!

I built a trip wire for the post box that I'm connecting. It's however based on a mercury tilt sensor so I'm really not sure whether I think it's a great idea putting it to use (at least not with a sturdy case...). However, I can share my code: #define DIGITAL_INPUT_SENSOR 2 // The digital input you attached your motion sensor. (Only 2 and 3 generates interrupt!) #define INTERRUPT DIGITAL_INPUT_SENSOR-2 // Usually the interrupt = pin -2 (on uno/nano anyway) MyMessage msgTripped(CHILD_ID_TRIPPED, V_TRIPPED); void setup() { gw.sendSketchInfo("Postal", "1.0"); gw.present(CHILD_ID_TRIPPED, S_MOTION); pinMode(DIGITAL_INPUT_SENSOR, INPUT); // sets the motion sensor digital pin as input } void loop() { boolean tripped = digitalRead(DIGITAL_INPUT_SENSOR) == LOW; if(tripped) { gw.send(msgTripped.set("1")); // Send tripped value to gw } gw.sleep(INTERRUPT,FALLING, SLEEP_TIME); }

@BulldogLowell Yes, all is working, thanks. If you want to use this code for reference it is fully functional.

@Mouridsen Thanks for the follow up!

@dzairo there is a nice PinChangeInterrupt library that you may want to look at.

If you are not going to use mysensors look at library example https://github.com/mcleng/MAX6675-Library/blob/master/examples/read_temp/read_temp.pde Error: MAX6875Temp.ino: In function 'void loop()': MAX6875Temp:24: error: 'class MAX6675' has no member named 'read_temp' temperature = temp.read_temp();

@BulldogLowell thank you, I uploaded it and so far it works fine.

Well I changed the connection type for the sensors due to the above issue. Tested and again after 2.5 days, it locked out on a sensor com error. So after some thought, I realized, (not sure why I didn't before) the system is not going to be 100% bullet proof, so instead of moving to a hard fault, I recoded the error handling section of the sketch to attempt to handle the occasional hiccups in reading the sensors. Pushed new sketch to Github and am testing now. It will interesting to see just how many times the readings fail. I shall see.....

ok - thanks guys

I have added a device editor to the server. It uses the sensor types as a group and the sensor variable as the control. Group (sensor): Control (sensor variable): This will be my last post here because my controller has got it's own controller page

@tannewt said: Arduino Pro Mini 328 - 3.3V/8MHz $9.95 ~3.5$ on ebay RHT03 Temp/Humidity $8.96 ~4.3$ on ebay