💬 AC-DC double solid state relay module
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Hello,
Nca78 has already answered :
@Nca78 said:
@tonnerre33 said:
Hi,
can we install this module in a wall ?
Can we command shutters ?For the wall, that's the idea of keeping the 50*50mm size
For the shutters technically yes, but there are (at least) 2 problems :- if you have the 2 relays on at the same time = 2 directions you will probably kill the motor, there is no hardware protection on this board to avoid that (one of the relays must have power only when the other one is in off state). This can be done in software so it's not blocking.
- if you want to be able to control the level/percentage of closing, you need to measure time from min to max position, to do that you need to measure current (when motor stop consuming current it means shutter has reached it's 0% or 100% position). But there is no current sensor on this board, so you either need to implement a manual calibration process (that will lose precision over time) or use only manual control.
I am planning to test it when I have some time, and when I receive the PCB.
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Looking to do something similar, Thanks for the contribution.
However, I'd be very concerned about using an SSR (solid state relay) vs a mechanical relay. Even in the "OFF" position there is typically a small potential/current leakage through an SSR. When using SSR nearly all applications use a secondary mechanical disconnect to truely isolate the load, for service etc. Thoughts?
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@Y_sam said:
... to truely isolate the load, for service etc. Thoughts?For that, disconnect the fuse in your fuse box, it's the only safe way.
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@Y_sam,
Nca78 highlighetd two problems:- The absence of mecanical interlock between the "up" and "down" relays, (you can use a soft interlock to prevent them from beign activated at the same time)
- The absence of a current sensor to know whether or not the shutter is fully open or fully closed : I am trying to add an ACS712, but in my case, i will know if its fully open/close if the current becomes relatively high, because the my roller shutter doesnt have limit switches and keeps running ...
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@JonnyDev13 said:
@mr_const said:
ybe that aliexpress listing has changed). Project uses same relay, but 5V version
Uggh, I just received 20 of the 12v ones yesterday that I purchased from the BOM link. Is it safe to say that these will absolutely not work, or is there some way to adapt them with a step-up converter or something?
You cannot adapt them with a step-up converter, there's no space on the PCB for that. But you should test them with 5V, if you are lucky they might work. I'm using 5V relays with 3.3V without any problem. The "must switch off" value in datasheet (for the original, remember what you bought is a clone...) is 0.9V which should be ok (real switch off value will probably be closer to this than to 5V) but the "must switch on" value is 8.4V which is quite far away from the 5V. The only way you will know if it will reliably switch one with 5V is to give it a try.
@okos said:
Hello.
I tried to upload my two boards ( arduino pro mini 8Mhz , 3,3 V ) modified sketches but returned to sketch Nca78 (with DS18B20), unfortunately, does not operate a physical switch. Sometimes phisical switch changes state in domoticz ( not every time ) but relays do not change state.
Switching on and switching off the lights of domoticz changes state relay without a problem.
What could be wrong ?Sorry I'm a bit short on free time at the moment, didn't have time to take a look at the sketch yet.
What you are saying is sometimes you change the physical switch position, it changes the status in domoticz, but the light status is not matching the status of the physical switch and the value of the switch in Domoticz ?For example: light is off and domoticz says off. Then you push the switch and domoticz says the light is on. But in fact the light is still off ?
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@tonnerre33, je suis également en France et je n'ai pas de neutre dans mes interrupteurs. Peux tu me dire comment tu as pu tester le pcb stp. Mon anglais est loin d être top desolé !!
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@Nca78 Thanks for your thoughts. I will try testing it with 5v and see what happens.
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@laster13 hi, i have tried this pcb with my bedroom lamp. Indeed, these lamps are powered by electrical socket which include neutral wire.
For the others lamps, i need to find how to command them without neutral wire
I am looking at this project but this is an smd project :https://www.openhardware.io/view/249/MDMSNode-Lighting
@laster13 salut, en fait mes lampes de chambres sont sur prises commandées (donc accès au neutre), du coup j'utilise ce module pour ces lampes mais pour les autres bin il va falloir que je trouve autre chose
Je regarde un peu du coté de ce projet mais c'est du cms : voir le lien au dessus
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English please...
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I Will tried to speak english
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Thanks tonnerre33 for your help. Could you give me à shema of your installation in the bedroom ?
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Here is a schema of my installation without the node :
http://electric.system.free.fr/schemas/schemas/schema-prise-commandee.jpgand one with the pcb :
http://www.photorapide.com/images.php?photoName=2whnu7.png&photoId=935027
Edit : and the node with connectors :
http://www.photorapide.com/images.php?photoName=074tl3.jpg&photoId=935034
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thanks, I'll try. You say that your lamps are powered by electrical socket .
Is mounting possible on simple sockets with neutral wire? (non commandées)?
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Sure you can use an electrical socket without switch control.
But caution, max current is 2A ! It is ok for lamps but you can't supply a receiver which consumes more than 460VA per relay ( = 460W for resistive receiver).
I didn't see protection for relays, be careful
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I am trying to test a montage which I am not sure about and besides when I plug the pcb on the socket the lamp remains on. I invite you to read my post on the Domoticz forum.
http://easydomoticz.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=2680&p=25219#p25219I am sorry for my english, I use the traducer of google
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Hi All,
This is my first post on this site!!
Yes this is a really good project but for the UK controlling a light inside of a wall switch you would need to do the following.
Re-wire the ceiling rose as in the UK there is a live feed from the rose that is switched by the switch and then returns to the rose to the "switched live" See http://www.diydoctor.org.uk/project_images/lights_and_switches/ceilingroseb2.jpg
Put an extra cable up to the ceiling rose with the return cable from the board that goes to the switched live and add an extra terminal in the ceiling rose to link the neutral to the other side of the lamp fitting.
If the back box is metal, it would need to be changed to a plastic box , I wouldn't myself want to mount the board in an earthed metal box!!
As other contributors have noted there isn't any fusing on the live and neutral feeds if the SSR were to fail short because of a short circuit in the lamp or ceiling rose then there could be a large current going through board that could potentially cause a fire, safety is always the first thought with any mains electrical circuit.
I could see this board being used in a plastic box inline to a table lamp etc. but it would need a lot of work to re-wire your house if you intended to use it behind a wall switch.
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@laster13 Yes your schema is correct.
The sketch has been modified by Nca78, you can try it first.
The problem does not come from the unused switch, because i use this node without switch.
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I'm going to do these for my light switches but what should I use for in wall on off switch without relay?
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The link to to DirtyPCBs is broken, got a new one?
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@Hilltan Hello, i think this link will be ok : http://dirtypcbs.com/store/details/885/mysensors-v3-3-2-light-switch
For information, a few members have too many PCB of this node that's why if you are living in Vietnam or asia, Nca78 can send you PCB and if you are in france, i can send too (contact by pm for terms).
I use this node since 20 days ago, and it's working well
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Hi everyone.
I can not find anywhere Slow Blow Fuse (250v 0.2A). Does anyone has an available link??
Thanks in advance.
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Never mind, got them. thank you!!!
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@tonnerre33
I will be really interested to buy you all the components you would no longer need. NRF, pcb, fuse thermal ... If you agree, can you tell me a list of what you offer thanks
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If anyone in the UK is after boards/parts i have spares.
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hello, anyone use this project with home assistant?
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Thanks for this. One question about the SSR. Does it matter if its a zero crossing relay or not if just switching lamps with fixed amps? That the difference between the G3MB-202P and G3MB-202PL. I'm not sure which to get.
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@Paul-Derbyshire if you're buying on aliexpress at less than 3$ a relay, you're buying chinese clones like most of us here. I doubt they bothered implementing the zero-crossing function on the chinese clones...
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Hi,
I love this project. This is almost exactly what I wanted to do by myself (but I have no knowledge in PCB design). As this project shouldn't require much power, have you ever though about using a dropping capacitor PSU (http://www.circuitsgallery.com/2012/07/transformer-less-ac-to-dc-capacitor-power-supply-circuit2.html) instead of the HLK-PM01 ?
If this is a working solution, it would make your project even cheaper.An other question on the DS18B20. Wont the proximity with the relays (heat generators) will disturb the temperature reading ?
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Hello !
Transformerless design means there is not isolation between main voltage and low voltage parts. You can get electrocuted with 110/220V when touching the low voltage side. It means it can be used only in the case of a sealed box.For the temperature sensor the main source of heat is the hlk that heats up a lot. It's purpose is not to sense the temperature in the room, but to monitor the temperature inside the sensor and make sure there is not problem with the hlk overheating.
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@Nca78 Thanks for the advice.
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Would it be possible tot change the relays to one (or two) triacs, keeping it's current features and also allowing it to dim lights?
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anyone found the Slow Blow Fuse (250v 0.2A) on aliexpress? if yes please link.
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found 250V 0.25A o aliexpress - i believe this will be good enough - http://tiny.cc/h4fpiy
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@Sacha-Telgenhof : It also took me bit of time. It is the PINs on the board 7 GND 4 for two switches 7 and 4 are the digital inputs on arduino.
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hey @Aproxx, nice project, do you think a current sensor could be added to the PCB to monitor electrical consumption. the idea of adding triact to the circuit by @overlordt seems to work theoretically.
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My parts are on the way and I"m looking forward to trying this one out. Thanks for sharing this project!!
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If you create a new version, could you connect the other 2 5V and GND holes next to D6 so these can easily be used as power output?
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I can't understand (scrub here) how to wire the regular light switch to the board.
Supposing I want to use only one relay, I have to wire the switch to the 7 PIN and GND right?
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@Marco-Lo-Grasso said in
AC-DC double solid state relay module:Yes you have to do this, but i don't know if the sketch is working fine with the light switch
I haven't tested this feature yet.Caution, the light switch don't be connected to the 230V !
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Any suggestions for front panels on the light switches? I've connected mine to normal switches to control the relays, but I'd really like a 4-8 soft button front panel that I could also wire into GPIO's on an ESP for "scene" control outside of the local relays. Auy suggestions or experience would be great
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Hello, I'm not sure exactly of what you want to to, but you could use software i2c on those two pins and connect and i2c keypad. You can search mpr121 keypad on google or aliexpress.
But be careful you should add an isolating cover on top of it if you connect to this board as the crepage/cleatance between main voltage and 5V/3.3V is not sufficient in some part of the board and it could end up with low voltage circuit at main voltage...
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good to know clearence isn't there ... something i could correct though
An i2c and capacity touch could work great.. but i can't find any cleanly designed front panel that I could use in place of my light switches.
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So if I understanded right the device needs also neutral to work? That's a problem because here in Finland we only circulate the phase through light switches. Neutral goes straight to the lamps.
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@Misna said in
AC-DC double solid state relay module:So if I understanded right the device needs also neutral to work? That's a problem because here in Finland we only circulate the phase through light switches. Neutral goes straight to the lamps.
Yes it does. Same problem for most people, even here in Vietnam it's the same.
Solution is to put it in ceiling connected directly to the lights, and use radio switch to control it.
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Hi,
first of all you had an great idea to user a small layout with this functions.
The protection at the AC site is very good I think.Today I get ten boards with your current gerber files (v3.3.2).
But I think it does not work as expected:- Using a 5 V Arduino and the NRF without a level switcher with 3.3 V it will be break in the future.
- The big relay routes have no protection (I don't know if solder resist is the correct word).
- Maybe as pulldown resistor to the relay input could be useful.
- The three GND and Vcc Pins are not connected to each other.
- Maybe it could usefull to use fuse sockets for the not resetable fuse.
For the voltage problem we could use an 3.3 V Arduino mini pro with 8 MHz crystal.
In this case we don't need the LDO and could use LDO from the Arduino board.
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Sorry I forgot something.
For a 3.3 V Arduino we need a MOSFET or so to drive the SSR.
But there are cheep and small SMD packages available.
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@hugch no you don't need MOSFET for those SSR, the high level of input is below 3.3V. I've made a board with those and a 3.3V Arduino and didn't have any problem.
For this board it's missing fuses on the SSRs, if they fail and shortcut nothing will stop the short circuit at the moment.
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@Nca78 My SSRs are with 5 V level but one with 3.3 V level would be better. You are right.
And the fuses are important but i think the step down have an over current protection, but a PTC could useful.
But a MOSFET or equal is also required:
It is not a good idea to drive current intensive peripheral directly with an micro controller.
The absolute maximum ratings for an ATmega328p is 40 mA. And a SSR is using 25 mA or so.
The better choice is using a driver or a simple transistor circuit.To drive the SSR directly would not damage the controller at this moment, but your are decrease the lifetime.
And the lifetime for an in wall module or so is very important.
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Hello!!, my name is Alejandro, I'm from Spain and I have been working on something quite similar to this project. I would like to contribute to reach a final design. What I have done until now is a prototype board similar than yours and I would like to add a top board with touch buttons to fit into Livolo glass panel switch.
https://es.aliexpress.com/store/product/Free-Shipping-Livolo-Luxury-White-Pearl-Crystal-Glass-151mm-80mm-EU-standard-Double-Glass-Panel-VL/500715_1684198410.html?spm=2114.12010608.0.0.6cyWwJAnd try to do something like this also including ws2812 rgb led for touchpad and a small speaker just to sound someting when touch the button.
https://z-uno.z-wave.me/projects/sensor-wall-switch-based-on-livolo-glass/
My development is based on ESP8266 without rf communication but as I have progressed I have checked that Wifi connection is a complex system compared to rf so I am thinking to change to arduino or esp + nrf.
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Hi everyone . I managed to create my first module and it seems to working but why at my domoticz only one switch appears as new device???
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I solved my last problem, but now i see that although both of the switches in Domoticz show off, i have power on the second one. What could be the problem? Faulty ssr?
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What's happening if you switch it on then off in domoticz ?
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Either pressing on or off in domoticz, i have always power on the second outpout.
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@johnym30 Can you post your sketch?
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This is my sketch
// MySensor Debug #define MY_DEBUG // Enables repeater functionality (relays messages from other nodes) #define MY_REPEATER_FEATURE // Comment line below if you don't want to use the temperature sensor #define MY_RADIO_NRF24 #define MY_TRANSPORT_WAIT_READY_MS #define MY_PARENT_NODE_ID 2 #define MY_RADIO_NRF24 #include <MySensors.h> #include <SPI.h> #include <Bounce2.h> #define RELAY_PIN_1 3 // Arduino Digital I/O pin number for relay #define RELAY_PIN_2 5 #define BUTTON_PIN_1 4 // Arduino Digital I/O pin number for button #define BUTTON_PIN_2 7 #define CHILD_ID_1 8 // Id of the sensor child for 1st relay #define CHILD_ID_2 9 // Id of the sensor child for 2nd relay // Relay status #define RELAY_ON 1 #define RELAY_OFF 0 // Source of state change (used when printing debug information) #define CHANGE_STATE_SOURCE_RADIO 0 #define CHANGE_STATE_SOURCE_SWITCH 1 Bounce debouncer1 = Bounce(); int oldValue; bool state1; Bounce debouncer2 = Bounce(); int oldValue2; bool state2; MyMessage msg(CHILD_ID_1, V_LIGHT); MyMessage msg2(CHILD_ID_2, V_LIGHT); void presentation() { // Send the sketch version information to the gateway and Controller sendSketchInfo("Double Relay & Button", "0.2"); // Register all sensors to gw (they will be created as child devices) present(CHILD_ID_1, S_LIGHT); present(CHILD_ID_2, S_LIGHT); } void setup() { // Setup the button pinMode(BUTTON_PIN_1, INPUT); // Activate internal pull-up digitalWrite(BUTTON_PIN_1, HIGH); // Setup the button pinMode(BUTTON_PIN_2, INPUT); // Activate internal pull-up digitalWrite(BUTTON_PIN_2, HIGH); // After setting up the button, setup debouncer debouncer1.attach(BUTTON_PIN_1); debouncer1.interval(5); debouncer2.attach(BUTTON_PIN_2); debouncer2.interval(5); // Set the initial values of oldValue/oldValue2 variables from status of physical switches // if this is not done the loop() will detect status change and switch the relays on or off debouncer1.update(); debouncer2.update(); oldValue = debouncer1.read(); oldValue2 = debouncer2.read(); // Make sure relays are off when starting up setRelayState(RELAY_PIN_1, RELAY_OFF); // Then set relay pins in output mode pinMode(RELAY_PIN_1, OUTPUT); digitalWrite(RELAY_PIN_2, RELAY_OFF); // Then set relay pins in output mode pinMode(RELAY_PIN_2, OUTPUT); // Set relay to last known state (using eeprom storage) state1 = loadState(CHILD_ID_1); setRelayState(RELAY_PIN_1, state1); state2 = loadState(CHILD_ID_2); setRelayState(RELAY_PIN_2, state2); } /* Example on how to asynchronously check for new messages from gw */ void loop() { debouncer1.update(); debouncer2.update(); // Get the update value int value1 = debouncer1.read(); int value2 = debouncer2.read(); if (value1 != oldValue) { send(msg.set(state1 ? false : true), true); // Send new state and request ack back // Write some debug info printStateChangedDebug(CHANGE_STATE_SOURCE_SWITCH, CHILD_ID_1, value1); } oldValue = value1; if (value2 != oldValue2) { send(msg2.set(state2 ? false : true), true); // Send new state and request ack back // Write some debug info printStateChangedDebug(CHANGE_STATE_SOURCE_SWITCH, CHILD_ID_2, value2); } oldValue2 = value2; } void receive(const MyMessage &message) { // We only expect one type of message from controller. But we better check anyway. if (message.isAck()) { #ifdef MY_DEBUG Serial.println(F("This is an ack from gateway")); #endif } else if (message.type == V_LIGHT && message.sensor == CHILD_ID_1) { // Change relay state state1 = message.getBool(); setRelayState(RELAY_PIN_1, state1); // Store state in eeprom saveState(CHILD_ID_1, state1); // Write some debug info printStateChangedDebug(CHANGE_STATE_SOURCE_RADIO, CHILD_ID_1, state1); } else if (message.type == V_LIGHT && message.sensor == CHILD_ID_2) { state2 = message.getBool(); setRelayState(RELAY_PIN_2, state2); // Store state in eeprom saveState(CHILD_ID_2, state2); // Write some debug info printStateChangedDebug(CHANGE_STATE_SOURCE_RADIO, CHILD_ID_2, state2); } } // Set status of a relay pin void setRelayState(byte relayPin, bool value) { digitalWrite(relayPin, value ? RELAY_ON : RELAY_OFF); } // Print debug info, centralized in one place to minimize memory usage and have only one #ifdef MY_DEBUG for all state change messages void printStateChangedDebug(int source, int sensorID, bool value) { #ifdef MY_DEBUG Serial.print(F("Sensor value changed, source=")); Serial.print(source == CHANGE_STATE_SOURCE_RADIO ? F("Radio") : F("Physical switch")); Serial.print(F(", Sensor=")); Serial.print(sensorID); Serial.print(F(", New status: ")); Serial.println(value); #endif }
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@johnym30 Can't see anything wrong with the sketch that causes the 2 outputs toggle at the same time. However, I have 2 remarks:
- Don't you need to set the pins to output before you set them low?
- You are not updating your gateway when you toggle the output with the switch.
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@stray the think is that the first relay is working normal and i see the updates in domoticz when i turn it on or off.It is just the second relay that gives me power either it is on or off in domoticz.That is why i am thinking maybe the second relay is broken
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hmm im having a hard time fitting these modules behind my lamp buttoms couse its swedish standar 70mm holes and the nrfmodule sticks out to much anyone know a good mod?
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Hi everyone.Its me again!!!!
Everything seems to be working just fine when i am using domoticz interface, but when i am using the hardware switches the icons in domoticz update from off to on but my lights wont turn on. If i turn my hardware switch to off, the state in domoticz stays to on.What am i doing wrong????
My sketch below ./** * The MySensors Arduino library handles the wireless radio link and protocol * between your home built sensors/actuators and HA controller of choice. * The sensors forms a self healing radio network with optional repeaters. Each * repeater and gateway builds a routing tables in EEPROM which keeps track of the * network topology allowing messages to be routed to nodes. * * Created by Henrik Ekblad <henrik.ekblad@mysensors.org> * Copyright (C) 2013-2015 Sensnology AB * Full contributor list: https://github.com/mysensors/Arduino/graphs/contributors * * Documentation: http://www.mysensors.org * Support Forum: http://forum.mysensors.org * * This program is free software; you can redistribute it and/or * modify it under the terms of the GNU General Public License * version 2 as published by the Free Software Foundation. * ******************************* * * DESCRIPTION * * Script for double SSR relay board by Aproxx * https://www.openhardware.io/view/77/AC-DC-double-solid-state-relay-module * https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/3671/ac-dc-double-solid-state-relay-module * Control 2 circuits either from controller or from physical buttons connected on pins 4 & 7 * Optional DS18b20 is connected on pin 8 * * HISTORY : * xx/xx/2016 original version by Aproxx * 08/02/2016 upgraded to MySensors 2.0 by mr_const * 08/30/2016 changes by Nca78 : * - fixed initialization of physical buttons/debouncer status * - centralized pin status change for relays in setRelayState method * - centralized debug information for state changes in one method + added debug info when changed by physical switches * - added #ifdef MY_DEBUG before each Serial.print (saves prog memory when not in debug mode) and F() macros for debug strings (saves RAM when in debug mode) * - added #define USE_TEMP_SENSOR to make temperature sensor optional (not used if line is commented) * - put back #define for repeater feature * - add #define TEMPERATURE_ROUNDING for custom temperature rounding **/ // MySensor Debug //#define MY_DEBUG // Enables repeater functionality (relays messages from other nodes) //#define MY_REPEATER_FEATURE // Comment line below if you don't want to use the temperature sensor #define USE_TEMP_SENSOR #define MY_RADIO_NRF24 #include <MySensors.h> #include <SPI.h> #include <Bounce2.h> #define RELAY_PIN 3 // Arduino Digital I/O pin number for relay #define RELAY_PIN_2 5 #define BUTTON_PIN 4 // Arduino Digital I/O pin number for button #define BUTTON_PIN_2 7 #define CHILD_ID 8 // Id of the sensor child for 1st relay #define CHILD_ID_2 9 // Id of the sensor child for 2nd relay // Relay status #define RELAY_ON 1 #define RELAY_OFF 0 // Source of state change (used when printing debug information) #define CHANGE_STATE_SOURCE_RADIO 0 #define CHANGE_STATE_SOURCE_SWITCH 1 // Temperature sensor definitions #ifdef USE_TEMP_SENSOR #include <OneWire.h> #include <DallasTemperature.h> #define ONE_WIRE_BUS 8 #define CHILD_DSB_ID 13 // Id of the sensor child for temperature sensor #define TEMPERATURE_ROUNDING 10.f // Change value to change rounding of temperature value: 10.f for 0.1°C change, 5.f for 0.2°C change, 2.f for 0.5°C change #endif Bounce debouncer = Bounce(); int oldValue; bool state; Bounce debouncer2 = Bounce(); int oldValue2; bool state2; MyMessage msg(CHILD_ID, V_LIGHT); MyMessage msg2(CHILD_ID_2, V_LIGHT); #ifdef USE_TEMP_SENSOR MyMessage msgTemp(CHILD_DSB_ID, V_TEMP); OneWire oneWire(ONE_WIRE_BUS); DallasTemperature sensors(&oneWire); // Pass the oneWire reference to Dallas Temperature. #endif void presentation() { // Send the sketch version information to the gateway and Controller sendSketchInfo("Double Relay & Button", "0.2"); // Register all sensors to gw (they will be created as child devices) present(CHILD_ID, S_LIGHT); present(CHILD_ID_2, S_LIGHT); #ifdef USE_TEMP_SENSOR present(CHILD_DSB_ID, S_TEMP); #endif } void setup() { #ifdef USE_TEMP_SENSOR sensors.begin(); sensors.setWaitForConversion(false); #endif // Setup the button pinMode(BUTTON_PIN, INPUT); // Activate internal pull-up digitalWrite(BUTTON_PIN, HIGH); // Setup the button pinMode(BUTTON_PIN_2, INPUT); // Activate internal pull-up digitalWrite(BUTTON_PIN_2, HIGH); // After setting up the button, setup debouncer debouncer.attach(BUTTON_PIN); debouncer.interval(5); debouncer2.attach(BUTTON_PIN_2); debouncer2.interval(5); // Set the initial values of oldValue/oldValue2 variables from status of physical switches // if this is not done the loop() will detect status change and switch the relays on or off debouncer.update(); debouncer2.update(); oldValue = debouncer.read(); oldValue2 = debouncer2.read(); // Make sure relays are off when starting up setRelayState(RELAY_PIN, RELAY_OFF); // Then set relay pins in output mode pinMode(RELAY_PIN, OUTPUT); digitalWrite(RELAY_PIN_2, RELAY_OFF); // Then set relay pins in output mode pinMode(RELAY_PIN_2, OUTPUT); // Set relay to last known state (using eeprom storage) state = loadState(CHILD_ID); setRelayState(RELAY_PIN, state); state2 = loadState(CHILD_ID_2); setRelayState(RELAY_PIN_2, state2); } /* Example on how to asynchronously check for new messages from gw */ void loop() { #ifdef USE_TEMP_SENSOR static float prevTemp = 0; #endif debouncer.update(); debouncer2.update(); // Get the update value int value = debouncer.read(); int value2 = debouncer2.read(); if (value != oldValue) { send(msg.set(state ? false : true), true); // Send new state and request ack back // Write some debug info printStateChangedDebug(CHANGE_STATE_SOURCE_SWITCH, CHILD_ID, value); } oldValue = value; if (value2 != oldValue2) { send(msg2.set(state2 ? false : true), true); // Send new state and request ack back // Write some debug info printStateChangedDebug(CHANGE_STATE_SOURCE_SWITCH, CHILD_ID_2, value2); } oldValue2 = value2; // Fetch temperatures from Dallas sensors #ifdef USE_TEMP_SENSOR sensors.requestTemperatures(); // Fetch and round temperature to one decimal float temperature = static_cast<float>(static_cast<int>(sensors.getTempCByIndex(0) * TEMPERATURE_ROUNDING)) / TEMPERATURE_ROUNDING; if (temperature != -127.00f && temperature != 85.00f && prevTemp != temperature) { // Send in the new temperature send(msgTemp.set(temperature, 1)); #ifdef MY_DEBUG Serial.print("Sent temperature: "); Serial.println(temperature); #endif prevTemp = temperature; } #endif } void receive(const MyMessage &message) { // We only expect one type of message from controller. But we better check anyway. if (message.isAck()) { #ifdef MY_DEBUG Serial.println(F("This is an ack from gateway")); #endif } else if (message.type == V_LIGHT && message.sensor == CHILD_ID) { // Change relay state state = message.getBool(); setRelayState(RELAY_PIN, state); // Store state in eeprom saveState(CHILD_ID, state); // Write some debug info printStateChangedDebug(CHANGE_STATE_SOURCE_RADIO, CHILD_ID, state); } else if (message.type == V_LIGHT && message.sensor == CHILD_ID_2) { state2 = message.getBool(); setRelayState(RELAY_PIN_2, state2); // Store state in eeprom saveState(CHILD_ID_2, state2); // Write some debug info printStateChangedDebug(CHANGE_STATE_SOURCE_RADIO, CHILD_ID_2, state2); } } // Set status of a relay pin void setRelayState(byte relayPin, bool value) { digitalWrite(relayPin, value ? RELAY_ON : RELAY_OFF); } // Print debug info, centralized in one place to minimize memory usage and have only one #ifdef MY_DEBUG for all state change messages void printStateChangedDebug(int source, int sensorID, bool value) { #ifdef MY_DEBUG Serial.print(F("Sensor value changed, source=")); Serial.print(source == CHANGE_STATE_SOURCE_RADIO ? F("Radio") : F("Physical switch")); Serial.print(F(", Sensor=")); Serial.print(sensorID); Serial.print(F(", New status: ")); Serial.println(value); #endif }
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Anyone has the hardware switches working??? I can't make them work!!!! Help please!!!!!
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I doubt anyone can help you without debug logs from your node and gateway.
You can also look at the logs yourself using this tool to see where messages get stuck or lost.
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How do I wire if I have ''2 buttons on the same lamp'' and also want to connect '' 1buttom to 1lamp'' to the same module how do I wire 2button 1 lamp?
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@hek the think is that the switch works using Domoticz, but when i use the pins for the hardware switch , i get the icons updated in domotics to on or off but my lights stay off
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@johnym30 It might be the way the code is written in your receive function.
When you toggle the hardware switch a message is sent to your controller with the new state, so Domoticz will get this and change the icons accordingly. The message you sent also asks for an ack back, it is this returning ack that is used to switch the relay.
The first If statement in your present code captures the ack and does a serial print but then does nothing else, so your ack is ignored by the rest of the code. So your relay will not be switched.
I see no reason why you need to test for an ack so try the following code and see if it helps
void receive(const MyMessage &message) { if (message.type == V_STATUS) { switch (message.sensor) { case CHILD_ID: state = message.getBool(); // Change relay state setRelayState(RELAY_PIN, state); saveState(CHILD_ID, state); // Store state in eeprom // Write some debug info printStateChangedDebug(CHANGE_STATE_SOURCE_RADIO, CHILD_ID, state); break; case CHILD_ID_2: state2 = message.getBool(); setRelayState(RELAY_PIN_2, state2); saveState(CHILD_ID_2, state2); // Store state in eeprom // Write some debug info printStateChangedDebug(CHANGE_STATE_SOURCE_RADIO, CHILD_ID_2, state2); break; } } }You might also like to move the the lines that set oldvalue to new value. They probably should be inside the relevant if statement. In the original relay with button actuator code they are outside but that is using push buttons not toggle switches.
if (value != oldValue) { send(msg.set(state ? false : true), true); // Send new state and request ack back // Write some debug info printStateChangedDebug(CHANGE_STATE_SOURCE_SWITCH, CHILD_ID, value); oldValue = value; } if (value2 != oldValue2) { send(msg2.set(state2 ? false : true), true); // Send new state and request ack back // Write some debug info printStateChangedDebug(CHANGE_STATE_SOURCE_SWITCH, CHILD_ID_2, value2); oldValue2 = value2; }The other thing you should note is that as the code relies on an ack from your gateway to switch the relay your hardware switches will not work if the gateway is not available. You will need to further modify the code to ensure the switches work at all times.
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@Boots33 Thanks they are working now!!!!!!!
Unfortunately i dont know about coding, i am more of a hardware guy, so i will just have to live with that.Hoping that in the future someone will write something and share it with us.
Thank you once more.
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@johnym30 There are only a few changes to be made to make the hardware switches more reliable. @hek showed in this post some code that could be used.
First you will need to add a line near the top of your sketch to allow the node to execute the loop part of the sketch even if no transport uplink is established. This code needs to be placed before #include <MySensors.h>
#define MY_TRANSPORT_WAIT_READY_MS 3000 //set how long to wait for transport ready.The number at the end of the line is used to set how long to wait in milliseconds. I have found that my nodes will usually connect within 3 seconds.
Then you need to modify the code in the loop part of your sketch.
if (value != oldValue) { state = !state; // Toggle the state send(msg.set(state), false); // send new state to controller, no ack requested setRelayState(RELAY_PIN, state); // switch the relay to the new state saveState(CHILD_ID, state); // Store state in eeprom // Write some debug info printStateChangedDebug(CHANGE_STATE_SOURCE_SWITCH, CHILD_ID, value); oldValue = value; } if (value2 != oldValue2) { state2 = !state2; // Toggle the state send(msg2.set(state2), false); // send new state to controller, no ack requested setRelayState(RELAY_PIN_2, state2); // switch the relay to the new state saveState(CHILD_ID_2, state2); // Store state in eeprom // Write some debug info printStateChangedDebug(CHANGE_STATE_SOURCE_SWITCH, CHILD_ID_2, value2); oldValue2 = value2; }
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@Boots33 Will you please upload your complete code. It is difficult to see the finale solution then I read all the posts.
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@folkestorp I have no node to try it on but the code will look like this. perhaps you can test it and let us know if it works. I have just placed it in the original code of a few posts up
/** * The MySensors Arduino library handles the wireless radio link and protocol * between your home built sensors/actuators and HA controller of choice. * The sensors forms a self healing radio network with optional repeaters. Each * repeater and gateway builds a routing tables in EEPROM which keeps track of the * network topology allowing messages to be routed to nodes. * * Created by Henrik Ekblad <henrik.ekblad@mysensors.org> * Copyright (C) 2013-2015 Sensnology AB * Full contributor list: https://github.com/mysensors/Arduino/graphs/contributors * * Documentation: http://www.mysensors.org * Support Forum: http://forum.mysensors.org * * This program is free software; you can redistribute it and/or * modify it under the terms of the GNU General Public License * version 2 as published by the Free Software Foundation. * ******************************* * * DESCRIPTION * * Script for double SSR relay board by Aproxx * https://www.openhardware.io/view/77/AC-DC-double-solid-state-relay-module * https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/3671/ac-dc-double-solid-state-relay-module * Control 2 circuits either from controller or from physical buttons connected on pins 4 & 7 * Optional DS18b20 is connected on pin 8 * * HISTORY : * xx/xx/2016 original version by Aproxx * 08/02/2016 upgraded to MySensors 2.0 by mr_const * 08/30/2016 changes by Nca78 : * - fixed initialization of physical buttons/debouncer status * - centralized pin status change for relays in setRelayState method * - centralized debug information for state changes in one method + added debug info when changed by physical switches * - added #ifdef MY_DEBUG before each Serial.print (saves prog memory when not in debug mode) and F() macros for debug strings (saves RAM when in debug mode) * - added #define USE_TEMP_SENSOR to make temperature sensor optional (not used if line is commented) * - put back #define for repeater feature * - add #define TEMPERATURE_ROUNDING for custom temperature rounding **/ // MySensor Debug //#define MY_DEBUG // Enables repeater functionality (relays messages from other nodes) //#define MY_REPEATER_FEATURE // Comment line below if you don't want to use the temperature sensor #define USE_TEMP_SENSOR #define MY_TRANSPORT_WAIT_READY_MS 3000 //set how long to wait for transport ready. #define MY_RADIO_NRF24 #include <MySensors.h> #include <SPI.h> #include <Bounce2.h> #define RELAY_PIN 3 // Arduino Digital I/O pin number for relay #define RELAY_PIN_2 5 #define BUTTON_PIN 4 // Arduino Digital I/O pin number for button #define BUTTON_PIN_2 7 #define CHILD_ID 8 // Id of the sensor child for 1st relay #define CHILD_ID_2 9 // Id of the sensor child for 2nd relay // Relay status #define RELAY_ON 1 #define RELAY_OFF 0 // Source of state change (used when printing debug information) #define CHANGE_STATE_SOURCE_RADIO 0 #define CHANGE_STATE_SOURCE_SWITCH 1 // Temperature sensor definitions #ifdef USE_TEMP_SENSOR #include <OneWire.h> #include <DallasTemperature.h> #define ONE_WIRE_BUS 8 #define CHILD_DSB_ID 13 // Id of the sensor child for temperature sensor #define TEMPERATURE_ROUNDING 10.f // Change value to change rounding of temperature value: 10.f for 0.1°C change, 5.f for 0.2°C change, 2.f for 0.5°C change #endif Bounce debouncer = Bounce(); int oldValue; bool state; Bounce debouncer2 = Bounce(); int oldValue2; bool state2; MyMessage msg(CHILD_ID, V_LIGHT); MyMessage msg2(CHILD_ID_2, V_LIGHT); #ifdef USE_TEMP_SENSOR MyMessage msgTemp(CHILD_DSB_ID, V_TEMP); OneWire oneWire(ONE_WIRE_BUS); DallasTemperature sensors(&oneWire); // Pass the oneWire reference to Dallas Temperature. #endif void presentation() { // Send the sketch version information to the gateway and Controller sendSketchInfo("Double Relay & Button", "0.2"); // Register all sensors to gw (they will be created as child devices) present(CHILD_ID, S_LIGHT); present(CHILD_ID_2, S_LIGHT); #ifdef USE_TEMP_SENSOR present(CHILD_DSB_ID, S_TEMP); #endif } void setup() { #ifdef USE_TEMP_SENSOR sensors.begin(); sensors.setWaitForConversion(false); #endif // Setup the button pinMode(BUTTON_PIN, INPUT); // Activate internal pull-up digitalWrite(BUTTON_PIN, HIGH); // Setup the button pinMode(BUTTON_PIN_2, INPUT); // Activate internal pull-up digitalWrite(BUTTON_PIN_2, HIGH); // After setting up the button, setup debouncer debouncer.attach(BUTTON_PIN); debouncer.interval(5); debouncer2.attach(BUTTON_PIN_2); debouncer2.interval(5); // Set the initial values of oldValue/oldValue2 variables from status of physical switches // if this is not done the loop() will detect status change and switch the relays on or off debouncer.update(); debouncer2.update(); oldValue = debouncer.read(); oldValue2 = debouncer2.read(); // Make sure relays are off when starting up setRelayState(RELAY_PIN, RELAY_OFF); // Then set relay pins in output mode pinMode(RELAY_PIN, OUTPUT); digitalWrite(RELAY_PIN_2, RELAY_OFF); // Then set relay pins in output mode pinMode(RELAY_PIN_2, OUTPUT); // Set relay to last known state (using eeprom storage) state = loadState(CHILD_ID); setRelayState(RELAY_PIN, state); state2 = loadState(CHILD_ID_2); setRelayState(RELAY_PIN_2, state2); } /* Example on how to asynchronously check for new messages from gw */ void loop() { #ifdef USE_TEMP_SENSOR static float prevTemp = 0; #endif debouncer.update(); debouncer2.update(); // Get the update value int value = debouncer.read(); int value2 = debouncer2.read(); if (value != oldValue) { state = !state; // Toggle the state send(msg.set(state), false); // send new state to controller, no ack requested setRelayState(RELAY_PIN, state); // switch the relay to the new state saveState(CHILD_ID, state); // Store state in eeprom // Write some debug info printStateChangedDebug(CHANGE_STATE_SOURCE_SWITCH, CHILD_ID, value); oldValue = value; } if (value2 != oldValue2) { state2 = !state2; // Toggle the state send(msg2.set(state2), false); // send new state to controller, no ack requested setRelayState(RELAY_PIN_2, state2); // switch the relay to the new state saveState(CHILD_ID_2, state2); // Store state in eeprom // Write some debug info printStateChangedDebug(CHANGE_STATE_SOURCE_SWITCH, CHILD_ID_2, value2); oldValue2 = value2; } // Fetch temperatures from Dallas sensors #ifdef USE_TEMP_SENSOR sensors.requestTemperatures(); // Fetch and round temperature to one decimal float temperature = static_cast<float>(static_cast<int>(sensors.getTempCByIndex(0) * TEMPERATURE_ROUNDING)) / TEMPERATURE_ROUNDING; if (temperature != -127.00f && temperature != 85.00f && prevTemp != temperature) { // Send in the new temperature send(msgTemp.set(temperature, 1)); #ifdef MY_DEBUG Serial.print("Sent temperature: "); Serial.println(temperature); #endif prevTemp = temperature; } #endif } void receive(const MyMessage &message) { if (message.type == V_STATUS) { switch (message.sensor) { case CHILD_ID: state = message.getBool(); // Change relay state setRelayState(RELAY_PIN, state); saveState(CHILD_ID, state); // Store state in eeprom // Write some debug info printStateChangedDebug(CHANGE_STATE_SOURCE_RADIO, CHILD_ID, state); break; case CHILD_ID_2: state2 = message.getBool(); setRelayState(RELAY_PIN_2, state2); saveState(CHILD_ID_2, state2); // Store state in eeprom // Write some debug info printStateChangedDebug(CHANGE_STATE_SOURCE_RADIO, CHILD_ID_2, state2); break; } } } // Set status of a relay pin void setRelayState(byte relayPin, bool value) { digitalWrite(relayPin, value ? RELAY_ON : RELAY_OFF); } // Print debug info, centralized in one place to minimize memory usage and have only one #ifdef MY_DEBUG for all state change messages void printStateChangedDebug(int source, int sensorID, bool value) { #ifdef MY_DEBUG Serial.print(F("Sensor value changed, source=")); Serial.print(source == CHANGE_STATE_SOURCE_RADIO ? F("Radio") : F("Physical switch")); Serial.print(F(", Sensor=")); Serial.print(sensorID); Serial.print(F(", New status: ")); Serial.println(value); #endif }
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@Boots33 I have test your code without temp sensor. It works perfect. Thank you!!!
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@folkestorp great. Thanks for reporting back.
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I got a problem. I connected the board directly to ä powersource but the adapter doesnt output 5V . The part before just output 230 v just fine. Any one has any sugestions on whatsapp im missing?
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@XerOps do you have 230V on the input pins of the HLK ?
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@Nca78 Well yeah, trough a completly soldered board tough, with both fuses and the varsisitator.
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Hi,
Many thanks for sharing this project!
Is this also possible to post a picture of the other side of the PCB in order to get a better idea on how the Arduino is soldered?
Kind regards,
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@laucarlier said in
AC-DC double solid state relay module:
Hello, i have posted fiew pictures here : http://www.photorapide.com/albums/jordan/khreln/ac-dc-double-solid-state-relay-module.html
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Hi Tonerre33,
Thanks a lot for sharing the picture of your project!
I really like the idea of the way you put the PSU and the arduino so that you win a lot of space!
Kind regards,
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Hi,
it is very cool project. I assembled one but when I test it this is what I get:
16:18:39.980 [DEBUG] [orsAbstractConnection$MySensorsReader] - Message from gateway received: 0;255;3;0;9;TSF:MSG:READ,101-101-255,s=255,c=3,t=7,pt=0,l=0,sg=0:
16:18:39.981 [DEBUG] [orsAbstractConnection$MySensorsReader] - Message from gateway received: 0;255;3;0;9;TSF:MSG:BC
16:18:39.982 [DEBUG] [orsAbstractConnection$MySensorsReader] - Message from gateway received: 0;255;3;0;9;TSF:MSG:FPAR REQ,ID=101
16:18:39.985 [DEBUG] [orsAbstractConnection$MySensorsReader] - Message from gateway received: 0;255;3;0;9;TSF:PNG:SEND,TO=0
16:18:39.988 [DEBUG] [orsAbstractConnection$MySensorsReader] - Message from gateway received: 0;255;3;0;9;TSF:CKU:OK
16:18:39.993 [DEBUG] [orsAbstractConnection$MySensorsReader] - Message from gateway received: 0;255;3;0;9;TSF:MSG:GWL OK
16:18:40.963 [DEBUG] [orsAbstractConnection$MySensorsReader] - Message from gateway received: 0;255;3;0;9;Will not sign message for destination 101 as it does not require it
16:18:41.004 [DEBUG] [orsAbstractConnection$MySensorsReader] - Message from gateway received: 0;255;3;0;9;!TSF:MSG:SEND,0-0-101-101,s=255,c=3,t=8,pt=1,l=1,sg=0,ft=0,st=NACK:0
16:18:41.010 [DEBUG] [orsAbstractConnection$MySensorsReader] - Message from gateway received: 0;255;3;0;9;TSF:MSG:READ,12-12-0,s=255,c=3,t=24,pt=1,l=1,sg=0:1
16:18:41.013 [DEBUG] [orsAbstractConnection$MySensorsReader] - Message from gateway received: 0;255;3;0;9;TSF:MSG:PINGED,ID=12,HP=1
16:18:41.018 [DEBUG] [orsAbstractConnection$MySensorsReader] - Message from gateway received: 0;255;3;0;9;Skipping security for command 3 type 25
16:18:41.029 [DEBUG] [orsAbstractConnection$MySensorsReader] - Message from gateway received: 0;255;3;0;9;TSF:MSG:SEND,0-0-12-12,s=255,c=3,t=25,pt=1,l=1,sg=0,ft=0,st=OK:1
16:18:44.038 [DEBUG] [orsAbstractConnection$MySensorsReader] - Message from gateway received: 0;255;3;0;9;TSF:MSG:READ,101-101-255,s=255,c=3,t=7,pt=0,l=0,sg=0:
16:18:44.039 [DEBUG] [orsAbstractConnection$MySensorsReader] - Message from gateway received: 0;255;3;0;9;TSF:MSG:BC
16:18:44.040 [DEBUG] [orsAbstractConnection$MySensorsReader] - Message from gateway received: 0;255;3;0;9;TSF:MSG:FPAR REQ,ID=101
16:18:44.041 [DEBUG] [orsAbstractConnection$MySensorsReader] - Message from gateway received: 0;255;3;0;9;TSF:CKU:OK,FCTRL
16:18:44.044 [DEBUG] [orsAbstractConnection$MySensorsReader] - Message from gateway received: 0;255;3;0;9;TSF:MSG:GWL OK
16:18:44.974 [DEBUG] [orsAbstractConnection$MySensorsReader] - Message from gateway received: 0;255;3;0;9;Will not sign message for destination 101 as it does not require it
16:18:45.016 [DEBUG] [orsAbstractConnection$MySensorsReader] - Message from gateway received: 0;255;3;0;9;!TSF:MSG:SEND,0-0-101-101,s=255,c=3,t=8,pt=1,l=1,sg=0,ft=0,st=NACK:0I guess it shows that radio has unreliable power. Please advise how should I debug?
regards
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The problem dissapeared when I changed 4.7uf capacitator to 47uf. works great!
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Where to find a sketch with temperature read?
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@rzylius could you be a bit more specific? Do you want a way to read the temperature of the solid state relay?
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Hello,
Thank you for sharing this project. I have built it and am testing it on my outdoor lights.
.
I have three issues I can't seem to figure out and am hoping others may have had similar problems and figured out a fix.First some background. I built a double relay board and have 120V 60 hz power. I am controlling it through MyNodes 2.0. I am using an unedited version of the source code. My networks includes about 7 other nodes that are only measuring temperature. Half of them are set up to be repeater nodes. I was suspicious that I may be getting interference from the other nodes causing the problem but have had the same problems with the other nodes disabled.
Here are the issues I am trying to fix.
- I am finding that the relays will not stay in the position they are controlled to be in. Mostly they close when controlled to be open but also they are opening when controlled to be closed.
- When in a closed state relay 1 flickers every few minutes. I have replaced this relay and still have the same issue.
- The hardwired switch control isn't working for me work. The switch only causes a flicker in the lights.
Any suggestions? For me Half of the fun in the projects is trouble shooting and making them work. I'll send updates on any fixes I come across.
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Hi and Thank you for the Board!!!
My question is, kann I user an usual old fashioned Light switch or must I buy a push button??
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@nca78
I used the code and it worked well with the remote control.-
I can switch a LED (for testing purposes attached instead of a SSR) on and off.
If I want to switch the LED with a push button I fail.This is what I have changed:
#define RELAY_PIN 4 // Arduino Digital I/O pin number for relay
#define RELAY_PIN_2 5
#define BUTTON_PIN 3 // Arduino Digital I/O pin number for button
#define BUTTON_PIN_2 7And this is the serial output I get, after I press the button:
This is an ack from gateway
1107867 TSF:MSG:SEND,10-10-0-0,s=111,c=1,t=2,pt=1,l=1,sg=0,ft=0,st=OK:1
Sensor value changed, source=Physical switch, Sensor=111, New status: 0
1107877 TSF:MSG:READ,0-0-10,s=111,c=1,t=2,pt=1,l=1,sg=0:1
1107888 TSF:MSG:ACK
This is an ack from gateway
1108520 TSF:MSG:SEND,10-10-0-0,s=111,c=1,t=2,pt=1,l=1,sg=0,ft=0,st=OK:1
Sensor value changed, source=Physical switch, Sensor=111, New status: 1
1108531 TSF:MSG:READ,0-0-10,s=111,c=1,t=2,pt=1,l=1,sg=0:1
1108541 TSF:MSG:ACK
This is an ack from gateway
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Hi,
Any particular reason for the values of the thermal cut-offs? (73ºC, 10A)?
This temperature (73ºC) makes it difficult to solder, I've burned a couple when trying to solder it... And why 10A? Shouldn't we get a lower current? I know the other fuse is limiting the current to 0.2A, but if we have a lower current on this one we may get cheaper components... Wouldn't this one, for instance, do the same function? https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Pcs-Fuji-Microtemp-Thermal-Fuse-115-TF-Cutoff-1A-250V-New/322657006381If the PCB is inside a box, without any lossen wires, couldn't we limit the temperature to a sliglhly higher value (115ºC)?
Thanks
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Hello @joaoabs,
I think it is based on measurements here :
https://lygte-info.dk/review/Power Mains to 5V 0.6A Hi-Link HLK-PM01 UK.htmlAs you can see when he tests at full load (0.6A) for a long time, max temperature is a bit over 60°C. So temperature should not be too much higher than that if you want to detect abnormal overheating. 115° is higher than what is measured at the hottest point on the top of the enclosure after 15mn overloading at twice the maximum load, so I don't think it's safe to use a temp fuse that high.
For the max current there might be a short inrush current when switching on, so 1A could be a bit low (and that's why the other fuse is a slow blow fuse), but feel free to try and report
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This looks like a great PCB and I'm interested in ordering a few from DirtyPCBs, however OpenHardware.io shows this project as "Work in Progress". Are there any plans to do additional updates to this PCB?
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Hi,
did you consider redesigning the PCB using mini nrf24l01+ like this:
It could compact the size of the whole device. Moreover it would be great to have GND and Vcc (3.3V or 5V), and 4 GPIO (ie. 2 analog, 2 digital) pins led out on the PCB (there are 6 holes on the edge not used as I understand?). It would be great to have an option to connect some additional sensors (I use 2 dht22 sensors for environment monitoring in some projects).
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Unfortunately the Bottom copper layer is corrupted.
Anybody has a good file for me?
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how is the board and specially the hlk-pm01 transformer,that is the component that i need more trust ,after 3 years of work?
i want to make some rolle shutter controllers to replace the expensive and buggy fibaro FGR-223 new modules.
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What varistor should I use for 240VAC in Australia? The linked AliExpress item is no longer available.
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Hi all,
I've got two fully equipped, ready to go soldered v3.3.2 boards, two working USB gateways based on Arduino Nano, as well as 8 unsoldered PCBs (without the parts) to give away. I've used the system in my previous flat and it worked great. However, when I moved I wasn't able to fit them behind my light switches :(((
I don't have time anymore to solder my own boards and switched to some China Zigbee boards. They use cheap standard relais and do not react as quick as the mysensor module unfortunately. Long story short, they are sitting around in my cupboard and I thought it might help someone to quickly expand their system or to kickstart before investing to much effort.
I'm based in Germany so I would prefer to ship it to someone in Germany, however if nobody is interested then I would ship it abroad as well. Message me if you're interested
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Unfortunately the Bottom copper layer is corrupted.
(Spam links removed by moderator)
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Does anyone know how to convert diptrace to kicad format? I want to try and edit to make a RFM69 version.
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@kaylestoinis In principle, I tried to do it this way and succeeded:
- Installed diptrace free
- opened the schematic file
- exported to eagle
- imported eagle file in KiCad
- same for the board file
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thanks for the design.
I did build a unit in 2018.
Today I build one to control the light on my front door. It will be triggered by the IR Motion sensor.
The Switch indoors will be just to power the light (and the arduino) off completly.
Because of the IR Sensor VCC near the PIN 4 GND GND PIN7 Header.
I routed my own with a wire.Never have I soldered a slow blow fuse in one go
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What I didn't quite figure out was how it operates independently as a regular light switch.
What I find most interesting is that this is 8 years old. There have been some incredible advances in the IoT world in that time. I was about to do a similar thing which morphed into an ESP-12F then added a touch screen. I call it the Universal Light Switch
Imagine this: All the switches are identical. Any switch can easily be configured to control up to five devices ... and then changed, on-the-fly, to control a different set of devices.
My design is part of a system that would require a controller (eg. Home Assistant), an MQTT broker, and receiving modules in the devices being switched. It's WiFI which assumes an access point.
The DIY ULS is under $20 and the off-the-shelf receiving modules are under $10. (About the cost of a non-networked dimmer switch) If one doesn't have the controller and MQTT broker, they can run on an old (5 years?) computer (which is cheaper than an old RasberryPi).
This project is a good one!
OSD
