Nice project :+1: manufacturers datasheets, RF appnotes etc all mention this, with results for different usecases (like gnd plane size etc). I mentioned it a few times on the forum: nothing under or near antenna (keep out zone) their matching circuit, and CE/FCC certif are based on their development boards+their antenna if external, often without enclosure. there are a very few pcb antennas which are resilient to untuning. ceramic or meandered pcb are usually more compact but less resilient (like when you approach your hand and device suddently has better or worst communication) once you change any of these parameters (board shape, gnd size, enclosure etc), it breaks FCC, and may need retuning, still you can get useable range. "ideally" tuning should be done once enclosed for example. manufacturers can't cover all cases. on my side, I try to follow these rules. and when interested in a design or a device, I check this. Mainly the routing+gnd, antenna choice, keepout zone, and orientation vs my usecase (long range needed or not for example)

Package: YesUse: SwitchUse: Automated curtainsUse: UniversalUse: Electric DoorUse: TVUse: LightingChannel: 4Wireless Communication: RFBrand Name: QIACHIPFrequency: 433 MHzSupport APP: NoModel Number: KT16+480E*4Working Voltage: DC 3.3~5VEncoding Type: Learning EV1527Application example 1: Mandos a Distancia De Puertas De GarageApplication example 3: Garage Doors Access Control SsystemWorking Temperature: -25~75Use: Automated curtains,Universal,Switch,Electric DoReceiving Sensitivity: -108dBQuiescent Current: <5mAApplication example 2: Electronic Gates Access Control SystemApplication example 4: Electrical Appliances Control```

The author has done some good work ensuring good design practices; trace separation, fuses, etc. but I don't see any extra I/O brought out on this particularl switch. You would have to carefully solder to the chip itself, and modify the code a bit. You could use magnetic switches. Put a magnet on the blinds and the switch in window sill. The author notes that this is not an Arduino, but uses the same chip that the Arduino uses. The author doesn't explain how the chip is programmed. This method could have been used. It may be just as easy to use an RF Nano with a little power supply. This suggestion is not nearly as robust as the author's. For example, these power supplies have gotten bad reviews mainly because the mains power traces are too close together. I justify using them because in all likelihood a failure will pop the power supply and probably the Nano, too, noting that these are cheaper than the fuses you would put in to protect them. I am fully aware of the risks involved in doing this, and you should be, too (eg. burning down your house). -OSD

Hi! Going through examples and forum topics I've noticed that I'm using the wrong S-type and V-type. I'm writing a new version of the code with S_LIGHT and V_LIGHT so there is now dimmer functionality (which I don't need). Let's see if this helps.

[image: 1528923174181-9bfda433-3e4a-4e5b-acf7-5aaa7fe96fad-image.png] [image: 1528923207627-97719b33-6c08-4556-b40f-9b84d63d5197-image.png] ESUN flex filament used.

I have published all the documentation in a Github repository. If someone wants to make PCBs, I recommend that you wait a little longer until you receive my PCBs and try them. https://github.com/giltesa/SmartHome

@dzungpham0703 I buy them on Aliexpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20180706102504&SearchText=HTTM If you apply hot air it is easy to take off the white "double sided tape" and the plastic.

Hello, I'm thinking about upgrading this board to include pinout for LIS3DH breakout board, like this one : https://www.aliexpress.com/item/LIS3DH-Three-Converters-Motion-Accelerometer-Triaxial-Acceleration-Temperature-Sensor-Module-Development-Board-Replace-ADXL345/32840326778.html and ditch the ADXL shield as it's not a good solution, it has either the ADXL345 which uses too much power, or the ADXL362 which is ultra low power but lacks advanced functionality like tap/double tap detection. I would like to have feedback of users on this (do it sound useful ?), and also know if anyone uses the SMD footprints on the board, for leds and for reserve capacitors, as it could be a cleaner board without those footprints. I would make the following changes : put footprint for LIS3DH accelerometer along the "NModule connector" as it has too many pins to put elsewhere keep only one I2C footprint on the side, for "GY-49" MAX44009 light sensor breakout board: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/GY-49-MAX44009-Ambient-Light-Sensor-Module-for-Arduino-with-4P-Pin-Header-Module/32828654450.html temperature/humidity would be via the existing "SMD" footprint, it's not through hole but very easy to solder as it's 2.54mm pad spacing remove SMD footprints for LED, add footprint for through hole reserve capacitor, keep SMD footprints for reserve capacitors only if I have space for them shield would be a bit extended to go over the 2 M2 holes in the "power" part of the NModule, so it could be fitted with spacers and nylon screws and have stable/reliable mechanical connection between NModule and Shield. Basically this would be the footprint of the shield : [image: 1527422033742-c8e52cd0-47fe-4a5e-b6a3-554e216603cc-image.png] So in the end it would make one shield to have Temperature/Humidity/Light/Acceleration or Temperature/Humidity/Light/Door.

@zmatokan said in 💬 NModule: @Nca78 Are you still working on this pcbs? i think it would be great to add a version that supports HiLink 220ac->5dc module on powerboard. No I'm not working on NModules anymore, I have a few old nodes using atmega/nrf24 but I switched to NRF5 for "basic" nodes now, and to ESP32 for more "advanced" stuff. NModule was designed for beginner and simple/riskless use, so I don't think adding high voltage option is a great idea, it's better to use an external power supply and connect the output to the powerboard.

@Samuel235 said in 💬 Homini AC Powered Relay (2) Module: OMRON G3MB-202P Okay I'm trying to help you with the fuse component. ;-) I found a datasheet for the OMRON G3MB-202P. And there are enoght information to be known for fuse selection. :-) I try to calculate it here (and i will try it with my bad English ;-) ). The most important information is the melting integral. The Melting integral has A²s as unit. So this means the maximum current for a time can exists without damaging the device. For further information look at wikipedia. So we need any further information about: the protection which is present before (the typical circuit protection in private houses) the melting integral from the device which we want to protect the maximum voltage the maximum switching current the breaking capacity Inrush current for the switched devices (we can't know) Typical values for an automatic circuit breaker in private houses are: from 25 to 100 A²s 230 V AC 16 A So this protection isn't good enough for our relay. The relay have these values: 230 V AC 2 A maximum switching current I²t value (melting integral): 4 A²s the allowed inrush current over a small time is higher than the melting integral. It is a bit confusing i think, but if we calculate the protection for the given melting integral and it's fine. So we can define the parameters for the client (switching site of this application here) The fuse have to be: I²s value higher or equal than the I²s value from the existing protection rating voltage over 230 V AC rating current 2 A or lower (because 2 A is the maximum at 25 °C, for 40 °C it is about 1.6 A) a maximum switching time of 1 second at 2 A or lower time with higher current but below 4A²s! To calculate use the switching time from the fuse datasheet an multiply it two times with the given current for this switching time. And i think a fast blow fuse would be the best. There are SMD fuses with 10.1 x 3 mm and 250 V AC available. If there is no fuse available with the values above, we could combine multiple fuses. A possible solution could be one bigger fuse for both relays and the ac/dc component. And a smaller fuse for the switching site of the relay and the HLK-PM01. But for this it is important that the circuit have only one input for the hot one (L) of 230 V and one output for each relay. In this case we could reduce the big connectors from 6 to 4. Like (L, N, Relay1, Relay2). And the temperature fuse can work for all components too ;-) So the protection for the primary site of the HLK-PM01 is a problem i think. Because the are no information available about the I²s value from HLK-PM01. I hope you can understand my English and could follow my explanation?

@mahesh2000 https://www.openhardware.io/view/299/Button-size-radionode-with-sensors-swarm-extension

Hi @aramko-aramko. Unfortunately, this model is already sold. You can look at the upgraded version of this device - MDMSNode "Lighting" Rev 1.1.

Hi, nice projet. I am very interested in it. But why you are using 5 V and not 3.3 V? The ATmea328 works with 3.3 V too and the NRF have to use 3.3 V. The only restriction on 3.3 V is the clock limitation for the Atmega (8 MHz). But with no crystal it don't care. For example you could use an HLK-PM03 instead of HLK-PM01 and remove the linear voltage regulator. So you get more space an everything have the same voltage level. And another point is, it is recommended to use a capacitor (0.1 µF) to ground for each voltage pin (Vcc, Avcc, Aref).

What I didn't quite figure out was how it operates independently as a regular light switch. What I find most interesting is that this is 8 years old. There have been some incredible advances in the IoT world in that time. I was about to do a similar thing which morphed into an ESP-12F then added a touch screen. I call it the Universal Light Switch Imagine this: All the switches are identical. Any switch can easily be configured to control up to five devices ... and then changed, on-the-fly, to control a different set of devices. My design is part of a system that would require a controller (eg. Home Assistant), an MQTT broker, and receiving modules in the devices being switched. It's WiFI which assumes an access point. The DIY ULS is under $20 and the off-the-shelf receiving modules are under $10. (About the cost of a non-networked dimmer switch) If one doesn't have the controller and MQTT broker, they can run on an old (5 years?) computer (which is cheaper than an old RasberryPi). This project is a good one! OSD

this kind of optic fiber is probably only plastic so for a full DIY , you can use also fishing wire with a big power led or an old chistmass tree optic fiber lighted.....

@Samuel235 said: Just one of many ideas, the possibilties are endless. I'de always go for RGB leds over just white, allows for more customisation while able to still give you the same white as the white leds. ... unless, as in my use case, colors are not needed. I'm too stingy to pay for the unused dry powder! ;)

@Samuel235 I am looking at a CO sensor too, do you have any updates on the ones you are using? What is the exact model?

@JahFyahh - I still haven't managed to et round to it. I've been really busy since this project and its still hectic here. I'm sure i read a few reviews somewhere, here or google. Not sure.

Hi, possible to share pcb files? THX MiKa