💬 AC-DC double solid state relay module
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@Samuel235 Check http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/1607/safe-in-wall-ac-to-dc-transformers/295 - below post #295 is a great discussion about slow/fast blow.
@sundberg84, @m26872 - Thanks for pointing me over there. I had read through those before but didn't take it all in back then as i wasn't doing my module back then. Thank you for reminding me!
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Hello @aproxx I was developing something similar but using a ATMEGA328 chip, that way I would make it smaller! Can I ask you way do you use 2 100nf Capacitors after the HLK? And what is the width of the copper lines in the 220v and signal?
Thank you
And great work -
Hello @aproxx I was developing something similar but using a ATMEGA328 chip, that way I would make it smaller! Can I ask you way do you use 2 100nf Capacitors after the HLK? And what is the width of the copper lines in the 220v and signal?
Thank you
And great work@Soloam, the capacitors after the HLK are to filter out any noise from the HLK and the AC Input side of the circuitry. I personally shoot for a 100uF cap if its below 5A and anything over 5A i'de drop a 440uF in, along with a 0.1uF next to it. This isn't saying Aproxx is wrong or incorrect in any way, that is just my personal preference.
As for the trace width, i can't help you on that one as i can't open any of his board files to get a reading on them. I'm sure he will provide some more detailed information for you.
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I let approx answer for his width trace :)
You can find online tools to calc this, plus there are different strategy like using a pcb with thicker copper (2oz but more expensive than of 1oz common). Like no soldermask so you add some solder or/and piece of copper wire to improve thickness etc..The thicker copper, the smaller the trace.
For the capacitor, it's for filtering output ripple, not input! there is no 5A on output.
Only 2cap can't filter everything.. but that will improve and work better than nothing ;) And increasing a lot the 100uf like 400uf won't change things, it could be less efficient. I won't do a lesson (I'm not expert too) but sometimes its preferable to use multiple different value capacitor depending on what you want to filter. And here again there are other filtering techniques which can be used. but that's if you have problem with those ripples on your circuit and it's easier to have a scope to check how this improve. -
I let approx answer for his width trace :)
You can find online tools to calc this, plus there are different strategy like using a pcb with thicker copper (2oz but more expensive than of 1oz common). Like no soldermask so you add some solder or/and piece of copper wire to improve thickness etc..The thicker copper, the smaller the trace.
For the capacitor, it's for filtering output ripple, not input! there is no 5A on output.
Only 2cap can't filter everything.. but that will improve and work better than nothing ;) And increasing a lot the 100uf like 400uf won't change things, it could be less efficient. I won't do a lesson (I'm not expert too) but sometimes its preferable to use multiple different value capacitor depending on what you want to filter. And here again there are other filtering techniques which can be used. but that's if you have problem with those ripples on your circuit and it's easier to have a scope to check how this improve.And there is the more advanced version of my reply, thanks to @scalz.
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@Soloam I'm actually not using 2 100nF capacitors, but 1 100nF and 100 uF capacitor. Exactly for the reason that scalz mentioned. :) I'm not saying these are the perfect values to use, but I came across similar values some time ago, and these give me a decent and stable voltage.
The width of my copper traces is 2mm for the entire high voltage circuit. I have used a trade width/thickness calculator, and it should be more than sufficient to power the HLK-PM01.
However, it is not sufficient for the traces between the relays and the connectors because it should be able to handle up to 2A (limiting factor of the solid state relays). That's why I have designed this board with open air traces between the relays and the connectors. That way it's possible to reinforce the traces with solder, after which it should be able to withstand 2 Amps.And good luck with designing your version of the board! If there is a way to decrease the board size even further that would be great!
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Hello all, I finished my version of this idea! Thank you to @aproxx for the help! I used a ATMEGA328, this wil make it a bit cheaper. https://www.openhardware.io/view/83
I need some help validating the layout, most important the 220v traces and the capacitors used in the layout!
Thank you all
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Just a thought : Why not use RAW instead of VCC so a 3.3V mini can be used as thus no logic conversion needed for RFM69? The SSR works find below 3v as it happens. Also means no need for the voltage changer. Could also look at getting the 3.3V HLMs also I guess.
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Hi @approx, there is 4k7 resistor placeholder under arduino, near 100nf capacitor, but you didn't mention it in a project description - is this resistor optional?
@Konstantin-Kolesnichenko, I would highly recommend the pullup resistor.
Please see https://wp.josh.com/2014/06/23/no-external-pull-up-needed-for-ds18b20-temp-sensor/ for more information regarding this resistor.
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How many pieces got ordering paying $ 14 http://dirtypcbs.com/index.php ?
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anybody who's got a complete kit for sale ? Want to test build one (single relay is enough)
(or maybe nicer: a 3in1 solution : Motion detection , relais , DHT of other temp sensor) -
this looks like a great project. Have anyone made a complete shopping / whish-list on Alibaba for all the components needed? ( I´m lookin for safest version possible =)
Many thanks,
Henrik@badmannen I have ordered nearly everything on aliexpress but I had to buy from many different sellers to have everything, I don't know if they are all reliable, I will know in 3-4 weeks and then post the links for the items I received.
I took some 250mA fuses as no one was selling 200mA slow fuses on aliexpress, and also some 77°C temp fuses instead of the 73° because they were less than half the price. I'll grill one or two to make sure they are real temp fuses when I receive them ;)Not sure if I order the PCBs from DirtyPCB now or if I wait to received my previous (and first order there) to be sure they will reach my mailbox...
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this looks like a great project. Have anyone made a complete shopping / whish-list on Alibaba for all the components needed? ( I´m lookin for safest version possible =)
Many thanks,
Henrik@badmannen I have just received my temp fuses, 1 of the 10 is dead, I tested one that was ok to make sure it was a temp fuse. I used the thermometer function on my multimeter and heated at the same time with my soldering iron at lowest temperature possible (200°C).
Heated until thermometer reached 50°C, fuse was still ok.
Heated again a bit longer and I heard some noise when thermometer went over 60°C. I stopped and checked: the fuse was blown. Given that multimeter thermometer is not extremely precise and has some lag to increase the temperature, I think the claim of 77°C cut off is probably right or at least not far from reality. And at least I'm sure these are temp fuses. I'm not testing another one as I have only 8 left now and I'm nearly sure I'll burn a few when soldering :D[edit] 77° fuses not sold anymore :(
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/10pcs-lot-RY77-TF-77-Degree-Celsius-77C-10A-250V-Temperature-Thermal-Fuse/32577243105.html
I will order that next, from same seller, look like the same fuses, just 72°C which should be fine in our case.
http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/20pcs-lot-RY72-TF-72-Degree-Celsius-72C-10A-250V-Temperature-Thermal-Fuse/1021664_32660871006.html -
Hi @aproxx , very nice module! Just one question: after studying the board I still not quite understand how an existing light switch needs to be connected. There are 3 connecters, one for AC and two relays. Where do I connect the light switch to?
Cheers! Sacha
