Multisensor PIR based on IKEA Molgan
-
How would a sketch for this PIR look like? I tried combining the PIR and RelayActuator but my skills are not enough.
This is what I have came up with:
/** * The MySensors Arduino library handles the wireless radio link and protocol * between your home built sensors/actuators and HA controller of choice. * The sensors forms a self healing radio network with optional repeaters. Each * repeater and gateway builds a routing tables in EEPROM which keeps track of the * network topology allowing messages to be routed to nodes. * * Created by Henrik Ekblad <henrik.ekblad@mysensors.org> * Copyright (C) 2013-2015 Sensnology AB * Full contributor list: https://github.com/mysensors/Arduino/graphs/contributors * * Documentation: http://www.mysensors.org * Support Forum: http://forum.mysensors.org * * This program is free software; you can redistribute it and/or * modify it under the terms of the GNU General Public License * version 2 as published by the Free Software Foundation. * ******************************* * * REVISION HISTORY * Version 1.0 - Henrik Ekblad * * DESCRIPTION * Motion Sensor example using HC-SR501 * http://www.mysensors.org/build/motion * */ // Enable debug prints #define MY_DEBUG // Enable and select radio type attached //#define MY_RADIO_NRF24 #define MY_RADIO_RFM69 #include <SPI.h> #include <MySensors.h> unsigned long SLEEP_TIME = 120000; // Sleep time between reports (in milliseconds) #define DIGITAL_INPUT_SENSOR 3 // The digital input you attached your motion sensor. (Only 2 and 3 generates interrupt!) #define RELAY_1 9 // Arduino Digital I/O pin number for first relay (second on pin+1 etc) #define NUMBER_OF_RELAYS 1 // Total number of attached relays #define RELAY_ON 1 // GPIO value to write to turn on attached relay #define RELAY_OFF 0 // GPIO value to write to turn off attached relay #define CHILD_ID 1 // Id of the sensor child #define SECONDARY_CHILD_ID 4 void before() { for (int sensor=1, pin=RELAY_1; sensor<=NUMBER_OF_RELAYS;sensor++, pin++) { // Then set relay pins in output mode pinMode(pin, OUTPUT); // Set relay to last known state (using eeprom storage) digitalWrite(pin, loadState(sensor)?RELAY_ON:RELAY_OFF); } } // Initialize motion message MyMessage msg(CHILD_ID, V_TRIPPED); void setup() { pinMode(DIGITAL_INPUT_SENSOR, INPUT); // sets the motion sensor digital pin as input } void presentation() { // Send the sketch version information to the gateway and Controller sendSketchInfo("Light/Motion Sensor ikea", "1.0"); // Register all sensors to gw (they will be created as child devices) present(CHILD_ID, S_MOTION); for (int sensor=1, pin=RELAY_1; sensor<=NUMBER_OF_RELAYS;sensor++, pin++) { // Register all sensors to gw (they will be created as child devices) present(sensor, S_LIGHT); } void loop() { // Read digital motion value boolean tripped = digitalRead(DIGITAL_INPUT_SENSOR) == HIGH; Serial.println(tripped); send(msg.set(tripped?"1":"0")); // Send tripped value to gw // Sleep until interrupt comes in on motion sensor. Send update every two minute. sleep(digitalPinToInterrupt(DIGITAL_INPUT_SENSOR), CHANGE, SLEEP_TIME); } void receive(const MyMessage &message) { // We only expect one type of message from controller. But we better check anyway. if (message.type==V_LIGHT) { // Change relay state digitalWrite(message.sensor-1+RELAY_1, message.getBool()?RELAY_ON:RELAY_OFF); // Store state in eeprom saveState(message.sensor, message.getBool()); // Write some debug info Serial.print("Incoming change for sensor:"); Serial.print(message.sensor); Serial.print(", New status: "); Serial.println(message.getBool()); } }But it does not complie after the last part is added. And I would also like to get the vcc -stuff into the same sketch. Could someone post a working sketch for this?
@Cliff-Karlsson the receive routine is out of the repeat loop
-
Ok, tried placing it in the loop to but with the same result. In the RelayActuator it looks like it really is placed outside the loop: RelayActuator
What would the prefered way be to connect the power to the a 3.3v arduino for the best battery time?
4.5v from the PIR regulator --> Arduino RAW (using 3 batteries)
3v from the PIR regulator --> Arduino VCC (3batteries)And how would I power it from only 2 batteries? would not the PIR or leds need higher voltage than 3v ?
-
Ok, tried placing it in the loop to but with the same result. In the RelayActuator it looks like it really is placed outside the loop: RelayActuator
What would the prefered way be to connect the power to the a 3.3v arduino for the best battery time?
4.5v from the PIR regulator --> Arduino RAW (using 3 batteries)
3v from the PIR regulator --> Arduino VCC (3batteries)And how would I power it from only 2 batteries? would not the PIR or leds need higher voltage than 3v ?
-
Hi guys,
I'm struggling with this one unfortunately, i can't get it to trip/untrip.
Sketch is identical to the motion example.
I've removed the photo diode (not bridged the gap, it looks like bridging the gap stops it from tripping at all, leaving it open means it trips whatever the light level is). This was tested without connecting to the arduino, working as normal.
So i've removed resistor 17, and connected my arduino pin 4 up to the chip side of where R17 was. I'm running the main board of the existing power lines, but i've tapped into the + of the middle battery and that's going to VCC on the arduino. Arduino nano GND is connected to the main board -.
Where am I going wrong? I've tried this on two boards now and they're both acting the same. Serial monitor is just showing me:
send: 14-14-4-0 s=1,c=1,t=16,pt=0,l=1,sg=0,st=ok:1
1
send: 14-14-4-0 s=1,c=1,t=16,pt=0,l=1,sg=0,st=ok:1
1
send: 14-14-4-0 s=1,c=1,t=16,pt=0,l=1,sg=0,st=ok:1
1Thanks,
Patrick
-
Hi guys,
I'm struggling with this one unfortunately, i can't get it to trip/untrip.
Sketch is identical to the motion example.
I've removed the photo diode (not bridged the gap, it looks like bridging the gap stops it from tripping at all, leaving it open means it trips whatever the light level is). This was tested without connecting to the arduino, working as normal.
So i've removed resistor 17, and connected my arduino pin 4 up to the chip side of where R17 was. I'm running the main board of the existing power lines, but i've tapped into the + of the middle battery and that's going to VCC on the arduino. Arduino nano GND is connected to the main board -.
Where am I going wrong? I've tried this on two boards now and they're both acting the same. Serial monitor is just showing me:
send: 14-14-4-0 s=1,c=1,t=16,pt=0,l=1,sg=0,st=ok:1
1
send: 14-14-4-0 s=1,c=1,t=16,pt=0,l=1,sg=0,st=ok:1
1
send: 14-14-4-0 s=1,c=1,t=16,pt=0,l=1,sg=0,st=ok:1
1Thanks,
Patrick
@pjblink hi your setup sounds ok to me! And from your debug I think it is transmitting a value. Is this value submitted after activating the pir?
After activation the is high for about 30 sec then it sound be low again. Maybe you can verify this procedure. Can you debug on the receiving side? -
I have build a couple of these and they work fine. Replacing batteries with the baseplate is really a huge advantage, and battery life seems to be pretty good.
I have one issue though: I have built one including an LDR. But this seems to freeze after a random time, no longer reacting to movement.
@dynamite , can you may be share your code and the way you have attached your LDR to the arduino etc?Many thanks!
-
I have build a couple of these and they work fine. Replacing batteries with the baseplate is really a huge advantage, and battery life seems to be pretty good.
I have one issue though: I have built one including an LDR. But this seems to freeze after a random time, no longer reacting to movement.
@dynamite , can you may be share your code and the way you have attached your LDR to the arduino etc?Many thanks!
-
Guys,
This is fantastic. Can someone summarise the best practises for using an Arduino Pro mini, to benefit from maximum battery life and voltage monitoring?
Thank you!
-
Guys,
This is fantastic. Can someone summarise the best practises for using an Arduino Pro mini, to benefit from maximum battery life and voltage monitoring?
Thank you!
@Mark-Swift https://www.mysensors.org/build/battery has information on how to get good battery life
-
I have build a couple of these and they work fine. Replacing batteries with the baseplate is really a huge advantage, and battery life seems to be pretty good.
I have one issue though: I have built one including an LDR. But this seems to freeze after a random time, no longer reacting to movement.
@dynamite , can you may be share your code and the way you have attached your LDR to the arduino etc?Many thanks!
@dynamite , can you may be share your code and the way you have attached your LDR to the arduino etc?
@gijss the code can be found here. But I don't know the actual status of this code as I have not used it for a while and I was busy creating a dimmer. But maybe you can copy parts out of it.
https://github.com/rspaargaren/My-sensors-IKEA/blob/master/multisensor.ino
-
@dynamite , can you may be share your code and the way you have attached your LDR to the arduino etc?
@gijss the code can be found here. But I don't know the actual status of this code as I have not used it for a while and I was busy creating a dimmer. But maybe you can copy parts out of it.
https://github.com/rspaargaren/My-sensors-IKEA/blob/master/multisensor.ino
@dynamite said:
@gijss the code can be found here. But I don't know the actual status of this code as I have not used it for a while and I was busy creating a dimmer. But maybe you can copy parts out of it.
https://github.com/rspaargaren/My-sensors-IKEA/blob/master/multisensor.ino
@dynamite Thanks for the code, I am sure it will prove to be useful. Will try to experiment this weekend. Can you also share how you connected the LDR to the arduino? I have the feeling I might be using a suboptimal wiring scheme (or wrong resistor) resulting in shorter battery life.
-
@Yveaux Did you finish the PCB for the molgan?, If so is it possible for you to share the files?
-
I would be interested too!
-
@Yveaux Did you finish the PCB for the molgan?, If so is it possible for you to share the files?
-
@Cliff-Karlsson Yes, works like a charm!
It has been on my ToDo list for quite a long time to publish the files -- please hold on a little longer ;-) -
@Yveaux Did you finish the PCB for the molgan?, If so is it possible for you to share the files?
@Cliff-Karlsson @LastSamurai @dynamite I just published the PCB on [OpenHardware.io].(https://www.openhardware.io/view/274/Ikea-Molgan-Hack)
A sketch will follow soon.Enjoy!
-
@dynamite said:
@gijss the code can be found here. But I don't know the actual status of this code as I have not used it for a while and I was busy creating a dimmer. But maybe you can copy parts out of it.
https://github.com/rspaargaren/My-sensors-IKEA/blob/master/multisensor.ino
@dynamite Thanks for the code, I am sure it will prove to be useful. Will try to experiment this weekend. Can you also share how you connected the LDR to the arduino? I have the feeling I might be using a suboptimal wiring scheme (or wrong resistor) resulting in shorter battery life.
It has been a while (mainly because the PIR was out of order for other reasons) but now I am restarting the project and again it happened that the PIR no longer responded. So I took a look at your code, but it seems your are using a BH1750 light sensor, is that correct? And are you using that in fact at the moment, or did you switch to LDR and is this perhaps not the latest version of the code?
Thanks!
Gijss
-
It has been a while (mainly because the PIR was out of order for other reasons) but now I am restarting the project and again it happened that the PIR no longer responded. So I took a look at your code, but it seems your are using a BH1750 light sensor, is that correct? And are you using that in fact at the moment, or did you switch to LDR and is this perhaps not the latest version of the code?
Thanks!
Gijss
-
Hi to all,
I've realized my hacked version of the Ikea Molgan but the PIR sensor stays always HIGH.
Everything works apart of this... Do you have any idea howto investigate?could I have broken it?
@ricmail85 hi iT has been a while ago but as far as I recollect I had the same problem with one of my sensors ...
In normal situation the sensors gives a high signal for approx 30 sec.
In the bricked PIR I have replace the pir board by a cheap and modified pir from Ali.
