Multisensor PIR based on IKEA Molgan

[Cliff Karlsson]

Ok, tried placing it in the loop to but with the same result. In the RelayActuator it looks like it really is placed outside the loop: RelayActuator

What would the prefered way be to connect the power to the a 3.3v arduino for the best battery time?

4.5v from the PIR regulator --> Arduino RAW (using 3 batteries)
3v from the PIR regulator --> Arduino VCC (3batteries)

And how would I power it from only 2 batteries? would not the PIR or leds need higher voltage than 3v ?

[Yveaux]

@Cliff-Karlsson see here: https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/3756/multisensor-pir-based-on-ikea-molgan/58

[pjblink]

Hi guys,

I'm struggling with this one unfortunately, i can't get it to trip/untrip.

Sketch is identical to the motion example.

I've removed the photo diode (not bridged the gap, it looks like bridging the gap stops it from tripping at all, leaving it open means it trips whatever the light level is). This was tested without connecting to the arduino, working as normal.

So i've removed resistor 17, and connected my arduino pin 4 up to the chip side of where R17 was. I'm running the main board of the existing power lines, but i've tapped into the + of the middle battery and that's going to VCC on the arduino. Arduino nano GND is connected to the main board -.

Where am I going wrong? I've tried this on two boards now and they're both acting the same. Serial monitor is just showing me:

send: 14-14-4-0 s=1,c=1,t=16,pt=0,l=1,sg=0,st=ok:1
1
send: 14-14-4-0 s=1,c=1,t=16,pt=0,l=1,sg=0,st=ok:1
1
send: 14-14-4-0 s=1,c=1,t=16,pt=0,l=1,sg=0,st=ok:1
1

Thanks,

Patrick

[dynamite]

@pjblink hi your setup sounds ok to me! And from your debug I think it is transmitting a value. Is this value submitted after activating the pir?
After activation the is high for about 30 sec then it sound be low again. Maybe you can verify this procedure. Can you debug on the receiving side?

[gijss]

I have build a couple of these and they work fine. Replacing batteries with the baseplate is really a huge advantage, and battery life seems to be pretty good.

I have one issue though: I have built one including an LDR. But this seems to freeze after a random time, no longer reacting to movement.
@dynamite , can you may be share your code and the way you have attached your LDR to the arduino etc?

Many thanks!

[dynamite]

@gijss Hi I will try to find the code tonight and post it on github.

[Mark Swift]

Guys,

This is fantastic. Can someone summarise the best practises for using an Arduino Pro mini, to benefit from maximum battery life and voltage monitoring?

Thank you!

[mfalkvidd]

@Mark-Swift https://www.mysensors.org/build/battery has information on how to get good battery life

[dynamite]

@dynamite , can you may be share your code and the way you have attached your LDR to the arduino etc?

@gijss the code can be found here. But I don't know the actual status of this code as I have not used it for a while and I was busy creating a dimmer. But maybe you can copy parts out of it.

https://github.com/rspaargaren/My-sensors-IKEA/blob/master/multisensor.ino

[gijss]

@dynamite said:

@gijss the code can be found here. But I don't know the actual status of this code as I have not used it for a while and I was busy creating a dimmer. But maybe you can copy parts out of it.

https://github.com/rspaargaren/My-sensors-IKEA/blob/master/multisensor.ino

@dynamite Thanks for the code, I am sure it will prove to be useful. Will try to experiment this weekend. Can you also share how you connected the LDR to the arduino? I have the feeling I might be using a suboptimal wiring scheme (or wrong resistor) resulting in shorter battery life.

[Cliff Karlsson]

@Yveaux Did you finish the PCB for the molgan?, If so is it possible for you to share the files?

[LastSamurai]

I would be interested too!

[Yveaux]

@Cliff-Karlsson Yes, works like a charm!
It has been on my ToDo list for quite a long time to publish the files -- please hold on a little longer ;-)

[dynamite]

@Yveaux great as my project was on hold for a while but still on the to do list...:-)

[Yveaux]

@Cliff-Karlsson @LastSamurai @dynamite I just published the PCB on [OpenHardware.io].(https://www.openhardware.io/view/274/Ikea-Molgan-Hack)
A sketch will follow soon.

Enjoy!

[gijss]

@dynamite

It has been a while (mainly because the PIR was out of order for other reasons) but now I am restarting the project and again it happened that the PIR no longer responded. So I took a look at your code, but it seems your are using a BH1750 light sensor, is that correct? And are you using that in fact at the moment, or did you switch to LDR and is this perhaps not the latest version of the code?

Thanks!

Gijss

[dynamite]

@gijss Hi let me check upon that as the PIR has not been on the top of my priority list. I have one of the PIR based on LDR sensor. But I was working on a BH1750 sensor. So most probably the code is related to that version.

[ricmail85]

Hi to all,
I've realized my hacked version of the Ikea Molgan but the PIR sensor stays always HIGH.
Everything works apart of this... Do you have any idea howto investigate?

could I have broken it?

[dynamite]

@ricmail85 hi iT has been a while ago but as far as I recollect I had the same problem with one of my sensors ...

In normal situation the sensors gives a high signal for approx 30 sec.

In the bricked PIR I have replace the pir board by a cheap and modified pir from Ali.

[ricmail85]

Ok thanks for your reply. I'll check the board for some weak connection and try again...
bye!