💬 Battery Powered Sensors

[ricorico94]

Thanks for the advice, I'll try that.
For the log on the gateway side : I use a gateway on the raspberry pi itself (as per https://www.mysensors.org/build/raspberry ) of my Domoticz installation. Is there an easy way (like via telnet) to get the logs other than by creating the new line in the config file ? Maybe the 3rd option proposed with "mysgw.pipe" ? (in such case, do I need to reboot whole raspberry after modifying the config file?)

[mfalkvidd]

@ricorico94 follow the instructions at https://www.mysensors.org/build/raspberry#troubleshooting

[ricorico94]

Thanks to another arduino forum, I found what was wrong.. probably indeed a stability of power due to step-up converter. In that forum, they were explaining that receiving is more sensitive to power noise than sending data and that in such case, it's good to add a 100uF capacitor on 3.3V and GRD of radio module. I tried 100uF and it worked.. I then tried with 47uF and it's still working. (I had tried with 0.47uF and it was not working at all)

In the "Connect Radio" guidelines, of Mysensors, it is stated that a capacitor of 0,47-47uF is improving reliability but that "the exact size usually doesn't matter" which was misleading in my case.
Could I suggest to rephrase that sentence into "the exact size usually doesn't matter, but you can try 47uF if 0.47uF still doesn't work, especially if sending data works well and not receiving data." ?

Edit for Erratum: please read 4.7-47uF instead of 0,47uF-47uF. Tests I had made were with 4.7uF as well, not 0.47uF
br,
Ricorico94

[mfalkvidd]

@ricorico94 great input, thanks! I have updated the page, except that I changed 0.47uF to 4.7uF in your text since the recommendation is 4.7 - 47)

[ricorico94]

oups, indeed. I'll edit my post as well to avoid confusion as well. Thank you for your support, I appreciated a lot.
By the way, I could never find how to get the logs in my gateway installed on raspPI. But that's another post. ;-)

[Maschler]

Hello together,

I'm just trying to get the voltage measurement to work. But there is something wrong. I built everything as shown above and uploaded the program to the Arduino pro mini. The only thing I changed is the sensing Pin A0 -> A3
In debug mode I see the following (the supply voltage is constant 3.3V):

Battery Voltage: 3.12 V
Battery percent: 92 %

Battery Voltage: 2.40 V
Battery percent: 71 %

Battery Voltage: 2.32 V
Battery percent: 69 %

Battery Voltage: 2.31 V
Battery percent: 68 %

Battery Voltage: 2.29 V
Battery percent: 68 %

Battery Voltage: 2.30 V
Battery percent: 68 %

Battery Voltage: 2.33 V
Battery percent: 69 %

What could be the reason? That doesn't make sense to me.

[zboblamont]

@maschler You may be picking up noise which will give an unsteady voltage during the ADC sample.
A 0.1uF electrolytic cap between the analogue pin and ground in parallel with the resistor should stabilise it sufficiently.
I use this arrangement with much higher resistances which are known to increase noise, the capacitor maintains a steady voltage sufficient for the ADC sample period.
One thing worth checking with a multimeter is what the actual voltage is on supply and on the pin. The 1.1v bandgap is sometimes not exactly 1.1v, particularly on clones. Once you know the two values you can modify the ratio and you should get reliable and accurate readings.

[gohan]

The 1.1v reference could be + or - 10%, but a small ceramic cap on near the analog pin should help to stabilize the reading. Also taking 3 measures and then sending the average is a good way of minimizing errors

[alowhum]

I'm looking for a USB rechargeable battery that can deal with very low power drain, so that I can power an Arduino Nano. Most power packs will not work with very small currents - they turn themselves off. So ideally it should not be too clever..

Does anybody have a favourite?

[gohan]

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/ESP32-ESP32S-For-Wemos-For-Raspberry-Pi-18650-Battery-Charge-Shield-Board-V3-Micro-USB-Port/32843629344.html

[nekitoss]

It would be great to add to this arctle that if you want to be battery powered outdoors with temperature below zero - you have to use lithium batteries (FR6 for AA) (yes, batteries, not li-ion accumulators!) (for example ultimate lithium energizer, also could be found lithium batteries from other vendors), because Alkaline (LR6 for AA) will be frozen and loose their capacity heavily. If i remember it is >50% at -10 C and death at -20 C. Same problem for li-ion accumulators - when liquid is frozen - electrons are stucked...
Also would be great to add some link about battery/accumulator types, advanteges and disadvantages, but i have no links in english, easy-to-read and in one place...

But i have very great link about battery-powering that really should be added here, but in advanced section:
http://www.gammon.com.au/power

[zboblamont]

@nekitoss Not sure where you got your information but my Gas Node is on it's second year running on the same two Varta AA alkalines and been down to -20 on more than a few occasions last winter, typically 4 months below -10... Currently the temperature is -3 and headed to -8 overnight, voltage is 2.98, will probably need to replace them in autumn 2019...

[benhub]

The tap point could be bypassed with a 0.1 uF capacitor

Can someone explain, how exactly I should connect this capacitor? Should it be between A0 and GND? Would be great to see this capacitor in the graphic.

[zboblamont]

@benhub That rather depends what you are quoting from, as could not find the original statement.
If it is to do with stabilising voltage from a point on a resistor divider to read it on the analogue pin, the capacitor is from the analogue pin to ground.
It's purpose to dampen oscillations long enough for the ADC to sample the voltage, but usually only where high value resistances are used.

[tonbor]

The quote is from this sample : Measuring and Reporting Battery Level

Use a 1MΩ (R1) and 470KΩ (R2) resistor in series, connected to the positive terminal on the battery and ground and then connected the tap point to the A0 input on the CPU.

The tap point could be bypassed with a 0.1 uF capacitor to keep the noise level low, at this otherwise high impedance point.

[skywatch]

@tonbor Yes, the capacitor goes from the analog input to ground.

[mfalkvidd]

@skywatch @tonbor @benhub @zboblamont thanks for your input. I have updated the page. I added the text in bold:

The tap point could be bypassed with a 0.1 uF capacitor (connected in parallel with R2) to keep the noise level low

and updated the image. Please let me know if something is still unclear.

[tonbor]

Perfect!

[Macgyver33]

If you remove the regulator and power with 2xAA batteries, do you only need the TX and RX pins for the FTDI programmer and if so can you use the RX and TX pins on the left side instead of the top FTDI pin connector? Trying to think how to connect the FTDI programmer without connecting to it's VCC and ground when there is no regulator on the pro mini.

[mfalkvidd]

@macgyver33 you need rx, tx and gnd.

The pins on the left side and the ones on the top work the same way, you can use the ones on the left if you prefer.