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  1. Home
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  3. $8 Lamp (Outlet) "Smart Plug" Module

$8 Lamp (Outlet) "Smart Plug" Module

Scheduled Pinned Locked Moved My Project
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  • hekH hek

    Dome Stickers would be nice ;)
    http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Custom-Made-with-Your-design-Clear-Dome-Resin-Sticker-Epoxy-Stickers-Label-1000pcs-free-shipping/1875126113.html?spm=2114.031010208.3.1.zlyb2B

    Just wonder how we should make them cost-effective to buy for the community...

    TheoLT Online
    TheoLT Online
    TheoL
    Contest Winner
    wrote on last edited by
    #85

    @hek they look good to me! Maybe you can start a poll on this forum. Ask the members who would like to buy the stickers. If the majority wants them, we can order them.

    1 Reply Last reply
    0
    • Z Offline
      Z Offline
      Zeph
      Hero Member
      wrote on last edited by
      #86

      The domes are kind of cool for some things, but I think for this purpose I'd actually prefer flat stickers that fit smoothly on any side of a project box, even curved, without protruding and looking like something that should be pressed, or that should light up.

      (OTOH domes atop an illuminated button (assuming translucent backing) would be awesome in some cases)

      And with flat, (re) distribution in small batches is easier - one could get a lot of them in a minimum-postage conventional letter.

      1 Reply Last reply
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      • Kenney RK Offline
        Kenney RK Offline
        Kenney R
        wrote on last edited by
        #87

        Hi Pete,

        I'm thinking of using the AMS1117 3.3v regulator. Can I still use the 0.1uF and 10uF capacitors or do I need to use others. Because I run into sites saying I need to use 100uF and 1000uF and I think the difference is pretty big.

        Regards,

        Kenney

        btw: Great video! It helped me a lot!!

        petewillP 1 Reply Last reply
        0
        • Kenney RK Kenney R

          Hi Pete,

          I'm thinking of using the AMS1117 3.3v regulator. Can I still use the 0.1uF and 10uF capacitors or do I need to use others. Because I run into sites saying I need to use 100uF and 1000uF and I think the difference is pretty big.

          Regards,

          Kenney

          btw: Great video! It helped me a lot!!

          petewillP Offline
          petewillP Offline
          petewill
          Admin
          wrote on last edited by
          #88

          @Kenney-R said:

          I'm thinking of using the AMS1117 3.3v regulator. Can I still use the 0.1uF and 10uF capacitors or do I need to use others.

          Yes, that should be fine. The capacitors are there to help filter the power to the radio (which can be sensitive).

          My "How To" home automation video channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCq_Evyh5PQALx4m4CQuxqkA

          1 Reply Last reply
          0
          • Z Offline
            Z Offline
            Zeph
            Hero Member
            wrote on last edited by
            #89

            Regarding adding wires to the on-PCB antenna of a nRF24L01+ module, here's someone who used two wires (andcut some traces) to create a dipole. He knew that it was hard to really calculate the appropriate values, so he did empirical testing to find the best lengths, using a test program.

            http://www.instructables.com/id/Enhanced-NRF24L01/

            And is this from the same Pete or another one?
            https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NpMnauHeR7Y

            1 Reply Last reply
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            • Z Offline
              Z Offline
              Zeph
              Hero Member
              wrote on last edited by
              #90

              Another interesting (albeit long) video testing range of various modules and antennae.

              https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gtM832Z0ujE

              The interoperability of different types is somewhat surprising. Some had only a 2/3 packet success ratio even at close range, but retained that for a long distance, for example. He did try cap vs no cap, and with "whip" (really more of a stubby or rubber ducky style) antenna parallel or with one pointing at the other. The unit with PA+LNA and shield was overall pretty good for range.

              petewillP 1 Reply Last reply
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              • Z Zeph

                Another interesting (albeit long) video testing range of various modules and antennae.

                https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gtM832Z0ujE

                The interoperability of different types is somewhat surprising. Some had only a 2/3 packet success ratio even at close range, but retained that for a long distance, for example. He did try cap vs no cap, and with "whip" (really more of a stubby or rubber ducky style) antenna parallel or with one pointing at the other. The unit with PA+LNA and shield was overall pretty good for range.

                petewillP Offline
                petewillP Offline
                petewill
                Admin
                wrote on last edited by
                #91

                @Zeph thanks for sharing. Always better to have more info and hopefully better range!

                My "How To" home automation video channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCq_Evyh5PQALx4m4CQuxqkA

                1 Reply Last reply
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                • sundberg84S sundberg84

                  @petewill
                  Now i got three working relays thanks to you, so again, great video!
                  Wanted to thank you and also show my sollution.
                  I hade some 433mhz cheap (not good working) relays with perfect case i could re-use:
                  The case had a status-led and a switch i use as well.

                  Relay.jpg

                  D Offline
                  D Offline
                  dayve218
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #92

                  @sundberg84 how are you powering the arduino?

                  1 Reply Last reply
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                  • sundberg84S Offline
                    sundberg84S Offline
                    sundberg84
                    Hardware Contributor
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #93

                    @dayve218
                    Im using a USB charger as pete does in the video but mine is a iphone charger instead of a samsung.

                    Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
                    MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
                    MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
                    RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

                    1 Reply Last reply
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                    • D Offline
                      D Offline
                      dakipro
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #94

                      Nice project, both Petewill and sundberg84.
                      I was just wandering if you @sundberg84 know more about what is the device type/model/manufacturer you were moding?

                      I've used quite some time and effort to find localy some good case that I can modify, I did manage to hack some of them but they are just not quite reliable (something with power just kills caps too often).

                      Thanks in advance, sorry for bringing up old topic (but it is a very good one :) )

                      C: OpenHAB2 with node-red on linux laptop
                      GW: Arduino Nano - W5100 Ethernet, Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz mqtt
                      GW: Arduino Mega, RFLink 433Mhz

                      1 Reply Last reply
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                      • sundberg84S Offline
                        sundberg84S Offline
                        sundberg84
                        Hardware Contributor
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #95

                        @dakipro - Its a low brand 433mhz wall plugs i bought in Sweden called Everflourish emw100r. I dont think they are sold anymore. Its probably some china brand so maybe they are sold in another name.

                        Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
                        MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
                        MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
                        RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

                        1 Reply Last reply
                        0
                        • dbemowskD Offline
                          dbemowskD Offline
                          dbemowsk
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #96

                          So I have been thinking of building some relay controlled power strip nodes similar to these, but there have been some issues that I have been thinking about. The first is that if I am going to use a relay to turn on an outlet, the relay would need to be powered the entire time that I would want that device on. This would mean that not only am I powering the device that is plugged in, but the power to keep the relay on also. Wouldn't it be smarter to use latching relays? At least with those you don't need to keep power to the relay while your outlet is on. Has anyone ever done a MySensors node with latching relays? If so, how do you manage monitoring the state of the device?

                          Vera Plus running UI7 with MySensors, Sonoffs and 1-Wire devices
                          Visit my website for more Bits, Bytes and Ramblings from me: http://dan.bemowski.info/

                          1 Reply Last reply
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                          • D Offline
                            D Offline
                            dakipro
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #97

                            out of the curiosity, what is downside of powering the relay entire time?
                            that is how (all) wall switches work out of the box, you press the button and they turn on/off by powering the relay (all the time).
                            I think that they work quite reliably when it comes to keeping power to the reley

                            C: OpenHAB2 with node-red on linux laptop
                            GW: Arduino Nano - W5100 Ethernet, Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz mqtt
                            GW: Arduino Mega, RFLink 433Mhz

                            dbemowskD 1 Reply Last reply
                            0
                            • D dakipro

                              out of the curiosity, what is downside of powering the relay entire time?
                              that is how (all) wall switches work out of the box, you press the button and they turn on/off by powering the relay (all the time).
                              I think that they work quite reliably when it comes to keeping power to the reley

                              dbemowskD Offline
                              dbemowskD Offline
                              dbemowsk
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #98

                              @dakipro I wouldn't say that ALL wall switches work that way. And when you say (all) wall switches, what are you referring to? Standard (non automated) wall switches don't use relays. Also, most if not all of the X10 relay modules and wall switches that I have use latching relays.

                              Vera Plus running UI7 with MySensors, Sonoffs and 1-Wire devices
                              Visit my website for more Bits, Bytes and Ramblings from me: http://dan.bemowski.info/

                              1 Reply Last reply
                              0
                              • D Offline
                                D Offline
                                dakipro
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #99

                                I meant these typical automated/controlled wall switches mentioned in the topic http://www.nexa.se/vara-produkter/system-nexa/mottagare-paav/eycr-2300
                                I opened 6-7 different ones to find the right casing for some projects, and they all had "regular" relay that goes back when the power is off (thus being powered the whole time). Of course I didn't open every single one of them, that is why I put (all) in parentheses.
                                I am also not the expert on the relay topic, that is why I asked what is the downside :)

                                C: OpenHAB2 with node-red on linux laptop
                                GW: Arduino Nano - W5100 Ethernet, Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz mqtt
                                GW: Arduino Mega, RFLink 433Mhz

                                1 Reply Last reply
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                                • petewillP petewill

                                  Hi All,

                                  I created a second "Smart Plug" and thought I'd make a how to video this time. I have found them very useful for controlling various devices around the house. It's long but hopefully will be good for everyone including those not too familiar with MySensors. I know when I was first starting out I had little to no experience with any of this stuff and it was hard to piece it all together.

                                  http://youtu.be/oNpMDN4QqD8

                                  Here is the parts list (most of this stuff can be obtained from the my sensors store so don't forget to support them!)

                                  • 1 Gang Outlet Box
                                  • Outlet
                                  • Computer power cord or extension cord
                                  • Old cell phone charger or some other 5v power supply
                                  • Items from MySensors Store http://www.mysensors.org/store/
                                  • 22-24 gauge wire or similar (network cord)
                                  • Female Pin Header Connector Strip
                                  • Prototype Universal Printed Circuit Board
                                  • NRF24L01 Radio
                                  • Arduino Pro Mini
                                  • Capacitors (10uf and .1uf)
                                  • 3.3v voltage regulator
                                  • Female Dupont cables

                                  Here is a wiring diagram for the 3.3v regulator:
                                  Voltage Regulator Schematic.png

                                  0_1467849909161_Fritzing Smart Outlet.png

                                  Here is the code I used. I made a few customizations but the example "Relay Actuator" code can be used as well.
                                  https://codebender.cc/sketch:72358

                                  *edited to add wiring diagram

                                  Christian TollasC Offline
                                  Christian TollasC Offline
                                  Christian Tollas
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #100

                                  @petewill greetings sir.. Im getting error in your source code.. Maybe imported a wrong library.. Sir can i ask where did u get your MySensors.h library.. I get mine in codebender..

                                  My error is..

                                  MySensor gw;

                                  MySensor does not a nametype

                                  petewillP 1 Reply Last reply
                                  0
                                  • Christian TollasC Christian Tollas

                                    @petewill greetings sir.. Im getting error in your source code.. Maybe imported a wrong library.. Sir can i ask where did u get your MySensors.h library.. I get mine in codebender..

                                    My error is..

                                    MySensor gw;

                                    MySensor does not a nametype

                                    petewillP Offline
                                    petewillP Offline
                                    petewill
                                    Admin
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #101

                                    @Christian-Tollas This code has not yet been updated for MySensors version 2.0. I am still on version 1.5. When I finally upgrade my setup to 2.0 I will post the updated code but I'm not sure when that will be. If you want to go back to 1.5 for the time being that should work for you.

                                    My "How To" home automation video channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCq_Evyh5PQALx4m4CQuxqkA

                                    1 Reply Last reply
                                    0
                                    • D Offline
                                      D Offline
                                      dseveriano
                                      wrote on last edited by dseveriano
                                      #102

                                      Hello,

                                      I'm newbie at this and I'm trying to make this, but I think my hardware needs to be different sinces my home voltage is arround 220V, does this hardware can handle this voltage or do I need to buy other capacitators ?

                                      Thanks

                                      petewillP 1 Reply Last reply
                                      0
                                      • D dseveriano

                                        Hello,

                                        I'm newbie at this and I'm trying to make this, but I think my hardware needs to be different sinces my home voltage is arround 220V, does this hardware can handle this voltage or do I need to buy other capacitators ?

                                        Thanks

                                        petewillP Offline
                                        petewillP Offline
                                        petewill
                                        Admin
                                        wrote on last edited by
                                        #103

                                        @dseveriano as always you need to be very careful when using these voltages. That being said, this should work without any other hardware except for a phone charger rated for 220 (which I believe most are). The relay I used was rated for 10A 250VAC. I wouldn't go as high as 10A though.

                                        My "How To" home automation video channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCq_Evyh5PQALx4m4CQuxqkA

                                        D 1 Reply Last reply
                                        0
                                        • petewillP petewill

                                          @dseveriano as always you need to be very careful when using these voltages. That being said, this should work without any other hardware except for a phone charger rated for 220 (which I believe most are). The relay I used was rated for 10A 250VAC. I wouldn't go as high as 10A though.

                                          D Offline
                                          D Offline
                                          dseveriano
                                          wrote on last edited by
                                          #104

                                          @petewill Thank you, just one more question!
                                          What board is that, the red one where the relay is ? Is that necessary or can I put the relay in the same board ?

                                          petewillP 1 Reply Last reply
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