Just a warning upfront - I'm an engineer, but not an RF engineer, so I do see some things, but I'm almost guaranteed to miss others.

As far as your highlighted line, it is a trace, but not a via. A via connects the trace on one plane of copper with a trace on another plane.

That trace should really be as short and direct as possible. Wrapping around the back of the module and along other signal lines is not a good idea. I see that the closest line to it is 3.3V power, so that acts basically as ground for small signal, but any power spike is bound to couple into the antenna line as well, at least some. If possible, it would be best to have ground on both sides of the antenna trace on that side of the board, as well as the whole surface on the other side of the board from it. Might also want to guard it by having vias connect the ground planes on either side of it to make kind of a 3d cage around it.

Additionally, you should try for 50 ohm trace impedance on the antenna line. However, there is no one-size-fits-all answer for the width of this line. It depends on the exact board parameters, and even to a small amount on the frequency of the signal. There are trace width impedance calculators that you can use to get this answer. https://resources.pcb.cadence.com/blog/2019-just-how-wide-should-a-pcb-50-ohm-trace-width-be

Almost guaranteed that it's correct to ground those 4 outer pins of the antenna connector. View the datasheet of the specific connector you are using to be 100% sure.

I have a Nortek GoControl USBZB-1 zwave/zigbee hub. I've been very happy with it. I've mostly used cheap devices with it, and only maybe 2 more mainstream things, like a Philips light. Other than lights, I think I only have a bunch of these plugs around: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B08L3K5KPB

Anything branded Zigbee is supposed to be certified to work with any Zigbee network, but I have no idea what the big names do on top of the protocol. I've also never used a name-brand bridge device, so I've never really looked into what it might need. Home Assistant knows that it's a Philips light connected to it, but that's because it asks the devices for their info, and things like brand and serial id get returned to it. Probably other stuff - it's been a while since I looked. Anyway, even though it knows all that about the light, it's just using the basic Zigbee driver for it through the USBZB-1 gateway, and it has full control and it all works fine. I'm pretty sure it's not sending out custom Philips commands to the light, but just standard stuff.

Hope that helped a little!

@NeverDie Yeah, but when I priced out domestic places, they all wanted enough that the client just decided to go a different way. This was only going to be for a prototype, but even so, I got prices ranging from I think $10-50 per pin holder, and it was less than 2 grams of plastic each. I just checked again, and JLCPCB would do them for $1 each, and then $20 for quick shipping, and as low as $4 for the slow boat that takes a month. None of those options were very appealing at the time.

Digikey wants $13.66 each for this when I pick qty 10, so still not worth it for this project. Shipping with them is free, but I have no idea how quick they would be.

I also checked PCBWay, just for fun, and they quoted 1.24 at qty 10, for $12.45 total. Interestingly, the quote for 1 was $12.45 also. They wouldn't show an estimate for shipping without clicking the 'Submit' button and having a human engineer review the file for printability. Since I'm not actually going to do this now, I don't want to waste their time, so I don't have a total price from them for comparison.

As far as OP, this is a very old thread from 3.5 years ago, so I doubt that they still need help.

Yes on the flyback diodes.

However, the upper transistors look like they're NPN, not PNP. The lower transistor would be PNP.

Otherwise, it looks like it would work, as long as all of the transistors are sized correctly for the current on the relay coils.

But I would be really hesitant to try to control that kind of power with an arduino. What happens if your code has an error and locks up? What if you have the magnetron running but not one of the heaters? I don't have answers, as I don't understand the working of them that well, but code errors running a high voltage radiator device like that make me a bit nervous.

I like being able to turn on the microwave and then ignore it and do other things while it's running, but it would take me a lot of watching it before I would feel comfortable with something like this.

On the other side, you're only controlling 3 relays, and it's not a nuclear reactor or anything, so I'm likely being overly cautious. But I am an engineer, and worrying about "what-if" is kind of my job, so I lean that way anyway...

I think your numbers look good. Nice job getting the trace much shorter - that should help a bunch.

@NeverDie said in Which vector network analyzer should we buy?:

It said version 2 was due in January.

It looks to me like it's available now. After where it mentions the 2.0, there's a link where it says 'authorized dealer.'

That link goes here: https://www.tindie.com/products/hcxqsgroup/nanovna-v2/

And it says you can buy it now for a little under $60 US.

I don't know anything else about it, but I'm also considering getting one, now that I've read about it in this thread. I like the idea.

I wouldn't even bother with an Arduino/microcontroller at all for this. Just some diodes on each circuit and maybe some transistors for powering the large LED strips, or could also use tiny relays.

But I don't see where it has anything nearly complicated enough to have code running on a chip to run anything on it. @itjobhunter if this is not helpful and you need more specific details and/or a quick napkin sketch I can throw something together to show what I'm trying to say.

At least here where I am - West coast of US - they're allowed +/- 10% and still be counted as within spec. So those numbers are fine.

The thing is, they have voltage transformers with multiple contacts inside, and they will step the voltage up or down on the neighborhood feeders as necessary to account for varying voltages on the higher voltage lines. Actually, I think the switching happens going from high to medium voltage, and there aren't really that many of the switching transformers in the system. All of your local transformers for the houses wouldn't have them - that would be far too spendy. They do it on a large scale.

But as the residential power demands change over the day, they use the switchers to keep everything balanced. They could keep the voltage variance smaller, but at the cost of more frequent switching, and every switch of the contacts creates some wear, so more maintenance eventually. Every switch also creates some ripples in the rest of the system, I'm pretty sure. But those are probably pretty minor - it's a very stiff system. Also having higher resolution on the switchers would be more complicated and have more parts/windings inside every one of them. They keep the frequency very tightly regulated, but allow the voltage to float a bit. The frequency variances they have to make up for throughout the day so that over the course of a whole day there's practically no net change at all. (For the sake of clocks that literally count cycles and therefore don't need a crystal.)

Actually, allowing the voltage to vary also has another nice benefit to the system - it allows for a natural damping of disturbances. When the voltage dips a bit because of increased demand, the power used by many resistive appliances will also dip, so that can help the system in recovering as potentially more generation is brought online. I don't think something like AC that has a spinning motor helps much, as the frequency won't vary much.

Sorry if you're aware of most of this. I worked for the power company for a while, though that has been some years ago now.

@kasparsd Yes, this is a very disheartening thing to see.

I would rather not have to maintain a local version with some of the fixes that I see talked about on the forums, but since there's no movement on the code, at least from looking at github, I'm left with doing a bunch of it myself if I want to incorporate the changes.

Especially bad when the changes are in a pull request and just languishing there. It's discouraging when I want to go work on something but I need to deal with the core mysensors code before I can even get to that step.

I mean, I'll deal with it cause I still appreciate mysensors and find it a net benefit, but I can certainly understand why some people either give up on it or maybe never pick it up in the first place, seeing stuff like that.

@NeverDie As far as when the shortage ends, ??? I've seen estimates different times that it's "right around the corner" but nothing that was very convincing to me. Intel just this week or last came out and said that they think it's going to be better soon. NVidia chips/cards are getting to be more available. And random different chips have re-appeared, so maybe they're right this time? I wouldn't bet on it, though. There are still tons of parts that are hard or impossible to get in any quantity. I'm no insider, though. I shop at Digikey, Mouser, etc. same as you. Just maybe more often and a bit higher qty sometimes.

I actually have some of the Attiny3226 here to play with. When they came into stock, I bought a small bag of them. I haven't yet had a chance to do anything with them, though. I do see power consumption tables. pg 477-478 of the datasheet. https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/268/ATtiny3224_3226_3227_Data_Sheet_DS40002345B-2887812.pdf Numbers seem pretty reasonable, for a claimed 'low power' family of chips.

Are you still able to use the same analog phone plugged into the back of your modem? If so then it has to still use the same protocol, and I don't understand why the analog beacon wouldn't still work. It would just have to be on that same wire, not on the internet side of the modem. The modem is doing all of the translation in that case.

Or am I missing something? Did you have to get a new phone to use the new service?

Oh, I never even thought of that as a possibility.

I really like KiCad, and it's my preference. For a while I had Eagle for work, but even then I still preferred KiCad whenever I was given a choice.

@TheoL Did you not check the openhardware site link? There it has the KiCad schematic and board files. In the schematic the individual symbols mostly have pdf datasheets. I see a passive without one, but that would be easy to figure out.

So it looks to me like everything is there that you need to make your own boards. I wouldn't hesitate if I wanted to make one myself.

Unless you were asking something else? But the design source files are there.

Seems that search has been broken for quite a while. I've given up on it. (Maybe it was actually off and on, but I just had bad luck?) I just use google or duckduckgo or whatever, and then tell it to search just this site. Works great.

https://www.google.com/search?q=site%3Amysensors.org+sensors

If you look at those two sketches, in the setup() function, they both claim to set it up to use the internal pullup on pin 3. However, they do it differently. That's the first place I would look. Try replacing the non-working one with the same code from the working one.

@monics To know whether the controller was online and working, you could do something simple like request a variable from it, or just check on/request the time every so often. If it responds then things are good, and if it times out then you've got a problem and you can act on it.

@GaryStofer Okay, then sounds like you're doing what I would.

Are you able to turn on debug and connect serial to it to troubleshoot that way? Without getting more info on it, I'm out of ideas at the moment.

@GaryStofer Every time it starts up? That really removes the usefulness of using EEPROM in the first place.

Maybe you're having problems getting a response to the assignment of a child ID, and until it gets that it doesn't work???

@GaryStofer Did you erase the EEPROM? Maybe they stored the child ID number, and since it's a brand new network, they don't connect to it until some kind of timeout when they give up on the old ID? These are just guesses, and not based on any kind of deep familiarity with the code.

I just know that the ID would be stored for quicker connections on the next times it connects to the system, so that would make sense with what you describe.

I don't have a good answer, but since it's still a multiple of 5, I would assume that it's simply missing the other packets, and your sensor really is waking up and attempting? Maybe set it to require a response from the gateway before going back to sleep?

Just a guess.