Posts made by MasterCATZ

@waspie

https://robu.in/wp-content/uploads/2020/09/Pir-BM612.pdf

planning on switching over to these as well

sensitivity setting and better times

all good at least I can steal your sensor hole placements and can stumble along modding in KiCAD

tho unsure why the board size is smaller when I converted it it seems to trim along where the cover's holes are and not leaving any meat behind

did you come across any other sensors better than this for the price?

Or a 12x DIP switch and a Jumper

Jumper for the shortest and longest Time settings
Then pads for installing the 12 Resistors for Time in Seconds the LED / Relay etc is activated for ?

also, how were you mounting these boards with no screw holes? just something for the lens cover to clip into

Thanks for the breakout board, but would it be too much to ask for a revision that can have potentiometers mounted?
so resistors do not need to be changed when tinkering with 15x settings? either SMD or Through-Hole Trimmer

0-300k None?,0-1M

as I now have my one-wire network running for my temperature probes

I am now wanting to control some heaters and fans, is there anything I can use with domoticz that uses the one-wire system?

http://www.datasheetspdf.com/PDF/SSR-40DA/789332/3

ideally looking to control this relay something 3-5v DC driven from 1-wire setup for 240v AC switching for backup heaters for when there is a quick drop in temperature, just unsure what I should be looking for to control it

I believe DS2408 8-channel, programmable I/O 1-Wire chip is a possibility that is quite common but only needs to control one or two device's at each location, are there any single channel possibilities? DS2406 / DS2413 ? ideally, a pre built module that I can add my own relay? a lot of the pre built relays are quite low on the AMP

ideally something like this
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/5V-1-Channel-Relay-Module-Shield-for-Arduino-Uno-Meage-2560-1280-ARM-PIC-AVR-DSP-/232380878471?epid=707943971&hash=item361aface87:g:Ou4AAOSwVJhZSgJH

but for 1-wire network like this would work

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1-Wire-8-Channel-Relay-Module-Board-based-on-Dallas-DS2408-chipset-/181253848913?var=&epid=534808210&hash=item2a33923f51mGakh0Ev_T_fzzBfM6Se18g

but why pay for 7 relays that will never be used

@wallyllama thanks that is what I feared, and would have made the job a lot easier
how ever I was thinking about doing it the other way to keep the other probes already made backward compatible as they used pins 1-4

just trying to weigh up the pro's and cons
also out of all those 3 way splitters only 15x actually have all pins functional ...

so trying to think of a way to still use the dodgy ones by having redundancy's in place

I think the way the PSU is wired up at the moment is the correct way
things don't seem to be stressed out this time

I am also raising my polling times as I think I read somewhere it takes the sensors 750ms to perform a function and uses 1.5 mA each?

Sensor Poll Period: 1000 to 30000
Switch Poll Period: 100 to 1000

my way of thinking this should still have all 60 sensors read in 1 min?
60 sec / 1000ms for Switch Poll period?

edit kept my original pin out just doubling up instead of having in/out

I will just change the colors to make it easier to put into the jacks
with out doing A / B standard Ethernet wiring

Pin 1 (White/Green) - Power return or ground
Pin 2 (Green) - +5V
Pin 3 (White/Blue) - Power return or ground
Pin 4 (Blue) - DQ (data in)

Pin 5 (White/Orange) - 1-Wire return or ground
Pin 6 (Orange) - +5V
Pin 7 (White/Brown) Power return or ground
Pin 8 (Brown) - DQ (data out)

this way a ground will be on every twisted pair
voltage is higher now

and now that I just soldered everything up, I notice I don't even need the pull-up because I am using external PSU anyhow
I knew I should have put in a bypass switch

anyone know the correct way I should be using an external power source

I powered them up directly with + - still running to the pi and blew the external 2a 5v power pack ( it also powered up the pi and I believe back-feeding this way removes surge protection )

then I tried with the GND and DQ connected with the pi doing the pull up , external PSU ( 30A rated 5v rail 450w 3.3v 12v 5v ) looked like it was shorting out dropping .2v per probe and changing sound as tho it was under load how ever I am currently using its 3A port

I then tried with just the DQ connected not much luck

then I moved the bread board over the PSU and had the 4.7k pull up on its end and DQ / GND connected to the pi , I seem to have some connections, but getting a lot of unknown vendor type errors
but PSU does not seem to be under load

http://datasheets.maximintegrated.com/en/ds/DS2482-100.pdf
I might get one of these I2C one wire bridge that can adjust the strength of the pull-up dynamically as the network grows

http://videos.cctvcamerapros.com/voltage-drop-calculator

has got me thinking I might double up on the strands 24 gauge has too much voltage drop @ 5v

should I just treat each pair as a wire or should I have ground on each twist ?

ie
( p1,p2 GND) Green pair
( p3,p4 VCC ) Blue pair
(p5.p6 DQ ) Orange pair
( p6,p7 GND ) Brown pair

or
(p1 ground p2 VCC ) Green pair
(p3,ground p4 VCC ) Blue pair
(p5,ground,p6 DQ ) Orange pair
(p7,ground,p8 DQ ) Brown pair

or any other combo, I would rather use a 2amp PSU than a 30 amp .. but thats so far the only way to keep these things powered up in a daisy chain

https://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/threads/24-gauge-wire-if-you-double-up-strands-what-equivalence-gauge.108649/

might be best to NOT buy the ones I got , just discovered 1x port of just about all of them was not working correctly
( pins on slight angle off setting alignment )

causing the probes to be in parasitic mode

@zboblamont I will be able to test the lengths today, making another 20x temperature sockets and I have a heap of 20m cat5 cables to chain from

I am using a trim pot to adjust at the breadboard, so far still 4.7

if I was going to do it again would use a 5 or 10k high precision the 5% pot too dodgy

still yet to use resistors on each drop and I have a 10v 1000uf capacitor on each ground / vcc, no idea if it helps or not

you could also run a 100mbs LAN plus temp probes each using 4x of the 8 cat5 pins

http://www.108relays.ca/dl/1_Wire_Design_Guide_v1.0.pdf

edit

it looks like you have to keep the lengths and probe numbers equal if your splitting them off like a tree

if I had 1 side 6m longer with more probes than the other side a probe read 0 deg

added more probes on the other side and they read fine again
( touch wood )

I have placed a probe at the end with no capacitor, can not get it to connect

when I make more probes tomorrow will try that spot again with a capacitor

for now will try the one with out capacitor at the first split near the pi to see what happens, it's pitch black now time for bed

strange thing just tried another stock probe with no capacitor and can not get that to work either and I was running these ones inside all day
for some reason voltmeter reads neg millivolts

now I just want to build another cap probe to see whats going on

edit , either I wired something backwards or maybe i just hit the limits adjusting trim pot now as even the DS18B20 on the bread board stopped responding

edit, somethings not right pulled the main link and its receiving 0 deg from sensors not even plugged in.

new probe and bread board temps working tho

set @ 4k , tried adding another probe at 1st split all died again,
I'd say at my limits without the 100~150 resistors trying to push 6x 20m cables
voltage still 4+

but I am sus as to why a probe felt warm where a cap was done, unsure if it was still from the soldering heat or not so I might have something miss wired as I was running as the day light was dropping fast
( this setup is for monitoring tanks in my polytunnels no lights apart from the flash light in my mouth )

the goal was 3 x 20m on each side split at the breadboard with ~5m long branches running of each join with 2x probes about every 1 m with 1m long lengths approx 60x DS18B20 and about 210m of cable

unfortunately, I was 1 section short the 5th section would not work
so 50 probes 175m cable

I'll try again in a daisy chain formation later on

currently using raspberry pi 2 B and domoticz

I ended up doing rj45 as they worked out cheaper than the rj11/14
I paid $20 for 100 , also why I did not add the capacitor inside like I was going to so they could be used in other areas for LAN, hopefully, no one tries to plug a laptop into them

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CS-5X-US-10x-Practical-3-Way-RJ45-LAN-Network-Ethernet-Splitter-Connector-Beige/201963874318

thanks for your guidance
parts arrived yesterday and just got the probes reading

how ever I could not get OWFS to work,
https://www.domoticz.com/wiki/1Wire

sudo i2cdetect -y 1
0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 a b c d e f
00: -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- --
10: -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- --
20: -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- --
30: -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- --
40: -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- --
50: -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- --
60: -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- --
70: -- -- -- -- -- -- -- --

but using /sys/bus/w1/devices
they are there

cat w1_slave
a2 01 4b 46 7f ff 0c 10 49 : crc=49 YES
a2 01 4b 46 7f ff 0c 10 49 t=26125

edit

actually quite happy, using 5v and daisy chained a heap of cat5 cables together for testing, over 100m all working good

looking good

I need to beef up my solar panels

I get 1 week before the low battery indicator switches on and I loose half my distance

instead of using 2x AA 1.5v batteries ( or 1.2v rechargeables )

I am just going to run 18650 cells and use a 4v solar panel

another thing does anyone know if putting capacitors in the daisy chain will cause any issues?

I figured haveing a capacitor near a sensor would help keep the power stable?

so what I think I will do is

use a trimpot at the start so resistance can be adjusted as sensors/length are altered

cat5 wiring

Dry end has 2x rj11 ends
*example
rj11 (in) pins 1,2,3,4
rj11 (out) pins 5,6,7,8

Pin 1 (White/Green) - Power return or ground
Pin 2 (Green) - +5V
Pin 3 (White/Orange) - Power return or ground
Pin 4 (Blue) - DQ (data in)

Pin 5 (White/Blue) - 1-Wire return or ground
Pin 6 (Orange) - +5V
Pin 7 (White/Brown) Power return or ground
Pin 8 (Brown) - DQ (data out)

all wires join onto the DS18B20 and waterproofed

then up at the dry end use rj11 joiners, they can be pulled apart and have resistors added if needed and if I need to take a sensor out of the daisy chain, it is just a matter of bypassing a joiner

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/RJ11-6P4C-Female-Modular-Telephone-Cable-Wire-Straight-Coupler-Joiner-White-/111725356245?hash=item1a0359a4d5:g:miQAAOSwWxNY2l0I

or I just do the STUBS thing 100-150Ω resistor inside a 3 way splitter and have a normal premade waterproofed sensor used with rj11 connector

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10pcs-RJ-11-RJ-14-Phone-Line-Cable-Coupler-3-Way-Splitter-Connector-Adapter-/290986642163?hash=item43c027caf3:g:LD4AAOxySy9SRSLm

either should work in the fish room tanks are on racks stacked to each other

so how would I go about doing a 1-wire breakout, as each rack would be pushing the length and I have 14x racks ~3m long 4 tiers
I might be possible to do the daisy chain per 2 racks
is their a way to do it without using multiple Arduino , is there some hardware that would allow multiple runs of 1-wire ?

looks like I will have to make my own sensors that Daisy chain directly off the sensor

https://edwardmallon.wordpress.com/2015/03/01/using-ds18b20-sensors-to-make-a-diy-thermistor-string-pt-1-the-build/

RFM69 does look promising even if
I have to power it

Ok that's what I wanted to know as I did read here
http://www.jon00.me.uk/onewireintro.shtml
50mm was as long as you could go

however, how does that work if the probe wire is long?

would I be better off making my own probe's with 6 wires with
In / Out ? that then links to the next part of the daisy chain ?

darn you beat me before the edit

http://www.hw-group.com/products/sensors/Temp-1Wire_en.html

has got me thinking about telephone hubs

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1pc-RJ11-Jack-5-Ways-Outlet-Phone-Modular-Line-Adapter-Splitter-Connector-/311408926547?hash=item48816b1f53:g:iVsAAOSwyQtVrK8u

what is your recommendation for the wireless hardware

"Serial WiFi Module ESP8266 module ESP01"

are what I have tried in the past with poor results

I have been thinking I could make a wireless module, disconnect the sensor from 1 wire and I could plug the probes into wifi when I need to?

how do I go about Daisy chaining the probes
are there any simple splice crimp connector out their?
( might use telephone cables or ribbon cables as I don't think I should use RJ45 just incase someone mistakes as a LAN port )

I did come across this

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DS18B20-Waterproof-Digital-Temperature-Sensor-With-Adapter-Module-for-Arduino-WS-/182526807558?hash=item2a7f720e06:g:lW4AAOSw-itXp~d7

but to me, it just looks like its purpose is just to add the pull-down resistor?

does every probe need the resistor or is only 1x needed?
also any probes for PH that work using 1-wire? or water level sensor?

No metal pumps around here everything is air operated and plastic pipes

it's only the 20kl tanks that have 6m depths, the others have 3m deep sumps
( pretty much the further down into the ground the more stable the temperatures so I run far amount of plumbing deep underground, that and I use airlift pumping techniques )

It is mostly the 200L breeding tanks I want to do
they are only 46cm deep
and contain the Tropical Fish I am trying to keep tabs on
all pretty close to each other on racked shelves

I am just unsure if my wireless issues are from all the water around here or not , ages ago I was looking into XBee, but that was about as far as that got

the building is only wooden frame with plastic cladding with multiwall polycarbonate. I don't see that affecting wireless, however my Fitzbox NBN Modem is always complaining about radar jamming signal's, so it could just be the military base that is not to far away

looked into "reliable 1-wire networks" it seems most users had problems over 30m but it does seem it can do the distance of 100m if cat5 is used, I may as well use the cat6 I have here

I will have to go back through my browser history I had found a probe that was around 10+m long that was waterproof

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10-Waterproof-DS18B20-Temperature-Temp-Sensor-Digital-Thermal-Probe-1M-AU-Stock-/182488631263?_trksid=p2385738.m2548.l4275

does seem quite cheap however

strange now all I see are the DS18B20 but at least i know they make 15m long probes

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Waterproof-Temperature-Temp-Sensor-Thermal-Probe-Thermometer-DS18B20-3-Wires-/131703940047?var=&hash=item1eaa2aa3cfmZPEGGFSoBX79XQ4RR57Mog

very interesting and another Aussie, QLDer here

thanks for this
one of my cups on my anemometer is broken might be able to tweak that file instead of starting from scratch now

Thanks for the replies
didn't think I mentioned how many tanks
but while we are at it
3x 20kl tanks ( all grouped together about 50m away from others )
50x 1kl tanks ( only 14x row being monitored at this stage )
112x 200L tanks ( 12mx6m fish room )
excluding sumps/biofilters etc

most tanks outside are within 10m of the fish room

having wireless just means having to find a way to power the devices
( been there tried that with solar powered ones pre made. nothing but unreliable)

and a broken wire is easier to diagnose for faults

I just don't seem to have any luck with wireless I have ones here rated for 100 - 300m yet lucky to get 10m out of them

sensors accuracy not so critical just need to be waterproof and handle 6m deep submersion, what I am mostly wanting to work out is if tanks are going to do better inside a greenhouse or not

and wanting to trial other ways of using heat exchangers
( ie the old black coiled up polly pipe trick )
to lower heating power usage

I am needing to data log water temp multiple fish tanks plus air temp

I had bought multiple wireless weather station devices that were meant to work 100m range but only work 6m range

Ideally, i would like the probes hard wired with the Arduino data beeing collected wirelessly

if anyone could direct me to parts/guide needed for a setup that could be scalable it would be greatly appreciated

for now, I need to compare temperatures of tanks within 10m of each other

it looks like its down to

domoticz vs home assistant vs openhab