Posts made by Sefi Ninio

Hey @yury , thanks for the reply!
The pictures were very helpful

Does this board come flashed with the alternate bootloader that supports OTA updates?

Hello friends,

Reading the instructions for building a RaspberryPi Gateway using RFM69, it states that one should use the development branch and not master, since the Pi is using a different version of the driver.

Anyone knows when this will be merged to master branch?

Also, since this forces all nodes to use development branch as well to be able to communicate with the gateway, assuming I use the development branch now and it is later on merged into master, is there an easy way to upgrade nodes remotely to the new code?

I am planning to use Wall Switch Insertable Node, and Mini Relay Mode - Both support OTA updates, am I correct to assume this will allow upgrading without taking the nodes out of where they are located?

Thanks!
Sefi

@gohan said in Mini Relay Box:

@Sefi-Ninio for that case it could be an idea to have a second pcb design with nrf24 smd footprint, it should be too difficult. Otherwise it will be a good chance to start using the rfm69, that is not a bad idea

Yes, rmf69 is great. Though most gateway instructions are for the nrf, and me being the newbie I am, I need clear instructions

@Sefi-Ninio said in Mini Relay Box:

@Koresh ,@yury
Will you also make a nrf version like you did with the wall insertable switch node?

Thanks,
Sefi

Or maybe we should use the nrf2rfm69 board you are creating?

@Koresh ,@yury
Will you also make a nrf version like you did with the wall insertable switch node?

Thanks,
Sefi

Hello @yury and @Koresh ,

I am not sure how to connect the switch in the wall to this board.
My house has Gewiss switches, but J1-J4 expects 2 wires - so I am not sure how they connect... Can you help?

Thanks!

This looks great! Thanks a lot @dbemowsk !

Hi @hek ,

thanks for your answer. Unfortunately, this will not work for this application...

Will that work as a weight sensor?
Couldn't understand from the description nor could I find the data sheet...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/new-hx711-load-cell-weight-pressure-sensor-module-for-arduino-uno-mega2560/131778364781?hash=item1eae9a456d

@Yveaux Perfect, thanks!

Hi!

Say I want to create a node that turns everything off when I fall asleep.
One option would be to use a heart rate / pulse sensor and when it goes below a certain amount, run the turn off action - but that will require me to wear the sensor.
Another (less accurate option) would be to know when I lay down on the bed, and after a certain predefined time - run the turn off action.

Another scenario is that I want to know when there's new mail in the mailbox.

For this - I need a weight sensor node that can sense the weight change of the mattress or that there's new mail on the sensor in the mailbox.

I can't, however, find such a sensor. All I can find is a pressure sensor which seems to be barometric + temperature sensor...

Anyone knows of a weight sensor I can use for this node?

Thanks!

Is that related to the circuit for battery level? Or something else?
What are the differences between the current rev. and what you are working on now?

@Samuel235 Any news regarding the new revision?

@aproxx will the second relay be opt-in?
I mean, will the board function normally with only one relay?

@aproxx great news! This is something I look forward to!

SMD is easier with solder paste and hot air solder

Even though it's untested, would you mind publishing the Gerber and bom files?

Looking good!
I see you went with the SMD path! did it allow for a smaller PCB?
Don't see how you handle the creepage though.

Like the picture here shows :

https://www.google.co.il/search?q=pcb+board+220v+5v&client=ms-android-om-lge&prmd=ivsn&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjO2Yb_gLTLAhUIVBQKHRzGAzgQ_AUIBygB&biw=360&bih=518#tbm=isch&q=pcb+board+creapage+&imgrc=VW6CJt4F2bzR8M%3A

Hi @sundberg84,
I was talking with a friend of mine who has pcb design experience about your board, and he told me to tell you that it would be better to add creapage protection between the 220v and the 5v sections, by bigger distance at also a longated gap. He told me the term, but I can't remember it now...

@samuel235
Thanks, I'd really appreciate that!

Saw you added the gerber files, thanks for that. Could you also provide the BOM file?
a couple more questions, if you don't mind:

1. Do you know how long the battery is expected to last before it needs to be replaced?
2. Does the module support GPIO pins as well, for some sensors to be connected?

Thanks again for taking your time to help!

OK, so if I get you correctly, the wall switch, when turned on, is detected by the slave module that updates the gateway, which in turn issues a command to the relay module to turn the light on/off. And the slave module detects the switch state change because it makes or breaks the connection.
Correct?

That is a smart approach! But for each light you have 2 modules (slave on the switch side and relay on the lamp itself)... That can sum up to a lot of nodes for the entire property...
More so considering a light with 4 way switch (3 different switches that can turn it on/off) - that would require 3 slave modules and a relay module.

Also - what are the expectations for battery drain?

@samuel235 said:

So here we have it guys, Revision 2 is now complete, tested and working perfectly! Its been a grueling process but so rewarding. I plan on making a few tiny little changes, including some headers/jumpers to allow ISP uploads while the radio is attached and pull-up resistors to the switch lines. I will get these all ironed out in the next few days and get the designs sent off to get the final boards manufactured. However, I don't feel that there is a great rush for this last board as the upgrades are very minor ones that won't effect its usability right now. The files on the original post are all up to date and relevant including the schematic. I'm yet to test the current draw, I'm trusting that it is sleeping in between the switch toggles, would this be tested via the current draw, if so where should it be measured to confirm this?

Here are a few photographs of the final board attached to a switch plate:

But here, you show the PCB connected directly to the switch, right?

@samuel235
While we're on the subject of switches - how is it that you are able to control the switch without a relay on board?

OK then,
But a thought: if instead of soldering the radio to the PCB, we solder female pins? That way we can easily detach the radio when we want to flush new sketch and attach again.

@samuel235 said:

@Sefi-Ninio - Soon as i get home from work tonight i will get that sorted for you. However i do advise you waiting for revision 3 to come out as currently a new sketch/program can't be uploaded to the uC while the radio is attached.

Thanks!
When do you think rev. 3 will come out and tested?

@samuel235 said:

I'm affraid i don't have this board set up with any distributor for pre-assembly sales. The only option to get this board pre made would be for me (or anyone else willing to build the board) to build the board for you then mail to you. I can supply you with the gerber files and everything needed to purchase the board and a BOM then you can build the board yourself if thats possible.

I'd appreciate the gerber and BOM files, though!
Could you add a link to them in the first post?

@samuel235
That is a shame, this looks like exactly what I was looking for, though the assembly is way over my head. This is why I was hoping to get it pre-assembled...

I can handle the basic soldering of a capacitor or varistor, but not their miniature versions, not to mention the atmega chip...

Hi,

I'm trying to order this PCB pre-assembled from itead.cc, but it requires Gerber and BOM files, none of which are found in the Eagle files zip...

Any idea how can I get this PCB pre-assembled?

So basically, I should duplicate the current circuit for the new relay...

@Sefi-Ninio said:

@Sefi-Ninio said:

Hi, @toabhishekverma
Well, your suggestion might work, I am not sure a switch that is meant to be connected to 220v mains can be connected to the gpio pin.

I think, adding an additional relay to the pcb and allowing them both to behave like a 3way switch will allow for maximum flexibility.

1. It could control 2 separate lamps
2. It could behave like 2 3-way switches
3. It could behave like a single 4-way switch

I would have done it myself, but I have no clue

@aproxx , what do you think about adding another relay (for a total of 2 on board) and making them 3-way?

OK Guys,
I've decided to try and use the original V3.2.3 plans and add another relay to them (with your permission, @aproxx).

The board will have to be a bit bigger, I will have to make room for another relay along side the existing one, and I will have to also make room for its connectors.
Not a big problem, I think, as it is already very well designed and has a small footprint, but still.

I need a bit of help from you guys, though - I am a complete noob when it comes to the wiring and electricity. I can handle the coding, no problem, but the electricity is very new to me.

I am assuming that besides adding the second relay, no other components need to be added - no resistors, capacitors, varistors etc.
Is my assumption correct?

Thanks!

@Sefi-Ninio said:

Hi, @toabhishekverma
Well, your suggestion might work, I am not sure a switch that is meant to be connected to 220v mains can be connected to the gpio pin.

I think, adding an additional relay to the pcb and allowing them both to behave like a 3way switch will allow for maximum flexibility.

1. It could control 2 separate lamps
2. It could behave like 2 3-way switches
3. It could behave like a single 4-way switch

I would have done it myself, but I have no clue

@aproxx , what do you think about adding another relay (for a total of 2 on board) and making them 3-way?

Hi, @toabhishekverma
Well, your suggestion might work, I am not sure a switch that is meant to be connected to 220v mains can be connected to the gpio pin.

I think, adding an additional relay to the pcb and allowing them both to behave like a 3way switch will allow for maximum flexibility.

1. It could control 2 separate lamps
2. It could behave like 2 3-way switches
3. It could behave like a single 4-way switch

I would have done it myself, but I have no clue

Hello,

I love your design!
However, I must have missed something. Considering I want to retain the ability to turn the light off with the wall switch, this board does not allow to connect the relay as a 3-way switch.

Also, considering it could be mounted inside the wall (and not only in the lamp base) - having 2-3 relays would be very functional! In my house, it is very common that a single wall mount has 3-4 switches that control 3-4 separate lamps. It will probably make the board bigger, more so if we support 3-way switches (see above comment), but it will be very versatile, especially for 4-way switches (see http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/3173/3-4-way-switch-with-a-relay )

Sweeet!!!!

Say @sundberg84, have you considered also adding one or two relays to the mix?
I know it'll probably increase it's size footprint but in terms for height, if you position them next to the HLK unit then there shouldn't be a noticeable height increase. SSRs are very small.

Hi @sundberg84, really appreciate the quick reply!
Thanks for the explanation - I'll check Itead out.
Regarding the safety - I completely understand, but after reading all the 360+ posts in the thread, I gained confidence both in the HLK-PM01 as well as the general circuitry when using the fuses and varistor. I'm not electrical engineer as well, and learning as I go/read.

Thanks again for the contribution, waiting for the 4th rev. !

Hello @sunberg84
I went over the thread http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/1607/safe-in-wall-ac-to-dc-transformers, and came across your PCB - Great work!
Not sure how I can have the PCB made - I'd appreciate any pointers. I have looked in the Design Files section but couldn't make sense of the files.

Thanks!

Anyone?
As mentioned, I prefer to use the RFM69HW, one reason is to be able to put a unit in the mailbox to notify when there's mail to picked up, and that is a little way off from the house...

@mfalkvidd
You know?
I started thinking about instead of going with the solution @BartE suggested, I could simulate the 4way switch with 2 relay units. Then I remembered your reply and then the chip fell into place, this is just what you suggested

Somehow, I think this solution is the best one. It it easier for me to comprehend and wire, and I think it is also more robust, as potentially, I can connect several of those along the wire if needed.

Software-wise, I think it's a simple matter of switching both relays to their NC or NO state in sync, so they both are either NO or NC, so the software is also relatively easier to implement.

I would love to hear what you guys think, though.

Thanks again for all the help, I'm learning this as I go. Software I know, but all the wirings is very new to me

Hey @TimO , @BartE
Thanks for the info

I can find 5V input, 230V output relays on eBay, no problem.
Can't find 220V input 5V output relays, though...

Anyone has a link maybe?

@BartE ok sounds good, thanks.
Though I'm not sure how to wire the first relay.

AFAIK, switching the relay state NO/NC is controlled by the arduino Dx gpio pin, not the other way around.

So while I understand the concept, I fail to see how to wire this...

@BartE Thanks for your reply!
In your suggestion, I can see how the arduino can control the light, however I am not sure I understand how flipping a switch will turn on the light.
Do you mean that in that case, flipping a switch will cause the 2nd relay to change state, and this will allow the arduino to know that it should change the state of the 1st relay (the one that is directly connected to the lamp)?

Hey!

This is a wiring question.
I have in my house a lamp that can be turned on/off by 2 switches, something like this:

However, I would like to throw an arduino controlled relay into the mix.
So, while keeping the functionality to turn the light on/off by any one of the switches, I also want to be able to turn the light on/off by the relay.

two problems:

1. I am not sure how to wire this. I guess I need something similar to this, not sure,
   

2. The software cannot know if the light is no or off just by the relay state... The relay could be hot but then someone flips the switch and the light os off even though the relay is hot. There has to be some light sensor in the mix and even this might not be good enough since while it is daytime the light sensor cant know if the reading is from the lamp or the daylight.
   I guess, conceptually, I don't care about the relay state, just turn it on/off like any other switch. But based on what should I decide to switch state?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Sefi

Hi!

I have searched the forums but could not find an answer to this...
I saw there is the schematics and code for a MQTT Ethernet Gateway using the NRF24L01 Radio.
I prefer to use the RFM69HW radio module for its range, but if I understand correctly, there is no SOFTSPI (or something similar) for it.

So, has anyone been successful in setting up a MQTT Ethernet Gateway using the RFM69HW Radio?