Good way to recognise fake NRF24L01+ is measurement of current consumption. The best is measure current in power down mode, genuine chips have about 500nA (datasheet says 900nA) but fake copies has over 3uA usually 4uA.

In transmit or receive mode have fakes a little higher consumption than genuine. Genuine Tx-0dBm~11mA, Rx~13mA. Fakes have about 2mA more than genuine and it's consuption is out of datasheet range!

step-up regulator is not needed for 3V the easiest way is removing stabilizer an diode and replace by wire. HC-SR01 sensor inner works with 3 to 5V

The main difference of this module is: this module uses genuine NRF24L01 IC, another brown PCBs contain in most cases fake NRF24L01, probably overlabeled SI24R1!

I think that range was better than fake NRF.

Good way to recognise fake modules is measurement current in power down mode. Genuine have about 500nA but fake about 4uA! But if you use PA+LNA version the power consumption is a little higher.

I use red PCB marked as E01-ML01D and there is range better than modules with fake NRF.

You can compare power consuption, if you received this new module. I think that your old module contain fake NRF and have worse current consumption. Original module have about 1uA in sleep mode, fake module have worse!

At this module seller declared power down mode current under 1uA, you can check your current module in power down mode, if current is significantly different you have got fake.

Blue - parts to be removed
Red - wire or tin short circuit

ATMEGA328PU-KR which i see on image is fake clone and really not product of Atmel (now bought by Microchip)

Hi all, i try NRF51822-04 module with this sketch and Si7021 as GY-21 sensor, communication over radio works great, but i still got Humidity 118% and Temperature 128°C

can anyone help me?

Si7021 is connected to P0.10 - SCL and P0.4 - SDA

@VaZso
Today i tested this method, and ... It works :-D:-D:-D:-D
Fake over 1mA, genuine about 0,5uA
Thank you.

But this can't be probably used as proof in disputes on aliexpress. But for quick test is this method insuperable.

Good way to recognise fake NRF24L01+ is measurement of current consumption. The best is measure current in power down mode, genuine chips have about 500nA (datasheet says 900nA) but fake copies has over 3uA usually 4uA.

In transmit or receive mode have fakes a little higher consumption than genuine. Genuine Tx-0dBm~11mA, Rx~13mA. Fakes have about 2mA more than genuine and it's consuption is out of datasheet range!

@Igor-Antolić I have 11pcs of this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/401239381506?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I think that all other parts with NRF24L01+ marked as E01-ML01xx are genuine, but from china is hard to vouch for anything. Is until another chinese factory do make this type of red boards with counterfeit IC.

But is only one chance to make this better, testing received goods for declared parameters and if you received counterfeits then don't pay for it and opening disputes and leaving negative feedback for this sellers and don't leave sellers get profit on this fake goods!

The main difference of this module is: this module uses genuine NRF24L01 IC, another brown PCBs contain in most cases fake NRF24L01, probably overlabeled SI24R1!

I think that range was better than fake NRF.

Good way to recognise fake modules is measurement current in power down mode. Genuine have about 500nA but fake about 4uA! But if you use PA+LNA version the power consumption is a little higher.

I use red PCB marked as E01-ML01D and there is range better than modules with fake NRF.

You can compare power consuption, if you received this new module. I think that your old module contain fake NRF and have worse current consumption. Original module have about 1uA in sleep mode, fake module have worse!

At this module seller declared power down mode current under 1uA, you can check your current module in power down mode, if current is significantly different you have got fake.

@Mercury69 PIR is based on interrupts, which wake-up processor from sleep mode, Arduinos based on ATMEGA328 have only two these pins, pin 2 and 3.

You can use 2 PIRs with detection which was fired, if you need more than two PIRs you can connect each PIR to any digital input of arduino and common signal OR-ing from all PIRs to generate interrupt to pin 2 or 3. Then if you wake-up by interrupt you can software test all of digital inputs and resolve which PIR was fired.

Blue - parts to be removed
Red - wire or tin short circuit

step-up regulator is not needed for 3V the easiest way is removing stabilizer an diode and replace by wire. HC-SR01 sensor inner works with 3 to 5V

@TimO Yes, i follow instruction on wiki and install serial transport sucesfully. I tried both types, first zip file and next package, but both with the same result

In log file is nothing about mysensors or any error.

Now i downloaded again from github and now all works without any problem. But i don't know where was problem.