NRF24L01+ range of only few meters

[Oitzu]

@LastSamurai Which nrf24l01+ modules are you using on which side?
Whats the typical error pattern you get? (Failed transmission from gw to node or from node to gw?)
Need to know your exact construction, before guessing what could be wrong.

[LastSamurai]

@Oitzu
I am using the "standard" ones on both sides ("sodial" ones. I think these). My logs from the controller from my thread look like this:

0;0;3;0;9;send: 0-0-123-123 s=1,c=1,t=2,pt=0,l=1,sg=0,st=fail:1
0;0;3;0;9;read: 123-123-0 s=1,c=1,t=2,pt=0,l=1,sg=0:1
123;1;1;1;2;1
0;0;3;0;9;send: 0-0-123-123 s=1,c=1,t=2,pt=0,l=1,sg=0,st=fail:1
0;0;3;0;9;send: 0-0-123-123 s=1,c=1,t=2,pt=0,l=1,sg=0,st=fail:0
0;0;3;0;9;send: 0-0-123-123 s=1,c=1,t=2,pt=0,l=1,sg=0,st=fail:1
0;0;3;0;9;send: 0-0-123-123 s=1,c=1,t=2,pt=0,l=1,sg=0,st=fail:1
0;0;3;0;9;send: 0-0-123-123 s=1,c=1,t=2,pt=0,l=1,sg=0,st=fail:0
0;0;3;0;9;send: 0-0-123-123 s=1,c=1,t=2,pt=0,l=1,sg=0,st=ok:1
0;0;3;0;9;send: 0-0-123-123 s=1,c=1,t=2,pt=0,l=1,sg=0,st=fail:0
0;0;3;0;9;read: 123-123-0 s=1,c=1,t=2,pt=0,l=1,sg=0:0
123;1;1;1;2;0
0;0;3;0;9;send: 0-0-123-123 s=1,c=1,t=2,pt=0,l=1,sg=0,st=fail:1
0;0;3;0;9;send: 0-0-123-123 s=1,c=1,t=2,pt=0,l=1,sg=0,st=ok:0
0;0;3;0;9;read: 123-123-0 s=1,c=1,t=2,pt=0,l=1,sg=0:0
123;1;1;1;2;0
0;0;3;0;9;send: 0-0-123-123 s=1,c=1,t=2,pt=0,l=1,sg=0,st=ok:1
0;0;3;0;9;read: 123-123-0 s=1,c=1,t=2,pt=0,l=1,sg=0:1
123;1;1;1;2;1
0;0;3;0;9;send: 0-0-123-123 s=1,c=1,t=2,pt=0,l=1,sg=0,st=fail:0
0;0;3;0;9;read: 123-123-0 s=1,c=1,t=2,pt=0,l=1,sg=0:0
123;1;1;1;2;0
0;0;3;0;9;send: 0-0-123-123 s=1,c=1,t=2,pt=0,l=1,sg=0,st=fail:1
0;0;3;0;9;send: 0-0-123-123 s=1,c=1,t=2,pt=0,l=1,sg=0,st=fail:0
0;0;3;0;9;send: 0-0-123-123 s=1,c=1,t=2,pt=0,l=1,sg=0,st=fail:1
0;0;3;0;9;send: 0-0-123-123 s=1,c=1,t=2,pt=0,l=1,sg=0,st=fail:0
0;0;3;0;9;send: 0-0-123-123 s=1,c=1,t=2,pt=0,l=1,sg=0,st=fail:1
0;0;3;0;9;send: 0-0-123-123 s=1,c=1,t=2,pt=0,l=1,sg=0,st=fail:0
0;0;3;0;9;send: 0-0-123-123 s=1,c=1,t=2,pt=0,l=1,sg=0,st=fail:1
0;0;3;0;9;send: 0-0-123-123 s=1,c=1,t=2,pt=0,l=1,sg=0,st=fail:0
0;0;3;0;9;read: 123-123-0 s=1,c=1,t=2,pt=0,l=1,sg=0:0
123;1;1;1;2;0
0;0;3;0;9;send: 0-0-123-123 s=1,c=1,t=2,pt=0,l=1,sg=0,st=fail:1
0;0;3;0;9;send: 0-0-123-123 s=1,c=1,t=2,pt=0,l=1,sg=0,st=ok:0
0;0;3;0;9;read: 123-123-0 s=1,c=1,t=2,pt=0,l=1,sg=0:0
123;1;1;1;2;0
0;0;3;0;9;send: 0-0-123-123 s=1,c=1,t=2,pt=0,l=1,sg=0,st=fail:1
0;0;3;0;9;read: 123-123-0 s=1,c=1,t=2,pt=0,l=1,sg=0:1
123;1;1;1;2;1
0;0;3;0;9;send: 0-0-123-123 s=1,c=1,t=2,pt=0,l=1,sg=0,st=fail:1
0;0;3;0;9;send: 0-0-123-123 s=1,c=1,t=41,pt=0,l=9,sg=0,st=fail:#00000
0;0;3;0;9;read: 123-123-0 s=1,c=1,t=41,pt=0,l=9,sg=0:#000000FF
123;1;1;1;41;#000000FF
0;0;3;0;9;send: 0-0-123-123 s=1,c=1,t=3,pt=0,l=3,sg=0,st=fail:100
0;0;3;0;9;send: 0-0-123-123 s=1,c=1,t=2,pt=0,l=1,sg=0,st=fail:0
0;0;3;0;9;read: 123-123-0 s=1,c=1,t=2,pt=0,l=1,sg=0:0
123;1;1;1;2;0
0;0;3;0;9;send: 0-0-123-123 s=1,c=1,t=2,pt=0,l=1,sg=0,st=fail:1
0;0;3;0;9;read: 123-123-0 s=1,c=1,t=2,pt=0,l=1,sg=0:1
123;1;1;1;2;1

Sometimes I get a fail message but the lights are reacting (so I guess the ack didn't reach the gateway). I wasn't able to debug the rgbw controller in its position yet because it's sitting on top of a cupboard.
If you need more infos just tell me.

I'll try out another arduino as gateway later.

PS according to this post they might be "fake" though ;) Although others seemed to have used them for mysensors too (comments)

[LastSamurai]

Something seems to be off with the controller. I tried the same code on another arduino uno and it worked just fine. A little less distance perhaps but no errors at all. I'll try to do some hardware testing and measuring tomorrow.

[Oitzu]

@LastSamurai also keep in mind that if you are using the LM2596 buck converter that you need to use a post ripple filter.
I explained that here: http://blog.blackoise.de/2016/03/building-a-lc-filter-for-your-nrf24l01-palna-module/.

[LastSamurai]

@Oitzu Thanks for the hint! That might actually have been a reason why it worked for some time and then stoped, right? I have ordered the components needed and will test it soon.
I don't actually use the LM2596 modules but these smaller ones but I guess they use similar parts.

Did you have similar issues?

[Oitzu]

@LastSamurai can't really say for this modules.
The datasheet for the LM2596 says you should use a post ripple filter for low noise, because it generates sawtooth ripple at its switching frequency (150khz). The china-clones of the lm2596 seem to be even worse generating even greater ripple with 50khz.

Whats the ic on the mini dc-dc converter called? The ebay offer says it has a output ripple of 30mV bute more then often these values are the best case. Maybe a datasheets is available.

[Nuubi]

It would be so useful to be able to measure the supply voltages with an oscilloscope. So far all my transmission problems have been related to the power supplies. Only after using a scope I fully realized that. No more freezing or poor function of the nodes.

Also, using a brand supply doesn't necessarily mean a clean signal. This (again) is an illustrative post about USB supplies, worth to take a look at:
http://www.righto.com/2012/10/a-dozen-usb-chargers-in-lab-apple-is.html

[Oitzu]

It would be so useful to be able to measure the supply voltages with an oscilloscope. So far all my transmission problems have been related to the power supplies. Only after using a scope I fully realized that. No more freezing or poor function of the nodes.

You are totally right! Unfortunately i also don't own a oscilloscope. But a cheaper usb oscilloscope is on my need to have list because of a all the trouble and testing i had with this...

[Igor Katkov]

@Oitzu DSO138 scope is like $25 from aliexpress

[Oitzu]

@Igor-Katkov said:

DSO138

Was thinking of something like the Hantek 6022BE. Most EE guys would say "eh... crap", but oh well.. it's just a hobby and i'm not willing to pay hundreds of dollars for it. :D

[Igor Katkov]

One might think that to measure ripple noise of $2 Chinese power supply ~$70 unit is an overkill :-)

[Oitzu]

@Igor-Katkov eh... now you just sound like my gf. :P
No, you're right. But it may come handy in some other situations. :)

[AWI]

@Nuubi My two cents.. I have been measuring (with a scope ;)) quite a lot of power supplies and have come to the conclusion that most (inexpensive) switching power regulators (buck & boost) should be avoided when a clean supply is needed. All (or most) of these just not have enough filtering (LC) for the switching frequency. So go for a 'linear' version (for buck/ step-down), especially for the radio. Also PIR sensors are very sensitive.

Lucky for us most MySensors circuits need very little power, so the efficiency of a linear converter (for buck) is sufficient in most cases.

from digikey

or use a linear converter as "second stage"

[LastSamurai]

@Oitzu Looks like the chips are these.

Btw I am using a cheap DS201 and I am happy with it for most cases. Sometimes I wish for a second channel but you can carry it around which is a big plus :)

@AWI I have to convert 12V to 3.3V which is a big jump. So you think a linear regulator would work here? Something like a LM 1117 T3,3? Doesn't that get too hot if I constantly power the arduino, the radio and potentially a sensor?
PS has someone tried this? Otherwise the second stage LDO (something small, smd) would be an idea too.

[AWI]

@LastSamurai No problem at all if you solder it on a copper plane. Most sensor circuits take less than 20mA.

I actually use the 662K LDO as a second stage with a step-up converter, works like a charm.

For the LM1117 (=not a real Low Dropout) the input voltage can be up to 20V.

[Oitzu]

@LastSamurai https://www.adafruit.com/datasheets/MP2307_r1.9.pdf
seems to be more complete and well.. a filter or a second stage would be recommend.

@AWI i'm actually have a project running from 12v lead batteries, best way would be to use 2 stages?
ATM i'm using an additional lc-filter to get the ripple out.

[AWI]

@Oitzu In your case ...
5 pcs complete linear adjustable neglectable ripple and cooled converter

[Oitzu]

@AWI hm... okay. Will probably order a few and test them. :+1:

[LastSamurai]

Could you perhaps actually use the onboard voltage regulator of the pro mini for powering the mini + nrf + random sensor? That would be the easiest + cheapest methode. Perhaps add one cap.

[Oitzu]

@LastSamurai depends on the used onboard regulator and the used nrf + random sensor.
But yes, this works also, most of the time on non pa/lna modules.