3.3 or 5v tranformer for mysensors projects
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Are you looking for a pcb mount power supply or any other kind would be ok? Hi-link supplies are used quite often by people here on the forum and so far I haven't heard of anybody got house burnt down :D
In any case I saw many projects using some safety precautions to avoid possible problems. -
If safety comes first you may be interested in these transformers: https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/6259/encapsulated-transformers-instead-of-traditional-switching-power-supplies-like-hi-link
I'm using such non-electronic transformers and I'm happy.
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what about MeanWell IRM-01 family ? there are couple of output voltages variants and mounting variants (THT and SMD). Im using now their bigger brother IRM-05 and have no issues with it.
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@rozpruwacz said in 3.3 or 5v tranformer for mysensors projects:
MeanWell IRM-01
never heard about this ones... they are like hi-link in size . in fact i'm using 4 hi-link now outside house(one repeater,water solar panel ,garden watering and gate control) and 0 problems.but for inside i prefer use something more robust or at least a good brand
but we know,any power supply can fail...that power supply will be behind a 2 key wall switch (for shutters up and down)
something like this: https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/2944/roller-shutter-node -
look at this beauty that i found when look for MeanWell family:
http://www.image.micros.com.pl/_dane_techniczne_auto/dc ls05-15b03s.pdf5w?
@Tmaster they require additional circuitry for filtering, look at the "TYPICAL APPLICATION" and "EMC RECOMMENDED CIRCUIT" sections.
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@rozpruwacz said in 3.3 or 5v tranformer for mysensors projects:
@Tmaster they require additional circuitry for filtering, look at the "TYPICAL APPLICATION" and "EMC RECOMMENDED CIRCUIT" sections.
crap!
i will use an regular mini trasformer, like hi link or equivalent from a known brand with termal shutdown that hi link don't have. -
hi guys . I just discovered how some main zwave brands power their modules.
the chip used its LNK302DN and the sckematic its(adapted for 5v or 3.3v):
SEE PAGE 4 AND 5
http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/2059771.pdf?_ga=2.242203521.2016163251.1496347222-1734612754.1489089187That's something!:bomb:
i'm a arduino fan .Even sometimes don't undestanding how to use it :P
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hi guys . I just discovered how some main zwave brands power their modules.
the chip used its LNK302DN and the sckematic its(adapted for 5v or 3.3v):SEE PAGE 4 AND 5
http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/2059771.pdf?_ga=2.242203521.2016163251.1496347222-1734612754.1489089187That's something!:bomb:
@Tmaster , we have discussed the LNK302 chip a while ago, it may be interesting to check: https://forum.mysensors.org/search?term=lnk302&in=titlesposts
I did POC here, and it does work, but I was a bit afraid of non-isolation so I decided to use the Hi-Link, assuming it would be more safe (and less components to assembly). I'm running a couple of nodes with Hi-Link for ~2 years without a glitch.
The classic transformer approach for sure brings more isolation and safety. Also it is a good choice if you want to detect zero-cross (for AC dimmers) and measure real power consumption (by reading the real AC voltage from the transformer's AC output). On the other hand I see the bigger footprint as well as more components to assembly.
Just my two cents...
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@Tmaster , we have discussed the LNK302 chip a while ago, it may be interesting to check: https://forum.mysensors.org/search?term=lnk302&in=titlesposts
I did POC here, and it does work, but I was a bit afraid of non-isolation so I decided to use the Hi-Link, assuming it would be more safe (and less components to assembly). I'm running a couple of nodes with Hi-Link for ~2 years without a glitch.
The classic transformer approach for sure brings more isolation and safety. Also it is a good choice if you want to detect zero-cross (for AC dimmers) and measure real power consumption (by reading the real AC voltage from the transformer's AC output). On the other hand I see the bigger footprint as well as more components to assembly.
Just my two cents...
@rvendrame said in 3.3 or 5v tranformer for mysensors projects:
On the other hand I see the bigger footprint as well as more components to assembly.
Bigger, but not always. For low-power nodes you can use very small transformers, size of such transformers with rectifier and voltage regulator comparable to Hi-Link PSUs with external curcuity, just an example on my finger:
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hi. i,m planing build an shutter controller with 2 relays like i already see here ,some with transformer(hlk-pm01) others tranformless(i don't trust them).
I already have many mysensors projects running but its the first one that connects directly to mains 230v and the first to be always on inside wall ,so i want it be safe.
So i search mini transformers to power that node. i find this ones below. they are like hlk-pm01 but are not chinese brand andcost around 6€http://docs-europe.electrocomponents.com/webdocs/1266/0900766b81266088.pdf
someone already use it ?
@Tmaster I have built a few in-wall switches/scene controllers that use the HLK-PM01 modules and have actually designed a circuit board for making more of them.
The board is pretty basic, but I use a standard 0.75A fuse as well as a thermal fuse on these for my high voltage protection.Another option for you are the Recom modules that some say are a much higher quality module. Compared to the HLK modules, the Recoms are a bit larger, but have things like increased space between the incoming AC power pins which for some is a concern. They come in a variety of output voltages with the 3.3v versions having a max output of 600mAn and a 400mA max for the 5V versions. Here is a data sheet link:
http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/468/RAC01_02-SC-16262.pdf -
recon psu are great,smal but expensive(12.21€) comparably with the mean well IRM-02 or IRM-01(+-5.50€) that @rozpruwacz said .
about lnk302 , i have 4 fibaro modules running for 3 to 4 years and never have problems as well.
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Powering projects like these is always a weak point for DIY.
I have found Vigortronix power modules with a zero-detection output. Those would be very convenient for those building a dimmer. But in some parts of the world there is a tone frequency switching system on the power grid that wreaks havoc on zero crossing, as the 50 (or 60) Hz cycle is disturbed. (In our house at 23:00 sharp, you can see the switching in the light above our dining room. So I wonder how the Vigortronix modules cope with that. Also, they're a bit bigger than the Hi-Link, so almost impossible to fit in a standard EU wall box.
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Rather than bury it in the wall, most electrical codes will require that you put your voltage converter into a suitable junction box with an easily accessible cover plate. You would then run wire from there to your point of use. That way, if your voltage converter were to fail, the damage is contained, and you can easily replace it.
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And in theory you should also not mix mains voltage cables with low voltage ones from a safety perspective
@gohan said in 3.3 or 5v tranformer for mysensors projects:
And in theory you should also not mix mains voltage cables with low voltage ones from a safety perspective
How would you avoid that in a case like this?
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Well that's something that should be thought during construction. Normally nothing would happen besides some EM noise that can be transferred to the low voltage wires, but if a mains wire gets damaged near a low voltage one it may burn off the small insulation and transfer 220v to your low voltage device. So the basic idea to mitigate the risk would be to use proper insulation for all the wires.
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We are now entering the realm of where you must draw the line of how far one should go in DIY'ing their home automation.
And I think that is a very difficult discussion.
First of all, the fire risk is constantly present in the back of my head. I am now (still...) in the process of automating the lights in our house (rented, so everything has to go when we leave). The best and safest way to do so would be to run every light power cable to a central junction box with the dimmers and switches. That makes it easy to separate the mains and low voltage cables to such a degree that a fault in either will not result in a dangerous situation.But a lot of houses her in Europe, like our apartment, have all the cables in conduit embedded in concrete which would make that impossible. (I know, in Belgium, the last two decades have been different. Most of the builds in that era have been done with all the light wires to a central switch box with pulse contacts in the rooms.) So. Embed the MySensors switch or dimmer in the wall box under the light switch. I have the funny feeling the WAF would suffer if the was a lump of a box hanging next to the light switch to contain the power supply.
How do the 433MHz and Z-Wave products do it then? These are allowed inside the wall around the world. But their form factor leaves a lot to be desired. They are a pain to connect and then wrestle back inside the box. Also the little screw terminals they use do not play well with solid core wire of 2.5mm². Dilemma's!The first design of my switch was with a dropper power supply. But those have a nasty side effect. You have to be precise with the current consumption, because every mA not used in the circuit is burned off in a resistor, creating excess heat. And I use 2 relays, so that would result in about 90mA being wasted in case of both relays not being energized. Too big a risk, I think.
Now I use the Hi-Link and am running a real world like test in a wall box outside of the wall. I use the on-board temperature sensor of the RFM69 to keep track of the temperature inside the box. It runs a steady 9 degrees above ambient with an extra 5 degrees when the relay is energized. So now with a room temp of 25°C that's a tad under 40°C inside the box. Outside of the wall. With only one relay. And all that means I am still not convinced this is the way.Like I said. Dilemma's!!!!
@gohan : There is low voltage wire you can use alongside mains wiring. KNX bus cable. That has sufficient shielding and insulation.
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The in-wall switches that I am designing do not actually control the mains with a relay. I consider them more of a scene controller that just tells my VeraPlus controller that a button was pressed. I then use that to send commands to the sonoffs that I have attached to the light, fan or other device that I want to control.
For the scene controllers, I have a standard 0.75A fuse in line with a 73°C thermal fuse for the protection in the wall. So in theory, I should be somewhat safe. The power supply board for the controller that I posted an image of in an earlier post only has the Hi Link PSU with a little bit of output filtering on the board with a fair amount of separation in the traces for the high voltage and low voltage sides. The one trace that is nearest the low voltage is the power line hot side, but it is after both fuses. On the prototypes I built before designing this board, I put a fair amount of hot glue on any high voltage side connections to prevent accidentally shorting the high voltage to the low voltage side when testing or installing.
I don't have a temp sensor on any part of the controller, but maybe that's something I can think about for a future revision of the boards.
