What did you build today (Pictures) ?
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I had a good laugh when examining the other board. Is this a normal solution for remote-in?
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@hek If this is for a sound bar, I know on some older stereos they had a remote signal out that you could tie into other components in the system. Maybe it's something like that.
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@neverdie could you achieve something similar with a sonoff pow measuring the whole cnc power consumption?
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@gohan I don't know, as I'm not familiar with Sonoff, or how sensitive it is.
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It's a WiFi power meter with a relay to turn off the load, so you could set a rule on controller that if measured power goes below a certain amount it will notify something
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It's a very good suggestion. If I wasn't already done, I'd try it. If it works, the Sonoff would be simpler and less effort.
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Another hour on my... whatever it is.
Anyone that can recommend a open source router (hardware) or cheap hardware for pfsense which isn't that big and draws that watt amount.
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WHat do you need a PC for?
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@gohan it's a pc with my intention to run pfsense (open source router) but it is old and draws to much power for my taste.
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How much power does that pc draw?
Mine:
Asrock Q1900B-ITX + pico 12V to atx psu + PCIE Intel Nic 2/4 Gbit ports + SSD can run on 20W or less, but I believe the J1900 Celeron lacks AES for VPN if you care about it.HP DL 380 G7 2xL5640 hex core, 144GB Ram, 4xGbit Nics, SSD, 90W at idle (99.9% of time) and pfsense is only one of the VMs I constantly run, besides OH2, Ubiquity controller, Nextcloud. The ability to snapshot a development VM, or fork (clone) it is a killer feature for me.
Another DL 380 G7 in standby is drawing 15W.
Phu*ck I have some old shitty switches that draw 30-40W, not to mention security cameras, 300-500Wh during the night for all my crazy home automation&security.
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@sundberg84 not cheap but 15W (at max load): https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Pfsense-Hardware-Qotom-Barebone-Mini-PC-Nano-itx-Core-i7-4500U-Fanless-Mini-Computer-X86-Router/32799048185.html
Cheaper alternatives:
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/2015-new-arrival-direct-selling-bay-trail-J1800-mini-pc-windows-8-1-Qotom-linux-2G/108231_32285025655.html max 10W
https://www.netgate.com/solutions/pfsense/sg-1000.html 2.5W idle
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the little netgate looks cute, but wondering if it would be enough powerful (for streaming etc.)
@sundberg84
when you already have parts laying around, like ram, hdd etc, you could also use intel J3355 or J4205 cpus, maybe better than J1800. J3355 boards are not expensive. Then add a pcie NICs or a simple usb to gigabit..
I would choose micro atx board because often cheaper, same for ram (more compatible ref vs itx boards sometimes are restrictive), and it may be more flexible for pcie slot. That is, if size is not a concern.Or maybe a more powerful cpu, if you plan to factorize lot of things in VMs etc.
In both case it could also allow you to save power by decreasing number of rpis for example. But an interesting math would be pros&cons between features, power consumption saving, cost of a more expensive setup vs years for ROI about power savings (if that is the point)
Maybe we'll see new mini pc router in future with new sbc and mcus..
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@sundberg84 you could have all the rpi's running on the pc hardware, and save a couple of pennies on the electricity bill..
I exchanged my HA rpi with an atom based machine, as it had 4Gb ram. Now I'm using docker to containerize the different parts of my setup (influxdb, grafana, domoticz, nodered, moquitto, etc.). Ok, it uses a bit more power, but not that much compared to the flexibility that I have now. So now I have a lot of "machines" for handling the different parts.. I can even spin up an experimental domoticz in seconds (I'm playing with mqtt for backbone in my HA setup, instead of mysensors serial protocol, and a lot of http calls to different parts of my system.
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You take for granted everybody knows how to work with docker
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I didn't know how to work with docker 2 months ago.. If I can learn it, others can do it too
It's not that complicated after all
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Some weeks ago I made a video with my children and i had this idea to do something with electronics... so mostly as a testproject I made a introduction video for EasyPCB. I kinda like it... but my English isnt the best in some places.
Easy/Newbie PCB for MySensors – 08:01
— Andreas Sundberg
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I built a GPIO interface for the Raspberry PI using @GertSanders PCB (link)
I ordered the PCB via OSH Park, successfully soldered 2 and my setup is now much cleaner without these jumper cables.
For the second one, I soldered the NRF directly on the PCB (just because I wanted to gain some height), and everything works flawlessly.Big thank to @GertSanders for his PCB!
My gateway runs mysgw, Mosquitto and Node-Red.
In the back is my Raspberry Dashboard displaying the weather, info from my solar installation and the sensors MQTT messages.
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@sburlot Can't help but see your weather display in the background. What platform is that?
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I made this LoRa shield for an Arduino Pro Mini:
I like it because of the small form factor and because it preserves access to all of the Pro Mini pins. i.e. you can plug it in just like a Pro Mini.
I also gave it 4 header pins for an Si7021 TH sensor, which I haven't yet attached.
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@dbemowsk
It's a Raspberry 3, with a cheap 480x320 screen, and a Python+PyGame script.Start of my script comes from this script
Temp+Humidity comes from mySensors SenseBender Micro via NodeRed/MQTT
Solar power comes from my inverter via a script (also MQTT)
Weather from WeatherUnderground
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not built today, but someone mentioned fumes extractor, so this is what I built for soldering, light and fume extractor are powered by a small usb rechargeable powerbank. Fan has a active carbon filter behind it and works great for small to medium-ish projects I work on
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@dakipro Very creative! Thanks for sharing. I've seen those flexible hose things before in other contexts, but I don't know the name. What is the term?
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@neverdie Don't they use something like that on CNC machines for the coolant?
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@dbemowsk Yup.
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Thanks. About the cnc pipes, just check if they are US or EU threads, as I was initially planning to fasten them with nuts, but couldn't find any US type in scandinavia. So I had to improvise with A LOT washers and heavy screws as seen in the picture. For the base I used old laptop cooling holder (whatever the name is).
And it works surprisingly well for what I use it, I was expecting it to have a bouncing effect, but it is not that much noticeable.
Way better then that ebay crappy holder with big magnifying mirror that is just so flimsy and annoying.
I was planing to dedicate one hose as a solder feeder, but never bothered with it.Light is a touch-to-adjust type, very very practical , something like this
https://www.ebay.com/itm/5X-6-LED-Night-Light-Soshine-USB-Power-1W-5V-Touch-Dimmer-Warm-White-Light-B2L8/282772437504?epid=721587756&hash=item41d68cfa00:g:gZQAAOSw1cNaMlr5I also have a switch for a fan on the side, and a volt stepup as the fan works on 12V (9 or 10 is my setting).
I have glued the magnets on the right on the last photo, they are then actually on the left of the silicone mat where the "compartments" are
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@dakipro What hose diameter do you recommend? I'm guessing larger diameters will be stiffer than smaller diameters, but that's only just my uninformed guess.
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@dakipro that's really nice, I have bought pipes and clips, but didn't find a suitable base yet. Good idea to use a battery too, it avoids an additional cable.
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Another EasyPCB video - a complete build of a 5v node with a radiotest and cleareeprom.
Complete build! - Easy/Newbie PCB (Nrf24l01+) for MySensors – 15:44
— Andreas Sundberg
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@neverdie i think i have the larger ones, but with 3-4$ pricetag one can easily order both and use what works best (or even combine them for more flexibility). I originally planned on using only 4 pipes, but then I figured why not put them all, they will just lie around anyway. Now I have two clamps orientated horizontally and two vertically for easier mounting.
Battery bank is I winner I think, it is very very practical and holds several hours.
Even if it goes flat during the project, it is just to plug everything into the wall charger, as one would have to do anyway.
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here is photo my usb gateway with STM32 power
it's a big difference with arduino nano
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and that's a TV box turn into a mini pc more powerful than raspberry pi 3
and I installed linux with domoticez and imperihome EMMC Flash is fluid and fast
and toutsca works well8 x CPU: Amlogic S912 Octa core ARM Cortex-A53 CPU jusqu'à 2GHz (DVFS)
GPU: 750MHz + ARM Mali-820MP3 GPU Processeur
RAM: 3Go DDR3
ROM: 32Go EMMC Flash
Système d'exploitation: Android 6.0
Ethernet: 100M/1000M
WIFI: 2.4GHZ / 5.8GHZ 802.11a / b / g / n / Ac
Bluetooth: BT4.1
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Not working on hardware at the moment, but I am still "building" things with mysensors.. Recently I have been moving all my homeautomation to docker containers, and also moving stuff towards using MQTT as a backbone transport.
Right now I have moved automation rules from domoticz to nodered, after which I have "killed" domoticz (the only reason why I had been keeping it alive, was because it handled some of my automation rules for turning tv / amplifier on when chromecast was active etc).
Together with my chromecast "surveilance python service" I get notifications on MQTT when any of my two chromecasts starts an app / pause/ play etc. The python program also has a MQTT listener, so I can send pause/play etc. to my chromecasts over mqtt. And even throw a stream to it over mqtt.
Today I made a universal control endpoint, so I can send pause/play etc. to a single mqtt topic, and then nodered directs it to the active chromecast, or to my dvd player if that is the active in the current scene.
In the end everything should play together with a dashboard that I have made in angular5 (rewriting it at the moment to use MQTT instead of various http calls)
The plan is that the dashboard is on a wallmounted tablet, acting as a simple dashboard / weather station, where one can control basic things in the livingroom (start streaming of specific Radio / TV channels among other things).
The nodered project can be found here, if anyone would like to have a look..
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@tbowmo
Quite cool, what is your reason behind to move away from Domoticz and go all in on node-red?
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I guess because you can do pretty much everything you want instead of being bound to what Domoticz can do
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I have been using influxdb/grafana for the last year or so, for logging data and presenting it, so no need to use domoticz for that. Over a year ago I injected nodered into the stream, so it sits between mysensors and domoticz, and was used to route things around (And make some fake sensors for domoticz).
For the dashboard part I have been developing my own solution. First it was running within domoticz as a customized dashboard, but I moved it to Angular instead, with a strong dependency towards domoticz, as I could query that to get sensor values. Lately I had moved on to use MQTT for the dashboard (and internal node-red data routing). There I can get persistent data (retain) that keeps the latest data on a given topic. Then my need for domoticz went away there..
The last thing I then used domoticz for, was the automation rules for turning on / off my tv when the chromecast was activated, and control a couple of LED strips according to the state of the chromecast (playing / paused etc). With that moved to nodered, then domoticz could be turned off.
The complete software stack is a bit larger, than with domoticz for everything, but it is much more flexible, than what I could achieve with domoticz.
also it brought in a couple of needed updates for my node-red mysensors nodes, so that was a "bonus" as well
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@tbowmo interesting indeed, tnx for sharing. Currently I still use Domoticz for the API Logging is done with INFLUX and Grafana. However in addition to Domoticz I use Pass2PHP. I can now control everything with PHP. PHP seems pretty common so a lot of examples I can find online ;-0. I am a complete MQTT / NODE-RED NOOB.
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@sincze said in What did you build today (Pictures) ?:
I am a complete MQTT / NODE-RED NOOB.
So start playing with it to become a Node-Red/MQTT Fanboy!
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It is always those last connections...
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@sincze well you're half way there, already got influxdb implemented
NodeRed is pretty easy to work with, and MQTT is (almost) just start and forget with mosquito. Just a messaging channel that you can hook any listener into, like python scripts, angular5 web apps etc.
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Today I built auto-detection of missing MySensors keywords. The build system will complain if someone adds a new keyword to the Doxygen documentation but forgets to add it to keywords.txt.
This is what the output looks like on the current code base (we're missing a bunch of keywords):
This is the code change:
I have also added those missing keywords to keywords.txt, so now they'll be highlighted properly in the Arduino IDE.
Thanks to Anticimex for assisting me in working with the build system.
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One more build for today: building the raspberry pi gateway.
I often need to test different settings for the Raspberry Pi Gateway. Running make after just changing one parameter in the configure command (for example, turning on or off interrupts for nrf24 or changing the PA_LEVEL) results in a 1m 13s wait on my Raspberry Pi:
I installed ccache using these instructions and now a make with the same type of change is done in 31s.
Not that much of a win, but it saves a lot of time when trying many different settings.
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did you cut the compile time of the gateway?
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@gohan yes?
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@mfalkvidd on my Pi3 it takes 40 around seconds, are you using an old Pi1 ?
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@gohan no, I'm using a Pi3.
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Today I finally got my thumbs out and upgraded my plant monitoring to MySensors 2.x (from 1.x).
Updated sketch is available on Github: https://github.com/mfalkvidd/arduino-plantmoistureResult: I really need to water my plants
But the 2.5 year old batteries are still going strong.
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Tonight some more PCB design:
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@sundberg84 I will throw my two cents in on the design. An issue that I had brought up on previous revisions had to do with capacitors. On the Rev 9 and below boards, your capacitor footprints were pretty much all for flat ceramic capacitors. While I was able to make it work for the couple can style electrolytics that I used, it wasn't quite right. Now on this revision, I see that all of your capacitors have a can electrolytic style footprint. I think it needs to be a mix. The 4.7uf and 10 uf capacitors should be can style footprint, whereas your 0.1s should be non polarized ceramic flat cap footprints. The flat pack ceramics I think have a wider hole spacing.
Again, just my two cents
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@dbemowsk the positive with polarized footprint is that you can use both and it's very easy for a newbie to see which one is Gnd. You who are more experienced can determine if you want to use a flat unpolarized cap.
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This evening I spent a few hours finding more MySensors keywords that exist but weren't highlighted.
I found about 20 that were documented but not highlighted, so I added them.I also found 3 that weren't documented nor highlighted. I have created issues on github to document them. Help is welcome. Documenting the keywords is an easy way to contribute to the project.
https://github.com/mysensors/MySensors/issues/1090
https://github.com/mysensors/MySensors/issues/1089
https://github.com/mysensors/MySensors/issues/1088
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@sundberg84 one of the 0.1uf caps that i use has short leads and wouldn't fit that hole spacing. They are higher voltage capacitors that i bought years ago for another project that i am trying to use up. I do see your point though.
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@mfalkvidd said in What did you build today (Pictures) ?:
Today I finally got my thumbs out and upgraded my plant monitoring to MySensors 2.x (from 1.x).
Updated sketch is available on Github: https://github.com/mfalkvidd/arduino-plantmoistureResult: I really need to water my plants
But the 2.5 year old batteries are still going strong.
What kind of components is this running on? I am having trouble getting my batteries to run even 2.5 months (or 2.5 weeks for the outside temp sensor...)
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@maghac see the link in my post for full details. But basically it is just what's recommended on the battery page. Arduino pro mini with power led and ldo removed, bod set to 1.8V, powered by 2xAA.
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This post is deleted!
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@thucar what display do you use and where did you buy it? What library did you use?
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@dirkc the display is a JLX12864-378 off a chinese “component tester” kit I had available. Using the u8g2 library to run it.
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Today I built a led dimmer and motion detector for my kitchen. Running on 12v and a led list of about 2m.
Everything is built on my MysX led board and it was so easy to assemble everything and it's really small.
I have documented this project and will show you in a video when edited.
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Today I built a new Ethernet Gateway.
Using a Freetrionics Ethermega - Fixed SPI bus, so no soft SPI and I can use MY_RX_MESSAGE_BUFFER_FEATURE. PoE, improved voltage regulator design so I can run the amplified NRF24 with MY_RF24_PA_LEVEL RF24_PA_HIGH.
Under the radio is a small prototyping area with capacitor for the radio and an ATSHA204A - because one day I swear I will implement signing.
Slightly modified Gateway sketch that writes successful DHCP IP addresses to EEPROM. I assign a static address on my router. If there's a power failure, the gateway will start up with last address - router takes ages to come online.
Fired up the X-carve to cut the aluminium chassis, which has added benefit of shielding the NRF radio as well. The complicated cutout on the front was to allow air intake for the fan. Was supposed to just be a grille, but after a couple of beers I got too cute for my own good. Took 2 hours to cut that.
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A video of my Ledstrip project in the kitchen:
MySensors LED Strip Dimmer - EasyPCB (Nrf24l01+) and Led Board. – 19:12
— Andreas Sundberg
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Today I have finished work on control center for my smart home. The box includes a Raspberry Pi 3, gateway, ethernet switch, power supplies 5V and 9V. Audio input jack, ethernet and AC line cabels out from the box. Maybe, a GSM module should be included to the free space too (i will thinking about...). I am going to install this box in the near future.
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@kalina said in What did you build today (Pictures) ?:
ione di installare questa scatola
if I can know !! The audio socket what is it for ???
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@sindrome73 said in What did you build today (Pictures) ?:
The audio socket what is it for ???
For connecting the audio system to the RPI3
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@kalina
And then once connected to the Raspy ?? What are you doing?? And a new thing for me !!
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@sindrome73 said in What did you build today (Pictures) ?:
@kalina
And then once connected to the Raspy ?? What are you doing?? And a new thing for me !!Maybe this picture will explain my intentions
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Ok, now it's clearer
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Today's work:
- Fixed https://github.com/mysensors/MySensors/issues/1096 (PR in progress)
- Fixed 60+ spelling mistakes in the example sketches https://github.com/mfalkvidd/MySensors/commit/6e7ee6ab30d503a6f288553689fdfbe645c931e6 (will submit PR when above PR is done)
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My friend had a leakage from the water heater, luckily he was around (and renting) so not much damage was made, so inspired by the incident I made another water leakage sensor for water heater (reusing the code from my previous "ribbon cable sensor" )
Then I have an "alarm" flow in node-red (via openhab) which blinks all lights in the house, sends notification to mobile phones with high priority etc. Which brings me a lot of joy when all works fine (and annoys my wife, as usual)...
They are so easy to made that I might as well make a few of them just for convenience and "feeling rich with sensors" if you guys know what I mean
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@dakipro what kind of setup do you end up with regarding bootloader / bod? What do you use to reprogram the pro minis bootloader?
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@sundberg84 these run great on 1.8v BOD with some bootloader I found on the web (linked in the last post here ).
I use uno to flash the bootloader (tried with some IVRs but never got it to work, so just dedicated one uno prototyping hat for flashing) and then upload the sketch with IDE.
They are reporting battery from 2v to 3v (0-100%), and previous linked node is now reporting 51% of battery after 6 months, with sensor check every 2min and hearth beat every 4h.
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Installed z-wave roller blinds (discussed on this topic) from Swedish company m.nu .
If all is great, I will order three more motors (and two knobs/switches) for living room and terrace doors (which should also automatically keep the shades open if doors er open, to prevent damage).
Made a basic node-red flow that uses xiaomi lux sensor to get them down, but ultimate goal is to have them understand when the light is very bright and when it is "cozy", perhaps even knowing to get the blinds just low enough. Found one good explanation on the internet, will check it out (perhaps use multiple lux sensors strategically placed around the room to determine sun position and strength). Any tips and tricks?
(gif of the action, cannot upload gif to the forum https://media.giphy.com/media/5aY6vSwVn1hsdYC6nd/giphy.gif )
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I printed a small box and put my first "22" board in action on my entrance door. So far so good it's reporting the status reliably, and looking really tiny. A big difference with my first sensor 2 years ago in a big generic project box.
Just need to clean the glue left from previous sensor now
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@nca78 said in What did you build today (Pictures) ?:
"22" board
Looks great, can we get more info about it/link?
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I've continued my quest to get all MySensors defines documented, by creating some pull requests
https://github.com/mysensors/MySensors/pull/1111
https://github.com/mysensors/MySensors/pull/1108
https://github.com/mysensors/MySensors/pull/1106
https://github.com/mysensors/MySensors/pull/1105The only keywords left new are ones that I don't understand good enough to document. These are tracked in
https://github.com/mysensors/MySensors/issues/1107 and https://github.com/mysensors/MySensors/issues/1090
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I also added buy links for a shielded PA+LNA module and a more reliable source for regular nrf24l01+, on request by @gohan who managed to dig up good Aliexpress buying sources. Thanks gohan!
The buying links are available at https://www.mysensors.org/build/connect_radio and https://www.mysensors.org/store/radio
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@dakipro said in What did you build today (Pictures) ?:
Looks great, can we get more info about it/link?
Not really, I posted about it long ago here (https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/7836/what-did-you-build-today-pictures/136) It's just made for me to play by making a sensor as small as possible, but it's pretty hard to solder and with CR1632 and nrf22 the battery life won't be that good (around 1 year) so I don't think I'll publish it.
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These arrived today...
New gateway and nodes with signing is first on my list.
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Built half of my dutch bucket system. Namely the drain part. Irrigation to follow.
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Working on setting up a new work bench in my back room in my basement where my HA equipment rack is. I wanted to build a case for my serial nRF24L01-PA-LNA gateway built on a rev8 Easy Newbie board. I just had the board sitting on a shelf on my rack, and now I want to mount it on my MDF board with all of my other equipment. Here is the design that I came up with for the case.
This is the inside bottom of the case:
And here is inside the top of the case:
It has a spot for 3 - 5mm LEDs for the transmit, receive and error lights. There is a hole on the right side of the case for the PA-LNA antenna connector. The oval hole on the lower right side of the case is for the DC in jack. I had one of these in my parts bin:
The hole on the bottom right is for the FTDI adapter connection. I am using one of these adapters that has a mini-USB connector:
I have the case running on the printer now. I will post pics when it is done.
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@dbemowsk very impressed by your openscad designs, as always
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For anyone interested, here is an OpenSCAD rendering of the MySensors logo:
I tried posting the OpenScad code for this, but it is too long to add to a normal post. So here is a link to the OpenSCAD file.
MySensors_logo.scadSpecial thanks to @hek for giving me the .svg file that allowed me to create this. I would be curious to see peoples uses for this.
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So I tried printing the cover for this with my original design using Cura as my slicer, and I couldn't get the logo to print right, plus the text under the LEDs was a bit too small. I then modified the design a bit and made the logo and text a bit bigger. I again tried printing it using Cura, but the logo still was missing some lines in the body. I then thought that part of the problem was the slicer I was using, so I tried it using Slic3r and I have to say, the logo came out MUCH better.
I ended up losing the Y in "My" Sensors and the ending "t" in "Transmit", but I am going to use the case the way I currently have it. Now I just have to assemble the new gateway. I am planning on making a whole new gateway and trying out the new 2.2.0 library. Hopefully my older 2.0.0 nodes will not have any issues with it, but that is why I plan on keeping my pro mini from my 2.0.0 gateway so I can revert back to that if I have to.
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Built case for soldering tools, to easily move them out of the way.
Not really, bought it on banggood and asked wife to assemble it (she likes those type of projects, especially if the office might look a tiny bit cleaner) https://www.banggood.com/DIY-Self-assemble-RC-Model-Tools-Case-Screwdriver-Box-Gripper-Package-Plier-Stand-Retro-Style-p-1257252.html?cur_warehouse=CN
Laser cut plywood(or something), looks quite nice I think. I will order few more when they appear in stock.
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So here is my contribution to this tread: a differential drive "brain". A work in progress:
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Finally finished my 2.2.0 gateway and have it mounted in the new enclosure. It appears to be talking to my 2.0.0 sensors just fine.!
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Another motion and led strip node.
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...and deployed.
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Nice, maybe add a diffuser? I've found that greaseproof paper (smörpapper in Swedish) works pretty well.
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@gertsanders what is that?
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@sundberg84 Nice. I was wondering if I had an use for these. Now I want them everywhere!
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@nagelc - easy to hide, looks good and awsome as night-lights for the kids. Its also a bit woav factor connecting them to a motion detector so they lights up when someone walks by.
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Bathroom controller. It consist of a relaybox with a HLK 5v power source, it's hidden in the closet. Then I have realy to light, nightlight, mirrorheat, and extraction fan
And then the controller it self it's a Wemos D1 Mini Pro, Si7021 Temp/Hum, sensor and a PIR HC-SR501
3D file is created with Freecad, STL files are available here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2890456
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@bjacobse Nice project. I like the 3D printed wall box. have you given any thought of having separate control of the lights and extraction fan? The reason I ask is that it may be beneficial to use the temp/humidity sensor to determine when the fan runs or gets shut off based on room humidity. This would be useful to reduce the chance of mold brought on by excess humidity.
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@bjacobse don't you get false pir detections with the wemos that close to the pir sensor?
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@dbemowsk Thank you
For now as it's in early stage, I use the left switch to switch on (when I goto shower)on manually the fan, mirror heat, fan, and light and nightlight for 10min.
the right switch is only to start the fan for 5 min
I have not yet added humidity to start extraction fan automatically, but yes I will add this to the ESPEASY, rules
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@gohan
No, I have a fairly large electrolyte cap on power supply on the controller PCB, to stabilize the PIR/Wemod/si7021 power source.Actually when the bathroom door is open, and someone walk by the bathroom, the PIR will detect this and switch ON the light. I could consider to update 3D print to add a "wall" to block PIR.
The idea is that this PIR potentially can be used to connect to burglaralarm (but again I need to verify that I dont get false PIR reading due to sunlight)
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I was asking because quite some people had issues with the PIR being too close to the antenna as the antenna during transmission was inducing some noise that triggered the sensor so they needed to move them apart to solve the issue
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Depending on the number of simultaneously active relays and the weemos tx power requirements make sure you don't overheat the HLK module, fire hazzard.
My 8 relay board draws a whooping 500ma @5V when all of them are active.
