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Safe In-Wall AC to DC Transformers??

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  • eniE Offline
    eniE Offline
    eni
    wrote on last edited by
    #355

    Hi everyone

    Im using this adapter in some of my projects, and i discovered a lot of faked ones lateley. Check carefully if you got genuie or faked ones. The genuie ones have 2 stickers on it, one with a barcode and one that writes "QC passed". Faked ones does not have those 2 stickers. The printing of faked ones gets easy away with acetone, genuie one stays.. Also there is a little hole at the bottom of genuie ones, faked ones are flat:
    alt text

    YveauxY petewillP hlksunnyH 3 Replies Last reply
    4
    • eniE eni

      Hi everyone

      Im using this adapter in some of my projects, and i discovered a lot of faked ones lateley. Check carefully if you got genuie or faked ones. The genuie ones have 2 stickers on it, one with a barcode and one that writes "QC passed". Faked ones does not have those 2 stickers. The printing of faked ones gets easy away with acetone, genuie one stays.. Also there is a little hole at the bottom of genuie ones, faked ones are flat:
      alt text

      YveauxY Offline
      YveauxY Offline
      Yveaux
      Mod
      wrote on last edited by
      #356

      @eni thanks for the heads up.
      How did you discover that fakes exists, and do you know the internal differences?

      http://yveaux.blogspot.nl

      eniE 1 Reply Last reply
      0
      • eniE eni

        Hi everyone

        Im using this adapter in some of my projects, and i discovered a lot of faked ones lateley. Check carefully if you got genuie or faked ones. The genuie ones have 2 stickers on it, one with a barcode and one that writes "QC passed". Faked ones does not have those 2 stickers. The printing of faked ones gets easy away with acetone, genuie one stays.. Also there is a little hole at the bottom of genuie ones, faked ones are flat:
        alt text

        petewillP Offline
        petewillP Offline
        petewill
        Admin
        wrote on last edited by
        #357

        @eni Thanks for posting this! I will update the first post with this info.

        My "How To" home automation video channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCq_Evyh5PQALx4m4CQuxqkA

        1 Reply Last reply
        0
        • Nca78N Offline
          Nca78N Offline
          Nca78
          Hardware Contributor
          wrote on last edited by Nca78
          #358

          I confirm about the fake ones. I just received a batch of fake ones from GREATWALL shop on aliexpress (seller with good reputation and used for many items on the MySensors shop...) and I'm filing a dispute right now, as the seller acknowledge they are different but pretend it's because HiLink is replacing their factory. Makes no sense if you replace your factory to set up a new line to build different modules :) This seller is also selling the Tenstar TP-0x modules pretending they "replace" the HLK so I suppose the one I received are tenstar modules disguised as HLK.

          They are obviously fakes and lower quality, as can be seen from the pins (thinner, and with no blocking mecanism so pins go inside the module when pushed), obvious lower quality with the gray material filling and very different looking plastic.
          I'll see how the dispute goes and after it's closed/solved I'll open one.

          0_1473300677126_HLK1.jpg
          0_1473302054227_HLK2.jpg

          1 Reply Last reply
          4
          • YveauxY Yveaux

            @eni thanks for the heads up.
            How did you discover that fakes exists, and do you know the internal differences?

            eniE Offline
            eniE Offline
            eni
            wrote on last edited by eni
            #359

            @Yveaux I discovered differences, because my circuit was not acting the same always (the problem was a tps2115 power mux), then i compared different orders and its clearly visible that they differ..

            I just opened a fake one and it actually looks like an genuie one, except some details and missing revision number on the pcb:

            alt text
            alt text
            alt text

            IMHO they did a great job faking this, it looks nearly the same and also works quite similar..

            One of the sellers i buyed this was also "Greatwall Electronics", but they accepted the dispute whitout any comment..

            1 Reply Last reply
            1
            • Nca78N Offline
              Nca78N Offline
              Nca78
              Hardware Contributor
              wrote on last edited by
              #360

              Same here, he accepted the refund quickly without making any comment.

              The PCB looks similar but the components on it are not the same, for example the transformer is different, at the bottom on the fake one the "D3" component doesn't fit in the silkscreen rectangle while it does in a genuine hlk. It's this kind of "details" that can make the module unsafe, or generate much more noise/ripple at the output.
              Yours seems to be a better copy than mine, as the input capacitor despite showing similar ratings is much smaller on it. Below it is the rectifier, on the genuine hlk it has the right markings, on the copy it looks like a fake as the mb6f text is just molded in plastic and not printed. The D2 diode has different markings between the two modules, too. Switching IC seems similar.
              Removing cover on the fake one was very easy as it's not blocked by the pins, also the filling was not complete with gaps as seen in first picture and it went away easily mostly in big chuncks while with the original hlk it was harder to remove and I also had to break the cover to take everything out.
              0_1473392596901_hlk_F3.jpg
              Fake on the left, notice the transformer similar to the one in eni's module. On the original module the transformer is similar to the one tested on lygte website.
              0_1473392611681_HLK_F4.jpg

              YveauxY 1 Reply Last reply
              0
              • Nca78N Nca78

                Same here, he accepted the refund quickly without making any comment.

                The PCB looks similar but the components on it are not the same, for example the transformer is different, at the bottom on the fake one the "D3" component doesn't fit in the silkscreen rectangle while it does in a genuine hlk. It's this kind of "details" that can make the module unsafe, or generate much more noise/ripple at the output.
                Yours seems to be a better copy than mine, as the input capacitor despite showing similar ratings is much smaller on it. Below it is the rectifier, on the genuine hlk it has the right markings, on the copy it looks like a fake as the mb6f text is just molded in plastic and not printed. The D2 diode has different markings between the two modules, too. Switching IC seems similar.
                Removing cover on the fake one was very easy as it's not blocked by the pins, also the filling was not complete with gaps as seen in first picture and it went away easily mostly in big chuncks while with the original hlk it was harder to remove and I also had to break the cover to take everything out.
                0_1473392596901_hlk_F3.jpg
                Fake on the left, notice the transformer similar to the one in eni's module. On the original module the transformer is similar to the one tested on lygte website.
                0_1473392611681_HLK_F4.jpg

                YveauxY Offline
                YveauxY Offline
                Yveaux
                Mod
                wrote on last edited by
                #361

                @Nca78 Maybe you could contact Hi-link (http://www.hlktech.net/product_detail.php?ProId=54) to discuss about the issue?
                They can confirm if it's genuine or a fake.
                I did the same with Nordic a while ago and they were very cooperative on the subject.

                http://yveaux.blogspot.nl

                Nca78N 1 Reply Last reply
                1
                • YveauxY Yveaux

                  @Nca78 Maybe you could contact Hi-link (http://www.hlktech.net/product_detail.php?ProId=54) to discuss about the issue?
                  They can confirm if it's genuine or a fake.
                  I did the same with Nordic a while ago and they were very cooperative on the subject.

                  Nca78N Offline
                  Nca78N Offline
                  Nca78
                  Hardware Contributor
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #362

                  @Yveaux if I had a doubt I would, but seeing the internals I have no doubt. The product page of the seller now shows a tenstar module and he didn't even try to argue to keep the money.

                  YveauxY 1 Reply Last reply
                  0
                  • Nca78N Nca78

                    @Yveaux if I had a doubt I would, but seeing the internals I have no doubt. The product page of the seller now shows a tenstar module and he didn't even try to argue to keep the money.

                    YveauxY Offline
                    YveauxY Offline
                    Yveaux
                    Mod
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #363

                    @Nca78 maybe hi-link, like Nordic, will try to prosecute to get the fakes off the market, or maybe they're not even aware these exist.
                    What do you have to loose by contacting them?

                    http://yveaux.blogspot.nl

                    1 Reply Last reply
                    2
                    • petewillP petewill

                      Does anyone know of any 120V AC to 5V DC transformers that are safe to put in a wall electrical box? I have been using old cell phone chargers for most of my projects but I was recently pondering putting something right in the wall. Since shipping can take so long I thought I'd ask now before I even start on the project.

                      I did some searching and couldn't find anything so I thought I'd ask the experts here.

                      Thanks in advance!

                      EDIT 9/7/2016
                      Watch out for Fakes! Read more here: https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/1607/safe-in-wall-ac-to-dc-transformers/355
                      If in doubt you can get them directly from the vendor here: http://www.hlktech.net/product.php?CateId=10

                      EDIT 12/28/2015
                      After MUCH discussion on this here are the findings of this thread (as of now):

                      Here is the diagram for how things should be wired:
                      HLK-PM01-Wiring.jpg

                      These are the parts I ordered. I haven't tested any of these parts yet as this project has been put on the back burner for now :(. I am in the USA so this is spec'd for 120 VAC. If you're using 240 you will need to change the size of the Varistor but everything else should be fine for 240.

                      Also, see these posts for more discussion/ideas if interested:
                      http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/1540/110v-230v-ac-to-mysensors-pcb-board
                      http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/2488/in-wall-pcb

                      Varistor for 120VAC - http://www.ebay.com/itm/321024816822?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

                      73°C Thermal Fuse - http://www.ebay.com/itm/221560426284?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=520415979885&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

                      250V 300mA Slow Blow Fuse - http://www.ebay.com/itm/111433875797?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=410420838583&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

                      HLK-PM01 - http://www.ebay.com/itm/351418782712?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

                      Pete

                      MattNYM Offline
                      MattNYM Offline
                      MattNY
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #364

                      @petewill

                      Hi Pete,

                      I realize this long and valuable thread is quite old at this point, but I have referenced it several times and wanted to make you aware (if you aren't already) of a new tiny AC/DC board mount converter. I was about to buy a few HLK-PM03's and add the various fuses and other safety components this group decided on, when I ran across a very similar product in the Mouser catalog. I mention this because it appears to be a newly released item AND it's made by MeanWell (part # IRM-02-3.3) and I remember several people saying they wish MeanWell made a USB power adapter for PCB boards. Well, now they do AND you can buy it via Mouser in the US, so getting a fake probably would be a non-issue. I am about to buy several and I will try and report back with how they work. Thank you for this post - it's been a lifesaver!

                      MeanWell AC/DC 3.3v Module

                      • Matt
                      petewillP 1 Reply Last reply
                      3
                      • MattNYM MattNY

                        @petewill

                        Hi Pete,

                        I realize this long and valuable thread is quite old at this point, but I have referenced it several times and wanted to make you aware (if you aren't already) of a new tiny AC/DC board mount converter. I was about to buy a few HLK-PM03's and add the various fuses and other safety components this group decided on, when I ran across a very similar product in the Mouser catalog. I mention this because it appears to be a newly released item AND it's made by MeanWell (part # IRM-02-3.3) and I remember several people saying they wish MeanWell made a USB power adapter for PCB boards. Well, now they do AND you can buy it via Mouser in the US, so getting a fake probably would be a non-issue. I am about to buy several and I will try and report back with how they work. Thank you for this post - it's been a lifesaver!

                        MeanWell AC/DC 3.3v Module

                        • Matt
                        petewillP Offline
                        petewillP Offline
                        petewill
                        Admin
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #365

                        @MattNY Great, thanks for posting! Let us know how it goes and if you think it's good I'll add it to the first post in the thread.

                        My "How To" home automation video channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCq_Evyh5PQALx4m4CQuxqkA

                        1 Reply Last reply
                        0
                        • Nca78N Offline
                          Nca78N Offline
                          Nca78
                          Hardware Contributor
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #366

                          At least it has the pins logically positionned, with A/C input pins as far as possible from each others.
                          And SMD version can be very useful too...

                          MattNYM 1 Reply Last reply
                          0
                          • Nca78N Nca78

                            At least it has the pins logically positionned, with A/C input pins as far as possible from each others.
                            And SMD version can be very useful too...

                            MattNYM Offline
                            MattNYM Offline
                            MattNY
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #367

                            @Nca78

                            I saw that too - no idea why the HLK-PM modules have the A/C pins right next to one another! This module also appears to be silicone sealed for moisture/dust resistance.

                            1 Reply Last reply
                            0
                            • dbemowskD Offline
                              dbemowskD Offline
                              dbemowsk
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #368

                              I didn't read through all the posts in the thread to know if these information links were posted already, but I read through these two and both contain excellent information. If these have been posted previously, please excuse the double post.

                              https://skippy.org.uk/quick-look-at-the-hlk-pm01/

                              http://lygte-info.dk/review/Power Mains to 5V 0.6A Hi-Link HLK-PM01 UK.html

                              Vera Plus running UI7 with MySensors, Sonoffs and 1-Wire devices
                              Visit my website for more Bits, Bytes and Ramblings from me: http://dan.bemowski.info/

                              m26872M 1 Reply Last reply
                              0
                              • dbemowskD dbemowsk

                                I didn't read through all the posts in the thread to know if these information links were posted already, but I read through these two and both contain excellent information. If these have been posted previously, please excuse the double post.

                                https://skippy.org.uk/quick-look-at-the-hlk-pm01/

                                http://lygte-info.dk/review/Power Mains to 5V 0.6A Hi-Link HLK-PM01 UK.html

                                m26872M Offline
                                m26872M Offline
                                m26872
                                Hardware Contributor
                                wrote on last edited by m26872
                                #369

                                @dbemowsk Infact that test was ordered by this thread (or another one in the forum, I don't remember exactly). :smiley: Don't worry about the double post, it's worth mentioning again.

                                dbemowskD 1 Reply Last reply
                                0
                                • m26872M m26872

                                  @dbemowsk Infact that test was ordered by this thread (or another one in the forum, I don't remember exactly). :smiley: Don't worry about the double post, it's worth mentioning again.

                                  dbemowskD Offline
                                  dbemowskD Offline
                                  dbemowsk
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #370

                                  @m26872 Were both tests ordered by this forum? They are both excellent tests and give enough varying information where both should be looked at by people trying to use these.

                                  One thing that was mentioned in the one from Skippy was the pin spacing on the incoming AC. I was actually surprised at this as I had previously bought some German made converters that had in incoming AC pins spaced out to the corners much like the DC out pins on the HLK models. It wouldn't be that hard for them to put those pins out to the edge. Looking at the bottom plate in some of the pics, there are already holes there, they would just have to modify the PCB slightly. If they did that, they would comply with the BS EN 60335 – “Household and similar electrical appliances. Safety. General requirements” standard of requiring at least 3mm between the hot and neutral leads. That was one of the reasons Skippy recommended using the MOV and thermal fuse.

                                  Vera Plus running UI7 with MySensors, Sonoffs and 1-Wire devices
                                  Visit my website for more Bits, Bytes and Ramblings from me: http://dan.bemowski.info/

                                  1 Reply Last reply
                                  0
                                  • TD22057T Offline
                                    TD22057T Offline
                                    TD22057
                                    Hardware Contributor
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #371

                                    I have a question... referring to the first post, why is the varistor after of the fuses? I thought it was there to protect against surges in the AC lines which would makes me think that the varistor should be before the fuses. Thoughts?

                                    TD22057T 1 Reply Last reply
                                    0
                                    • TD22057T TD22057

                                      I have a question... referring to the first post, why is the varistor after of the fuses? I thought it was there to protect against surges in the AC lines which would makes me think that the varistor should be before the fuses. Thoughts?

                                      TD22057T Offline
                                      TD22057T Offline
                                      TD22057
                                      Hardware Contributor
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #372

                                      @TD22057 said:

                                      I have a question... referring to the first post, why is the varistor after of the fuses? I thought it was there to protect against surges in the AC lines which would makes me think that the varistor should be before the fuses. Thoughts?

                                      I answered (some what) my own question via Google. Here's a quote from an electronics site:

                                      Fuse upstream of the MOV, but don't expect it to save the MOV. It will prevent your house from burning down after the MOV partly shorts and sits there glowing red hot.

                                      So it seems like the original post is correct on the order.

                                      1 Reply Last reply
                                      1
                                      • Nca78N Offline
                                        Nca78N Offline
                                        Nca78
                                        Hardware Contributor
                                        wrote on last edited by
                                        #373

                                        Yes varistors can have "catastrophic failure" when they can't handle the surge. In that case they will burn and form a short-circuit.

                                        1 Reply Last reply
                                        0
                                        • OliverDogO Offline
                                          OliverDogO Offline
                                          OliverDog
                                          wrote on last edited by
                                          #374

                                          Hi guys.

                                          Did you get any conclusion at all?

                                          Between these both:
                                          http://www.electrodragon.com/product/ac-85-265v-dc-5v-power-module/
                                          https://pt.aliexpress.com/item/5-pcs-HLK-PM01-AC-DC-220V-to-5V-Step-Down-Power-Supply-Module-Intelligent-Household/32267273843.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.anpFsP

                                          ** the second seems genuine in the pictures.

                                          Is one safer than the other?
                                          Is one of them safe enough to in-wall use.

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