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  3. Power conservation with battery powered sensors

Power conservation with battery powered sensors

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  • liningerL lininger

    I am working on my battery powered sensors and would like to verify a couple of things about cutting traces to reduce power consumption.

    http://www.mysensors.org/build/battery#general-tips-for-battery-operation

    This link shows where to cut traces to remove the power LED and on board regulator. My Arduino is a little different. It is a Deek-Robot 3.3v Pro Mini and the layout is a little different. I am confident that I have the right leads, but just want to double check with you guys, so I don’t trash a pro mini. See the image (sorry for the poor quality, best my phone could do). I enhanced the image by drawing solid blue where the traces are on the board with RED slashes were I believe the cuts should be.

    Also using the DC/DC Input 0.8-3V, Output 3.3V. Step Up Power Converter I removed the LED from the board and I still get the 3.3v out, so I am good there.

    mini-cut.jpg

    Just for reference
    I tested with the regulator and LED in place as well as the LED on the Step Up. I used the base mySensor temp sketch, with a sleep cycle of 32000ms, since currently the 1.4beta is limited to 32367 (integer) for its sleep duration. I got about 4 days with these parameters. I have since adjusted the library sleep function to long and will be testing again, when I confirm the trace cuts for my pro model.

    Thanks

    funky81F Offline
    funky81F Offline
    funky81
    wrote on last edited by
    #8

    @lininger Anyway, have anyone realize the consumption every deek-robot pro mini (before cutting the power regulator and led) are not the same?

    My first board takes 3.2mA while the other takes 2.4mA. All using the same battery, nrf24l01+ radio also sketch. And until now, I don't know where's the differences...

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    • funky81F funky81

      @Sidey I had sames experience few days ago.. What i do is that I check the bootloader condition. I dont know if my case same with you, but I do that and its working well now.

      S Offline
      S Offline
      Sidey
      wrote on last edited by
      #9

      @funky81

      Hi, the bootload is not really my problem. Connection via Programmer is also not possible.

      I've checkd the connections again and again.
      Not i think, i have another revision from the deek robot. I really have two diffent revisions. Layout seems same but they are not from the same production.

      But I've figured out that the lines in the picture at the first post are a little bit differnt as with my pro mini.

      I've made a cut directly at the regulator. And that it's the problem. The connection to vcc is exactly at this position. I've checked this with a jumper wire. Bringing back the connection let the uc run.

      I've attatched a photo. Red is the cut, green is the vcc connection.
      arduino-pro-mini-vcc and cuts.jpg
      Sidey

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      • sundberg84S Offline
        sundberg84S Offline
        sundberg84
        Hardware Contributor
        wrote on last edited by
        #10

        I have the same problems - anyone solved it?

        Deek robot dies when you try to remove the voltage regulator.
        Also its different consumption on each robot.

        Br

        Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
        MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
        MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
        RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

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        • SweebeeS Offline
          SweebeeS Offline
          Sweebee
          wrote on last edited by
          #11

          I have some and all I did was removing the regulator (desoldering) and it works fine. So no cutting wires. If you want to program it make sure you have a vcc connected to the side pins since the vcc on the ftdi header doesn't work anymore.

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          • sundberg84S Offline
            sundberg84S Offline
            sundberg84
            Hardware Contributor
            wrote on last edited by sundberg84
            #12

            @Sweebee Hi - thank you for this!

            I can also comfirm, desoldering the voltage regulator and not using the FTDI VCC does work.
            The deek-robot i tried to cut the trace shown in Battery page killed it so i had to resolder it.

            @hek maybe we should mention this on the battery page?
            I think a battery WIKI would be awsome... :)

            Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
            MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
            MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
            RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

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            1
            • hekH Offline
              hekH Offline
              hek
              Admin
              wrote on last edited by
              #13

              There are just too many clones out there...

              But I've been thinking of setting up a wiki for some time. The problem is to find out a good integration with the forum (same user base and and perhaps use the forum commenting on wiki articles). An open blogging platform for the community members to show off their projects/research might be a better choice.

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              • bjacobseB Offline
                bjacobseB Offline
                bjacobse
                wrote on last edited by
                #14

                ard_pro_mini_deek-robot.PNG

                My Deek-robot Arduino Pro Mini board.
                Only cut the LED PCB track
                Lift the Voltage regulator since the PCB track connected to the Voltage reg is also used further, so do NOT cut the track

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                • rmtuckerR Offline
                  rmtuckerR Offline
                  rmtucker
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #15

                  Well i just scrapped my first Mini pro by trying to remove the pesky Led.
                  There has to be a better alternative?

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                  • sundberg84S Offline
                    sundberg84S Offline
                    sundberg84
                    Hardware Contributor
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #16

                    I always desolder it completley, easiest way and you dont have to cut.
                    I also desolders the voltage regulator in my battery operations.
                    Works great on a pro mini (deek robot)

                    Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
                    MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
                    MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
                    RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

                    bjacobseB 1 Reply Last reply
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                    • sundberg84S sundberg84

                      I always desolder it completley, easiest way and you dont have to cut.
                      I also desolders the voltage regulator in my battery operations.
                      Works great on a pro mini (deek robot)

                      bjacobseB Offline
                      bjacobseB Offline
                      bjacobse
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #17

                      @sundberg84
                      I also on my last work removed the LG33, it's faster :-)
                      Well this most likely have been provided as info, but else it's here:
                      Remember to burn new OPTIBOOT 8MHz into the Arduino Pro Mini
                      and then I also use avrdude with a usbtinyISP to set the fuse to not check battery voltage monitoring, this is done after I have flashed this with Arduino IDE

                      avrdude -c usbtiny -p m328p -U efuse:w:0x07:m```
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