I have finally finished the automation of two blinds to tilt open at sunrise and tilt closed at sunset. I have updated an earlier sketch so it now works with the latest mySensors 1.4b1 beta library. Once the power related issues were worked out (See discussion in http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/182/standard-versus-lna-pa-radio-modules) they have been operating flawlessly for the last several weeks using the 1.4b1 library. Kudos to the MySensors team, you guys have done a great job!

I have attached the sketch, if anyone is interested in it. It’s not perfect and can always be improved, but it was a great learning project and might help someone just starting out with mySensors. The sketch is heavily commented with lots of debug printing, so you see how the processes interact. Be sure to comment out this line #define PDEBUG 1 for a final build. I also attached a snapshot of the process I followed while working on the project.

Have Fun

myBlinds40.ino

.zip did not take here are the files

Servo-Light-Temp-Sensors.ino

I am working on my battery powered sensors and would like to verify a couple of things about cutting traces to reduce power consumption.

http://www.mysensors.org/build/battery#general-tips-for-battery-operation

This link shows where to cut traces to remove the power LED and on board regulator. My Arduino is a little different. It is a Deek-Robot 3.3v Pro Mini and the layout is a little different. I am confident that I have the right leads, but just want to double check with you guys, so I don’t trash a pro mini. See the image (sorry for the poor quality, best my phone could do). I enhanced the image by drawing solid blue where the traces are on the board with RED slashes were I believe the cuts should be.

Also using the DC/DC Input 0.8-3V, Output 3.3V. Step Up Power Converter I removed the LED from the board and I still get the 3.3v out, so I am good there.

Just for reference
I tested with the regulator and LED in place as well as the LED on the Step Up. I used the base mySensor temp sketch, with a sleep cycle of 32000ms, since currently the 1.4beta is limited to 32367 (integer) for its sleep duration. I got about 4 days with these parameters. I have since adjusted the library sleep function to long and will be testing again, when I confirm the trace cuts for my pro model.

Thanks

Cases that take into account a NRF2401+ are non existent.

I finally moved my ethernet gateway from breadboard to a case. After looking for months for a case I finally settled on this one.

http://www.crispconcept.com/product-p/ar-uno-e-tr.htm

No glue or screws required it snaps together and can be easily taken apart. I ordered the one that holds the UNU R3, and Wiznet Ethernet Shield. The a NRF2401+ LNA & PA Antenna version also fit nicely into the box, but did have to drill a hole for the antenna.

Those were the correct traces to cut for the Deek-Robot 3.3v Pro Mini.

No power light
No regulator (note: you will only be able to upload your sketches when only using the the FTDI adapter with the pro mini, since any radio and senors will receive no power - attach your battery power for these to receive power and be able to debug the sketch).

Set the sketch up to sleep for 60 seconds and received temperature readings just fine. Bumped it up to 3600 seconds once per hour (as this is the target interval I am after) to see how long the battery will last.

@Bandra said:

Does anybody who has bypassed the onboard regulator on the HC-SR501 be able to post up a photo of where you soldered?

Here is how id modified the sensor.

Does anyone know if the Mini version also has such a place as the SR501?

@bjornhallberg said:

I have no step-up in the circuit, just 2xAA that powers the NRF24 directly and then the HC-SR501 is powered from the Arduino Pro Mini, not grounded next to the RAW pin but it seems to work anyway. No idea at what voltage the HC-SR501 will start to experience problems but I guess we'll find out as the battery level drops.

Are the 2xAA that power the NRF24 also powering the Pro Mini or are you using another power source?
Are you running the HC-SR501 in its 4.5v mode or the 3.3v modification?

I believe it was the step up converter in my case as it has been 3 days, working fine, and the 2-AA's still report 3.3v when not connected to the sensor.

Thanks

I ordered and received the following parts to build my own oscilloscope using an Arduino.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-an-Oscilloscope-Using-the-SainSmart-Mega2560-/?ALLSTEPS

I have never used one before so I am learning, and I can always use the arduino and touch screen for other projects like the
Scene Controller [Preview] here.

http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/446/scene-controller-preview

@bjornhallberg said:

Can you check if the sensor is actually sleeping reliably between interrupts/timers

Yep it is sleeping correctly. I output the trigger event to the console when testing locally and it only triggers on motion detect (1) and motion timeout (0) and when I exit sleep with a (0) I send the battery level back to the gateway when I exit sleep mode.

I just replaced the DC/DC Input 0.8-3V, Output 3.3V. Step Up Power Converter - it was outputting 5v. The last batch of 5 DC/DC Input 0.8-3V, Output 3.3V I ordered 3 had 5v output and 2 had 3.3v output. I am surprised it did not fry the pro mini as I bypass the regulator. Maybe this will fix my battery drain issue.

Be sure to check the components you get from china to make what you get is what you ordered.

@bjornhallberg said:

And you're not getting a ton of false positives from the sensor either I take it? Can you check if the sensor is actually sleeping reliably between interrupts/timers (even if it isn't detecting motion / HIGH)?

3.3v modification of the HC-SR501. No floating, just make sure you run the HC-GND to the Arduino-GND close to the RAW Pin (I read about this somewhere on this board I believe). If I placed the HC-GND at any other point (including the Arduino-GND next to pin 2) the HC-OUT would float all over the place. Also allow a few seconds for the sensor to settle after applying power.

@bjornhallberg

I am using the following sleep time

unsigned long SLEEP_TIME = 1800000; // Sleep time between wakeup and voltage reporting (in milliseconds)

// Sleep until interrupt comes in on motion sensor. Send update every thirty minutes
gw.sleep(INTERRUPT,CHANGE,SLEEP_TIME);

Has anyone successfully assembled a battery motion sensor that lasts for more than a few days, before the batteries are drained?

If so could you please provide a list of components you used.

Components I have tried in may combinations:

Arduino Pro Mini 3.3V http://www.ebay.com/itm/200914924969
LED and regulator removed

NRF24L01+ http://www.ebay.com/itm/170819069271
with CAP

DC/DC Input 0.8-3V, Output 3.3V. Step Up Power Converter http://www.ebay.com/itm/231083181020
LED removed

HC-SR501 PIR Motion Sensor Module http://www.ebay.com/itm/310574919531
5v and 3.3v power mod

Mini PIR Motion Sensor Module http://www.ebay.com/itm/221073558145
5v

DC/DC Input 1-5V, Output 5V. Step Up Power Converter http://www.ebay.com/itm/400528583414
LED removed

Supper mini 3A DC-DC Converter Step Down buck adjustable http://www.ebay.com/itm/201073184133?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

Power Sources:
23AE battery powered
CR2032 battery powered
2-AA batteries powered

I logged into to ask to ask this very question. The batch of mini pros I just received are also wired differently, trashed a sensor as well. On the second one I removed the LED and it still worked, but was scared to remove the regulator, without asking first. Will give it a try tonight.

thanks for the info

@thumper

I am not sure about LiPo and Solar or battery power in general. I had to use two separate 5v power supplies, one for the Arduino and one for the servo. Otherwise the pro mini would reset once the servo kicked in to open/close the blinds. My sketch never sleeps it always listens for commands sent from the Vera, either manually or PLEG commands at dawn and dusk.

Hardware List
1 - Arduino Mini Pro v3.3
1 - 220uF Capacitor (NRF24 across 3v and GND 16v+ rating)
1 - 470uF Capacitor Optional (Servo across 5v and GND 16v+ rating)
1 - Servo (Micro 25.0 oz-in [1.80 kg-cm] minimum) for selectblinds.com 1" Faux Wood Blinds 43"x38"
1 - NRF24L01 Wireless Transceiver Module (flat or antenna version) Beaware of power limitations when using the NRF24L01 antenna with LNA+PA
1 - Kimbrough Internal Rotary Drive Control System 500 NIB - connects servo to blind rod (may differ for you blind type and servo used) http://www.ebay.com/itm/291084936296?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
1 - DC power supply you may need to step-up or step-down for the servo 5v and 3.3v for the NRF depending on the Arduino board you use
http://www.ebay.com/itm/321408108698?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 is the one I used to power Arduino and servo separately.

If you are successful with LiPo and Solar combination, let us know, as it would be nice no to have the power wires hanging.

Thanks

@naveen
The first blind I put together I used a tinkerkit micro servo along with a Kimbrough Internal Rotary Drive Control System kit. The coupler fit perfect with the servo gear head.

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Arduino/T010050/?qs=gMoqXxk//5Y%2bHGmjFFrUpg==

http://www.ebay.com/itm/291084936296?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

The second blind I put together I used a TowerPro SG90 9G micro servo and had to do some DIY modifications using epoxy to attached the coupler to one of the servo arms as the Kimbrough kit did not mesh with the SG90 teeth.

Yes I use a VeraLite and a mySensors Ethernet Gateway. I also use the Program Logic Event Generator and Day or Night plugins for Vera to control when the blinds open and close. Attached is a snapshot of the PLEG inputs, conditions and actions I have setup for controlling the blinds.