@bjornhallberg said:

I have no step-up in the circuit, just 2xAA that powers the NRF24 directly and then the HC-SR501 is powered from the Arduino Pro Mini, not grounded next to the RAW pin but it seems to work anyway. No idea at what voltage the HC-SR501 will start to experience problems but I guess we'll find out as the battery level drops.

Are the 2xAA that power the NRF24 also powering the Pro Mini or are you using another power source?
Are you running the HC-SR501 in its 4.5v mode or the 3.3v modification?

I believe it was the step up converter in my case as it has been 3 days, working fine, and the 2-AA's still report 3.3v when not connected to the sensor.

Thanks

I ordered and received the following parts to build my own oscilloscope using an Arduino.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-an-Oscilloscope-Using-the-SainSmart-Mega2560-/?ALLSTEPS

I have never used one before so I am learning, and I can always use the arduino and touch screen for other projects like the
Scene Controller [Preview] here.

http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/446/scene-controller-preview

@bjornhallberg said:

Can you check if the sensor is actually sleeping reliably between interrupts/timers

Yep it is sleeping correctly. I output the trigger event to the console when testing locally and it only triggers on motion detect (1) and motion timeout (0) and when I exit sleep with a (0) I send the battery level back to the gateway when I exit sleep mode.

I just replaced the DC/DC Input 0.8-3V, Output 3.3V. Step Up Power Converter - it was outputting 5v. The last batch of 5 DC/DC Input 0.8-3V, Output 3.3V I ordered 3 had 5v output and 2 had 3.3v output. I am surprised it did not fry the pro mini as I bypass the regulator. Maybe this will fix my battery drain issue.

Be sure to check the components you get from china to make what you get is what you ordered.

@bjornhallberg said:

And you're not getting a ton of false positives from the sensor either I take it? Can you check if the sensor is actually sleeping reliably between interrupts/timers (even if it isn't detecting motion / HIGH)?

3.3v modification of the HC-SR501. No floating, just make sure you run the HC-GND to the Arduino-GND close to the RAW Pin (I read about this somewhere on this board I believe). If I placed the HC-GND at any other point (including the Arduino-GND next to pin 2) the HC-OUT would float all over the place. Also allow a few seconds for the sensor to settle after applying power.

@bjornhallberg

I am using the following sleep time

unsigned long SLEEP_TIME = 1800000; // Sleep time between wakeup and voltage reporting (in milliseconds)

// Sleep until interrupt comes in on motion sensor. Send update every thirty minutes
gw.sleep(INTERRUPT,CHANGE,SLEEP_TIME);

Has anyone successfully assembled a battery motion sensor that lasts for more than a few days, before the batteries are drained?

If so could you please provide a list of components you used.

Components I have tried in may combinations:

Arduino Pro Mini 3.3V http://www.ebay.com/itm/200914924969
LED and regulator removed

NRF24L01+ http://www.ebay.com/itm/170819069271
with CAP

DC/DC Input 0.8-3V, Output 3.3V. Step Up Power Converter http://www.ebay.com/itm/231083181020
LED removed

HC-SR501 PIR Motion Sensor Module http://www.ebay.com/itm/310574919531
5v and 3.3v power mod

Mini PIR Motion Sensor Module http://www.ebay.com/itm/221073558145
5v

DC/DC Input 1-5V, Output 5V. Step Up Power Converter http://www.ebay.com/itm/400528583414
LED removed

Supper mini 3A DC-DC Converter Step Down buck adjustable http://www.ebay.com/itm/201073184133?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

Power Sources:
23AE battery powered
CR2032 battery powered
2-AA batteries powered

Redesign Pro Mini atmega328 3.3V 8M Replace ATmega128 Arduino Compatible Nano

$2.35

15040 available

10PCS Arduino NRF24L01+ 2.4GHz Wireless RF Transceiver Module New

$8.12

Sold out

DC/DC ( Input 0.8-3V) ( Output 3.3V ) Step-UP Power Converter Voltage Module RF

$3.99

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Adjust IR Pyroelectric Infrared IR PIR Motion Sensor Detector Module HC-SR501

$1.20

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Mini IR Detector Module Pyroelectric Infrared PIR Motion Human Sensor HM

$1.68

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DC-DC 1-5V to 5V Step Up Power Supply Module 500mA Boost Converter Board 0.5A

$1.49

1624 available

5PCS mini 3A DC-DC MP2307 Chip Converter Step Down buck Power Supply 3V 5V 16V

$1.94

497 available

I logged into to ask to ask this very question. The batch of mini pros I just received are also wired differently, trashed a sensor as well. On the second one I removed the LED and it still worked, but was scared to remove the regulator, without asking first. Will give it a try tonight.

thanks for the info

@thumper

I am not sure about LiPo and Solar or battery power in general. I had to use two separate 5v power supplies, one for the Arduino and one for the servo. Otherwise the pro mini would reset once the servo kicked in to open/close the blinds. My sketch never sleeps it always listens for commands sent from the Vera, either manually or PLEG commands at dawn and dusk.

Hardware List
1 - Arduino Mini Pro v3.3
1 - 220uF Capacitor (NRF24 across 3v and GND 16v+ rating)
1 - 470uF Capacitor Optional (Servo across 5v and GND 16v+ rating)
1 - Servo (Micro 25.0 oz-in [1.80 kg-cm] minimum) for selectblinds.com 1" Faux Wood Blinds 43"x38"
1 - NRF24L01 Wireless Transceiver Module (flat or antenna version) Beaware of power limitations when using the NRF24L01 antenna with LNA+PA
1 - Kimbrough Internal Rotary Drive Control System 500 NIB - connects servo to blind rod (may differ for you blind type and servo used) http://www.ebay.com/itm/291084936296?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
1 - DC power supply you may need to step-up or step-down for the servo 5v and 3.3v for the NRF depending on the Arduino board you use
http://www.ebay.com/itm/321408108698?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 is the one I used to power Arduino and servo separately.

If you are successful with LiPo and Solar combination, let us know, as it would be nice no to have the power wires hanging.

Thanks

NEW Kimbrough Internal Rotary Drive Control System 500

$6.49

Sold out

AOK Dual-Plug AC DC 5V 2A Power Adapter Supply AK15G-0500200U

$115.10

Sold out

@naveen
The first blind I put together I used a tinkerkit micro servo along with a Kimbrough Internal Rotary Drive Control System kit. The coupler fit perfect with the servo gear head.

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Arduino/T010050/?qs=gMoqXxk//5Y%2bHGmjFFrUpg==

http://www.ebay.com/itm/291084936296?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

The second blind I put together I used a TowerPro SG90 9G micro servo and had to do some DIY modifications using epoxy to attached the coupler to one of the servo arms as the Kimbrough kit did not mesh with the SG90 teeth.

NEW Kimbrough Internal Rotary Drive Control System 500

$6.49

Sold out

Yes I use a VeraLite and a mySensors Ethernet Gateway. I also use the Program Logic Event Generator and Day or Night plugins for Vera to control when the blinds open and close. Attached is a snapshot of the PLEG inputs, conditions and actions I have setup for controlling the blinds.