In wall - PCB, (AC to DC 5v)
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@samuel235 depend on what you wants to do with it - its dynamic since you have the pins. If you want to add a relay and button you can hide it in the wallbox and still have the physical button or in the ceiling if you dont need that.
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@samuel235 depend on what you wants to do with it - its dynamic since you have the pins. If you want to add a relay and button you can hide it in the wallbox and still have the physical button or in the ceiling if you dont need that.
@sundberg84 - So It Is essentially a 'multi-use backboard' kind of application. So what I was trying to get to - In the UK we have something called a fused switch (link to image below). Now, you see that little rectangle to the side of the switch, its a fuse inside of a holder. I'm wondering if a possible model for a switch plate like that or any front plate to suit the needs (screen, switch, motion sensor, etc) could be maybe 3d printed, with that fuse holder incorporated into the front late with the board that you have made attached to the back of the front plate in such a manor that you can swap the fuse out without dismantling the whole socket or even soldering. Just a suggestion, well a huge suggestion at that i suppose.
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Im getting quite bad radio performance when i seal this inside some boxes... works much better if I dont have the lid on.
Does anyone know if the HLK can interfere with the radio (magnetic fields or anything)? EMF?
Power supply to radio has both 0.1 and 10 caps so I dont hope its spikes or power to radio thats bad.Maybe I should move the radio away from AC side?
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Im getting quite bad radio performance when i seal this inside some boxes... works much better if I dont have the lid on.
Does anyone know if the HLK can interfere with the radio (magnetic fields or anything)? EMF?
Power supply to radio has both 0.1 and 10 caps so I dont hope its spikes or power to radio thats bad.Maybe I should move the radio away from AC side?
@sundberg84 Connect a battery supply instead of the LE33 and see if it helps?
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@m26872 Yea, could try that one - nice thinking.
Made a testnode to see some performance on my PCB.
Combined temp, hum (DHT), motion and light sensor.
Sometimes i forget to think before i build though... not smart to measure temp and put it besides a power supply that generates heat, doh!
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Trying to take this to the next level:
3d design - first try (ever!).

I guess it wont meet any standard since its not completley sealed up - but I want to be able to reach the MYSX connector. Might be OK if I use a female pin header to MysX connector, then it wont be possible to put your finger inside.
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So, just a small update - im waiting for new PCB and parts (going to SMD components), almost everything has arrived but some nessecary things still missing.
I will leave this project here but not develop this version any more.
Instead I will create a new thread with the new SMD version! -
Hi all. I have been searching for a way to power nodes and stumbled across this project. My question is is this a viable and safe solution if I just recreate the ac-dc portion on perf board? In essence I want to create a good 5v power supply that can be hardwired into my home inside of an electrical box. Not necessarily in the wall but in less accessible places like attics and such.
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Hi all. I have been searching for a way to power nodes and stumbled across this project. My question is is this a viable and safe solution if I just recreate the ac-dc portion on perf board? In essence I want to create a good 5v power supply that can be hardwired into my home inside of an electrical box. Not necessarily in the wall but in less accessible places like attics and such.
@Ddawme - Hi!
I suggest you read all the links in the project for example:http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/1607/safe-in-wall-ac-to-dc-transformers
https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/4175/clearance-creepage-and-other-safety-aspects-in-mysensors-pcbs