💬 AC-DC double solid state relay module

[Nca78]

Hello !
Transformerless design means there is not isolation between main voltage and low voltage parts. You can get electrocuted with 110/220V when touching the low voltage side. It means it can be used only in the case of a sealed box.

For the temperature sensor the main source of heat is the hlk that heats up a lot. It's purpose is not to sense the temperature in the room, but to monitor the temperature inside the sensor and make sure there is not problem with the hlk overheating.

[HaM]

@Nca78 Thanks for the advice.

[A Former User]

Would it be possible tot change the relays to one (or two) triacs, keeping it's current features and also allowing it to dim lights?

[rhapen]

anyone found the Slow Blow Fuse (250v 0.2A) on aliexpress? if yes please link.

[rhapen]

found 250V 0.25A o aliexpress - i believe this will be good enough - http://tiny.cc/h4fpiy

[rhapen]

@Sacha-Telgenhof : It also took me bit of time. It is the PINs on the board 7 GND 4 for two switches 7 and 4 are the digital inputs on arduino.

[Jose Simoes]

hey @Aproxx, nice project, do you think a current sensor could be added to the PCB to monitor electrical consumption. the idea of adding triact to the circuit by @overlordt seems to work theoretically.

[SensibleHeat]

My parts are on the way and I"m looking forward to trying this one out. Thanks for sharing this project!!

[stray]

If you create a new version, could you connect the other 2 5V and GND holes next to D6 so these can easily be used as power output?

[Marco Lo Grasso]

I can't understand (scrub here) how to wire the regular light switch to the board.
Supposing I want to use only one relay, I have to wire the switch to the 7 PIN and GND right?

[tonnerre33]

@Marco-Lo-Grasso said in 💬 AC-DC double solid state relay module:

Yes you have to do this, but i don't know if the sketch is working fine with the light switch ;) I haven't tested this feature yet.

Caution, the light switch don't be connected to the 230V !

[Joe Barneson]

Any suggestions for front panels on the light switches? I've connected mine to normal switches to control the relays, but I'd really like a 4-8 soft button front panel that I could also wire into GPIO's on an ESP for "scene" control outside of the local relays. Auy suggestions or experience would be great

[Nca78]

Hello, I'm not sure exactly of what you want to to, but you could use software i2c on those two pins and connect and i2c keypad. You can search mpr121 keypad on google or aliexpress.
But be careful you should add an isolating cover on top of it if you connect to this board as the crepage/cleatance between main voltage and 5V/3.3V is not sufficient in some part of the board and it could end up with low voltage circuit at main voltage...

[Joe Barneson]

good to know clearence isn't there ... something i could correct though

An i2c and capacity touch could work great.. but i can't find any cleanly designed front panel that I could use in place of my light switches.

[Misna]

So if I understanded right the device needs also neutral to work? That's a problem because here in Finland we only circulate the phase through light switches. Neutral goes straight to the lamps.

[Nca78]

@Misna said in 💬 AC-DC double solid state relay module:

So if I understanded right the device needs also neutral to work? That's a problem because here in Finland we only circulate the phase through light switches. Neutral goes straight to the lamps.

Yes it does. Same problem for most people, even here in Vietnam it's the same.
Solution is to put it in ceiling connected directly to the lights, and use radio switch to control it.

[hugch]

Hi,
first of all you had an great idea to user a small layout with this functions.
The protection at the AC site is very good I think.

Today I get ten boards with your current gerber files (v3.3.2).
But I think it does not work as expected:

• Using a 5 V Arduino and the NRF without a level switcher with 3.3 V it will be break in the future.
• The big relay routes have no protection (I don't know if solder resist is the correct word).
• Maybe as pulldown resistor to the relay input could be useful.
• The three GND and Vcc Pins are not connected to each other.
• Maybe it could usefull to use fuse sockets for the not resetable fuse.

For the voltage problem we could use an 3.3 V Arduino mini pro with 8 MHz crystal.
In this case we don't need the LDO and could use LDO from the Arduino board.

[hugch]

Sorry I forgot something.
For a 3.3 V Arduino we need a MOSFET or so to drive the SSR.
But there are cheep and small SMD packages available.

[Nca78]

@hugch no you don't need MOSFET for those SSR, the high level of input is below 3.3V. I've made a board with those and a 3.3V Arduino and didn't have any problem.

For this board it's missing fuses on the SSRs, if they fail and shortcut nothing will stop the short circuit at the moment.

[hugch]

@Nca78 My SSRs are with 5 V level but one with 3.3 V level would be better. You are right.
And the fuses are important but i think the step down have an over current protection, but a PTC could useful.
But a MOSFET or equal is also required:
It is not a good idea to drive current intensive peripheral directly with an micro controller.
The absolute maximum ratings for an ATmega328p is 40 mA. And a SSR is using 25 mA or so.
The better choice is using a driver or a simple transistor circuit.

To drive the SSR directly would not damage the controller at this moment, but your are decrease the lifetime.
And the lifetime for an in wall module or so is very important.