Powering mote 24/7 using only a supercap and solar
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@NeverDie
sorry for delay..
i have a pad on bottom but it's not grounded on the bottom side. the power pad is grounded only on top. i don't remember but you should have a layout guideline included with the circuit footprint, for explaining.
i also use 0603/0805. -
I guess my oval pads reverted to the default pattern when I re-synced with the schematic. So, fixing that again, here's what I'm going with:


There's a bit more clean-up I should probably do, but I need to learn a bit more about Diptrace before I can do it. Meanwhile, I sent Version 6 to the fab, since fabbing is the critical path. -
@NeverDie
sorry for delay..
i have a pad on bottom but it's not grounded on the bottom side. the power pad is grounded only on top. i don't remember but you should have a layout guideline included with the circuit footprint, for explaining.
i also use 0603/0805. -
@NeverDie
oh, no competition... or let me win please :laughing: I'm joking. that said i'm not sure, but I think i see Wally on your board ;)
I'm back in an hour for sharing. i need to assemble few boards for myself :) -
@scalz said:
i'm not sure, but I think i see Wally on your board ;)
LOL. You probably need better ventilation when you're soldering. The fumes are getting to you. :laughing:
Interestingly, in today's mail I received the "BQ25504 Stripped" PCB

https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/CYdxpE9Sthat I ordered on November 16. That's about twice faster than their normal turnaround speed when I send them new fab files. The board itself is noticeably smaller than the Tindie board.
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@scalz said:
i'm not sure, but I think i see Wally on your board ;)
LOL. You probably need better ventilation when you're soldering. The fumes are getting to you. :laughing:
@NeverDie said:
@scalz said:
i'm not sure, but I think i see Wally on your board ;)
LOL. You probably need better ventilation when you're soldering. The fumes are getting to you. :laughing:
:laughing: no fumes tonight, reflow oven working for me :)
Wally is in your GND pour, in each of your board I think.
I mean you should not have any gnd around some settings resistors and capa.
Check carefully the section 11.1 Layout Guidelines in datasheet.
This is why on the reference layout you see Top GND only on half board. Or then it may happen less performance depending of mutliple factors.
It's also explained how to route the GND.That said, in case it can help, here is my gerbers https://www.dropbox.com/s/tugdbc3cfrlmdu7/bq25504_gerbers.rar?dl=0
Enjoy
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@NeverDie said:
@scalz said:
i'm not sure, but I think i see Wally on your board ;)
LOL. You probably need better ventilation when you're soldering. The fumes are getting to you. :laughing:
:laughing: no fumes tonight, reflow oven working for me :)
Wally is in your GND pour, in each of your board I think.
I mean you should not have any gnd around some settings resistors and capa.
Check carefully the section 11.1 Layout Guidelines in datasheet.
This is why on the reference layout you see Top GND only on half board. Or then it may happen less performance depending of mutliple factors.
It's also explained how to route the GND.That said, in case it can help, here is my gerbers https://www.dropbox.com/s/tugdbc3cfrlmdu7/bq25504_gerbers.rar?dl=0
Enjoy
What is "Wally"? I haven't heard that term before, and it's not in the datasheet either. I thought you were jokingly making an obscure reference to Waldo, as in "Where's Waldo?" That's why I had thought the fumes must have gotten to you. I realize now that Wally must instead be a French electrical term of some kind.
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@NeverDie
ahah :)If it can help you, here it is : https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/XRsFBtzu
This is because i've generated the gerbers with an other fabhouse CAM.
In mine, GML is the dimension layer if i remember right.
You can also open the gerbers in a viewer like Gerbv etc..
For oshpark, i have modified it a little bit because of slightly different DRC. -
@NeverDie
ahah :)If it can help you, here it is : https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/XRsFBtzu
This is because i've generated the gerbers with an other fabhouse CAM.
In mine, GML is the dimension layer if i remember right.
You can also open the gerbers in a viewer like Gerbv etc..
For oshpark, i have modified it a little bit because of slightly different DRC.@scalz
Thanks. I just now ordered it.Interestingly, if you look at Ti's eval board for the bq25504, they do in fact connect the top and bottom ground planes, and the thermal pad on the BQ25504 is connected to the entire bottom ground plane, not just another small thermal pad:
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@NeverDie
cool.
Well, perhaps it's ok. I followed datasheet guidelines..no matter the powerpad is connected on top.Perhaps, you may need the schematic to know where parts are placed ;)

You'll need to set your resistors of course.If really needed, no problem i can upload all the files..
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@NeverDie
cool.
Well, perhaps it's ok. I followed datasheet guidelines..no matter the powerpad is connected on top.Perhaps, you may need the schematic to know where parts are placed ;)

You'll need to set your resistors of course.If really needed, no problem i can upload all the files..
You should upload it to https://www.openhardware.io/ I'm sure a lot of people would find it very helpful.
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@NeverDie
cool.
Well, perhaps it's ok. I followed datasheet guidelines..no matter the powerpad is connected on top.Perhaps, you may need the schematic to know where parts are placed ;)

You'll need to set your resistors of course.If really needed, no problem i can upload all the files..
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@scalz
Out of curiosity, why did you choose such a large inductor? I notice that the "stripped" BQ25504 pcb (photo above) did the same thing. Are there advantages to the larger size?@NeverDie said:
@scalz
Out of curiosity, why did you choose such a large inductor? I notice that the "stripped" BQ25504 pcb (photo above) did the same thing. Are there advantages to the larger size?Nevermind. I see now from your schematic that you're using the coilcraft inductor from Table 1 of the DS.
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Interestingly, looking at the Tindie board now, it's clear based on its inductor's dimensions that the Tindie board is not using one of the Table 1 recommended inductors. Perhaps that explains why the Tindie board appears to be sucking wind at the lower voltages.
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Interestingly, looking at the Tindie board now, it's clear based on its inductor's dimensions that the Tindie board is not using one of the Table 1 recommended inductors. Perhaps that explains why the Tindie board appears to be sucking wind at the lower voltages.
@NeverDie
Coilcraft doesn't seem very available in the US, but Wurth has a similar one that's still on the DS table list that's probably a good substitute: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/wurth-electronics-inc/744031220/732-1012-1-ND/1639073Also, I'll have to update my board to use a larger inductor. I had blithely assumed, based on the Tindie board, that an 0805 would be sufficient, but now that I'm digging into it probably not.
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@NeverDie
Coilcraft doesn't seem very available in the US, but Wurth has a similar one that's still on the DS table list that's probably a good substitute: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/wurth-electronics-inc/744031220/732-1012-1-ND/1639073Also, I'll have to update my board to use a larger inductor. I had blithely assumed, based on the Tindie board, that an 0805 would be sufficient, but now that I'm digging into it probably not.
@NeverDie
I take it back. The Wurth component I just referenced has a rather complex looking land pattern.Fortunately, the last remaining component on the Table 1 recommended list is a Wurth that has a much easier land pattern: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/wurth-electronics-inc/744025220/732-2619-1-ND/2445718
