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  3. Powering mote 24/7 using only a supercap and solar

Powering mote 24/7 using only a supercap and solar

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  • NeverDieN Offline
    NeverDieN Offline
    NeverDie
    Hero Member
    wrote on last edited by NeverDie
    #61

    The through holes on the stripped BQ25504 PCB (above)from Osh Park have too small a diameter to fit header pins into. In fact, it would require a very narrow gauge wire (narrower than what I have) to fit into it. So, unfortunately, I have doubts as to whether I will be able to test it, let alone use it.

    This is all rather disappointing. :confounded: So far nothing about the BQ25504 has been easy.

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    • NeverDieN Offline
      NeverDieN Offline
      NeverDie
      Hero Member
      wrote on last edited by
      #62

      Not that it proves anything, but using KiCAD to look at the BQstripped PCB, I notice that the PCB designer chose to connect pins 12 and 13 both directly to each other and directly to the thermal pad.

      blaceyB 1 Reply Last reply
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      • NeverDieN NeverDie

        Not that it proves anything, but using KiCAD to look at the BQstripped PCB, I notice that the PCB designer chose to connect pins 12 and 13 both directly to each other and directly to the thermal pad.

        blaceyB Offline
        blaceyB Offline
        blacey
        Admin
        wrote on last edited by
        #63

        @NeverDie said:

        Not that it proves anything, but using KiCAD to look at the BQstripped PCB, I notice that the PCB designer chose to connect pins 12 and 13 both directly to each other and directly to the thermal pad.

        Did you say KiCAD? :+1: :+1: :+1:

        NeverDieN 1 Reply Last reply
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        • blaceyB blacey

          @NeverDie said:

          Not that it proves anything, but using KiCAD to look at the BQstripped PCB, I notice that the PCB designer chose to connect pins 12 and 13 both directly to each other and directly to the thermal pad.

          Did you say KiCAD? :+1: :+1: :+1:

          NeverDieN Offline
          NeverDieN Offline
          NeverDie
          Hero Member
          wrote on last edited by NeverDie
          #64

          @blacey said:

          Did you say KiCAD? :+1: :+1: :+1:

          Yup. I had to use KiCAD to confirm the proper chip orientation before attempting to hand solder it to their PCB. Looks like a nice program.

          I had doubts I could hand solder the BQ25504, but I tried it using Dave Jones's tack and reflow method, and to my untrained eye it looks like it came out OK, despite the chip not being completely well aligned with the solder pads:
          0_1480378211590_BQ25504_1.jpg

          0_1480378225784_BQ25504_2.jpg

          0_1480378245176_BQ25504_3.jpg

          0_1480378270381_BQ25504_4.jpg

          The Wurth inductors arrived today, so I'll have a go at soldering that on next. Hopefully the BQstripped PCB designer picked the same one I did!

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          • NeverDieN Offline
            NeverDieN Offline
            NeverDie
            Hero Member
            wrote on last edited by
            #65

            Looks as though the inductor hand soldered as well:
            3_1480381576419_inductor4.jpg 2_1480381576419_inductor3.jpg 1_1480381576418_inductor2.jpg 0_1480381576418_inductor1.jpg

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            • NeverDieN Offline
              NeverDieN Offline
              NeverDie
              Hero Member
              wrote on last edited by NeverDie
              #66

              Interestingly, if one looks at the KiCad schematic for the bqstripped PCB, you will notice that it draws a distinction between regular GND and GNDPWR:
              0_1480428663373_kicad_schematic.pdf

              However, as already noted, that distinction seems to be cast aside when they laid out the PCB traces, since pins 12 and 13 are connected together directly by a trace. Indeed, the schematic explicitly shows GNDPWR connected to GND. So, why create the distinction in the first place?

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              • scalzS Offline
                scalzS Offline
                scalz
                Hardware Contributor
                wrote on last edited by scalz
                #67

                @NeverDie
                this is for the power gnd plane regarding the analog gnd plane. analog for instance should be connected at one point. but then in practice like you said it looks a bit different...
                don't worry too much i think!
                The good in this, is i think, you have learnt good things (taking care of datasheet guidelines etc...) for future :thumbsup:

                NeverDieN 1 Reply Last reply
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                • scalzS scalz

                  @NeverDie
                  this is for the power gnd plane regarding the analog gnd plane. analog for instance should be connected at one point. but then in practice like you said it looks a bit different...
                  don't worry too much i think!
                  The good in this, is i think, you have learnt good things (taking care of datasheet guidelines etc...) for future :thumbsup:

                  NeverDieN Offline
                  NeverDieN Offline
                  NeverDie
                  Hero Member
                  wrote on last edited by NeverDie
                  #68

                  @scalz

                  I want to do it properly. I'm just not sure what is proper with this chip. What is the technically correct way to do it?

                  P.S. I ordered some 30AWG wire for hooking up the BQstripped PCB.

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                  • NeverDieN Offline
                    NeverDieN Offline
                    NeverDie
                    Hero Member
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #69

                    I had to order some 4.7uF smd 0603 capacitors and 4.42M ohm 0603 resistors.

                    The DS also calls for 15.62M ohm resistors, but the closest thing that Digikey carries is 15M ohm 0603 smd's, so that's what I ordered.

                    Meanwhile I did solder the 10nf capacitors to the BQstripped pcb, as I had those on hand. If I had it to do over, I would probably have soldered them prior to soldering the BQ25504 and the 22uH inductor, as those parts were in the way.

                    NeverDieN 1 Reply Last reply
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                    • NeverDieN NeverDie

                      I had to order some 4.7uF smd 0603 capacitors and 4.42M ohm 0603 resistors.

                      The DS also calls for 15.62M ohm resistors, but the closest thing that Digikey carries is 15M ohm 0603 smd's, so that's what I ordered.

                      Meanwhile I did solder the 10nf capacitors to the BQstripped pcb, as I had those on hand. If I had it to do over, I would probably have soldered them prior to soldering the BQ25504 and the 22uH inductor, as those parts were in the way.

                      NeverDieN Offline
                      NeverDieN Offline
                      NeverDie
                      Hero Member
                      wrote on last edited by NeverDie
                      #70

                      Just a few notes on a conservative approach to component selection for boost converters that I've lately gleaned from reading various datasheets:

                      1. Ideally, capacitors should be rated X5R or X7R.

                      2. For inductors, generally speaking the lower the DCR the better, provided that the saturation current remains appropriately high enough. For instance, the B82462G4 series (http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en/inductors-coils-chokes/fixed-inductors/196627?k= +B82462G4&k=&pkeyword= +B82462G4&pv7=2&mnonly=0&newproducts=0&ColumnSort=0&page=1&quantity=0&ptm=0&fid=0&pageSize=500 ) has much lower DCR than any of the datasheet recommended inductors. These inductors are more expensive, but their use should, in theory, lead to higher efficiency and/or lower start/operating voltages. Also, I suspect the Tindie board's performance is impaired by its choice of inductor, because I haven't seen specs on any inductors as small as theirs is that has a low DCR.

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                      • scalzS Offline
                        scalzS Offline
                        scalz
                        Hardware Contributor
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #71

                        +1 for X5R/X7R ;)

                        NeverDieN 1 Reply Last reply
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                        • scalzS scalz

                          +1 for X5R/X7R ;)

                          NeverDieN Offline
                          NeverDieN Offline
                          NeverDie
                          Hero Member
                          wrote on last edited by NeverDie
                          #72

                          @scalz said:

                          +1 for X5R/X7R ;)

                          I looked into it a little bit more, and I'm defaulting to X7R for everything, unless there's good reason not to: https://www.maximintegrated.com/en/app-notes/index.mvp/id/5527 The article also provides good reason to favor larger package sizes, up to size 1210, if the design allows.

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                          • scalzS Offline
                            scalzS Offline
                            scalz
                            Hardware Contributor
                            wrote on last edited by scalz
                            #73

                            @NeverDie
                            that's also what i do, ceramic, x7r everywhere when possible. nice article, thx for sharing ;)

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                            • NeverDieN Offline
                              NeverDieN Offline
                              NeverDie
                              Hero Member
                              wrote on last edited by NeverDie
                              #74

                              I've settled on this series of shielded inductor as having a good bang for buck ratio: low DCR, high current rating, and relatively low price: http://www.digikey.com/catalog/en/partgroup/dg-series/53965?mpart=1255AY-220M=P3&vendor=490

                              If anyone knows of a better series than that one, please post.

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                              • NeverDieN Offline
                                NeverDieN Offline
                                NeverDie
                                Hero Member
                                wrote on last edited by NeverDie
                                #75

                                For comparison, I ordered an inexpensive ($0.91, including shipping) 6v panel: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/6V-0-6W-Solar-Power-Panel-Module-DIY-Small-Cell-Charger-For-Light-Battery-Phone-Toy/32723002222.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.OYll8L

                                It's a little bigger, but still reasonably small (a little more than 2"x3" in size). Mainly, though, the energy harvesting chips that work at very low voltages are surprisingly expensive, so maybe this higher voltage panel will allow the use of less expensive chips that have higher start voltages. Of course, indoors I don't expect it will ever get to a full 6v under load, but I do expect that under the same lighting conditions it will offer up higher voltages at the same load as the cheap garden solar cell referenced in the OP.

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                                • NeverDieN Offline
                                  NeverDieN Offline
                                  NeverDie
                                  Hero Member
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #76

                                  @scalz I was just now noticing that you like to put silkscreen between component pads:
                                  0_1481325056200_bq25504_scalz.png

                                  Does silkscreen work the same as solder mask, in that it sorta "repels" molten solder away from it? I really don't know, but I've been assuming that it doesn't. In fact, I've gone out of my way to move silkscreen away from the solder pads out of fear it might contribute to inadvertent solder bridging between pads.

                                  Anyone know?

                                  NeverDieN 1 Reply Last reply
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                                  • scalzS Offline
                                    scalzS Offline
                                    scalz
                                    Hardware Contributor
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #77

                                    @NeverDie
                                    well, sometimes i think to not put them at all! especially when i want to make things compact..at a moment, it becomes difficult to fit them, and you can't reduce fontsize because it's ugly. usually, i use 32mils.

                                    I've never had short because of this though.

                                    NeverDieN 1 Reply Last reply
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                                    • scalzS scalz

                                      @NeverDie
                                      well, sometimes i think to not put them at all! especially when i want to make things compact..at a moment, it becomes difficult to fit them, and you can't reduce fontsize because it's ugly. usually, i use 32mils.

                                      I've never had short because of this though.

                                      NeverDieN Offline
                                      NeverDieN Offline
                                      NeverDie
                                      Hero Member
                                      wrote on last edited by NeverDie
                                      #78

                                      @scalz said:

                                      @NeverDie
                                      well, sometimes i think to not put them at all! especially when i want to make things compact..at a moment, it becomes difficult to fit them, and you can't reduce fontsize because it's ugly. usually, i use 32mils.

                                      I've never had short because of this though.

                                      Actually, I wasn't referring so much to the letters and numbers--which are off to the side-- so much as the little dashes and lines that appear between the pads. The letters and numbers are useful.

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                                      • scalzS Offline
                                        scalzS Offline
                                        scalz
                                        Hardware Contributor
                                        wrote on last edited by scalz
                                        #79

                                        I know, you're right, these are useful ;)
                                        but when doing compact stuff, it's not always easy to display everything well..
                                        I usually have my computer display in front of me when assembling, or i print the layout x4..so i don't look at the silkscreen so much..

                                        About "repels", if i understand right, i have never got short during soldering. I think you mean silkscreen, between parts, would help to bridge soldering? but no never got problem.
                                        I often use stencil+reflow oven, so there is only the solder needed. For proto, generally i almost assemble at hand, still no problem :)

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                                        • NeverDieN Offline
                                          NeverDieN Offline
                                          NeverDie
                                          Hero Member
                                          wrote on last edited by
                                          #80

                                          In that case, maybe it's a non-issue, which would be good to know for future reference.

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