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  3. What did you build today (Pictures) ?

What did you build today (Pictures) ?

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  • berkseoB Offline
    berkseoB Offline
    berkseo
    wrote on last edited by
    #746

    My battery operated mini touch switch

    1_1554642160825_photo_2019-04-07_13-58-03.jpg 0_1554642160824_photo_2019-04-07_13-58-02.jpg

    1 Reply Last reply
    0
    • berkseoB Offline
      berkseoB Offline
      berkseo
      wrote on last edited by
      #747

      1_1554642422327_photo_2019-04-05_21-32-08.jpg 0_1554642422326_photo_2019-04-05_21-32-08 (2).jpg

      1 Reply Last reply
      5
      • sundberg84S Offline
        sundberg84S Offline
        sundberg84
        Hardware Contributor
        wrote on last edited by
        #748

        I don't think I ever managed to get it right the first revision.

        0_1554644735090_1554644713534396819827.jpg

        Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
        MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
        MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
        RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

        sundberg84S 1 Reply Last reply
        2
        • sundberg84S sundberg84

          I don't think I ever managed to get it right the first revision.

          0_1554644735090_1554644713534396819827.jpg

          sundberg84S Offline
          sundberg84S Offline
          sundberg84
          Hardware Contributor
          wrote on last edited by
          #749

          But it's something...

          0_1554651767460_15546517582521430623468.jpg

          Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
          MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
          MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
          RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

          Nca78N 1 Reply Last reply
          3
          • sundberg84S sundberg84

            But it's something...

            0_1554651767460_15546517582521430623468.jpg

            Nca78N Offline
            Nca78N Offline
            Nca78
            Hardware Contributor
            wrote on last edited by
            #750

            @sundberg84 you should print the board on paper, stick it on a piece cardboard and cut. Then check if size is good, you can even put the "big" components on it by sticking the pins through the cardboard to make sure you'll have enough space.

            sundberg84S 1 Reply Last reply
            0
            • Nca78N Nca78

              @sundberg84 you should print the board on paper, stick it on a piece cardboard and cut. Then check if size is good, you can even put the "big" components on it by sticking the pins through the cardboard to make sure you'll have enough space.

              sundberg84S Offline
              sundberg84S Offline
              sundberg84
              Hardware Contributor
              wrote on last edited by
              #751

              @nca78 great tip! But it's more common it's a schematic or footprint error. The outline "should" be the easy part even if I messed up.

              Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
              MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
              MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
              RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

              1 Reply Last reply
              1
              • Nca78N Nca78

                @fotofieber said in What did you build today (Pictures) ?:

                Testing a CCS811 CO2 sensor.

                Unfortunately this is not a CO2 sensor. It's only a VOC sensor giving an estimated eCO2 value. It's useful to tell you if your room needs ventilation, but not much more. And as even the VOC part is not calibrated it's only good for relative measurement.
                AFAIK the only similar sensors which are calibrated and give absolute values are SGP30 and BME680.
                If you want to measure CO2 you need a CO2 sensor and it's going to consume a lot of power, at least too much for a battery powered sensor.

                [edit] there's also the MiCS-VZ-89TE TVOC sensor, they claim to have a curve of eCO2 not too far from NDIR sensor in their datasheet. But that datasheet is strangely poor in details, they didn't even put any electrical characteristics...
                https://sgx.cdistore.com/datasheets/sgx/MiCS-VZ-89TE_V1.0.pdf

                FotoFieberF Offline
                FotoFieberF Offline
                FotoFieber
                Hardware Contributor
                wrote on last edited by FotoFieber
                #752

                @nca78 said in What did you build today (Pictures) ?:

                @fotofieber said in What did you build today (Pictures) ?:

                Testing a CCS811 CO2 sensor.

                Unfortunately this is not a CO2 sensor. It's only a VOC sensor giving an estimated eCO2 value. It's useful to tell you if your room needs ventilation, but not much more. And as even the VOC part is not calibrated it's only good for relative measurement.

                My tests will show, how far away I am with this sensor in my indoor usage scenario.

                My Netatmo sensors claim to measure CO2 and are battery powered. They seem to calibrate themselves to the lowest level they measure in 24 hours. This behaviour seems to be similar with the CCS811. The Netatmo sensors seem quite close to my MH-Z14A.

                In the datasheet for the CCS811 I have read, that you can't use them in your green house, because of its self calibration. Netatmo may have the same restriction too.

                AFAIK the only similar sensors which are calibrated and give absolute values are SGP30 and BME680.

                I have ordered a SGP30 some days ago and will test it too. The BME680 needs binary code linked which is a no go for me. (As a gift I would take it into my test setup. :) )

                If you want to measure CO2 you need a CO2 sensor and it's going to consume a lot of power, at least too much for a battery powered sensor.

                The problem with high power sensors is, that they produce heat, which can make your temperature measurements unusable. :(

                As my CO2 sensors have a color led to show air quality, they are mains powered anyway.

                [edit] there's also the MiCS-VZ-89TE TVOC sensor, they claim to have a curve of eCO2 not too far from NDIR sensor in their datasheet. But that datasheet is strangely poor in details, they didn't even put any electrical characteristics...
                https://sgx.cdistore.com/datasheets/sgx/MiCS-VZ-89TE_V1.0.pdf

                Thank you for the link. I have ordered one for my test setup. They are really expensive, about twice the price of the MH-Z14A, the SGP30 or the CCS811.

                Other CO2 sensors I should use in my test setup?

                I like the MH-Z14A and depending on my tests may stay with them.

                EDIT: ordered a MHZ-19 for the tests

                Nca78N 1 Reply Last reply
                1
                • FotoFieberF FotoFieber

                  @nca78 said in What did you build today (Pictures) ?:

                  @fotofieber said in What did you build today (Pictures) ?:

                  Testing a CCS811 CO2 sensor.

                  Unfortunately this is not a CO2 sensor. It's only a VOC sensor giving an estimated eCO2 value. It's useful to tell you if your room needs ventilation, but not much more. And as even the VOC part is not calibrated it's only good for relative measurement.

                  My tests will show, how far away I am with this sensor in my indoor usage scenario.

                  My Netatmo sensors claim to measure CO2 and are battery powered. They seem to calibrate themselves to the lowest level they measure in 24 hours. This behaviour seems to be similar with the CCS811. The Netatmo sensors seem quite close to my MH-Z14A.

                  In the datasheet for the CCS811 I have read, that you can't use them in your green house, because of its self calibration. Netatmo may have the same restriction too.

                  AFAIK the only similar sensors which are calibrated and give absolute values are SGP30 and BME680.

                  I have ordered a SGP30 some days ago and will test it too. The BME680 needs binary code linked which is a no go for me. (As a gift I would take it into my test setup. :) )

                  If you want to measure CO2 you need a CO2 sensor and it's going to consume a lot of power, at least too much for a battery powered sensor.

                  The problem with high power sensors is, that they produce heat, which can make your temperature measurements unusable. :(

                  As my CO2 sensors have a color led to show air quality, they are mains powered anyway.

                  [edit] there's also the MiCS-VZ-89TE TVOC sensor, they claim to have a curve of eCO2 not too far from NDIR sensor in their datasheet. But that datasheet is strangely poor in details, they didn't even put any electrical characteristics...
                  https://sgx.cdistore.com/datasheets/sgx/MiCS-VZ-89TE_V1.0.pdf

                  Thank you for the link. I have ordered one for my test setup. They are really expensive, about twice the price of the MH-Z14A, the SGP30 or the CCS811.

                  Other CO2 sensors I should use in my test setup?

                  I like the MH-Z14A and depending on my tests may stay with them.

                  EDIT: ordered a MHZ-19 for the tests

                  Nca78N Offline
                  Nca78N Offline
                  Nca78
                  Hardware Contributor
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #753

                  @fotofieber said in What did you build today (Pictures) ?:

                  EDIT: ordered a MHZ-19 for the tests

                  Make sure you order a MHZ-19B, it uses less power and has fixed an autocalibration problem.
                  SenseAir S8 has a better calibration process using several days, so if you don't ventilate your room during 24h it will not use a wrong reference level and report wrong values.

                  And about BME680 there are boards on AliExpress with included STM32 Cortex M0+, basically it's the same than the MiCS-VZ-89. Search for GY-MCU680V1.

                  FotoFieberF 1 Reply Last reply
                  0
                  • Nca78N Nca78

                    @fotofieber said in What did you build today (Pictures) ?:

                    EDIT: ordered a MHZ-19 for the tests

                    Make sure you order a MHZ-19B, it uses less power and has fixed an autocalibration problem.
                    SenseAir S8 has a better calibration process using several days, so if you don't ventilate your room during 24h it will not use a wrong reference level and report wrong values.

                    And about BME680 there are boards on AliExpress with included STM32 Cortex M0+, basically it's the same than the MiCS-VZ-89. Search for GY-MCU680V1.

                    FotoFieberF Offline
                    FotoFieberF Offline
                    FotoFieber
                    Hardware Contributor
                    wrote on last edited by FotoFieber
                    #754

                    @nca78 said in What did you build today (Pictures) ?:

                    And about BME680 there are boards on AliExpress with included STM32 Cortex M0+, basically it's the same than the MiCS-VZ-89. Search for GY-MCU680V1.

                    Thx, ordered one on aliexpress. Hope I have time to test when they arrive... :)
                    EDIT: first results, hope CCS811 will calibrate better in the next two days
                    0_1554786685400_co2-sensor-comparison.png

                    1 Reply Last reply
                    0
                    • berkseoB Offline
                      berkseoB Offline
                      berkseo
                      wrote on last edited by berkseo
                      #755

                      All elements are assembled :)

                      0_1554766549868_WhatsApp Image 2019-04-09 at 02.34.31.jpeg

                      https://youtu.be/U437QXp3pqI

                      petewillP 1 Reply Last reply
                      3
                      • berkseoB berkseo

                        All elements are assembled :)

                        0_1554766549868_WhatsApp Image 2019-04-09 at 02.34.31.jpeg

                        https://youtu.be/U437QXp3pqI

                        petewillP Offline
                        petewillP Offline
                        petewill
                        Admin
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #756

                        @berkseo nice! What did you use for the capacitive sensor? MPR121?

                        My "How To" home automation video channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCq_Evyh5PQALx4m4CQuxqkA

                        Nca78N 1 Reply Last reply
                        0
                        • petewillP petewill

                          @berkseo nice! What did you use for the capacitive sensor? MPR121?

                          Nca78N Offline
                          Nca78N Offline
                          Nca78
                          Hardware Contributor
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #757

                          @petewill said in What did you build today (Pictures) ?:

                          @berkseo nice! What did you use for the capacitive sensor? MPR121?

                          TTP223s in top left and top right corners ;)

                          @berkseo I'm curious about that, why not use the capacitive touch function of the NRF52832 ?

                          berkseoB 1 Reply Last reply
                          1
                          • berkseoB Offline
                            berkseoB Offline
                            berkseo
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #758

                            @nca78 said in What did you build today (Pictures) ?:

                            TTP223s in top left and top right corners

                            yep :)

                            1 Reply Last reply
                            0
                            • Nca78N Nca78

                              @petewill said in What did you build today (Pictures) ?:

                              @berkseo nice! What did you use for the capacitive sensor? MPR121?

                              TTP223s in top left and top right corners ;)

                              @berkseo I'm curious about that, why not use the capacitive touch function of the NRF52832 ?

                              berkseoB Offline
                              berkseoB Offline
                              berkseo
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #759

                              @nca78 said in What did you build today (Pictures) ?:

                              I'm curious about that, why not use the capacitive touch function of the NRF52832 ?

                              Ttp223 chips suit me. Very stable stuff. When I tried to do it on amtel328, these mcu also had this feature (almost all mcu have this feature). But it was not very stable. I'm not sure that a stable device using the mcu 52832 would be possible. If there is an example of a stable software implementation, I would be happy to test it, and then it would be clear to do it without external capacitive chips or not.

                              1 Reply Last reply
                              2
                              • mfalkviddM Offline
                                mfalkviddM Offline
                                mfalkvidd
                                Mod
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #760

                                My new workbench is coming along nicely.
                                0_1555441622135_533CC67F-75F9-4E27-B9BE-15796197EC60.jpeg

                                1 Reply Last reply
                                2
                                • mfalkviddM Offline
                                  mfalkviddM Offline
                                  mfalkvidd
                                  Mod
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #761

                                  Top shelf is for network stuff
                                  0_1555446671813_IMG_1208_edit.jpg

                                  zrom69Z 1 Reply Last reply
                                  8
                                  • mfalkviddM mfalkvidd

                                    Top shelf is for network stuff
                                    0_1555446671813_IMG_1208_edit.jpg

                                    zrom69Z Offline
                                    zrom69Z Offline
                                    zrom69
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #762

                                    @mfalkvidd good job

                                    1 Reply Last reply
                                    1
                                    • acbA acb

                                      Built a 1284(p) into a 328p Pro Mini footprint. Not sure what to call it, a Pro Mini XL maybe?

                                      0_1549628124362_328p Pro Mini vs. 1284p Pro Mini XL.jpg

                                      I now have x4 the program memory (128K vs. 32K), x4 the EEPROM (4K vs. 1K) and x8 the SRAM (16K vs. 2K) all in a 328p Pro Mini pin-compatible (I think!) footprint of about same size.

                                      I can also run at 20MHz vs. the usual 8MHz provided I’m prepared to run it at 4.5v and above.

                                      Had to sacrifice a few pins and components, but might be able to put various selections back in future revisions. Nothing major (in my opinion) just components associated with the regulator really. I also went for a crystal (not installed yet, on order, LEDs too..) over a resonator - just a personal preference for when timing is critical.

                                      And yes, those are 0402 SMDs. I actually did them by hand (!) with a microscope and a judicious amount of coffee; a fine-point iron, solder wick and flux became my best friends.

                                      So far, I’ve had it working with nRF24s and RFM69s radios, ATSHA for personalization and external flash for FOTA. The DualOptiboot bootloader code and makefile needed a bit of tweaking, but nothing major.

                                      I broke out the JTAG I/F but haven’t played with that yet and also added power pins next to the I2C to make some of the sensor modules (like SI7021) pluggable - see below.

                                      0_1549628236323_Pro Mini XL with RFM69HW ATSHA EEPROM and SI7021.jpg

                                      I also want to play with the QTouch library support for built-in capacitive touch buttons, sliders, etc.

                                      Why not just go with an ARM (STM32, SAMD, nRF52)?

                                      I’m working on it! ;o)

                                      Am not wanting to start a(nother) 8-bit vs. 32-bit discussion. I’ve got an AliExpress package of 32-bit MCUs coming (very) slowly to me. When it arrives, I’ll start experimenting and exploring - probably with the nRF52s, since those seem to be the flavor-of-the-month and very capable-looking chips...

                                      But until then, I need more program memory!
                                      (Among other things…)

                                      acbA Offline
                                      acbA Offline
                                      acb
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #763

                                      Continuing along the theme of one of my last projects, I built a nRF52832 into a 328p Pro Mini footprint. Made two versions: One with some edge SMA or U.Fl pads and another with a PCB trace antenna:

                                      0_1555494186797_Pro Mini 328p vs. Pro Mini nRF52.jpg

                                      0_1555494248417_Pro Mini 328p vs Pro Mini nRF52.jpg

                                      I wanted to start getting into using 32-bit microcontrollers (ARM Cortex varieties like nRF5x, SAMDs, STMs, etc.) for some more complex HA and other electronics projects and am trying to ease the learning curve from all my 8-bit ATMEGA experience.

                                      Keeping the 328p pin-compatible footprint and PCB size means I can still reuse most of my other Pro Mini project boards to get going. An added bonus is the nRF52's ability to remap (almost) any pins, which will no doubt come in handy.

                                      They’re both two layer boards and I get pretty decent range out of the PCB trace antenna - ever so slightly better RSSI than EByte’s E73-2G4M04S1B, which was surprising since I didn’t really do anything different (that I’m aware of) and their module is shielded too.

                                      Since there’s no need for a separate nRF24 board and other associated components, like external SRAM or ATSHA, it’ll possibly save me a few $ too! Power pins next to the (remappable) I2C pins make some of the sensor modules (like SI7021) pluggable.

                                      I also gain 16x the program memory (512K vs. 32K) and 8x the speed (64MHz vs. 8MHz) which is no small increment!

                                      Some of the project boards I have made use of the Pro Mini 328p’s FTDI pins, so I added a few components to enable the use of an FTDI programmer with custom DFU serial bootloader.

                                      0_1555494282393_FTDI DFU Serial Bootloader - Pro Mini nRF52.jpg

                                      Basically, a DTR pin toggle from the FTDI will reset the nRF52 into a state where it’ll briefly listen for a new program - similar to Adafruit’s Feather. You can also force that state for a longer period with a combination button press like Nordic and SparkFun’s development boards.

                                      I’m unfamiliar with SWD/JTAG programming/debugging and all things GDB/OCD, so I built myself a black magic probe out of a STM32 blue pill and am going to have a play with all of that, along with VS Code and PlatformIO and probably one or two others.

                                      MySensors nRF52 support worked out of the box (!) - so a huge thanks to all the hard work of the folks round here for getting that up and running. If there’s anything I can help with there, please let me know and if I’m able, I’ll try to take a stab at it (OTA maybe?). Like I said, I’ve got quite a steep learning curve here though.

                                      On the low power end, I added the DCDC components Nordic recommend too and managed to get the MySensors smartSleep() current down to around 0.7uA - as per the datasheet, I think. However, I found that with a couple more code tweaks and grounding the SWDCLK, I would get into the nA region. This seems a bit out of spec to me and perhaps it’s just a measuring error, but it was repeatable and the board still happily sending data/heartbeat again each time it woke up. (It’s fluctuating around 1.6nA below - no sensors connected though, but it’s a start…)

                                      0_1555494689754_1.6nA Fluctuating Sleep Current - SWDCLK to GND - Pro Mini nRF52.JPG

                                      One other project in the back of my mind is using this board as the basis for a quadcopter, but that’ll probably have to wait until the summer holidays…!

                                      nagelcN monteM berkseoB 3 Replies Last reply
                                      7
                                      • acbA acb

                                        Continuing along the theme of one of my last projects, I built a nRF52832 into a 328p Pro Mini footprint. Made two versions: One with some edge SMA or U.Fl pads and another with a PCB trace antenna:

                                        0_1555494186797_Pro Mini 328p vs. Pro Mini nRF52.jpg

                                        0_1555494248417_Pro Mini 328p vs Pro Mini nRF52.jpg

                                        I wanted to start getting into using 32-bit microcontrollers (ARM Cortex varieties like nRF5x, SAMDs, STMs, etc.) for some more complex HA and other electronics projects and am trying to ease the learning curve from all my 8-bit ATMEGA experience.

                                        Keeping the 328p pin-compatible footprint and PCB size means I can still reuse most of my other Pro Mini project boards to get going. An added bonus is the nRF52's ability to remap (almost) any pins, which will no doubt come in handy.

                                        They’re both two layer boards and I get pretty decent range out of the PCB trace antenna - ever so slightly better RSSI than EByte’s E73-2G4M04S1B, which was surprising since I didn’t really do anything different (that I’m aware of) and their module is shielded too.

                                        Since there’s no need for a separate nRF24 board and other associated components, like external SRAM or ATSHA, it’ll possibly save me a few $ too! Power pins next to the (remappable) I2C pins make some of the sensor modules (like SI7021) pluggable.

                                        I also gain 16x the program memory (512K vs. 32K) and 8x the speed (64MHz vs. 8MHz) which is no small increment!

                                        Some of the project boards I have made use of the Pro Mini 328p’s FTDI pins, so I added a few components to enable the use of an FTDI programmer with custom DFU serial bootloader.

                                        0_1555494282393_FTDI DFU Serial Bootloader - Pro Mini nRF52.jpg

                                        Basically, a DTR pin toggle from the FTDI will reset the nRF52 into a state where it’ll briefly listen for a new program - similar to Adafruit’s Feather. You can also force that state for a longer period with a combination button press like Nordic and SparkFun’s development boards.

                                        I’m unfamiliar with SWD/JTAG programming/debugging and all things GDB/OCD, so I built myself a black magic probe out of a STM32 blue pill and am going to have a play with all of that, along with VS Code and PlatformIO and probably one or two others.

                                        MySensors nRF52 support worked out of the box (!) - so a huge thanks to all the hard work of the folks round here for getting that up and running. If there’s anything I can help with there, please let me know and if I’m able, I’ll try to take a stab at it (OTA maybe?). Like I said, I’ve got quite a steep learning curve here though.

                                        On the low power end, I added the DCDC components Nordic recommend too and managed to get the MySensors smartSleep() current down to around 0.7uA - as per the datasheet, I think. However, I found that with a couple more code tweaks and grounding the SWDCLK, I would get into the nA region. This seems a bit out of spec to me and perhaps it’s just a measuring error, but it was repeatable and the board still happily sending data/heartbeat again each time it woke up. (It’s fluctuating around 1.6nA below - no sensors connected though, but it’s a start…)

                                        0_1555494689754_1.6nA Fluctuating Sleep Current - SWDCLK to GND - Pro Mini nRF52.JPG

                                        One other project in the back of my mind is using this board as the basis for a quadcopter, but that’ll probably have to wait until the summer holidays…!

                                        nagelcN Offline
                                        nagelcN Offline
                                        nagelc
                                        wrote on last edited by
                                        #764

                                        @acb Nice! I have serious board envy. I really like that clip on programmer too.

                                        1 Reply Last reply
                                        1
                                        • acbA acb

                                          Continuing along the theme of one of my last projects, I built a nRF52832 into a 328p Pro Mini footprint. Made two versions: One with some edge SMA or U.Fl pads and another with a PCB trace antenna:

                                          0_1555494186797_Pro Mini 328p vs. Pro Mini nRF52.jpg

                                          0_1555494248417_Pro Mini 328p vs Pro Mini nRF52.jpg

                                          I wanted to start getting into using 32-bit microcontrollers (ARM Cortex varieties like nRF5x, SAMDs, STMs, etc.) for some more complex HA and other electronics projects and am trying to ease the learning curve from all my 8-bit ATMEGA experience.

                                          Keeping the 328p pin-compatible footprint and PCB size means I can still reuse most of my other Pro Mini project boards to get going. An added bonus is the nRF52's ability to remap (almost) any pins, which will no doubt come in handy.

                                          They’re both two layer boards and I get pretty decent range out of the PCB trace antenna - ever so slightly better RSSI than EByte’s E73-2G4M04S1B, which was surprising since I didn’t really do anything different (that I’m aware of) and their module is shielded too.

                                          Since there’s no need for a separate nRF24 board and other associated components, like external SRAM or ATSHA, it’ll possibly save me a few $ too! Power pins next to the (remappable) I2C pins make some of the sensor modules (like SI7021) pluggable.

                                          I also gain 16x the program memory (512K vs. 32K) and 8x the speed (64MHz vs. 8MHz) which is no small increment!

                                          Some of the project boards I have made use of the Pro Mini 328p’s FTDI pins, so I added a few components to enable the use of an FTDI programmer with custom DFU serial bootloader.

                                          0_1555494282393_FTDI DFU Serial Bootloader - Pro Mini nRF52.jpg

                                          Basically, a DTR pin toggle from the FTDI will reset the nRF52 into a state where it’ll briefly listen for a new program - similar to Adafruit’s Feather. You can also force that state for a longer period with a combination button press like Nordic and SparkFun’s development boards.

                                          I’m unfamiliar with SWD/JTAG programming/debugging and all things GDB/OCD, so I built myself a black magic probe out of a STM32 blue pill and am going to have a play with all of that, along with VS Code and PlatformIO and probably one or two others.

                                          MySensors nRF52 support worked out of the box (!) - so a huge thanks to all the hard work of the folks round here for getting that up and running. If there’s anything I can help with there, please let me know and if I’m able, I’ll try to take a stab at it (OTA maybe?). Like I said, I’ve got quite a steep learning curve here though.

                                          On the low power end, I added the DCDC components Nordic recommend too and managed to get the MySensors smartSleep() current down to around 0.7uA - as per the datasheet, I think. However, I found that with a couple more code tweaks and grounding the SWDCLK, I would get into the nA region. This seems a bit out of spec to me and perhaps it’s just a measuring error, but it was repeatable and the board still happily sending data/heartbeat again each time it woke up. (It’s fluctuating around 1.6nA below - no sensors connected though, but it’s a start…)

                                          0_1555494689754_1.6nA Fluctuating Sleep Current - SWDCLK to GND - Pro Mini nRF52.JPG

                                          One other project in the back of my mind is using this board as the basis for a quadcopter, but that’ll probably have to wait until the summer holidays…!

                                          monteM Offline
                                          monteM Offline
                                          monte
                                          wrote on last edited by
                                          #765

                                          @acb have you written a bootloader yourself, or found already available? Can you tell more about it and a board you using to connect nrf52 to FTDI?
                                          Nice work!

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