A family member gave me an old lamp with a fancy glass base. Well, I didn't like the lamp, but the base was nice, so I kept it in my basement for a few years. I found it again the other day and decided it needed to become a new type of lamp. I put a 150 LED strip (WS2812B) inside. I have an STM32 Blue Bill and RFM69HCW to run the light patterns and connect to MySensors.
In Domoticz, I have it set up as a dimmer light, but the node just switches patterns depending on what the dimmer level is.
At first, I wrapped the LED strip carefully around a tube that sits in the center of the glass jar, but it didn't look very good. Somehow just spiraling the strip in the bottom of the lamp has a much better effect.
My wife even liked it, so maybe I will put some finishing touches on it and actually use it as a lamp : )

I've been playing with an Adafruit AudioFX board and cobbled together this annunciator. Eventually it will be a MySensors node to play alarms or other sounds. It is using a cheap portable speaker to play the sounds. I got it to work with my doorbell button node today.

Just got a blue-pill, RFM69 node working. It was a bit of a learning curve moving from Atmega.

• Cheap J-Link: Never got it working. Cheap ST-Link: Worked
• Arduino (and VisualMicro) uploaded blink sketch with ST-Link: no problems
• Uploaded the USB bootloader using the ST-Link: no problems
• Took a while to figure out I didn't have the dfu driver loaded (Windows 10), but after that no problems using the usb
• MySensors security personalizer: no problems.
• Mock MySensors node: no problems. Talked to my gateway. Uses RFM69 encryption.

Seems like this is the Nano of the future, but without needing to level shift for 3.3V. I'm looking forward to making some real blue pill nodes and gateways.

BT832 Thin Node prototype. Inspired by https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/2067/my-slim-2aa-battery-node and @neverdie nrf5 and am612 research. I noticed the BT832 is about the same width as a AA battery holder. I'm using one AA LiFePo4. This is my first sensor with nrf5, bme280, and am612. I also incorporated a jst-sh 6 pin connector for programming. It includes swd, power, and text. All sensors are working. It did not turn out to be very thin. Need to try some smaller PIR lenses and rearrange components for the next iteration.

@mfalkvidd Thanks for doing this kind of work (deleting fake users and stopping spam). I am sure it is not as much fun as answering real questions about MySensors topics. But I learn so much from people in these forums, that I would hate to see it overtaken by trolls and spam.

Unlike the NRF24, the RFM69 is not 5V tolerant on the data pins. The Uno and Nano both have 5V data pins. The NRF24 can work with them as long as it has the 3.3V supply. Unfortunately, the RFM69 needs the data pins to be 3.3V also.
I have used the RFM69 915Mhz successfully with a 3.3V ProMini (all pins 3.3V). To use with the Uno or Nano, you would need to power from the 3.3V supply and use a 5V to 3.3V level shifter on the NSS, MOSI, and SCK data pins.

I finally got a BT832 (NRF52832 from Fanstel) to talk to my NRF24 gateway. I got the NFR5s a while ago. Made a quick breakout board (quick to design, but slow delivery). In the mean time, I configured a STM32 "Blue Pill" as a Blackmagic Probe to program it. I had to get the latest Sandeep Mistry NRF5 files from github in order for it to support the blackmagic probe, but . . . it worked : ) So far I have just run the MockMySensors and it shows up on Domoticz.

@NeverDie
There is an article on hackaday about this type of clamp that even has a KiCAD footprint. I bought one of the clips, but haven't tried it out yet.
https://hackaday.io/project/165917-soicbite-programmingdebug-connector-footprint

I also tried this one from Adafruit;
https://www.adafruit.com/product/4048
small, jlink-mini compatible, and polarized.

So far, my preferrred solution is a 6 pin jst-sh connector.
small. 3v3, gnd, swdio, swclk, tx, rx
and polarized.

My old eyes get tired of confirming I have the pins on in the right direction. Polarization is really nice.

@sundberg84
@tbowmo
Domoticz can also push the data to influx DB. See Settings>More Options>Data Push

It's a breakout for a Fanstel BT832 (NRF52832). Two experiments with this board, still a work in progress:

• I wondered if it would be possible to hand solder to the LGA pads on the back of the BT832 using small plated thru holes (6 solder spots middle left in the first picture). Two pads connected. The rest did not. About what I expected.

• Using just the microprocessor of the BT832 to make a LoRa node. (NRF5 radio turned off). So far the Ra-01 is not initializing. Edit (10/8). The RA-01 now initializes. I needed to update the pin assignments in MyBoardNRF5.h.

@NeverDie
It isn't very scientific, but I think the range is roughly equivalent to a BT832. I can reach my gateway from everywhere in my house except the far corner of the basement, same as the BT. That corner is behind a chimney an lots of plumbing -- RFM69 territory. Maybe the BT832F would work there. Haven't tried those.
After fixing a missing trace on my dev board (my fault, not Oshpark's), and updating my J-link and bmp software. I am able to program these.

I popped the shield off of one just to confirm I ordered the right version. The part numbering vs processor is not very clear on Aliexpress. No surprises there.

I received a few of the Minew MS50SFB modules. They appear to need unlocking similar to the E73 modules. I have tried using instructions as for E73, but no luck so far with either
gdb
https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/9266/guide-nrf5-nrf51-nrf52-for-beginners/54?_=1598203470928
acts like it is working, but doesn't really unlock the module.

or J-link
https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/9266/guide-nrf5-nrf51-nrf52-for-beginners/33?_=1598203470928
returns error from nrfjprob. In J-Link application can not connect

Yes it is possible, using the SWDIO and SWDCLK pads.
I programmed one to operate with MySensors using a black magic probe, but the J-Link also supports SWD programming.
The tricky part is connecting to the pads. I just soldered on some wires -- not a very elegant solution, but it worked.

You can get a reasonably priced J-Link EDU from Adafruit:
https://www.adafruit.com/product/3571

Hi @David-Marlinge
I have struggled with these meters in Domoticz also. I am using an S_Power meter for an energy monitor which looks like what you are using. This is my understanding:

The value on the top of the bar is the power you have most recently sent (in Watts).
Domoticz calculates kWh from the watts and the time it was sent.
kWh used today is shown on the Utility screen (your 2036.992).
Overall kWh is what is shown on the device tab (your 2311414.016).

I present an S_POWER device, then measure the current and multiply by the voltage to get the power in watts. Then I send that with a V_WATT message. I don't calculate the kWh. Domoticz calculates kWh from the Watts I send and time I send it.

For example:

present(CHILD_ID_PWR, S_POWER, "Emon 38/26H");
. . . . . . . .
MyMessage Msg_Pwr(CHILD_ID_POWER, V_WATT);
. . . . . . 
send(Msg_Pwr.set(Pwr, 1));

Then the Pwr value should show up in that top bar. Domoticz will calculate the kWh used based on the time of the power updates.
I have not really used the V_KWH variable, so I'm not sure how that fits in with this one.

Cool!
I have some E78's laying around because they seemed like a nice processor/radio package. But that looked like too big a project for my skills.
I'm going to have to dig them out now that there might be a path to get them to work with MySensors.

@TRS-80 I have similar thoughts for a controller for my heater (hot water radiators with an oil boiler and 4 zones).

For 1 and 2, I realized I could wire my node into the zone controller. It has a common, so I can derive the node power from the controller. Since it works over radio, it doesn't have to be where the old thermostat was. I have temperature sensors in all the rooms.

The node controls 4 solid state relays that are wired in parallel with the existing zone thermostats. That helps with 5. The idea was to set the conventional thermostats at a low value. Then if my node failed, at least the old thermostats would kick the heater on before the pipes started to freeze. Also as a fail safe, if the node has the heat on and doesn't hear from the controller periodically, it will shut off. Still working on that part.

As for controlling it, there is a domoticz plug in here: https://www.domoticz.com/wiki/Plugins/Smart_Virtual_Thermostat.html
It only works for heat, but the underlying code is pretty straight forward, and it lets you average sensors. There might be something there you can adopt. I ran it with a MySensors modified space heater all last winter and it worked well.

Unfortunately, something kept killing the radio on my node, maybe a spike from zone controller relays. I haven't sorted it out yet, so the heater thermostat remains a work in progress.

I had a similar problem with weather sensors, but it was a while ago and Domoticz has been updated since then.
I was presenting temp, hum, baro. Domoticz always assumed it was a weather sensor if I presented the baro -- and the humidity wouldn't update. It didn't matter if I used separate child IDs or the same one.
I really only wanted temperature and humidity, so I quit presenting the baro and the Domoticz temp/hum has always worked well.
I just assumed I was doing something wrong, but your problem sounds similar. Maybe it's a Domoticz bug.

Does anyone have any experience with the minew modules?

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000111771020.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.355350384gOEfO&algo_pvid=0304e5fd-2ee1-4b3c-8324-d7457ed54a60&algo_expid=0304e5fd-2ee1-4b3c-8324-d7457ed54a60-3&btsid=0ab50f4415945033578573060e726c&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_

I've been using the Fanstel BT832 series with success, but I have been looking at this one to get a few more hand-solderable GPIOs.

If you haven't done so, copy the MyBoardNRF5.h and .cpp files to the same directory as your sketch.

Also, your configuration shows S132 (SoftDevice). Soft Device is not supported for MySensors, so pick None.

@BearWithBeard said in GUIDE - NRF5 / NRF51 / NRF52 for beginners:

From the two ports the BMP provides, you want to use the GDB Server. If Windows only provides generic names for both ("USB Serial Device" or something), the one with the lower number should be the right choice.

Strangely, my BMP uses the higher port number as the GDB server and the lower one as the serial port. I think this is unusual since it is opposite of what most guides say to expect. So, try the higher one if the lower one doesn't work.