A family member gave me an old lamp with a fancy glass base. Well, I didn't like the lamp, but the base was nice, so I kept it in my basement for a few years. I found it again the other day and decided it needed to become a new type of lamp. I put a 150 LED strip (WS2812B) inside. I have an STM32 Blue Bill and RFM69HCW to run the light patterns and connect to MySensors.
In Domoticz, I have it set up as a dimmer light, but the node just switches patterns depending on what the dimmer level is.
At first, I wrapped the LED strip carefully around a tube that sits in the center of the glass jar, but it didn't look very good. Somehow just spiraling the strip in the bottom of the lamp has a much better effect.
My wife even liked it, so maybe I will put some finishing touches on it and actually use it as a lamp : )

@berkseo
Hey. Our own berkseo is on Hackaday. Congrats!

https://hackaday.com/2021/03/11/nrf52-weather-station-gives-forecast-with-style/

I've been playing with an Adafruit AudioFX board and cobbled together this annunciator. Eventually it will be a MySensors node to play alarms or other sounds. It is using a cheap portable speaker to play the sounds. I got it to work with my doorbell button node today.

Just got a blue-pill, RFM69 node working. It was a bit of a learning curve moving from Atmega.

• Cheap J-Link: Never got it working. Cheap ST-Link: Worked
• Arduino (and VisualMicro) uploaded blink sketch with ST-Link: no problems
• Uploaded the USB bootloader using the ST-Link: no problems
• Took a while to figure out I didn't have the dfu driver loaded (Windows 10), but after that no problems using the usb
• MySensors security personalizer: no problems.
• Mock MySensors node: no problems. Talked to my gateway. Uses RFM69 encryption.

Seems like this is the Nano of the future, but without needing to level shift for 3.3V. I'm looking forward to making some real blue pill nodes and gateways.

BT832 Thin Node prototype. Inspired by https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/2067/my-slim-2aa-battery-node and @neverdie nrf5 and am612 research. I noticed the BT832 is about the same width as a AA battery holder. I'm using one AA LiFePo4. This is my first sensor with nrf5, bme280, and am612. I also incorporated a jst-sh 6 pin connector for programming. It includes swd, power, and text. All sensors are working. It did not turn out to be very thin. Need to try some smaller PIR lenses and rearrange components for the next iteration.

I am testing a node with a DigiPyro, PYD 1598 motion detector. It is advertised to be low power and runs from 1.8 to 3.6 volts, so should run well with a coin cell. They have to be programmed with several options and I have not found a lot of documentation. I went with what seemed like the most sensitive choices and it seems to work so far. More research needed . ...
https://www.excelitas.com/product/pyd-1588-pyd-1598-low-power-digipyros

I bought a couple of these from DigiKey for around $4 each. Now they are more than $12 each and there is no stock. So, these may not be as good a choice as they seemed at first. We'll see . ...

@mfalkvidd Thanks for doing this kind of work (deleting fake users and stopping spam). I am sure it is not as much fun as answering real questions about MySensors topics. But I learn so much from people in these forums, that I would hate to see it overtaken by trolls and spam.

@Yveaux
Another experiment, using 2mm machined pins and sockets. Since the RFM69HCW and the RFM95's share the same pinout, I could switch radios easily for testing.

Unlike the NRF24, the RFM69 is not 5V tolerant on the data pins. The Uno and Nano both have 5V data pins. The NRF24 can work with them as long as it has the 3.3V supply. Unfortunately, the RFM69 needs the data pins to be 3.3V also.
I have used the RFM69 915Mhz successfully with a 3.3V ProMini (all pins 3.3V). To use with the Uno or Nano, you would need to power from the 3.3V supply and use a 5V to 3.3V level shifter on the NSS, MOSI, and SCK data pins.

I finally got a BT832 (NRF52832 from Fanstel) to talk to my NRF24 gateway. I got the NFR5s a while ago. Made a quick breakout board (quick to design, but slow delivery). In the mean time, I configured a STM32 "Blue Pill" as a Blackmagic Probe to program it. I had to get the latest Sandeep Mistry NRF5 files from github in order for it to support the blackmagic probe, but . . . it worked : ) So far I have just run the MockMySensors and it shows up on Domoticz.

@ejlane
Yeah. I did this a while ago and I will have to dig into my notes to figure it out. I don't recall how I combined the STM code with tekka's multiple transport (which i think was in the development branch already), but it was not much more than cut and paste. I have an NRF24 and an RFM69 running on one and an RFM95 on another. I can figure out the details when I get back home in May.

@mfalkvidd

I have a multi-transport gateway running on an STM32F411 black pill using the KooLru code with arduino. It pretty much just worked.
I don't know about sleep however. I've mostly used the blue pills and black pills for powered things like gateways.

There is also this: https://github.com/mysensors-rus/STM32_Mysensors_bootloader

and this: https://www.seeedstudio.com/LoRa-E5-Wireless-Module-p-4745.html?queryID=5241719889282ea5031374c599ebc867&objectID=4745&indexName=bazaar_retailer_products

Which makes me think a MCU/LoRA with potential for OTA updates is not far out of reach.

But it would take a better coder than me : )

I'm wondering if anyone has experience with the SEEED LORA-E5 Module, or the STM32WLE5JC.

It is an interesting looking module:

https://www.seeedstudio.com/LoRa-E5-Wireless-Module-Tape-Reel-p-5302.html

It has STM32WLE5JC, ARM Cortex-M4 and SX126x embedded and is aimed at IOT. Arduino has a Generic STM32WLE5JC board type. Seems like this combo might not be too difficult to slot into MySensors using the RFM95 libraries.

It would be nice to have a sub-gHZ radio and processor in the same module,

Happy New Year to all!

I hope 2022 brings you good times and some fun new IOT projects!

I just downloaded KiCad 6.0 as a present to myself, so I predict some new PCB designs are in my future for 2022 : )

Hi @wackowizzard. Welcome to the MySensors site.

Take a look at some of the projects on OpenHardware.io https://www.openhardware.io/explore It will give you many examples of different sensor projects. Most projects just do one thing. Temperature and Humidity or motion are the most common. A few do use many of the sensors you want. See Berk's https://www.openhardware.io/view/8259/Air-quality-and-weather-forecast-sensor for example.

The MySensors framework is supported by Home Assistant.
Battery or wire power will depend mostly on the power consumption of you sensors. Many can be quite low power and run for years on batteries. This is common topic of discussion in the forums.

If you read through the "Getting Started" and "Build" sections on the MySensors site, you will get a lot of information and ideas about how to build the sensor you described.

@KevinT Very cool.
How does it respond to the PIR. Does it stop the door if it sees motion?

@Max-Kurilov
Hi Max. I can't help with the Vera, but there is a log parser here: https://www.mysensors.org/build/parser
that might make debugging the MySensors messages a little easier.

What the "right" controller is depends a lot on what you are looking for. When I first found MySensors, Vera was pretty much the standard. The controller world has evolved a lot since then. Probably looking at recent posts in the controller forum will give you a sense of what people are using now. I would be interesting to do a true survey.

@electrik

It's actually at this link posted earlier in the thread: What did you build today (Pictures) ?:
I mostly use it with BME280 modules for temperature and humidity, but I have tried some other I2C modules in it.
I'm still experimenting with the motion detector. That will probably get it's own board at some point. It doesn't really fit the enclosure I designed this board for.

I made a simple board to use as a CR2032 battery simulator. It is actually two identical pcb's back to back. I added pins for applying power and another set for measuring current. Now I need a better ammeter. The uA scale works well when sleeping, but the mA scale doesn't seem to pick up the awake current.

Another outside influence may just be Covid and Work From Home.
I have been very fortunate to be able to work from home over the past year, but I find at the end of the day I abandon my computer and my office and don't return. My hobbies are heavily computer based and have suffered. I often think about new cool sensors and what project to tackle next, but my hobby environment feels too much like my work environment. I'm going to have to rethink that going forward because at least some work from home seems like it will be the new normal.