A family member gave me an old lamp with a fancy glass base. Well, I didn't like the lamp, but the base was nice, so I kept it in my basement for a few years. I found it again the other day and decided it needed to become a new type of lamp. I put a 150 LED strip (WS2812B) inside. I have an STM32 Blue Bill and RFM69HCW to run the light patterns and connect to MySensors.
In Domoticz, I have it set up as a dimmer light, but the node just switches patterns depending on what the dimmer level is.
At first, I wrapped the LED strip carefully around a tube that sits in the center of the glass jar, but it didn't look very good. Somehow just spiraling the strip in the bottom of the lamp has a much better effect.
My wife even liked it, so maybe I will put some finishing touches on it and actually use it as a lamp : )

@berkseo
Hey. Our own berkseo is on Hackaday. Congrats!

https://hackaday.com/2021/03/11/nrf52-weather-station-gives-forecast-with-style/

I've been playing with an Adafruit AudioFX board and cobbled together this annunciator. Eventually it will be a MySensors node to play alarms or other sounds. It is using a cheap portable speaker to play the sounds. I got it to work with my doorbell button node today.

Just got a blue-pill, RFM69 node working. It was a bit of a learning curve moving from Atmega.

• Cheap J-Link: Never got it working. Cheap ST-Link: Worked
• Arduino (and VisualMicro) uploaded blink sketch with ST-Link: no problems
• Uploaded the USB bootloader using the ST-Link: no problems
• Took a while to figure out I didn't have the dfu driver loaded (Windows 10), but after that no problems using the usb
• MySensors security personalizer: no problems.
• Mock MySensors node: no problems. Talked to my gateway. Uses RFM69 encryption.

Seems like this is the Nano of the future, but without needing to level shift for 3.3V. I'm looking forward to making some real blue pill nodes and gateways.

BT832 Thin Node prototype. Inspired by https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/2067/my-slim-2aa-battery-node and @neverdie nrf5 and am612 research. I noticed the BT832 is about the same width as a AA battery holder. I'm using one AA LiFePo4. This is my first sensor with nrf5, bme280, and am612. I also incorporated a jst-sh 6 pin connector for programming. It includes swd, power, and text. All sensors are working. It did not turn out to be very thin. Need to try some smaller PIR lenses and rearrange components for the next iteration.

I am testing a node with a DigiPyro, PYD 1598 motion detector. It is advertised to be low power and runs from 1.8 to 3.6 volts, so should run well with a coin cell. They have to be programmed with several options and I have not found a lot of documentation. I went with what seemed like the most sensitive choices and it seems to work so far. More research needed . ...
https://www.excelitas.com/product/pyd-1588-pyd-1598-low-power-digipyros

I bought a couple of these from DigiKey for around $4 each. Now they are more than $12 each and there is no stock. So, these may not be as good a choice as they seemed at first. We'll see . ...

@mfalkvidd Thanks for doing this kind of work (deleting fake users and stopping spam). I am sure it is not as much fun as answering real questions about MySensors topics. But I learn so much from people in these forums, that I would hate to see it overtaken by trolls and spam.

@Yveaux
Another experiment, using 2mm machined pins and sockets. Since the RFM69HCW and the RFM95's share the same pinout, I could switch radios easily for testing.

Unlike the NRF24, the RFM69 is not 5V tolerant on the data pins. The Uno and Nano both have 5V data pins. The NRF24 can work with them as long as it has the 3.3V supply. Unfortunately, the RFM69 needs the data pins to be 3.3V also.
I have used the RFM69 915Mhz successfully with a 3.3V ProMini (all pins 3.3V). To use with the Uno or Nano, you would need to power from the 3.3V supply and use a 5V to 3.3V level shifter on the NSS, MOSI, and SCK data pins.

I finally got a BT832 (NRF52832 from Fanstel) to talk to my NRF24 gateway. I got the NFR5s a while ago. Made a quick breakout board (quick to design, but slow delivery). In the mean time, I configured a STM32 "Blue Pill" as a Blackmagic Probe to program it. I had to get the latest Sandeep Mistry NRF5 files from github in order for it to support the blackmagic probe, but . . . it worked : ) So far I have just run the MockMySensors and it shows up on Domoticz.

Oops. I wasn't very clear.
My split coil has a cable with an audio plug on the end. Like this one:
https://www.electrodragon.com/product/yhdc-non-invasive-ac-current-sensor-100a30a/
So I used an audio jack on the board to plug the split coil into. That makes it easy to swap different rating coils. The picture above is 100A, but I'm using the 30A coil for the car charger.
Then the coil goes around one of the power wires going out to the charger.
A real car : )

Roll your own MySensors version can be surprisingly simple from a hardware perspective. I did this to monitor my electric car. Plug a split coil to the audio jack:

The thinking about it part, not so easy! Good reference site:
https://learn.openenergymonitor.org

C and R depend on your split coil. Calibration is a real challenge. For my car, I know what it draws from plugging into commercial chargers, and I was not worried about precision. For unknown loads around the house, you would have to have something known to calibrate against. Also, the coil has to go around 1 leg of the power wiring. which means you need an adapter cable with the line and neutral split out (but still insulated).

Hi @electrik

You can program these ibeacons to work with MySensors.
I reprogrammed one by soldering some wires to a jlink adapter. Not elegant, but it worked.
Some type of push pin setup would be good if you are going to actually use these modules.

The version I got had only a button on the board, and no way to easily add any other sensors, so they weren't very useful. It would be interesting to try the ones with the temperature and acceleromator.

@berkseo
Hey. Our own berkseo is on Hackaday. Congrats!

https://hackaday.com/2021/03/11/nrf52-weather-station-gives-forecast-with-style/

The Hammond 1551V series are good for a coin cell based temperature / humidity sensor:

https://www.newark.com/hammond/1551v1gy/enclosure-small-abs-grey/dp/84AC4152?st=1551v

It has just enough room for a NRF5 module, temp/humidity sensor module, and a coin cell battery.
And, it is not too ugly for sticking on a wall in your house.

If you want a little more space for your circuit board, you can go with the 1551v3gy.

@skywatch These used the Fanstel BT832. Not sure about the bootloader. I just programmed them as they came. I programmed them using Arduino and the MySensors MyBoardNRF5 files, and a black magic probe for the programmer.

I know what you mean.
I have several Pi's. I upgraded them from Stretch to Buster using instructions found here https://pimylifeup.com/upgrade-raspbian-stretch-to-raspbian-buster/

I only got the courage to ugrade my domoticz server after having upgraded 3 others first with no problems.
But it did work.

I recently completed an experiment with 2 nearly identical nodes and had very good results just using @NeverDie MySleepPrepare() without any other real effort to reduce power consumption.
The nodes were NRF52832 and BME280. One with a CR2032 Coin cell and the other with a LiFePo4 (AAA size). The CR2032 lasted a little longer in this application.
I stopped when the CR2032 dropped below 1.8V because that was the low voltage rating for both the processor and the BME, but the node still appeared to be working normally.

Vertical axis is volts. Horizontal axis is days.

Wow. Very cool! Now I'm thinking of some similar projects I need to do for Summer.

I have 2 motion sensors on Domoticz, and they both show the battery level.
Maybe it is because your level doesn't get sent often enough. I do send a battery level every 30 minutes even if the value hasn't changed (which is way too often. But, I am still experimenting with these nodes.)
Or, maybe it has to do with the Domoticz version. My Domoticz version is 2020.2