DIY Outdoor LED

[activemind]

I am trying to do something similar but I plan to embed controller in each one of these nodes along with motion and ambient light sensor.

So far the most cost effective seems to be to take one of these and modify it for 12V and add mySensor circuit to it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10W-20W-30W-50W-Led-High-Flood-Light-Lamp-Outdoor-12V-110V-Day-Warm-White-RGB-/191027296073?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item2c7a1d3749

How do I power MYS board with 12V?

-AM

[bjornhallberg]

So, the LEDs I ordered from Ebay got lost in shipping. What are the odds. Happened maybe two times out of 250 Ebay orders. I've been refunded of course but I now doubt I will continue down this track. Thinking of going back to 230V and relays instead + some cheap fixtures from IKEA.

@activemind Not a bad idea with the flood light housing, seeing as it is so difficult to find outdoor housings. I just hope they used stainless screws and bolts.

The Arduino Pro Mini could theoretically accept 12V on the RAW pin. If that is a good idea and a long term solution I don't know. Buck converters are pretty cheap and have worked with the Pro Mini and Radio Module when I've tested them. But I'm sure if I had looked at them using an oscilloscope I would feel different.

[korttoma]

I have a few nodes of Pro Minis that I power with 12VDC on the RAW pin. Have not had any trouble so far but I use high quality 12VDC power supplies that do not exceed that 12V. Exceeding 12VDC will burn the regulator on your Pro Mini. To be safe you could always add another regulator between the 12V supply and the raw pin.

[activemind]

@bjornhallberg - I looked at Ikea stuff but its too hard to modify. I did have 2 of the flood lights come in...they are 110V version, plan on disassembing one tonite. I will the pics up.

What I am thinking is take these housing and modify the LED if need be and stick one of these MySensor circuit in there. I think all can be done for < $20.

[activemind]

@korttoma - Good to know that 12V should be fine because as I posted above, I plan on using the above housing and modify it for 12V DC operation. I have a server grade high amp 12V DC power supply that I plan on using for all these lights and it would be good if I could use the same 12V for powering mySensor node as the LEDs.

-AM

[rvendrame]

I can't say the same as @korttoma --- I burned some pro minis (in fact, cheap clones) by applying 12V at RAW pin. I think the on-board regulator of my clones has 12V as absolute maximum. And I had to learn it in the hard way... ;-)

After i to put a 78L05 between 12V and Arduino's VCC pin (as well as a 78L33 between 12V and radio), everything worked pretty well.

[korttoma]

@rvendrame yeah, that is how I would recommend to do also. An additional regulators are worth it, just to be safe.

[activemind]

Bringing back and old thread from the dead as I have some time now to spend on this.

Did some more research on Amazon and ended up ordering these LED lights

http://www.amazon.com/Lemonbest®-Outdoor-Decorative-Lighting-Landscape/dp/B012VLSYJE?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

Planning on using MYS board to control these.

http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/207/my-sensorboard-mys-1-0beta

I have 2 questions:

1. These are 12V and MyS board can take 12V input too. So I can power them off using the same 12V wire. Shall I use a relay to control these lights ? Couldnt find the current draw but I plan on measuring it once I get them in.

2. Should I try to embed the myS board in the light case or look into an external waterproof plastic box? These are going to be outdoors.

-AM

[mfalkvidd]

@activemind said:

1. These are 12V and MyS board can take 12V input too. So I can power them off using the same 12V wire. Shall I use a relay to control these lights ? Couldnt find the current draw but I plan on measuring it once I get them in.

They are rated for 5W. 12V/5W=2,4A

Edit: NO, 5W/12V=0.42A. My bad.

[mfalkvidd]

@activemind said:

2. Should I try to embed the myS board in the light case or look into an external waterproof plastic box? These are going to be outdoors.

The case seems to be made if aluminum. That will probably block radio signals. So if you're planning to use radio, go for a plastic box.

[activemind]

Thanks for the feeback. You make good points. I will plan for an external waterproof box for all mysensors circuitry.

Does using a FET sound good or shall I use a relay?

Something like this should be pretty inexpensive..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mos-fet-40v-190amp-for-3k-5k-6k-main-baord-of-12v-power-inverter-/322048034708?hash=item4afb8f0794:g:piQAAOSwHgVW8Ps0&vxp=mtr

-AM

[activemind]

Or something like this would be better:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-High-Level-1-Channel-Relay-Module-Trigger-Expansion-Board-for-Arduino-Relays-/361353342158?hash=item5422566cce:g:fzQAAOSwjVVVn09H

-AM

[mfalkvidd]

There is no information on which mosfet in the ebay listing. I would one that has a name/number so the data sheet can be looked up. The MySensors store recommends IRLZ44N.

Downside with mosfet: can become hot, might need a heat sink
Upside with mosfet: can be used to dim the lights

By the way, how are you planning to get the power to the units? 12V from your house into the garden? In that case you might get problems if your garden is large, transferring power over long distances with low voltage is hard.

[activemind]

Will the FET get hot even with 2.4A when its rated for much more?

I am thinking of building one node and trying it out to see if there is any fallout. This will be for my landscape lights so its not like it will be running 24/7.

The plan IS to run a 14/2 wire running 12V. I could do 12/2 if the voltage drop is too bad. My runs should not be obscenely long...I guess I will have to just try and see what the drop is.

Thanks again for all your feedback.

-AM

[mfalkvidd]

@activemind said:

Will the FET get hot even with 2.4A when its rated for much more?

Probably not. As long as you check the rating you should be fine.

The plan IS to run a 14/2 wire running 12V. I could do 12/2 if the voltage drop is too bad. My runs should not be obscenely long...I guess I will have to just try and see what the drop is.

14 AWG has a resistance of 0.00829 ohm per meter (source). Assuming you have 15m from the outlet to the light, the resistance in the cable will be 0.2487 ohm (0.00829 * 15 * 2). At 2.4A that will result in a voltage drop of 2.4 * 0.2487=0,60V. That shouldn't be a problem.

If the distance from the outlet to the lights is longer, and you want to connect multiple lights without running multiple cables, the calculation doesn't look very good. Let's say the cable needs to be 30m and you want 5 lights, then we have a cable resistance of 0.00829 * 30 * 2=0.5 ohm and a voltage drop of 2.4 * 5 * 0.5=6V :exclamation:
12 AWG will give you 0.00521 * 30 * 2=0.3126 ohm and 2.4 * 5 * 0.3126=3,75V voltage drop which also might be too much.

[activemind]

I would put my distance around 20m so that should be okay but I DO plan on putting multiple of these on a single run hence larger current!

I really dont want to do multiple runs.

Two options:

1. I need to see how bright the light is with < 12V ?
2. Use some regulator to bump up the voltage at the location. I will be building a seperate box anyways to house the FET and MySensors circuitry, so maybe put a regulator there?

What do you think?

-AM

[mfalkvidd]

Option 2 would require larger current (2.4A at 12V will require at least 4.8A at 6V) so the problem just gets worse. Better to increase the voltage, maybe run 24V and regulate down to 12V at each light?

[activemind]

@mfalkvidd
But i already have server grade 12v power supplies and i dont want to buy new ones.

Is the LED really going to draw 2.4A? I will hook up one today and measure.

What's the max safe amount of current i can carry on 14/2 LV wire?

If push comes to shove, i might do multiple runs 😢

-AM

[Boots33]

@activemind

Each led would draw around 410ma
5/12=.416

[mfalkvidd]

According to http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm the limit for 14 awg is 5.9A.