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Small wall outlet sensor node

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  • axillentA axillent

    @Jan-Gatzke originally a pre-loaded MCU were soldered but later I solder on top of the PCB a 6 pin ISP connectors
    There is no need to source DHT from the MCU pin, it is simple to put delay at the beginning of setup or use highest startup time by fuses (my choice)

    the original idea is to use pogopin connector, but I've just ordered them and not yet received. I need a very small footprint ISP connector for Mysensors devices

    @bjornhallberg said:

    Just a fair warning for anyone considering a new ("5th generation") Makerbot Replicator. Check up on some reviews before getting one.

    have no experience with 5th generation but fully agree with you that there are many alternatives

    Also, the Makerbot software is painfully slow compared to most alternatives.

    it is not true. I'm very satisfied with the performance of the software.
    I do not believe that someone can be faster than instantaneous

    Finally, I'm skeptical about the legal details surrounding Thingiverse.

    what kind of issues?

    bjornhallbergB Offline
    bjornhallbergB Offline
    bjornhallberg
    Hero Member
    wrote on last edited by
    #30

    @axillent said:

    Also, the Makerbot software is painfully slow compared to most alternatives.

    it is not true. I'm very satisfied with the performance of the software.
    I do not believe that someone can be faster than instantaneous

    I meant slicing speeds on very complex models specifically. But it would not surprise me if the print quality / toolpaths created are better with competing software as well.

    Finally, I'm skeptical about the legal details surrounding Thingiverse.

    what kind of issues?

    Like Facebook and other big corporations where they basically own the data you upload and store on their servers.

    Oh, also, bonus points to Makerbot / Stratasys for actually stealing technology and incorporating it into their own designs:
    http://3dprintingindustry.com/2014/05/28/makerbot-become-takerbot/

    Bottom line, your Replicator 2 is in many ways better than the current line-up from Makerbot. Mostly because the extruder will last you many thousands of hours and not just 200-500 or whatever they guarantee these days when people come complaining.

    The biggest joke is perhaps their massive Z18 printer, which costs a fortune, puts out dismal results (at least without a ton of tweaking if at all possible), can't handle ABS and is really slow. Plus having the same lousy extruder. I mean, 200 hours on the Z18 could translate into just 10 reasonably big print jobs. They actually got one at my local Makerspace. :dizzy_face: They could have gotten two ordinary printers for the price of that one ...

    axillentA 1 Reply Last reply
    0
    • bjornhallbergB bjornhallberg

      @axillent said:

      Also, the Makerbot software is painfully slow compared to most alternatives.

      it is not true. I'm very satisfied with the performance of the software.
      I do not believe that someone can be faster than instantaneous

      I meant slicing speeds on very complex models specifically. But it would not surprise me if the print quality / toolpaths created are better with competing software as well.

      Finally, I'm skeptical about the legal details surrounding Thingiverse.

      what kind of issues?

      Like Facebook and other big corporations where they basically own the data you upload and store on their servers.

      Oh, also, bonus points to Makerbot / Stratasys for actually stealing technology and incorporating it into their own designs:
      http://3dprintingindustry.com/2014/05/28/makerbot-become-takerbot/

      Bottom line, your Replicator 2 is in many ways better than the current line-up from Makerbot. Mostly because the extruder will last you many thousands of hours and not just 200-500 or whatever they guarantee these days when people come complaining.

      The biggest joke is perhaps their massive Z18 printer, which costs a fortune, puts out dismal results (at least without a ton of tweaking if at all possible), can't handle ABS and is really slow. Plus having the same lousy extruder. I mean, 200 hours on the Z18 could translate into just 10 reasonably big print jobs. They actually got one at my local Makerspace. :dizzy_face: They could have gotten two ordinary printers for the price of that one ...

      axillentA Offline
      axillentA Offline
      axillent
      Mod
      wrote on last edited by axillent
      #31

      @bjornhallberg bad to know that new models are worse

      actually had no plans to upgrade. For the nearest feature I'm fine with Repl2.
      it is also important that I made a required tuning and able to recover many things by myself
      already have an experience and know what to expect

      I do not think my models complicated but the slicing speed was improved by handred times in the first year of the purchase
      today i have to wait almost none before printing starts

      what is even more important - raft support was improved revolutionary. Before it was sucks to print surface on the raft - it became ugly and unacceptable as a from panel. Now all are very different

      sense and drive

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      • Johnny B GoodJ Offline
        Johnny B GoodJ Offline
        Johnny B Good
        wrote on last edited by
        #32

        Great project axillent +1

        -= GreetingZzz and may the sensors be with you =-

        axillentA 1 Reply Last reply
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        • Johnny B GoodJ Johnny B Good

          Great project axillent +1

          axillentA Offline
          axillentA Offline
          axillent
          Mod
          wrote on last edited by
          #33

          @Johnny-B-Good thanks!

          sense and drive

          D 1 Reply Last reply
          1
          • axillentA axillent

            @Johnny-B-Good thanks!

            D Offline
            D Offline
            Dheeraj
            Plugin Developer
            wrote on last edited by
            #34

            @axillent

            very nice

            1 Reply Last reply
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            • J Jan Gatzke

              @axillent How do you upload the sketch? Do you solder in a preprogrammed atmega or are there connectors on the board? The DHT needs only 1.5 mA. Wouldn't it be possible to supply this with an digital out pin of the atmega? This way you could delay the power up process.

              axillentA Offline
              axillentA Offline
              axillent
              Mod
              wrote on last edited by
              #35

              @Jan-Gatzke said:

              @axillent How do you upload the sketch?

              do you mean a .zip file or the inline source?
              for inline I have to add leading spaces to all lines (it is simple to to in Atmel Studio) and than just past it here

              sense and drive

              1 Reply Last reply
              0
              • S Offline
                S Offline
                sharath krishna
                wrote on last edited by
                #36

                @axillent i wanted some more information along with the schematics.. like the wattage of the resistors used and also the type and voltage rating of the capacitors . Please could you provide the same ?

                axillentA 1 Reply Last reply
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                • S sharath krishna

                  @axillent i wanted some more information along with the schematics.. like the wattage of the resistors used and also the type and voltage rating of the capacitors . Please could you provide the same ?

                  axillentA Offline
                  axillentA Offline
                  axillent
                  Mod
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #37

                  @sharath-krishna no problem

                  all resistors except R4 & R5 are SMD 0603, R4 & R5 are SMD 1206
                  C8 is 0.47-0.68uF @ 400V for 220V input, or 0.68-1uF @ 250V for 110V

                  all other capacitors need a rate for 10V and above

                  sense and drive

                  T 1 Reply Last reply
                  0
                  • axillentA axillent

                    @sharath-krishna no problem

                    all resistors except R4 & R5 are SMD 0603, R4 & R5 are SMD 1206
                    C8 is 0.47-0.68uF @ 400V for 220V input, or 0.68-1uF @ 250V for 110V

                    all other capacitors need a rate for 10V and above

                    T Offline
                    T Offline
                    Tibus
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #38

                    @axillent thanks for the values but what are the wattage of the resistors?

                    axillentA 1 Reply Last reply
                    0
                    • S Offline
                      S Offline
                      sharath krishna
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #39

                      @axillent : thanks :+1: and @Tibus i think all only 45 and r4 would be like 0.5w else all 0.25 may be :) i have not worked much with smd tough.

                      1 Reply Last reply
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                      • T Tibus

                        @axillent thanks for the values but what are the wattage of the resistors?

                        axillentA Offline
                        axillentA Offline
                        axillent
                        Mod
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #40

                        @Tibus I gave you the footprints, for SMD it is equivalent of the wattage)

                        actually only R4 & R5 a sensitive to the footprints. An even more sensitive to a maximum rating voltage than to the wattage.
                        I'm using two 1206 in series to be sure that they will hold up to 400V. I made a check of different brands, usually the maximum rated voltage for 1206 is not bellow 200-300V, that means that in series of equal resistors the maximum rated voltage will be 400-600V

                        all other resistors are under low voltage and very low power dissipation

                        but if you need wattage just for learning curve, usually 0601 is 0.1W, 1206 is 0.25W

                        sense and drive

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