Posts made by achurak1

@Andrei-Călin-Tătar - can you please explain all of your jumper wires. US version looks differently obviously so it's really hard to figure out what you did there based on just the pictures.

@Andrei-Călin-Tătar - Understood, thanks! Why did you need a new touch sensor, could you reuse the existing one?

@Andrei-Călin-Tătar - How did you solve the problem with the power? I tried powering arduino from the built-in 3V connection, but it only worked to turn the lights on. Once on, I almost couldn't communicate with the arduino anymore (like 1 attempt from 20 would be successful).

@Nca78 - I'm not sure if you've seen this or not, but someone seems to have managed to crack the dimmer protocol in this thread: https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/2775/livolo-glass-panel-touch-light-wall-switch-arduino-433mhz

@Nca78 - Hi! Haven't heard from your for quite some time Any progress with this? Were you able to resolve the poor sensitivity issues?

@Nca78 - only 500 pieces That's OK though, they're cheap, I already ordered the 0603 ones, just hoping my soldering skills are going to be enough for that size. Let me know as soon as you decide on the res/cap packages. I have only 0805, but can order something else if needed.
Thanks for keeping me in the loop and hope you will be able to crack that protocol!

@Nca78 - great news indeed! So you think it's OK to order the PCBs? Did you fix the bug with the resistor or I should add the ground connection myself before ordering the PCBs?
Did you test it with the dimmable switch by the way?

@Nca78 - great, thanks! I don't mind soldering all of them, just wasn't sure if I needed to buy the specific type/package. Is the voltage regulator (SOT23-3) only necessary if I want to encrypt the messages?

@Nca78 - thanks! I can order the non-dimmable versions, but would prefer to avoid this if possible.
Is it necessary to use EIA3216 package for the tantalum capacitors or is it just something you've had handy and can be replaced with any other package (e.g. 0805 or 1206)?

@Nca78 - great! By the way, will I be able to use it with my dimmable switches (even if I lose the dimming functionality) or do I need the non-dimmable version?

@Nca78 - I ordered my PCBs (not Livolo) around the same time you did using Hongkong post and they just arrived yesterday. Never had to deal with the customs...

@Nca78 - Thanks for the update! Looks like shipping takes a lot of time even with the DHL delivery. Will be waiting for you to test and give us green light to order the PCBs

@Nca78 - makes sense When are you going to upload the gerber files?

@Nca78 - Great! Do you believe the new version has all of the issues fixed?

@Nca78 Awesome, thanks for the update!

So how's the testing going? I'm thinking to try to have seeed to print and assemble the pcb for me as I hate to even think about soldering all of these smd parts manually

@gohan - not sure how exactly it answers my question? I thought you meant I could run the pir from 3.3v. I could plug everything to an outlet and don't worry about the batteries at all. The pir works perfectly from two batteries and the 5v booster, so why would I want to add more batteries and make the whole thing much bigger?

@gohan - I tried to connect the 3.3v to one of the three pins where you'd usually put a jumper (H, L pads) as I've seen people discussing it on this forum and it just didn't work for me, the sensor did work, but very unstable, would fire up every time radio sends or receives something.

@sundberg84 - correct, the 5v booster looks exactly like the 3.3v booster. I have another sensor I've built manually and it works exactly like that, arduino/temp/hum/radio all work from 3.3v and pir works from 5v. I power it all with two rechargeable batteries (so ~2.6 max charged, not even 3) and it's been running good for several months already and still shows 2.45-2.50.

@sundberg84 - thanks for your board, it seems to be almost exactly what I was looking for! What do you think would be the best way to adjust it if I need to boost the batteries not only to 3.3V, but also to 5V to run the pir sensor?

@Nca78 I have a probably very stupid question. Why is it every time I'm trying to solder my arduino in parallel to the pins A0-A2 everything basically stops working - the lights would go on, but not off, dimmer would stop working either or the lights would just start flickering like crazy. What am I missing here? Is that somehow related to pull-up/down resistors? I tried both modes on arduino, INPUT to just listen what's going on when I'm touching the button and OUTPUT to actually control stuff, but both gave me the same results - nothing

@Nca78, thanks! I'm going to try this touch simulation, probably tomorrow.
They use PIC16F690 chip for the dimmable switch versions: http://www.microchip.com/wwwproducts/en/PIC16F690
$20 seems reasonable, I paid $22 for the one gang dimmable switch, so the total would be $42.

@Nca78, does that mean I can send high from arduino to this electrode thus imitating the touch? If so, would it be easier to do that or send the high/low directly to the HC238 (to A0 - A2)? It seems that in the first case I can also easily control the dimming function by keeping high for a few seconds. Is there a way to control dimming directly through HC238?
And an unrelated question, will you be able to sell these replacement PCBs you're working on right now and when? I'm not sure I will have enough patience to solder arduinos/radios to dozens of the switches, so I'd rather buy your plug-n-play solution if the price is reasonable.