@Nca78 Do you tested this board, if yes, did it work? And which CS capacitors did you use?

@bisschopsr said in BlackCircle Sensor - High "WAF" Temp/Hum. sensor: Hi All, Like the design thinking of this, although an older topic I did manage to get me one of these dishes. After taking it apart, I have one question that came to mind. Is the ventilation in the dish enough for the humity sensor? Is there any experience with that after running this sensor for a while? Thx Ralph Hello, yes I think it's enough, in fact there's much more ventilation than in many commercial sensors which only have a small hole. But it's a good test to make, I'll try to compare to a sensor out of it's enclosure to see if there's significant difference or delay.

Hello, can you post BOM please, according to schematics tantalum schould be 100uF bat tantalum cap in picture is 4.7uF

@LastSamurai Thanks, it looks great.

@Nca78 FWIW, I used 1.55mm holes. There may be no perfect diameter since we don't even know for sure yet which lens will turn out best.

Hello @reinhold, yes the PCB works, I have assembled one and tested it for basic function (not all buttons and leds) but I have stability problem that comes from the software, I put it aside to do other things and didn't have time to go back to it, if there is some interest for it I will find some time and finish at least a basic script.

Made a first print but setting for this filament are clearly wrong as the print quality sucks

@toyman said in NModule DC Fan / PWM shield: Can the FET withstand continious 2A load? I have one meter long 5050 strip FDD8447L is rated for 15A continuous load. You don't want to try that because it's possible only with a big pad and 2oz copper PCB, but 2A will not be a problem on this board, there's plenty of margin https://isojed.nl/blog/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/FDD8447L.pdf

Ok thank you @Nca78

Hello, I'm thinking about upgrading this board to include pinout for LIS3DH breakout board, like this one : https://www.aliexpress.com/item/LIS3DH-Three-Converters-Motion-Accelerometer-Triaxial-Acceleration-Temperature-Sensor-Module-Development-Board-Replace-ADXL345/32840326778.html and ditch the ADXL shield as it's not a good solution, it has either the ADXL345 which uses too much power, or the ADXL362 which is ultra low power but lacks advanced functionality like tap/double tap detection. I would like to have feedback of users on this (do it sound useful ?), and also know if anyone uses the SMD footprints on the board, for leds and for reserve capacitors, as it could be a cleaner board without those footprints. I would make the following changes : put footprint for LIS3DH accelerometer along the "NModule connector" as it has too many pins to put elsewhere keep only one I2C footprint on the side, for "GY-49" MAX44009 light sensor breakout board: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/GY-49-MAX44009-Ambient-Light-Sensor-Module-for-Arduino-with-4P-Pin-Header-Module/32828654450.html temperature/humidity would be via the existing "SMD" footprint, it's not through hole but very easy to solder as it's 2.54mm pad spacing remove SMD footprints for LED, add footprint for through hole reserve capacitor, keep SMD footprints for reserve capacitors only if I have space for them shield would be a bit extended to go over the 2 M2 holes in the "power" part of the NModule, so it could be fitted with spacers and nylon screws and have stable/reliable mechanical connection between NModule and Shield. Basically this would be the footprint of the shield : So in the end it would make one shield to have Temperature/Humidity/Light/Acceleration or Temperature/Humidity/Light/Door.

Sorry. Disregard.

How is this project holding up? Is it still running and was it accurate?

Finally solved a lot of problems and checked a lot of mistakes. But now the first version of this device works almost properly :trollface: I will make a small report in the description asap

I think you can just set the I2C pins in MyBoardNRF5.h without remapping the pins in MyBoardNRF5.cpp. Look in MyBoardNRF5.h, under the Wire Interfaces section. Set SDL and SCA to 30 and 31 as appropriate for your board.

Hello, I want to build this project. But I don't need to power it by batteries. Has anyone the circuit diagram (in FrizIng?) I have also the problem, that I can't see, on the breadboard picture of this project where the red wire from the battery ends after the connection to the Arduino? Does it go to the FET and the R7? Can anyone help me?

Love the big red button!

@user2684 Thanks a lot

Lovely work. Are you proposing to sell the boards? SMD looks too hard.

@marcusakamg7 that's strange, I never ordered this board on OSHPark, I will check later.

@Andrew-Currie Downloaded KiCad and used it to import jBoard2.brd and output .gbr files via Plots plus the .drl file. Checked using GerbView and uploaded to PCBWay. Hopefully this will now work...

Testing and updating can resume now my first year at university has finished and I now have 4 months worth of MySensors development to get started on!

BTW, I like how you both made a case for it. Very nice!

Wow, great! Its alway nice to see others using my work too. Your code improvement seem to be very helpful too. I have most recently also integrated this directly into my gateway build (see here). I am still struggling with code there though.

@Roland-Wijnen Hi! Were you able to compile the available files? I tried, but there has been a lot of error!

I liked domoticz (was very easy to set up and use). Together with dzVents scripting wasn't that difficult either. But I also had some problem with it lately, so I was actually thinking about switching to openhab (2).

@Samuel235 said in Homini AC Powered Relay (2) Module: OMRON G3MB-202P Okay I'm trying to help you with the fuse component. I found a datasheet for the OMRON G3MB-202P. And there are enoght information to be known for fuse selection. I try to calculate it here (and i will try it with my bad English ). The most important information is the melting integral. The Melting integral has A²s as unit. So this means the maximum current for a time can exists without damaging the device. For further information look at wikipedia. So we need any further information about: the protection which is present before (the typical circuit protection in private houses) the melting integral from the device which we want to protect the maximum voltage the maximum switching current the breaking capacity Inrush current for the switched devices (we can't know) Typical values for an automatic circuit breaker in private houses are: from 25 to 100 A²s 230 V AC 16 A So this protection isn't good enough for our relay. The relay have these values: 230 V AC 2 A maximum switching current I²t value (melting integral): 4 A²s the allowed inrush current over a small time is higher than the melting integral. It is a bit confusing i think, but if we calculate the protection for the given melting integral and it's fine. So we can define the parameters for the client (switching site of this application here) The fuse have to be: I²s value higher or equal than the I²s value from the existing protection rating voltage over 230 V AC rating current 2 A or lower (because 2 A is the maximum at 25 °C, for 40 °C it is about 1.6 A) a maximum switching time of 1 second at 2 A or lower time with higher current but below 4A²s! To calculate use the switching time from the fuse datasheet an multiply it two times with the given current for this switching time. And i think a fast blow fuse would be the best. There are SMD fuses with 10.1 x 3 mm and 250 V AC available. If there is no fuse available with the values above, we could combine multiple fuses. A possible solution could be one bigger fuse for both relays and the ac/dc component. And a smaller fuse for the switching site of the relay and the HLK-PM01. But for this it is important that the circuit have only one input for the hot one (L) of 230 V and one output for each relay. In this case we could reduce the big connectors from 6 to 4. Like (L, N, Relay1, Relay2). And the temperature fuse can work for all components too So the protection for the primary site of the HLK-PM01 is a problem i think. Because the are no information available about the I²s value from HLK-PM01. I hope you can understand my English and could follow my explanation?

@HouseIOT Sorry to trouble you, i use a mysensors-wifi-gateway with protocol 2.1.1 , and my homeautomation is home-assistant. I can't use your dimmer in my system. After read the reference, there need to add V-percentage and V-status in the code, as a newbie , I can't do it myself. So I wondered，can you do me a favor? Thanks a lot.

What are the parameters of this radio, I could not get it to work. Suspicions that he had no speed 250.

@Koresh I do like it, i just worry for people that use their main PC as a controller. Easily knockable/damageable unless they use a rear socket.

In deep Sleep the cunsumption is below 19µA, but i have to send with PA_MAX. On some Windows the open/close frequency is verry high, so the battery is to fast emty. The CR2032 is good, but i want more "lifetime"

Do you have interest to try OH2 together with MySensors Ethernet Gateway to get working? I do not have enough force to push developers to make this happen. At the moment there is some problem on this, because full control is not possible. I think that MySensors Serial Gateway is working with OH2, but I don't like to use it. I like to connect my devices into LAN not cabling via old fashioned way using serial wires.

@mardah oh... you mean pin change system, not extint. You can use it of course.