Well, it not really a build I plugged in wires, and copied code. Found a random usb charger and put it all in my workspace to be.

And I absolutely love this thing. Maximum of 3 hours work. I was having fun, so it could be more.

I considered that there could and should be a display on this thing, but not for now. I made this, because I have never experimented with temperature sensors and I just received a few. Now I can just see what happens with the temperature in there.
sensor is a AHT10 temperature and humidity.
http://www.aosong.com/m/en/products-40.html
I used this library: https://github.com/enjoyneering/AHT10
I repurposed Hek's DHT code, and swapped the readings with the AHT's

shed before

workspace after but still filling it.

The milling topic got my interest and I have been working on getting a machine for myself.
So far I have just assembled the machine and realised milling is a bit more difficult to start then 3d printing.
anyway, I would like to share my progress. I am building video's now :)

No circuitsboards yet, but here is a introduction of my way to victory.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=45tTuHpgH1c&feature=youtu.be

I am reconsidering a replacement for Domoticz because I experienced problems since I updated. I have to restart anyway.
I have some new pcb's ready to be soldered for new light dimmers. All in a nice moment to reconsider. I would like some assistance if home Assistant is good for me or there is an easier route. Btw I liked the ease of install with Domoticz.

• I like the idea of flashing firmware OTA.
  • I found one topic on hass.io that some user made it possible in 2018, but is it really integrated?
  • Can I use HomeAssistant on a linux install while maintaining firmware on windows with myscontroller?
• I think I want some node to node communication in case the controller fails.
  • For now, just for the lightswitches.

@tekka Right now, I am looking where your files are different from mine. I do not understand where I went wrong. perhaps I should also delete the other files that make creates, not just the hex.

Either way. A lot of thanks.

Hi,

Recently I have been more 3D designing and printing, but I like some coöperated practice ;-).

And this point I don't do anything with mysensors, but there are some other longer term projects going on. I'm looking for someone who want's easy housing for there sensors or something.

I prefer it if someone lives nearby and that there will be some coöperation in the designing. I don't intend on making a profit but the material has to be paid for.

At this point I print reliable in PETG (black) and PLA (not in stock)

I have found a YouTube channel that has a few video's about using the 3018 CNC for PCB milling.

They winked a bit at the Wegstr promotional video.

But they seem to get good quality. They also have better video's explaining the steps.

https://youtu.be/fm5bsq7XD2g

Have any of you tried to make a vacuum table?

When it comes to the solder mask. Based on video I say this is done easier bij using UV exposure only. If you are using UV paint anyway, then you might as well print the design on a transparent sheet.

@NeverDie I could actually try this out.

I recently received solder mask paint, both white and green.

And I have a cheap 3 Chinese Watts uv laser engraver.

I was thinking that using transparent sheets is the easiest way to go since you have to expose it anyway, but ofcourse that also means more material use.

@NeverDie for lack of such a roll I have tried another idea I found on YouTube.

I used my laminator to spread out the paint. It gives not that perfect result that you see on factory prints but I was able to expose it for 30s and then a minute of cleaning and then another 2 minutes of exposing.

It is a very solid and well formed layer. Very scratch resistant.

I will have another go on the other side to see if this is repeatable.

Edit:

This is very repeatable. I tried scrubbing with alcohol first but aceton might be a bit better.

The letters are less than 0,4mm wide.

After scrubbing I exposed everything for another 3 minutes and than it seems to be scratch resistant.

So while I have not yet tested laser exposure or laser engraving, I have now tested a potential reliable way of applying the paint.

@NeverDie

You know I was just considering if it was worth it to film the process. But I think this will be a bit to much work. I will have to at least clear my desk for it to be presentable :-).

I but the PCB in a polypropylene A4 sized folder. It is thin material and the paint does not really want to stick on it.

The transparent sheets I use for printing the design on are made for inkjet printers. The paint sticks very well to this so the Polypropylene is very important.

Than only once I let it go trough the laminator. I have to make sure that it actually goes through it does not really want to on it's own.

@executivul

I use the same kind of plastic folder. They are dirt cheap. And yesterday I used the same one twice.

@NeverDie it was late in the night already. I meant 2 mils :-).

Yes the laminator is only rolling, there is no heat involved.

@NeverDie oh btw, I have not seen air bubbles.

@executivul good luck.

I noticed that I really have to hold the board and the plastic together, otherwise the rolls will pull the foil off the board.

So that might make aligning the artwork a bit difficult. Perhaps some form of holder for the PCB could prevent the shifting.

@NeverDie

Years ago I bought a face tanning device. They still sell these things second hand. And I expect like a lot of convenient but time consuming beauty devices, they are hardly used.

Cost you 5-10 euros here in the Netherlands. You might have something similar.

Anyway 30 seconds with this thing and it's cured.

@NeverDie I saw an YouTube video screenprinting. That guy noticed that semi transparent sheets work better than transparent sheets. Ink holds better or something.

I can actually try this one out. Because afteral. We want that 0.4mm pitch right?

I just need to find something to put the paint on.

@NeverDie inkjet printing on semi transparent sheets.