@jamzm From what I understood is that a Fing box is an interface device which adds to your router and it is something related to the WiFi network.

I am no expert - -still loads to learn but then I think there is some disconnect. While the Mysensors network does work on the 2.4GHz frequency range (through the NRF24 or NRF5 radios), the network is an ISM band network and not a WiFi standard. Therefore you need to add a gateway from the door sensor to your network.

Take a look at the Getting Started and Build pages.

The minimum you need is a arduino board of your choice with a radio of your choice for the sensor; an arduino/esp8266 of your choice and the same radio for the gateway and a controller of your choice as well.

Had I been starting and someone asked me to choose a bunch of stuff, I would get scared. So I will tell you what I use.. its just one of the implementations.

For the sensors I use arduino pro mini 3.3v with NRF24L01 and I am experimenting with NRF51822 (stay away from these)
For the gateway, I use an arduino uno with NRF24l01 with an ethernet shield running MQTT gateway
For the controller I use Home Assistant.

Now for the sensor itself - if you want to DIY the same, then I would do it this way (again different people would have different methods)

Use arduino pro-mini with NRF24l01 and a reed-switch. 3D print the case for it and use it.

I hope I was able to help in some manner.

You can upload Mysensors sketch to NRF5 modules and that way it can speak to mysensors network and then communicate to your controller through the gateway

@scalz May I request you to share your code for it please. Thanks.

Thank you so much!

@tBS I think I am in the same boat as you. Well, I started with MySensors few years ago and then shifted most of my stuff to Esp8266 - Tasmota and ESPHome. I am rebooting this project personally for me.

Yet, I feel somehow MySensors is a better implementation in terms of its mesh capabilities and repeater function.
And it is easier to make MySensors battery operated. NRF24 or NRF5x are more efficient power wise as compared to ESP8266 or ESP32.
That said, I think what we lack in this project (and if I am unable to find, maybe someone can point it out) are YouTubers like Drzzs of Home Assistant.

I have a Telegram group of Home Automation users in India and off-late I have been pushing this project on my group. We are in the midst of a lockdown, hence we cannot source parts for now.
That said, I think while you could be late in the game - a lot of development has happened and bugs were ironed out.
I am extremely happy to help as much as I can. I am no expert - so most likely I won't have the answers. I believe two heads are better than one so we can work things out together.

Cheers!

@mfalkvidd
The diagnosis solved the issue. The Arduino pro mini 3.3V 8 MHz sold to me was actually a 5v 16 MHz. No more Failed reading temperature from DHT!. However, there are still a few st:fail during initialisation but later goes away.
Should I work towards eliminating these or would it be fine. The Openhab2 still is not reading from this node and shows NaN (even though the sensor is online).

Thanks for your continued help.

TSM:FPAR
TSP:MSG:SEND 1-1-255-255 s=255,c=3,t=7,pt=0,l=0,sg=0,ft=0,st=bc:
TSM:FPAR
TSP:MSG:SEND 1-1-255-255 s=255,c=3,t=7,pt=0,l=0,sg=0,ft=0,st=bc:
TSP:MSG:READ 0-0-1 s=255,c=3,t=8,pt=1,l=1,sg=0:0
TSP:MSG:FPAR RES (ID=0, dist=0)
TSP:MSG:PAR OK (ID=0, dist=1)
TSM:FPAR:OK
TSM:ID
TSM:CHKID:OK (ID=1)
TSM:UPL
TSP:PING:SEND (dest=0)
TSP:MSG:SEND 1-1-0-0 s=255,c=3,t=24,pt=1,l=1,sg=0,ft=0,st=ok:1
TSP:MSG:READ 0-0-1 s=255,c=3,t=25,pt=1,l=1,sg=0:1
TSP:MSG:PONG RECV (hops=1)
TSP:CHKUPL:OK
TSM:UPL:OK
TSM:READY
TSP:MSG:SEND 1-1-0-0 s=255,c=3,t=15,pt=6,l=2,sg=0,ft=0,st=ok:0100
!TSP:MSG:SEND 1-1-0-0 s=255,c=0,t=17,pt=0,l=5,sg=0,ft=0,st=fail:2.0.0
!TSP:MSG:SEND 1-1-0-0 s=255,c=3,t=6,pt=1,l=1,sg=0,ft=1,st=fail:0
!TSP:MSG:SEND 1-1-0-0 s=255,c=3,t=11,pt=0,l=22,sg=0,ft=2,st=fail:TemperatureAndHumidity
TSP:MSG:SEND 1-1-0-0 s=255,c=3,t=12,pt=0,l=3,sg=0,ft=3,st=ok:1.1
TSP:MSG:SEND 1-1-0-0 s=0,c=0,t=7,pt=0,l=0,sg=0,ft=0,st=ok:
TSP:MSG:SEND 1-1-0-0 s=1,c=0,t=6,pt=0,l=0,sg=0,ft=0,st=ok:
Request registration...
TSP:MSG:SEND 1-1-0-0 s=255,c=3,t=26,pt=1,l=1,sg=0,ft=0,st=ok:2
TSP:MSG:READ 0-0-1 s=255,c=3,t=27,pt=1,l=1,sg=0:1
Node registration=1
Init complete, id=1, parent=0, distance=1, registration=1
TSP:MSG:SEND 1-1-0-0 s=1,c=1,t=0,pt=7,l=5,sg=0,ft=0,st=ok:24.6
T: 24.60
TSP:MSG:SEND 1-1-0-0 s=0,c=1,t=1,pt=7,l=5,sg=0,ft=0,st=ok:41.9
H: 41.90
TSP:MSG:SEND 1-1-0-0 s=0,c=1,t=1,pt=7,l=5,sg=0,ft=0,st=ok:42.0
H: 42.00

Hello.
I dipped my toes into the world of home automation and discovered mysensors a couple of years ago. Then, I built (successfully) couple of relay actuators and stopped. Reason: I was in a rented apartment and couldn’t do anything permanent as such. Now, I have my own apartment and we have more or less settled in.
I would like to make our home a wee bit smarter- turn on/off lights , put a timer on a washing machine power source, humidity detection , gas leak detection , door sensors etc.
I have Arduinos pro mini and nrf24 radios with me from earlier.
My questions are the following

1. I used domoticz earlier but now more inclined towards openahb2. Is it advisable to make a switch ?
2. I read about zigbee and zwave. But I don’t have any existing hardware of these protocols but the only advantage I have so far read is that these protocols are “stable” or “safer”. I am in India and as far as I know there are no regulations as such when it comes to tinkering with home electricals (I still don’t want to burn down the house). In my scenario , will Mysensors be a stable solution?
3. I want some kind of redundancy in the setup - if my home network fails or is down, I should still be able to get things running. Hence, shall I also consider building a scene controller which can control the relays if a phone is unavailable or Alexa is down etc. basically it should be SO friendly or a guest friendly.
   I am planning to start tomorrow and looking for advice. Thanks.

@tBS Hi, so there are two separate topics. Let us address them one by one. I will pickup the NRF5x communication with NRF24 .

I too am using an esp8266 based gateway which has an nRF24 radio attached. The gateway compiles and starts without a problem.
On the sensor node side, I am using an NRF51822 radio. Now, these devices (to best of my understanding) do not communicate over Bluetooth with the NRF24 or Mysensors.
You need to flash a MySensors sketch with the radio option for NRF5 on your NRF52 or NRF51 chip and then this chip will start talking to your Gateway. Use the radio option and

#define MY_RADIO_NRF5_ESB

disable other radios. For testing you could pickup the Mocksensors sketch, change the radio for match the NRF5. Of course you need to install the boards and the libraries. Follow this NRF5 Beginner Guide.
For me this works fine as well. I can see MQTT messages flowing via the ESP8266 Gateway to my broker. I have not yet added this to my HomeAssistant.
Now, coming to your second topic

Your struggles with OpenHab. I haven't used OpenHab in years, so I am not the right person for it. However, I suggest that you use a MQTT ESP8266 Gateway and use an MQTT broker to see the messages flowing back to the broker.

Hope this helps you.
Cheers.

@TimO Thanks, it's finally working! Time to add more nodes.

Two thoughts come to mind depending on what you prefer

1. Remove the manual function and rely on a relay ; I would make it a binary heater with two values - ON at full heat and OFF. Then we can use a temperature sensor placed at a good location to as a feedback mechanism to turn the relay On & Off

2. You may consider putting a motor based actuator (maybe find one on Aliexpress - something like this Actuator Arm or you can DIY using a stepper motor and 3D printer.

Some images of the device you want to manipulate will be nice

Hope this helps
Cheers

DC8V-DC16V Automatic Manipulator Shut Off Valve For Alarm Shutoff Gas Water Pipeline Security Device For Kitchen & Bathroom

$5.24

@mjdula
This is not a support forum for Tasmota. You should try their Discord

@IronFelix
I would not combine so many inputs and outputs in one sketch. But I think if there is enough memory for variables ; then it is possible to go for sensing (step by step) for a combination of sensors.
Similarly for buttons, actuators, use a separate hardware.

Very interesting requirement. In the world of amateur radio, this is possible using SSTV (Slow Scan TV ) on frequency bands like VHF or UHF. But then this is not encrypted and anyone with a receiver and hardware can receive and decode these signals.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Slow-scan_television

Now, if it can be done with NRF24l01 or with RFM69, I do not know. Back in the day, people were sending multimedia over Bluetooth so maybe that works for you.

Hello
Have a look at this
https://forum.mysensors.org/post/88732

@Jan-Spies
From what I know - MySController only works with serial and/or Ethernet. Mqtt is not supported. May you can try with Ethernet only gateway.

@Sebex Will this help
https://grabcad.com/library/arduino-pro-mini-1
and should we move this conversation to another topic /PM as this is not relevant to this thread.

I think you can try this

@Sebex Do share the STL - it will be great and if you use Fusion360, then may I request for the F3D file.. I am semi-skilled when it comes to designing

@carlos-sampaio said in SCT013 50A - Low current:

SCT013

I would be interested to know this as well, but to my understanding - maybe it has something to do with resolution. I had earlier used this calculator to calculate the value of resistors and capcitors for my 30A CT Clamp. But the calculator is no longer opening.

There are lower capacity CT clamps available and perhaps those can measure smaller currents. It is possible that the mA current is smaller than the threshold to excite the coil inside it.

Hello
I have a smart meter in my apartment on which an LED glows when the power supply switches from the grid to a backup ( in case of load shedding etc).
Today, I use an Nodemcu running ESPhome to detect the LED glowing on or off status by doing a voltage divider on a LDR. This is being powered through a phone charger. I check the status on a digital pin.

Now, in order to improve the WAF points, I need to make is battery operated (wires are ugly - simple), hence I would like to run it on Arduino Pro mini running MySensors & AA/AAA batteries
Which is more power efficient - LDR with voltage divider or LDR with a capacitor using the rctime library?
Year to date LED was on 103 hours