Safe In-Wall AC to DC Transformers??

[ceech]

@Fabien @DrJeff Here is a link to board and schematic files for the transformerless AC-DC converter:
https://github.com/ceech/AC_SR087

[MartinP]

Would this varistor work with 240v?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-x-Zinc-Oxide-Varistor-250VAC-60J-2500A-10mm-/260848704608?hash=item3cbbcb5c60

[DrJeff]

@ceech can't look at the files right now is this a dimmer switch that is transformerless?

[ceech]

@DrJeff Yes

[DrJeff]

@ceech Thanks yet again!

[petewill]

@MartinP Based on my limited knowledge, yes, that should work. Maybe someone else can chime in to confirm?

[Fabien]

thank you @ceech

[Sparkman]

@petewill said:

@MartinP Based on my limited knowledge, yes, that should work. Maybe someone else can chime in to confirm?

I would personally go with a higher voltage rating. Something like 15-20% higher than your normal voltage otherwise you may get regular nuisance trips. So for a 240 VAC system, I would use something close to 290V.

Cheers
Al

[petewill]

@Sparkman Thanks!

[RJ_Make]

:stuck_out_tongue:

[Yveaux]

@ServiceXp :+1: long evening ahead :satisfied:

[Steve Caster]

Hi all,

I was wondering, I want to be able to adress my blinds using mysensors. Using the relay, radio etc works fine, yet I am still wondering on this power supply. So using the above component I basically prevent fire by using the thermal fuse and an overload by using a regular fuse, the varistor and the HLK.

Now, I am using a Nano (I have still 15 of those) which appear to be using 230mA, the radio itself and a relay. The relay (from the spec sheet) uses 180mA. This should be ok to be used with the HLK shown above. Now, my main concern is, how do you make a all sit together nicely? Is there a PCB type of board you are using? Any pointers welcome :)

Kind regards

Steve

[filipq]

Hi Steve

this may be useful http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/1540/110v-230v-ac-to-mysensors-pcb-board

Regrads
Filip

[petewill]

@ServiceXp Nice! Let us know how it goes.

[filipq]

Another one http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/1586/roller-shutter

[cygnus]

I'm planning on using the HLK-PM01 with the extra precautions discussed here; gluing a thermal fuse on top of the HLK-PM01 and adding a fuse and varistor.

My only problem right now is that I'm unable to find a good source for 0.3A slow blow fuses with axial leads on eBay. The only variants I can find are without leads and it feels a bit unnecessary to add a fuse holder to the circuit since the fuse is meant to be non-replaceable. The ones that petewill posted a link to are out-of-stock. Does anyone have any good suggestion where to find good fuses to use?

[Cliff Karlsson]

@cygnus said:

HLK-PM01

+1

[Sparkman]

@cygnus said:

My only problem right now is that I'm unable to find a good source for 0.3A slow blow fuses with axial leads on eBay.

Looks like the .4A ones are in stock. I would just go with those.

Cheers
Al

[GertSanders]

found these:

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-25pcs-0-25A-250mA-250V-3-6x10mm-Fuse-Slow-Blow-Glass-Axial-Leaded/32452469177.html?spm=2114.01020208.3.138.0Cb2oJ&ws_ab_test=201556_3,201527_3_71_72_73_74_75,0_0

[Cliff Karlsson]

If I want to use a relay for in-wall use. Could I use the same Slow Blow fuse, thermal fuse and varistor to get it to be more safe?