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Easy/Newbie PCB for MySensors

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  • jumpingJ jumping

    @ileneken3 in my experienxe the 3.3v booster gives a lot of problem with radio :-)

    sundberg84S Offline
    sundberg84S Offline
    sundberg84
    Hardware Contributor
    wrote on last edited by
    #101

    @jumping - correct, if you can make a node without its better for the radio but its easier to do with a booster, radio and a pre-made Arduino pro mini.

    Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
    MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
    MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
    RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

    jumpingJ ileneken3I 2 Replies Last reply
    0
    • sundberg84S sundberg84

      @jumping - correct, if you can make a node without its better for the radio but its easier to do with a booster, radio and a pre-made Arduino pro mini.

      jumpingJ Offline
      jumpingJ Offline
      jumping
      wrote on last edited by
      #102

      hi @sundberg84, if you have some free time you can see my post about a "new" PCB
      https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/5314/pcbs-for-battery-based-sensor :-)

      Raspberrry PI3 - Domoticz
      ESP8266 GW - MySensors 2.1.1

      1 Reply Last reply
      0
      • sundberg84S sundberg84

        @jumping - correct, if you can make a node without its better for the radio but its easier to do with a booster, radio and a pre-made Arduino pro mini.

        ileneken3I Offline
        ileneken3I Offline
        ileneken3
        wrote on last edited by
        #103

        @sundberg84

        It's definitely easier with a booster - but not cheaper or more reliable. (Why does the booster cost more than the Arduino?)

        Everything is about tradeoff's. When you solve one problem, it can easily introduce another. At first, I ignored the whole booster thing. But after a lot of experiments, I ended up with a pile of 1.35 V batteries. So I tried the booster, and ended up with transmission problems (partially solved by capacitors). So then I tried changing the bootloader (1Mhz, no brown out), and it seems to be OK - but I know there will be other problems. Example: I now need to boost to 3.3V for sensors that require it. Also, are there compatibility problems with mysensors?

        Even still, thanks for the great board - I've had a lot of fun and learned a lot with it!

        sundberg84S 1 Reply Last reply
        0
        • ileneken3I ileneken3

          @sundberg84

          It's definitely easier with a booster - but not cheaper or more reliable. (Why does the booster cost more than the Arduino?)

          Everything is about tradeoff's. When you solve one problem, it can easily introduce another. At first, I ignored the whole booster thing. But after a lot of experiments, I ended up with a pile of 1.35 V batteries. So I tried the booster, and ended up with transmission problems (partially solved by capacitors). So then I tried changing the bootloader (1Mhz, no brown out), and it seems to be OK - but I know there will be other problems. Example: I now need to boost to 3.3V for sensors that require it. Also, are there compatibility problems with mysensors?

          Even still, thanks for the great board - I've had a lot of fun and learned a lot with it!

          sundberg84S Offline
          sundberg84S Offline
          sundberg84
          Hardware Contributor
          wrote on last edited by sundberg84
          #104

          @ileneken3 - you are so right, and that is the fun with electronics! There is no right or wrong (more or less)!
          Newbie/Easy PCB is what it sounds like and my only aim is to make it as easy as possible. Im happy to evaluate it but at the moment booster and a few non compatible sensors is the price i pay.

          I have probably 15 of these PCB with boosters now, and yes - there are times when the booster makes it unreliable but most of the times it works. I have maybe trashed 5 nodes in all which is fair less amount that I had to trash soldering wires. I have also tried bare atmegas in different shapes and even with them there are problems (not including flashing bootloaders and stuff you dont have to do with EasyPCB).

          We also needs to remember this is DIY, not factory manufactured which can introduce alof of errors. We learn as we go and I hope EasyPCB can be a great platform for new people like you said. Nice to hear, thank you!

          Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
          MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
          MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
          RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

          1 Reply Last reply
          1
          • M Offline
            M Offline
            martim
            wrote on last edited by
            #105

            Yesterday I have received Rev 9 of Newbie PCB board. I am a newbie and I purchased this board to make building easier. I have soldered a radio and Arduino Pro Mini 3.3 V to it and the radio module with a 47uF cap. The power is supplied using the FTD232 board. Because the radio module is not powered using the 3.3V of arduino I wired this using a separate wire. I also connected a DTH 11 with the resistor on the board (4K7). I used a test sketch to read the DTH 11 and this is working well.

            When I load the MySensors sketch I get a radio failure. I have no Idea what this is? Bad wiring, not correct power?? Anyone can help me started?

            0 MCO:BGN:INIT NODE,CP=RNNNA--,VER=2.1.1
            4 TSM:INIT
            4 TSF:WUR:MS=0
            12 !TSM:INIT:TSP FAIL
            14 TSM:FAIL:CNT=1
            16 TSM:FAIL:PDT
            10018 TSM:FAIL:RE-INIT
            10020 TSM:INIT
            10027 !TSM:INIT:TSP FAIL
            10031 TSM:FAIL:CNT=2
            10033 TSM:FAIL:PDT```
            Nca78N 1 Reply Last reply
            0
            • M martim

              Yesterday I have received Rev 9 of Newbie PCB board. I am a newbie and I purchased this board to make building easier. I have soldered a radio and Arduino Pro Mini 3.3 V to it and the radio module with a 47uF cap. The power is supplied using the FTD232 board. Because the radio module is not powered using the 3.3V of arduino I wired this using a separate wire. I also connected a DTH 11 with the resistor on the board (4K7). I used a test sketch to read the DTH 11 and this is working well.

              When I load the MySensors sketch I get a radio failure. I have no Idea what this is? Bad wiring, not correct power?? Anyone can help me started?

              0 MCO:BGN:INIT NODE,CP=RNNNA--,VER=2.1.1
              4 TSM:INIT
              4 TSF:WUR:MS=0
              12 !TSM:INIT:TSP FAIL
              14 TSM:FAIL:CNT=1
              16 TSM:FAIL:PDT
              10018 TSM:FAIL:RE-INIT
              10020 TSM:INIT
              10027 !TSM:INIT:TSP FAIL
              10031 TSM:FAIL:CNT=2
              10033 TSM:FAIL:PDT```
              Nca78N Offline
              Nca78N Offline
              Nca78
              Hardware Contributor
              wrote on last edited by Nca78
              #106

              @martim said in Easy/Newbie PCB for MySensors:

              Because the radio module is not powered using the 3.3V of arduino I wired this using a separate wire.

              Can you show a picture of your setup and give more explanation on this sentence ? This part about connection of the radio smells fishy ;)
              It seems the radio cannot be initialized, so I suppose the power supplied to it is not correct, but I'm not sure of what you did.

              1 Reply Last reply
              0
              • M Offline
                M Offline
                martim
                wrote on last edited by
                #107

                This is the front part. The connected cable goes to the FTD232 which also is currently the power supply.

                0_1486835929737_IMG_3545.JPG !

                The red wire on the back plane connects the plus from arduino to the plus for the radio (soldered on the + of cap)
                0_1486835943373_IMG_3546.JPG !

                Try to zoom in.
                0_1486835954003_zoomed.png

                sundberg84S 1 Reply Last reply
                0
                • M martim

                  This is the front part. The connected cable goes to the FTD232 which also is currently the power supply.

                  0_1486835929737_IMG_3545.JPG !

                  The red wire on the back plane connects the plus from arduino to the plus for the radio (soldered on the + of cap)
                  0_1486835943373_IMG_3546.JPG !

                  Try to zoom in.
                  0_1486835954003_zoomed.png

                  sundberg84S Offline
                  sundberg84S Offline
                  sundberg84
                  Hardware Contributor
                  wrote on last edited by sundberg84
                  #108

                  @martim - read the insctructions again.
                  If you are using the board with a 3.3v arduino and battery you need to connect the BAT jumper and use a booster.

                  If you are using a 3.3 arduino with a regulated power you can add a jumper/wire over the booster and connect the BAT jumper.

                  Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
                  MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
                  MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
                  RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

                  M 1 Reply Last reply
                  0
                  • sundberg84S sundberg84

                    @martim - read the insctructions again.
                    If you are using the board with a 3.3v arduino and battery you need to connect the BAT jumper and use a booster.

                    If you are using a 3.3 arduino with a regulated power you can add a jumper/wire over the booster and connect the BAT jumper.

                    M Offline
                    M Offline
                    martim
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #109

                    @sundberg84
                    Ok, Thanks I will try the second suggestion. (my booster is still not delivered and hard to get at the moment :()

                    1 Reply Last reply
                    0
                    • M Offline
                      M Offline
                      martim
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #110

                      Found one issue. On the PCB board the was a very small broken wire. I think the postman was not very careful with it. At least I have some better logging but still not there.

                      How can I solve this one?

                      0 MCO:BGN:INIT NODE,CP=RNNNA--,VER=2.1.1
                      4 TSM:INIT
                      4 TSF:WUR:MS=0
                      12 TSM:INIT:TSP OK
                      14 TSM:INIT:STATID=20
                      16 TSF:SID:OK,ID=20
                      18 TSM:FPAR
                      55 TSF:MSG:SEND,20-20-255-255,s=255,c=3,t=7,pt=0,l=0,sg=0,ft=0,st=OK:
                      2064 !TSM:FPAR:NO REPLY
                      2066 TSM:FPAR
                      2103 TSF:MSG:SEND,20-20-255-255,s=255,c=3,t=7,pt=0,l=0,sg=0,ft=0,st=OK:
                      4112 !TSM:FPAR:NO REPLY
                      4114 TSM:FPAR
                      4151 TSF:MSG:SEND,20-20-255-255,s=255,c=3,t=7,pt=0,l=0,sg=0,ft=0,st=OK:
                      6160 !TSM:FPAR:NO REPLY
                      6162 TSM:FPAR
                      6199 TSF:MSG:SEND,20-20-255-255,s=255,c=3,t=7,pt=0,l=0,sg=0,ft=0,st=OK:
                      8208 !TSM:FPAR:FAIL
                      8210 TSM:FAIL:CNT=1
                      8212 TSM:FAIL:PDT
                      

                      Does this mean the gateway does not reply? It does with other sensors?

                      sundberg84S 1 Reply Last reply
                      0
                      • M martim

                        Found one issue. On the PCB board the was a very small broken wire. I think the postman was not very careful with it. At least I have some better logging but still not there.

                        How can I solve this one?

                        0 MCO:BGN:INIT NODE,CP=RNNNA--,VER=2.1.1
                        4 TSM:INIT
                        4 TSF:WUR:MS=0
                        12 TSM:INIT:TSP OK
                        14 TSM:INIT:STATID=20
                        16 TSF:SID:OK,ID=20
                        18 TSM:FPAR
                        55 TSF:MSG:SEND,20-20-255-255,s=255,c=3,t=7,pt=0,l=0,sg=0,ft=0,st=OK:
                        2064 !TSM:FPAR:NO REPLY
                        2066 TSM:FPAR
                        2103 TSF:MSG:SEND,20-20-255-255,s=255,c=3,t=7,pt=0,l=0,sg=0,ft=0,st=OK:
                        4112 !TSM:FPAR:NO REPLY
                        4114 TSM:FPAR
                        4151 TSF:MSG:SEND,20-20-255-255,s=255,c=3,t=7,pt=0,l=0,sg=0,ft=0,st=OK:
                        6160 !TSM:FPAR:NO REPLY
                        6162 TSM:FPAR
                        6199 TSF:MSG:SEND,20-20-255-255,s=255,c=3,t=7,pt=0,l=0,sg=0,ft=0,st=OK:
                        8208 !TSM:FPAR:FAIL
                        8210 TSM:FAIL:CNT=1
                        8212 TSM:FAIL:PDT
                        

                        Does this mean the gateway does not reply? It does with other sensors?

                        sundberg84S Offline
                        sundberg84S Offline
                        sundberg84
                        Hardware Contributor
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #111

                        @martim - yes, it doesnt get the connection to the GW as it wants... might be node or gw. Do you have caps on both?

                        Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
                        MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
                        MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
                        RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

                        1 Reply Last reply
                        0
                        • M Offline
                          M Offline
                          martim
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #112

                          Have solved the issue. Removed the cap from the board and directly soldered to the Radio Board. That's was solving the issue.

                          1 Reply Last reply
                          2
                          • H Offline
                            H Offline
                            hiddenuser
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #113

                            Awesome board!!!
                            How do I access A2, A3 and D8?

                            Thanks a lot

                            sundberg84S 1 Reply Last reply
                            0
                            • H hiddenuser

                              Awesome board!!!
                              How do I access A2, A3 and D8?

                              Thanks a lot

                              sundberg84S Offline
                              sundberg84S Offline
                              sundberg84
                              Hardware Contributor
                              wrote on last edited by sundberg84
                              #114

                              @hiddenuser - they are not accesses through the PCB:
                              0_1490798623451_1.JPG

                              You need to solder a wire on the Pro Mini and run somewhere, like the prototyping area.

                              Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
                              MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
                              MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
                              RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

                              H 1 Reply Last reply
                              0
                              • sundberg84S sundberg84

                                @hiddenuser - they are not accesses through the PCB:
                                0_1490798623451_1.JPG

                                You need to solder a wire on the Pro Mini and run somewhere, like the prototyping area.

                                H Offline
                                H Offline
                                hiddenuser
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #115

                                @sundberg84 Thanks a lot.... My ebay seller sent me a Atmega168 5v. I have noticed that you boards supports 5v version too. Would I be able to power it using raw (12v).

                                Thanks a lot .

                                sundberg84S 1 Reply Last reply
                                0
                                • H hiddenuser

                                  @sundberg84 Thanks a lot.... My ebay seller sent me a Atmega168 5v. I have noticed that you boards supports 5v version too. Would I be able to power it using raw (12v).

                                  Thanks a lot .

                                  sundberg84S Offline
                                  sundberg84S Offline
                                  sundberg84
                                  Hardware Contributor
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #116

                                  @hiddenuser - as long as the voltage divider on the board supports 12v that will work. A warning on the cheap chinese stuff is that this voltage regulator is bad and might fry.

                                  Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
                                  MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
                                  MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
                                  RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

                                  A 1 Reply Last reply
                                  1
                                  • sundberg84S sundberg84

                                    @hiddenuser - as long as the voltage divider on the board supports 12v that will work. A warning on the cheap chinese stuff is that this voltage regulator is bad and might fry.

                                    A Offline
                                    A Offline
                                    achurak1
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #117

                                    @sundberg84 - thanks for your board, it seems to be almost exactly what I was looking for! What do you think would be the best way to adjust it if I need to boost the batteries not only to 3.3V, but also to 5V to run the pir sensor?

                                    sundberg84S 1 Reply Last reply
                                    0
                                    • A achurak1

                                      @sundberg84 - thanks for your board, it seems to be almost exactly what I was looking for! What do you think would be the best way to adjust it if I need to boost the batteries not only to 3.3V, but also to 5V to run the pir sensor?

                                      sundberg84S Offline
                                      sundberg84S Offline
                                      sundberg84
                                      Hardware Contributor
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #118

                                      @achurak1 - do you mean running 5v on batteries? Sorry - thats out of my knowledge.
                                      I guess there are 5v boosters but my guess is also that this will drain the batteries pretty fast.
                                      I have made test with 9v batteries and voltage regulaters and this has worked for some time but never gives the lifetime as 3.3v on 2xAA.

                                      Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
                                      MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
                                      MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
                                      RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

                                      A 1 Reply Last reply
                                      0
                                      • sundberg84S sundberg84

                                        @achurak1 - do you mean running 5v on batteries? Sorry - thats out of my knowledge.
                                        I guess there are 5v boosters but my guess is also that this will drain the batteries pretty fast.
                                        I have made test with 9v batteries and voltage regulaters and this has worked for some time but never gives the lifetime as 3.3v on 2xAA.

                                        A Offline
                                        A Offline
                                        achurak1
                                        wrote on last edited by
                                        #119

                                        @sundberg84 - correct, the 5v booster looks exactly like the 3.3v booster. I have another sensor I've built manually and it works exactly like that, arduino/temp/hum/radio all work from 3.3v and pir works from 5v. I power it all with two rechargeable batteries (so ~2.6 max charged, not even 3) and it's been running good for several months already and still shows 2.45-2.50.

                                        gohanG 1 Reply Last reply
                                        0
                                        • A achurak1

                                          @sundberg84 - correct, the 5v booster looks exactly like the 3.3v booster. I have another sensor I've built manually and it works exactly like that, arduino/temp/hum/radio all work from 3.3v and pir works from 5v. I power it all with two rechargeable batteries (so ~2.6 max charged, not even 3) and it's been running good for several months already and still shows 2.45-2.50.

                                          gohanG Offline
                                          gohanG Offline
                                          gohan
                                          Mod
                                          wrote on last edited by
                                          #120

                                          @achurak1 do you know you could modify the pir sensor to work directly from batteries by removing the regulator?

                                          A 1 Reply Last reply
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