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💬 Easy/Newbie PCB for MySensors

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  • Lior RubinL Lior Rubin

    @sundberg84 I'm aware of it. I just ask to be sure.
    Can you upload here an example sketch (v2.0) with battery reporting ?

    Nca78N Offline
    Nca78N Offline
    Nca78
    Hardware Contributor
    wrote on last edited by
    #153

    @Lior-Rubin said:

    @sundberg84 I'm aware of it. I just ask to be sure.
    Can you upload here an example sketch (v2.0) with battery reporting ?

    You can just check the examples included in the library, I've been using the beta version of MySensors 2 for a long time and started from supplied examples, never had a problem.

    This is some code I use to report battery level, it's harder to make it more simple, juste keep your existing code to read the battery level and replace the line sending the value with the sendBatteryLevel() :

        int currentBatteryPercent = SystemStatus().getVCCPercent(VccMin, VccMax);
        if (currentBatteryPercent != LastBatteryPercent) {
            LastBatteryPercent = currentBatteryPercent;
            sendBatteryLevel(currentBatteryPercent);
        }```
    1 Reply Last reply
    1
    • Lior RubinL Lior Rubin

      @sundberg84 I'm aware of it. I just ask to be sure.
      Can you upload here an example sketch (v2.0) with battery reporting ?

      sundberg84S Offline
      sundberg84S Offline
      sundberg84
      Hardware Contributor
      wrote on last edited by sundberg84
      #154

      @Lior-Rubin - If you use a voltage divider and 2xAA use this:

      Defines:

      //=========================
      // BATTERY VOLTAGE DIVIDER SETUP
      // 1M, 470K divider across battery and using internal ADC ref of 1.1V
      // Sense point is bypassed with 0.1 uF cap to reduce noise at that point
      // ((1e6+470e3)/470e3)*1.1 = Vmax = 3.44 Volts
      // 3.44/1023 = Volts per bit = 0.003363075
      #define VBAT_PER_BITS 0.003363075  
      #define VMIN 1.9                                  //  Vmin (radio Min Volt)=1.9V (564v)
      #define VMAX 3.0                                  //  Vmax = (2xAA bat)=3.0V (892v)
      int batteryPcnt = 0;                              // Calc value for battery %
      int batLoop = 0;                                  // Loop to help calc average
      int batArray[3];                                  // Array to store value for average calc.
      int BATTERY_SENSE_PIN = A0;                       // select the input pin for the battery sense point
      //=========================
      
      void batM() //The battery calculations
      {
         delay(500);
         // Battery monitoring reading
         int sensorValue = analogRead(BATTERY_SENSE_PIN);    
         delay(500);
         
         // Calculate the battery in %
         float Vbat  = sensorValue * VBAT_PER_BITS;
         int batteryPcnt = static_cast<int>(((Vbat-VMIN)/(VMAX-VMIN))*100.);
         Serial.print("Battery percent: "); Serial.print(batteryPcnt); Serial.println(" %");  
         
         // Add it to array so we get an average of 3 (3x20min)
         batArray[batLoop] = batteryPcnt;
        
         if (batLoop > 2) {  
           batteryPcnt = (batArray[0] + batArray[1] + batArray[2] + batArray[3]);
           batteryPcnt = batteryPcnt / 3;
       
         if (batteryPcnt > 100) {
           batteryPcnt=100;
       }
       
           Serial.print("Battery Average (Send): "); Serial.print(batteryPcnt); Serial.println(" %");
             sendBatteryLevel(batteryPcnt);
             batLoop = 0;
            }
           else 
           {
           batLoop++;
           }
      }
      

      Add batM(); in the loop where you want to measure.
      This calculates an avarage and sends it every 3rd time. So i sleep my sensors for 20 min, and battery is reported every 1hour.

      If you want to measure incoming VCC agains ref use @Nca78 but this does not work if you are using a booster (since it will always be 3.3v on incoming).

      Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
      MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
      MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
      RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

      1 Reply Last reply
      0
      • Nca78N Nca78

        Thank you for the tip @sundberg84, it just needed the bypassing of the regulator, and then I can connect my cell battery to the GND and PWR and it runs fine.

        @Samuel235 yes you are right I did it and it didn't have Vcc power that's why I asked that question to sundberg84, next time I'll precise it as it could have ended in wasted time...

        @chuckconnors this is how you have to connect the jumpers to use directly on battery power (on GND and PWR pins). But as sundberg84 says you will not have a long battery life with AA batteries and without a booster. Even if you update the fuses and bootloader to run at 1MHz and have the BOD at 1.8V there will still be power left (I guess not far from 25% of capacity with 2 batteries) that is wasted. If you keep the defaults settings of the arduino at 8MHz it will run down to 2.4V and around half of the energy in your batteries will be wasted.

        Nca78N Offline
        Nca78N Offline
        Nca78
        Hardware Contributor
        wrote on last edited by Nca78
        #155

        Hello @sundberg84 I have a request for update for your board :)
        Can you remove the trace from the INT pin of the NRF24 to the D2 pin of the pro mini ? As interrupt is not used in MySensors for the NRF24, it's not useful while it creates some side effects.

        I explain you my problem:
        I made a door sensor using a reed switch with both normally open and normally closed pins, and connected them to D2 and D3 (+ ground on the other side connected, as on my last picture above).
        In the code I switch the status of the pins in the loop between HIGH/LOW values and set the interrupt on the unconnected pin so the pin is connected to ground only during a very short time (just the time to get out of the sleep mode). I'm supposed to have a very low consumption during deep sleep mode (few microamps). But I have that only when D2 is not connected to ground. If it's connected then it seems I have some current leaking from the INT pin of the NRF24 to the ground through the reed switch, as the board is using 6.5mA.
        Without any other change, I made a barbaric cut of the trace near the NRF24 and now the current consumption is around 1.5 µA for both states of the reed switch. For the next boards I will just remove the INT pin of the NRF24, but it would be more simple to have nothing to do :P

        Just in case this is my sketch (not final, please be tolerant) but I don't think it's really relevant

        
        // Enable debug prints
        #define MY_DEBUG 
        
        // Enable and select radio type attached
        #define MY_RADIO_NRF24
        
        #include <SPI.h>
        #include <MyConfig.h>
        #include <MySensors.h>
        #include <SystemStatus.h>
        
        #define SKETCH_NAME "NCA Door Sensor"
        #define SKETCH_MAJOR_VER "0"
        #define SKETCH_MINOR_VER "7"
        
        #define PRIMARY_CHILD_ID 30 
        #define SECONDARY_CHILD_ID 4
        
        #define PRIMARY_BUTTON_PIN 2   // Arduino Digital I/O pin for button/reed switch
        #define SECONDARY_BUTTON_PIN 3 // Arduino Digital I/O pin for button/reed switch
        
        #if (PRIMARY_BUTTON_PIN < 2 || PRIMARY_BUTTON_PIN > 3)
        #error PRIMARY_BUTTON_PIN must be either 2 or 3 for interrupts to work
        #endif
        #if (SECONDARY_BUTTON_PIN < 2 || SECONDARY_BUTTON_PIN > 3)
        #error SECONDARY_BUTTON_PIN must be either 2 or 3 for interrupts to work
        #endif
        #if (PRIMARY_BUTTON_PIN == SECONDARY_BUTTON_PIN)
        #error PRIMARY_BUTTON_PIN and BUTTON_PIN2 cannot be the same
        #endif
        #if (PRIMARY_CHILD_ID == SECONDARY_CHILD_ID)
        #error PRIMARY_CHILD_ID and SECONDARY_CHILD_ID cannot be the same
        #endif
        
        #define MY_NODE_ID 2
        #define MY_PARENT_NODE_ID 0
         
        
        // Change to V_LIGHT if you use S_LIGHT in presentation below
        MyMessage msg(PRIMARY_CHILD_ID, V_TRIPPED);
        //MyMessage msg2(SECONDARY_CHILD_ID, V_TRIPPED);
        
        
        // Parameters for VCC measurement
        const int VccMin        = 2400;  // Minimum expected Vcc level, in Volts. If you have updated bootloader&BOD you can change to 1.8V here
        const int VccMax        = 3000;  // Maximum expected Vcc level, in Volts.
        SystemStatus vcc();
        int LastBatteryPercent = 200; // so we are sure to send the battery level at first check
        bool isEven = false; // to check+send battery level only for each open+close cycles
        
        
        // This is the activated pin, on which the interrupt is set
        byte connectedPin = PRIMARY_BUTTON_PIN;
        byte connectedPinAtLastSending = 0; // Initialized at 0 so we will always send the first time
        
        void setup()  
        {  
          // First thing to do: change clock prescaling to 8 to change from 8MHz to 1MHz
          //  of course not necessary if you already have updated fuses and bootloader...
          #ifndef MY_DEBUG           // only if we are not in debug mode, so we can keep the fast baudrate in debug
            clock_prescale_set (clock_div_8);   
          #endif
          
        }
        
        void presentation() {
          // Send the sketch version information to the gateway and Controller
          sendSketchInfo(SKETCH_NAME, SKETCH_MAJOR_VER "." SKETCH_MINOR_VER);
        
          // Register binary input sensor to sensor_node (they will be created as child devices)
          present(PRIMARY_CHILD_ID, S_DOOR);  
        }
        
        // Loop will iterate on changes on the BUTTON_PINs
        void loop() 
        {
          // Short delay to allow buttons to properly settle
          sleep(5);
        
          deActivatePin(PRIMARY_BUTTON_PIN);
          deActivatePin(SECONDARY_BUTTON_PIN);
        
          // Check if the previously connected pin is now connected. We do that because it's the most likely to be unconnected now
          //  so it's the best way not to lose any current
          byte newConnectedPin = GetNonConnectedPin();
          if (checkPinIsConnected(connectedPin)) {
            // If pin is still connected we set back the value to connected pin
            newConnectedPin = connectedPin;
            #ifdef MY_DEBUG
              Serial.println("Connected pin is connected !");
            #endif
            
          }
          connectedPin = newConnectedPin;
          // If connected pin is different that the one during the last sending of status, we send again
          #ifdef MY_DEBUG
            Serial.print("Connected pin = ");
            Serial.println(connectedPin);
            Serial.print("New Connected pin = ");
            Serial.println(newConnectedPin);
          #endif
          
          if (connectedPin != connectedPinAtLastSending) {
             // Value has changed from last transmission, send the updated value
             send(msg.set(connectedPin==PRIMARY_BUTTON_PIN ? 1 : 0));
             connectedPinAtLastSending = connectedPin;
             isEven = !isEven;
          }
          
          if (isEven) {  // send only every two changes for a full open + close cycle
            int currentBatteryPercent = SystemStatus().getVCCPercent(VccMin, VccMax);
            if (currentBatteryPercent != LastBatteryPercent) {
                LastBatteryPercent = currentBatteryPercent;
                sendBatteryLevel(currentBatteryPercent);
            }
          }
        
          #ifdef MY_DEBUG
            Serial.print("Preparing to sleep, pin ");
            Serial.println(GetNonConnectedPin());
            wait(50);
          #endif
        
          // Activate the non connected pin before setting up interrupt
          activatePin(GetNonConnectedPin());    
          // Sleep until something happens with the door sensor
          sleep(GetNonConnectedPin()-2, CHANGE);
        } 
        
        void activatePin(byte pin) {
          // Set pin as input
          pinMode(pin, INPUT);
          // Activate internal pull up
          digitalWrite(pin, HIGH);
        }
        
        void deActivatePin(byte pin) {
          // Set back pin as output, low
          pinMode(pin, OUTPUT);
          digitalWrite(pin, LOW);
        }
        
        // Will check if pin is grounded (returns true) or not
        boolean checkPinIsConnected(byte pin) {
          activatePin(pin);
        
          // Read value
          byte valPin = digitalRead(pin);
          deActivatePin(pin);
        
          #ifdef MY_DEBUG
            Serial.print("checkPinIsConnected pin = ");
            Serial.print(pin);
            Serial.print(", value = ");
            Serial.println(valPin);
          #endif
          
          return valPin != HIGH;
        }
        
        // Returns the pin that is not connected
        byte GetNonConnectedPin() {
          return (connectedPin == PRIMARY_BUTTON_PIN) ? SECONDARY_BUTTON_PIN : PRIMARY_BUTTON_PIN;
        }
        
        
        sundberg84S 1 Reply Last reply
        0
        • Nca78N Nca78

          Hello @sundberg84 I have a request for update for your board :)
          Can you remove the trace from the INT pin of the NRF24 to the D2 pin of the pro mini ? As interrupt is not used in MySensors for the NRF24, it's not useful while it creates some side effects.

          I explain you my problem:
          I made a door sensor using a reed switch with both normally open and normally closed pins, and connected them to D2 and D3 (+ ground on the other side connected, as on my last picture above).
          In the code I switch the status of the pins in the loop between HIGH/LOW values and set the interrupt on the unconnected pin so the pin is connected to ground only during a very short time (just the time to get out of the sleep mode). I'm supposed to have a very low consumption during deep sleep mode (few microamps). But I have that only when D2 is not connected to ground. If it's connected then it seems I have some current leaking from the INT pin of the NRF24 to the ground through the reed switch, as the board is using 6.5mA.
          Without any other change, I made a barbaric cut of the trace near the NRF24 and now the current consumption is around 1.5 µA for both states of the reed switch. For the next boards I will just remove the INT pin of the NRF24, but it would be more simple to have nothing to do :P

          Just in case this is my sketch (not final, please be tolerant) but I don't think it's really relevant

          
          // Enable debug prints
          #define MY_DEBUG 
          
          // Enable and select radio type attached
          #define MY_RADIO_NRF24
          
          #include <SPI.h>
          #include <MyConfig.h>
          #include <MySensors.h>
          #include <SystemStatus.h>
          
          #define SKETCH_NAME "NCA Door Sensor"
          #define SKETCH_MAJOR_VER "0"
          #define SKETCH_MINOR_VER "7"
          
          #define PRIMARY_CHILD_ID 30 
          #define SECONDARY_CHILD_ID 4
          
          #define PRIMARY_BUTTON_PIN 2   // Arduino Digital I/O pin for button/reed switch
          #define SECONDARY_BUTTON_PIN 3 // Arduino Digital I/O pin for button/reed switch
          
          #if (PRIMARY_BUTTON_PIN < 2 || PRIMARY_BUTTON_PIN > 3)
          #error PRIMARY_BUTTON_PIN must be either 2 or 3 for interrupts to work
          #endif
          #if (SECONDARY_BUTTON_PIN < 2 || SECONDARY_BUTTON_PIN > 3)
          #error SECONDARY_BUTTON_PIN must be either 2 or 3 for interrupts to work
          #endif
          #if (PRIMARY_BUTTON_PIN == SECONDARY_BUTTON_PIN)
          #error PRIMARY_BUTTON_PIN and BUTTON_PIN2 cannot be the same
          #endif
          #if (PRIMARY_CHILD_ID == SECONDARY_CHILD_ID)
          #error PRIMARY_CHILD_ID and SECONDARY_CHILD_ID cannot be the same
          #endif
          
          #define MY_NODE_ID 2
          #define MY_PARENT_NODE_ID 0
           
          
          // Change to V_LIGHT if you use S_LIGHT in presentation below
          MyMessage msg(PRIMARY_CHILD_ID, V_TRIPPED);
          //MyMessage msg2(SECONDARY_CHILD_ID, V_TRIPPED);
          
          
          // Parameters for VCC measurement
          const int VccMin        = 2400;  // Minimum expected Vcc level, in Volts. If you have updated bootloader&BOD you can change to 1.8V here
          const int VccMax        = 3000;  // Maximum expected Vcc level, in Volts.
          SystemStatus vcc();
          int LastBatteryPercent = 200; // so we are sure to send the battery level at first check
          bool isEven = false; // to check+send battery level only for each open+close cycles
          
          
          // This is the activated pin, on which the interrupt is set
          byte connectedPin = PRIMARY_BUTTON_PIN;
          byte connectedPinAtLastSending = 0; // Initialized at 0 so we will always send the first time
          
          void setup()  
          {  
            // First thing to do: change clock prescaling to 8 to change from 8MHz to 1MHz
            //  of course not necessary if you already have updated fuses and bootloader...
            #ifndef MY_DEBUG           // only if we are not in debug mode, so we can keep the fast baudrate in debug
              clock_prescale_set (clock_div_8);   
            #endif
            
          }
          
          void presentation() {
            // Send the sketch version information to the gateway and Controller
            sendSketchInfo(SKETCH_NAME, SKETCH_MAJOR_VER "." SKETCH_MINOR_VER);
          
            // Register binary input sensor to sensor_node (they will be created as child devices)
            present(PRIMARY_CHILD_ID, S_DOOR);  
          }
          
          // Loop will iterate on changes on the BUTTON_PINs
          void loop() 
          {
            // Short delay to allow buttons to properly settle
            sleep(5);
          
            deActivatePin(PRIMARY_BUTTON_PIN);
            deActivatePin(SECONDARY_BUTTON_PIN);
          
            // Check if the previously connected pin is now connected. We do that because it's the most likely to be unconnected now
            //  so it's the best way not to lose any current
            byte newConnectedPin = GetNonConnectedPin();
            if (checkPinIsConnected(connectedPin)) {
              // If pin is still connected we set back the value to connected pin
              newConnectedPin = connectedPin;
              #ifdef MY_DEBUG
                Serial.println("Connected pin is connected !");
              #endif
              
            }
            connectedPin = newConnectedPin;
            // If connected pin is different that the one during the last sending of status, we send again
            #ifdef MY_DEBUG
              Serial.print("Connected pin = ");
              Serial.println(connectedPin);
              Serial.print("New Connected pin = ");
              Serial.println(newConnectedPin);
            #endif
            
            if (connectedPin != connectedPinAtLastSending) {
               // Value has changed from last transmission, send the updated value
               send(msg.set(connectedPin==PRIMARY_BUTTON_PIN ? 1 : 0));
               connectedPinAtLastSending = connectedPin;
               isEven = !isEven;
            }
            
            if (isEven) {  // send only every two changes for a full open + close cycle
              int currentBatteryPercent = SystemStatus().getVCCPercent(VccMin, VccMax);
              if (currentBatteryPercent != LastBatteryPercent) {
                  LastBatteryPercent = currentBatteryPercent;
                  sendBatteryLevel(currentBatteryPercent);
              }
            }
          
            #ifdef MY_DEBUG
              Serial.print("Preparing to sleep, pin ");
              Serial.println(GetNonConnectedPin());
              wait(50);
            #endif
          
            // Activate the non connected pin before setting up interrupt
            activatePin(GetNonConnectedPin());    
            // Sleep until something happens with the door sensor
            sleep(GetNonConnectedPin()-2, CHANGE);
          } 
          
          void activatePin(byte pin) {
            // Set pin as input
            pinMode(pin, INPUT);
            // Activate internal pull up
            digitalWrite(pin, HIGH);
          }
          
          void deActivatePin(byte pin) {
            // Set back pin as output, low
            pinMode(pin, OUTPUT);
            digitalWrite(pin, LOW);
          }
          
          // Will check if pin is grounded (returns true) or not
          boolean checkPinIsConnected(byte pin) {
            activatePin(pin);
          
            // Read value
            byte valPin = digitalRead(pin);
            deActivatePin(pin);
          
            #ifdef MY_DEBUG
              Serial.print("checkPinIsConnected pin = ");
              Serial.print(pin);
              Serial.print(", value = ");
              Serial.println(valPin);
            #endif
            
            return valPin != HIGH;
          }
          
          // Returns the pin that is not connected
          byte GetNonConnectedPin() {
            return (connectedPin == PRIMARY_BUTTON_PIN) ? SECONDARY_BUTTON_PIN : PRIMARY_BUTTON_PIN;
          }
          
          
          sundberg84S Offline
          sundberg84S Offline
          sundberg84
          Hardware Contributor
          wrote on last edited by
          #156

          @Nca78 Thanks. Someone else posted this as well. I will update this Inow rev 9 with some jumper or something.

          Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
          MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
          MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
          RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

          1 Reply Last reply
          1
          • C Offline
            C Offline
            chuckconnors
            wrote on last edited by
            #157

            Another real quick question. I have a simple sensor using a DHT11. I have this connected to D3 for signal and power and ground from the right holes. I'm getting an error saying it can't read temp/hum from the DHT. That set up should be right though? I also have a 4.7k ohm resistor in the board for D3 (that's the pin, right?).

            1 Reply Last reply
            0
            • sundberg84S Offline
              sundberg84S Offline
              sundberg84
              Hardware Contributor
              wrote on last edited by
              #158

              @chuckconnors - that right, see my post at 110 (https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/2740/easy-newbie-pcb-for-mysensors/110)
              I have the dht22 in the prototyping area but have made alot of dht22 attached directly to power/gnd and d3 pin on the mysx connector. Works great.

              Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
              MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
              MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
              RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

              C 1 Reply Last reply
              0
              • sundberg84S sundberg84

                @chuckconnors - that right, see my post at 110 (https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/2740/easy-newbie-pcb-for-mysensors/110)
                I have the dht22 in the prototyping area but have made alot of dht22 attached directly to power/gnd and d3 pin on the mysx connector. Works great.

                C Offline
                C Offline
                chuckconnors
                wrote on last edited by
                #159

                @sundberg84 Thanks. Another dumb question: What is the difference between the RAW ad the PWR pads and when should I use one rather than the other?

                1 Reply Last reply
                0
                • sundberg84S Offline
                  sundberg84S Offline
                  sundberg84
                  Hardware Contributor
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #160

                  If you have unregulated power (RAW) within pro minis on board voltage regulater you can instead of using 5v regulated power use this and the arduino will convert it to 5v. I think the specs are 6-12v (with a varning on that clones can not handle 12v!). So for example if you have a 9v battery you can power everything with connecting this to RAW and GND instead of PWR and GND and the voltage regulater on the pro mini will output 5v for the rest of the PCB. @chuckconnors

                  Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
                  MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
                  MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
                  RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

                  1 Reply Last reply
                  0
                  • rchampR Offline
                    rchampR Offline
                    rchamp
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #161

                    what is the size of the mounting holes? i don't have a caliper yet to measure this small of a size (ordering on amazon)

                    sundberg84S 2 Replies Last reply
                    0
                    • rchampR Offline
                      rchampR Offline
                      rchamp
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #162

                      Just wanted to say great work on this board. I have the first one wired up w/ batteries, 3.3v APM w/led and regulations removed, voltage regulator, dht11 and motion w 3v mod and works wonderfully. Once I get my caliper in, I'll get the right mounting screws, finish my enclosure and post the pics.

                      1 Reply Last reply
                      0
                      • rchampR rchamp

                        what is the size of the mounting holes? i don't have a caliper yet to measure this small of a size (ordering on amazon)

                        sundberg84S Offline
                        sundberg84S Offline
                        sundberg84
                        Hardware Contributor
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #163

                        @rchamp said:

                        what is the size of the mounting holes? i don't have a caliper yet to measure this small of a size (ordering on amazon)

                        I dont have eagles at this computer, so I have to answer you tonight (8 hours) or so...
                        Thanks for the nice feedback!

                        Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
                        MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
                        MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
                        RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

                        1 Reply Last reply
                        0
                        • rchampR rchamp

                          what is the size of the mounting holes? i don't have a caliper yet to measure this small of a size (ordering on amazon)

                          sundberg84S Offline
                          sundberg84S Offline
                          sundberg84
                          Hardware Contributor
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #164

                          @rchamp - sorry for later reply, the mounting holes are 2mm or 78.7mil.

                          Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
                          MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
                          MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
                          RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

                          rchampR 1 Reply Last reply
                          0
                          • sundberg84S sundberg84

                            @rchamp - sorry for later reply, the mounting holes are 2mm or 78.7mil.

                            rchampR Offline
                            rchampR Offline
                            rchamp
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #165

                            @sundberg84
                            awesome thanks!

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                            • Nca78N Offline
                              Nca78N Offline
                              Nca78
                              Hardware Contributor
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #166

                              Hello, I ordered a second batch from PCBWay, it's ok except some components have a frame on the silkscreen, not very beautiful.
                              Just wanted to say that it was a pain to cut the 1.6mm PCB so this time I ordered in 0.8mm and it is sooooo easy to cut with regular cissors: no efforts and very clean cut ! So if you plan to cut the right part, order at 1mm or below, you will enjoy the cutting phase :D

                              0_1471603771833_board cut.jpg

                              sundberg84S 1 Reply Last reply
                              0
                              • Nca78N Nca78

                                Hello, I ordered a second batch from PCBWay, it's ok except some components have a frame on the silkscreen, not very beautiful.
                                Just wanted to say that it was a pain to cut the 1.6mm PCB so this time I ordered in 0.8mm and it is sooooo easy to cut with regular cissors: no efforts and very clean cut ! So if you plan to cut the right part, order at 1mm or below, you will enjoy the cutting phase :D

                                0_1471603771833_board cut.jpg

                                sundberg84S Offline
                                sundberg84S Offline
                                sundberg84
                                Hardware Contributor
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #167

                                @Nca78 said:

                                it's ok except some components have a frame on the silkscreen, not very beautiful.

                                Sorry, I dont understand what you mean - can you give me a closeup photo? It should be functional AND beautiful :) If the silkscreen overlaps the copper parts this could interfer as well...

                                you will enjoy the cutting phase

                                I also learned it the hard way - and since there isnt any high power ciciut it should be ok to order very thin pcbs.
                                I used a metallic saw for one :persevere: and for some i cut a trace with a knife and bended it until it cracked.

                                Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
                                MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
                                MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
                                RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

                                Nca78N 1 Reply Last reply
                                0
                                • Martin TellblomM Offline
                                  Martin TellblomM Offline
                                  Martin Tellblom
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #168

                                  Just ordered 10 white bords, they look so great :)

                                  MySensors MQTT Client Gateway, Openhab, Dashing, Razberry, 1-wire

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                                  0
                                  • sundberg84S sundberg84

                                    @Nca78 said:

                                    it's ok except some components have a frame on the silkscreen, not very beautiful.

                                    Sorry, I dont understand what you mean - can you give me a closeup photo? It should be functional AND beautiful :) If the silkscreen overlaps the copper parts this could interfer as well...

                                    you will enjoy the cutting phase

                                    I also learned it the hard way - and since there isnt any high power ciciut it should be ok to order very thin pcbs.
                                    I used a metallic saw for one :persevere: and for some i cut a trace with a knife and bended it until it cracked.

                                    Nca78N Offline
                                    Nca78N Offline
                                    Nca78
                                    Hardware Contributor
                                    wrote on last edited by Nca78
                                    #169

                                    @sundberg84 said:

                                    Sorry, I dont understand what you mean - can you give me a closeup photo? It should be functional AND beautiful :) If the silkscreen overlaps the copper parts this could interfer as well...

                                    I fact it's the case only for the "Rev B" and licence text at the top left. No big deal but it was looking better without the frame from DirtyPCB

                                    I also learned it the hard way - and since there isnt any high power ciciut it should be ok to order very thin pcbs.
                                    I used a metallic saw for one :persevere: and for some i cut a trace with a knife and bended it until it cracked.

                                    I used the knife too (don't have a metal saw) with the 1.6mm PCBs and it was long and messy. Now it's just like a strong cardboard.

                                    1 Reply Last reply
                                    1
                                    • Q Offline
                                      Q Offline
                                      Qu3Uk
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #170

                                      I ordered some via DirtyPCB - Ordering via OpenHardware it seems to suggest you are buying Rev4. Says Rev4 under the order button at least.

                                      sundberg84S 1 Reply Last reply
                                      0
                                      • Q Qu3Uk

                                        I ordered some via DirtyPCB - Ordering via OpenHardware it seems to suggest you are buying Rev4. Says Rev4 under the order button at least.

                                        sundberg84S Offline
                                        sundberg84S Offline
                                        sundberg84
                                        Hardware Contributor
                                        wrote on last edited by sundberg84
                                        #171

                                        @Qu3Uk - Yes, and its missleading. Its rev 9 you are ordering but the fourth update on openhardware.io Its no problem ordering from there, I always update those gerber files first.

                                        Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
                                        MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
                                        MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
                                        RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

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                                        • dbemowskD Offline
                                          dbemowskD Offline
                                          dbemowsk
                                          wrote on last edited by dbemowsk
                                          #172

                                          I just wanted to make some suggestions for this board for the possible next revision. I recently ordered a 10 pack (which when I got it ended up being an 11 pack... BONUS BOARD).

                                          When I put together my first board there were some things that I noticed. First, the boards that I got are labeled as rev 8 boards, but there is one small difference from the one shown on the openhardware.io website.
                                          board differences
                                          The placement of the 4.7uf capacitor and the raw power connection holes next to the nRF24L01+ socket are reversed. The spot that you have for the 4.7uf capacitor for the nRF24L01+ radio module is just a bit too close to the nRF24 connector. It appears that the capacitor that you chose in your design software was for a ceramic type cap that has a wider hole spacing and is narrower. Choose one for an electrolytic cap and move it away from the nRF24 connector a bit more. This should give the closer hole spacing designed for a small electrolytic cap and leave enough room for it.

                                          Similarly the spot you have for the 10uf cap above the regulator appears to also be a design for a ceramic cap with the wider hole spacing. Selecting electrolytics for these should not only give you the correct hole spacing for the electrolytic, but it should also better mark where the negative lead of the cap needs to go on your silkscreen layer.

                                          The other thing that I wish this had was pads for a SMT AMS1117 regulator. This could be placed in the space under the nRF24 radio or just under the pro mini. You could do this in conjunction with the TO92 style that you have currently placed. It would give the board a bit more flexibility for users. In my parts box, I only had the AMS1117 regulators and not the TO92 style. I have since ordered some of the TO92 style, but having the flexibility for either would have been nice.

                                          Last but not least, it would be nice to have slightly larger corner mounting holes. I don't have many small screws that fit those holes, and I have none that would work with the standoffs that I use.

                                          Other than those few things, it seems like a rock solid board. Thanks for the hard work.

                                          Vera Plus running UI7 with MySensors, Sonoffs and 1-Wire devices
                                          Visit my website for more Bits, Bytes and Ramblings from me: http://dan.bemowski.info/

                                          sundberg84S 1 Reply Last reply
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