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  3. ๐Ÿ’ฌ Easy/Newbie PCB for MySensors

๐Ÿ’ฌ Easy/Newbie PCB for MySensors

Scheduled Pinned Locked Moved OpenHardware.io
mysensorsbatteryeasynewbiepcbmysx
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  • dark-nicoD Offline
    dark-nicoD Offline
    dark-nico
    wrote on last edited by
    #24

    Nice job thank you!
    This pcb is exactly what I needed to quickly assemble little sensors.
    I was waiting for your v7 upload, but I'm feeling pretty lucky about v8.
    What the mains differences beside making more room for the nrf24 ?

    1 Reply Last reply
    0
    • sundberg84S Offline
      sundberg84S Offline
      sundberg84
      Hardware Contributor
      wrote on last edited by
      #25

      @dark-nico The nrf24 doesnt go outside the PCB so much, and therefore its smaller. But because of that i had to move the 5 to 3.3volt regulator. Nothing else should be different.

      Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
      MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
      MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
      RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

      dark-nicoD 1 Reply Last reply
      0
      • sundberg84S sundberg84

        @dark-nico The nrf24 doesnt go outside the PCB so much, and therefore its smaller. But because of that i had to move the 5 to 3.3volt regulator. Nothing else should be different.

        dark-nicoD Offline
        dark-nicoD Offline
        dark-nico
        wrote on last edited by
        #26

        @sundberg84 Thanks for the quick reply.
        I've ordered a protopack, I'll let you know when I receive/test it.

        1 Reply Last reply
        1
        • L Offline
          L Offline
          lxz
          wrote on last edited by
          #27

          I also just ordered the rev8 board.
          Thanks for sharing, will post my results asap!

          1 Reply Last reply
          0
          • scooter217S Offline
            scooter217S Offline
            scooter217
            wrote on last edited by
            #28

            Looks like chinese new year is coming. On Dirtypcbs site: NEW ORDERS SHIP AFTER FEB. 16TH! IT IS SPRING FESTIVAL, CHINA IS CLOSED. YOU SHOULD KNOW THIS, IT IS THE BIGGEST COUNTRY AND ECONOMY IN THE WORLD, THEY MAKE ALLZ YOUR STUFFS! WE WILL NOT ANSWER ANY EMAILS ABOUT ORDERS PLACED IN THIS PERIOD! NO EXCEPTIONS, NO EMERGENCIES, NO NOTHING. A BIG NOTHING BURGER. GOT IT?!?!

            1 Reply Last reply
            1
            • A Offline
              A Offline
              Alexander
              wrote on last edited by
              #29

              @sundberg84 thanks for the nice design!
              I was not really aware of 'official' and 'unofficial' version (and version at all..) so just after the post of ar91 I followed the link to dirtypcbs and ordered 10 Rev6 boards. I will share my experiences here as soon as they arrive and see if it is worth while to order the rev8's. I like it that it is even smaller withour loosing functionality.

              1 Reply Last reply
              1
              • B Offline
                B Offline
                BastienVH
                wrote on last edited by
                #30

                @sundberg84
                Hey, I've been trying to get my boards to work, but without succes so far.
                They are revision 7 and have mounted 2 boards with a pro mini and the radio but they're not working.
                For the second one I actually checked both the arduino and radio beforehand to see if they functional, which they were.
                Now with them mounted, I still get the "radio init fail" message in the arduino serial monitor.
                The first board, I mounted with the cap, the second one not yet (I ran out of solder wire).

                Any ideas how to troubleshoot this?
                Should I upload some pictures so you can check the solderjob?

                1 Reply Last reply
                0
                • sundberg84S Offline
                  sundberg84S Offline
                  sundberg84
                  Hardware Contributor
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #31

                  Hi @BastienVH

                  Do you use 3.3 or 5v arduino?
                  How do you power it?
                  Did you solder the pinheader / jumper?

                  I have rev7 myself, and those works great for me.

                  Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
                  MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
                  MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
                  RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

                  1 Reply Last reply
                  0
                  • B Offline
                    B Offline
                    BastienVH
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #32

                    I have a 3.3v arduino.
                    At the moment it's powered the FTDI232 connected to my computer.
                    I will transfer to battery once I'm done.
                    Do you mean the "BAT" / "REG"?
                    I haven't soldered that. I'm guessing that's necessary?

                    Also, while I have you hear ;-) , if I want to use the battery measuring, do I have to add the 0.1uF capacitor?
                    What advantage does it provide?

                    Thanks for your help!

                    1 Reply Last reply
                    0
                    • sundberg84S Offline
                      sundberg84S Offline
                      sundberg84
                      Hardware Contributor
                      wrote on last edited by sundberg84
                      #33

                      If you use the FTDI connector, make sure its the 3.3v and connect it to Gnd/Pwr on the PCB and not Arduino FDTI connector.
                      You could just exclude those pins and connect a battery directly and use that as power and the FDTI as programmer/serial debug only

                      Bat or Reg is nessecary!
                      See this picture for battery use: https://www.openhardware.io/view/4/EasyNewbie-PCB-for-MySensors
                      https://www.openhardware.io/uploads/568ed84b60aa3f8965fbf095/image/3.jpg
                      All components in the image is needed (except battery measurment).
                      If you dont want to use booster you need to bypass that one with a wire/jumper (or set the jumper on REG instead of BAT but that kills the logic).

                      The battery doesnt "need" the 0,1uF but see here:https://www.mysensors.org/build/battery
                      "The tap point could be bypassed with a 0.1 uF capacitor to keep the noise level low, at this otherwise high impedance point. "

                      Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
                      MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
                      MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
                      RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

                      B 2 Replies Last reply
                      0
                      • sundberg84S sundberg84

                        If you use the FTDI connector, make sure its the 3.3v and connect it to Gnd/Pwr on the PCB and not Arduino FDTI connector.
                        You could just exclude those pins and connect a battery directly and use that as power and the FDTI as programmer/serial debug only

                        Bat or Reg is nessecary!
                        See this picture for battery use: https://www.openhardware.io/view/4/EasyNewbie-PCB-for-MySensors
                        https://www.openhardware.io/uploads/568ed84b60aa3f8965fbf095/image/3.jpg
                        All components in the image is needed (except battery measurment).
                        If you dont want to use booster you need to bypass that one with a wire/jumper (or set the jumper on REG instead of BAT but that kills the logic).

                        The battery doesnt "need" the 0,1uF but see here:https://www.mysensors.org/build/battery
                        "The tap point could be bypassed with a 0.1 uF capacitor to keep the noise level low, at this otherwise high impedance point. "

                        B Offline
                        B Offline
                        BastienVH
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #34

                        @sundberg84
                        Thanks for the explanation!
                        I think I've got it now.
                        Will test and get back with the results when I've gotten my hands on some more solder wire!

                        B 1 Reply Last reply
                        0
                        • AnticimexA Offline
                          AnticimexA Offline
                          Anticimex
                          Contest Winner
                          wrote on last edited by Anticimex
                          #35

                          Hi,
                          I see you use CERN OHL but I do not find the required files.
                          Where do you store those?
                          According to the CERN OHL 1.2 howto, you need to provide the following documentation with your project:
                          LICENSE.PDF
                          cern_ohl_v_1_2_howto.pdf
                          PRODUCT.TXT
                          CHANGES.TXT

                          Please check the howto closely for how to use the license, or pick another license. If it is not used according to spec, others don't need to follow it either since it is invalid, so you won't be "protected" by it.

                          Do you feel secure today? No? Start requiring some signatures and feel better tomorrow ;)

                          1 Reply Last reply
                          0
                          • B BastienVH

                            @sundberg84
                            Thanks for the explanation!
                            I think I've got it now.
                            Will test and get back with the results when I've gotten my hands on some more solder wire!

                            B Offline
                            B Offline
                            BastienVH
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #36

                            @BastienVH
                            Replying to myself to follow up on my assembly-issues.
                            I have been able to get the board to work.
                            I don't have my 0.1ยตF caps yet, so I just put a little blob of solder in the holes so the current could run through.
                            Now I've got myself 2 working board. I just have to find a good way to attach my PIR, dallas temp, ... to them.

                            Thanks for the work and help!

                            1 Reply Last reply
                            0
                            • ErrKE Offline
                              ErrKE Offline
                              ErrK
                              Plugin Developer
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #37

                              I'am now finnish with my first rev7 node.
                              It is a Arduino 5V with DHT-22 and a HC-SR501 sensor.
                              1_1454528676795_IMG_6223 copy.jpg
                              0_1454528676794_IMG_6224 copy.jpg

                              Good work @sundberg84 for the PCB

                              1 Reply Last reply
                              0
                              • sundberg84S Offline
                                sundberg84S Offline
                                sundberg84
                                Hardware Contributor
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #38

                                @BastienVH Good to hear - its not essential to have to 0.1uF cap on the voltage retulator, it will work without but its good to keep noice out.
                                @ErrK Nice, I see you run through RAW pin and using the internal voltage regulator on the arduino - I have not tested that much, does it work ok?

                                Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
                                MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
                                MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
                                RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

                                B ErrKE 2 Replies Last reply
                                0
                                • sundberg84S sundberg84

                                  @BastienVH Good to hear - its not essential to have to 0.1uF cap on the voltage retulator, it will work without but its good to keep noice out.
                                  @ErrK Nice, I see you run through RAW pin and using the internal voltage regulator on the arduino - I have not tested that much, does it work ok?

                                  B Offline
                                  B Offline
                                  BastienVH
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #39

                                  @sundberg84
                                  When I get the caps, I'll place them on the board.
                                  I did notice alot of noise when I was reading battery state on a breadboard in an earlier build, so I will get that sorted.
                                  Only problem is I can't find them locally, so have to get them from China.
                                  Will take a while...

                                  1 Reply Last reply
                                  0
                                  • sundberg84S sundberg84

                                    @BastienVH Good to hear - its not essential to have to 0.1uF cap on the voltage retulator, it will work without but its good to keep noice out.
                                    @ErrK Nice, I see you run through RAW pin and using the internal voltage regulator on the arduino - I have not tested that much, does it work ok?

                                    ErrKE Offline
                                    ErrKE Offline
                                    ErrK
                                    Plugin Developer
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #40

                                    @sundberg84 yes it's working good. But the problem is that it's eating up the batteries :)
                                    It was up for only 15days.

                                    I will now test with a arduino that i have removed the led and volt regulator.

                                    1 Reply Last reply
                                    0
                                    • sundberg84S Offline
                                      sundberg84S Offline
                                      sundberg84
                                      Hardware Contributor
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #41

                                      Sounds good @ErrK - dont forget to power it through REG and not RAW on the PCB and add a jumper on REG since it wont work if you use the same setup as in the images and remove voltage regulator.

                                      Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
                                      MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
                                      MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
                                      RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

                                      ErrKE 1 Reply Last reply
                                      0
                                      • sundberg84S sundberg84

                                        Sounds good @ErrK - dont forget to power it through REG and not RAW on the PCB and add a jumper on REG since it wont work if you use the same setup as in the images and remove voltage regulator.

                                        ErrKE Offline
                                        ErrKE Offline
                                        ErrK
                                        Plugin Developer
                                        wrote on last edited by
                                        #42

                                        Thank you @sundberg84. I will think of that.

                                        1 Reply Last reply
                                        0
                                        • BarnaB Offline
                                          BarnaB Offline
                                          Barna
                                          wrote on last edited by
                                          #43

                                          Hi,
                                          Why have you redesigned from rev7 to rev8?
                                          When will the rev8 be tested ?

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