PIR am312
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Unfortunately, the link you posted (https://forum.mysensors.org/assets/uploads/files/1493990586841-pir-as312.pdf) reports file not found.
Since links aren't working, can someone upload the pdf of the datasheet to this thread as a file attachment?
[Edit: That's funny: After I posted the link, now when I click on it I'm now granted access! So, I'll attach it to this post now that I finally have it.]0_1494013513879_1493990586841-pir-as312.pdf
Hopefully others can now access the re-uploaded version. -
For Halloween, it would be pretty amusing to have the PIR turn on some eyeballs like this:
https://cdn-shop.adafruit.com/product-videos/1200x900/3356-05.mp4
especially if you had about 6 of them scattered about. -
Missed this thread last week...
Just tested mine today with 3.3V supply and I have similar current consumption, around 15µA on my multimeter but the full board in sleep mode. It's staying active as long as there's movement detected, and seems stable: no interference from NRF24 radio when sending updated state to gateway.But I have poor range, I'm not sure why, maybe the orientation of sensor/lens, or maybe the hot temperature, over 30°C, I will do more tests tomorrow if I can.
I tested with a not very well aligned fresnel lens from a SR501 I can detect at over 4mI've got some AM612 too, with extra setting for active duration & sensibility, and an OEN pin to enable output based on analog signal (on datasheet example they use it with a photoresistor). If I believe the very similar detection profiles in the datasheets it's the same sensor but the AS312 has settings hardwired in the "can".
Not sure if 2 AA/AAA is the best solution, I would go for lithium cells. CR2032 would probably have too short battery life in a busy room (somewhere around 6 months) but bigger cells like 2477 or CR123 (>1000mAh) would last way over 1 year. Compared to AA they have the big advantage of staying over the 2.7V minimum value in the datasheet for most of their life.
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Missed this thread last week...
Just tested mine today with 3.3V supply and I have similar current consumption, around 15µA on my multimeter but the full board in sleep mode. It's staying active as long as there's movement detected, and seems stable: no interference from NRF24 radio when sending updated state to gateway.But I have poor range, I'm not sure why, maybe the orientation of sensor/lens, or maybe the hot temperature, over 30°C, I will do more tests tomorrow if I can.
I tested with a not very well aligned fresnel lens from a SR501 I can detect at over 4mI've got some AM612 too, with extra setting for active duration & sensibility, and an OEN pin to enable output based on analog signal (on datasheet example they use it with a photoresistor). If I believe the very similar detection profiles in the datasheets it's the same sensor but the AS312 has settings hardwired in the "can".
Not sure if 2 AA/AAA is the best solution, I would go for lithium cells. CR2032 would probably have too short battery life in a busy room (somewhere around 6 months) but bigger cells like 2477 or CR123 (>1000mAh) would last way over 1 year. Compared to AA they have the big advantage of staying over the 2.7V minimum value in the datasheet for most of their life.
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Missed this thread last week...
Just tested mine today with 3.3V supply and I have similar current consumption, around 15µA on my multimeter but the full board in sleep mode. It's staying active as long as there's movement detected, and seems stable: no interference from NRF24 radio when sending updated state to gateway.But I have poor range, I'm not sure why, maybe the orientation of sensor/lens, or maybe the hot temperature, over 30°C, I will do more tests tomorrow if I can.
I tested with a not very well aligned fresnel lens from a SR501 I can detect at over 4mI've got some AM612 too, with extra setting for active duration & sensibility, and an OEN pin to enable output based on analog signal (on datasheet example they use it with a photoresistor). If I believe the very similar detection profiles in the datasheets it's the same sensor but the AS312 has settings hardwired in the "can".
Not sure if 2 AA/AAA is the best solution, I would go for lithium cells. CR2032 would probably have too short battery life in a busy room (somewhere around 6 months) but bigger cells like 2477 or CR123 (>1000mAh) would last way over 1 year. Compared to AA they have the big advantage of staying over the 2.7V minimum value in the datasheet for most of their life.
Not sure if 2 AA/AAA is the best solution, I would go for lithium cells. CR2032 would probably have too short battery life in a busy room (somewhere around 6 months) but bigger cells like 2477 or CR123 (>1000mAh) would last way over 1 year. Compared to AA they have the big advantage of staying over the 2.7V minimum value in the datasheet for most of their life.
In most cases I'm planning to use solar and a supercap. Then, no more batteries to change!
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it is all a matter of node size and if you like to have solar panels around the house (never forget the WAF :D )
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how about the lens? Did you make a case for it?
I will test using lens from AM312 & from SR501 (made the space and holes for that on the PCB). I have ordered some other ones from AliExpress, too.
No case yet as I just spent a lot of nearly sleepless nights finishing a lot of PCBs. Now time for code preparation before I receive the boards, then 3D design and tests while the 3D printer is printing :) -
how about the lens? Did you make a case for it?
I will test using lens from AM312 & from SR501 (made the space and holes for that on the PCB). I have ordered some other ones from AliExpress, too.
No case yet as I just spent a lot of nearly sleepless nights finishing a lot of PCBs. Now time for code preparation before I receive the boards, then 3D design and tests while the 3D printer is printing :)I really like your PCB layouts. Is that Eagle, or some other package that you're using? I'm using Diptrace, which meets my needs and was easy to learn, but your package looks like it's more polished and easier to see both sides of the board at the same time.
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I really like your PCB layouts. Is that Eagle, or some other package that you're using? I'm using Diptrace, which meets my needs and was easy to learn, but your package looks like it's more polished and easier to see both sides of the board at the same time.
I really like your PCB layouts. Is that Eagle, or some other package that you're using? I'm using Diptrace, which meets my needs and was easy to learn, but your package looks like it's more polished and easier to see both sides of the board at the same time.
Yes that's eagle, found it pretty easy to learn also.
But I made my last PCBs with it this week I think, I will switch to KiCad to avoid the annoying limitations in Eagle. It will be a pain to learn everything again, but at least I won't miss the autorouter as I love routing :D -
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@AWI Thank you for your photo. Without it, I'm not sure how I would have deduced the correct pinout.
So far I've only powered it up--and with merely a DMM attached to the output pin--but as a quick test it seems to work.
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@AWI Thank you for your photo. Without it, I'm not sure how I would have deduced the correct pinout.
There are some tiny '+' and '-' signs on the breakout board near the pins but they are barely visible.
On mine I don't see any pinout markings at all.
I used a uCurrent Gold to measure the current, and and at 3.3v my measurements came out at 13.1ua in standby mode and 14.3ua at "motion detected" mode. I haven't tested it for false positives yet (it may take a while to gather the data on that), but so far I'm impressed. Nice find!
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So, I made a little test jig to try it out. It seems to have roughly 4 detection "zones" with fairly wide gaps between them where it's more or less blind. Also, if I walk straight at it from the front, it doesn't detect me until I'm about 3 feet away. So, although I'm no expert, I'd say the detection coverage is kinda spotty. Maybe the small domed plastic optics are sub-optimal? Has anyone tried alternatives?
Just thinking out loud, but maybe you can use two and by skewing their alignment try to make it so that the gaps in one are mostly covered by the detection zones of the other, and visa versa?
Not sure how to make the best use of this yet, but I do like the very low power consumption. I think there's a pony in there somewhere, and we just need to find it.
Anyone have ideas?
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Did that resonate with anyone? Has anyone else observed "the problem" I described? If not, maybe I set it up wrong.
