💬 AC-DC double solid state relay module
-
this looks like a great project. Have anyone made a complete shopping / whish-list on Alibaba for all the components needed? ( I´m lookin for safest version possible =)
Many thanks,
Henrik@badmannen I have ordered nearly everything on aliexpress but I had to buy from many different sellers to have everything, I don't know if they are all reliable, I will know in 3-4 weeks and then post the links for the items I received.
I took some 250mA fuses as no one was selling 200mA slow fuses on aliexpress, and also some 77°C temp fuses instead of the 73° because they were less than half the price. I'll grill one or two to make sure they are real temp fuses when I receive them ;)Not sure if I order the PCBs from DirtyPCB now or if I wait to received my previous (and first order there) to be sure they will reach my mailbox...
-
this looks like a great project. Have anyone made a complete shopping / whish-list on Alibaba for all the components needed? ( I´m lookin for safest version possible =)
Many thanks,
Henrik@badmannen I have just received my temp fuses, 1 of the 10 is dead, I tested one that was ok to make sure it was a temp fuse. I used the thermometer function on my multimeter and heated at the same time with my soldering iron at lowest temperature possible (200°C).
Heated until thermometer reached 50°C, fuse was still ok.
Heated again a bit longer and I heard some noise when thermometer went over 60°C. I stopped and checked: the fuse was blown. Given that multimeter thermometer is not extremely precise and has some lag to increase the temperature, I think the claim of 77°C cut off is probably right or at least not far from reality. And at least I'm sure these are temp fuses. I'm not testing another one as I have only 8 left now and I'm nearly sure I'll burn a few when soldering :D[edit] 77° fuses not sold anymore :(
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/10pcs-lot-RY77-TF-77-Degree-Celsius-77C-10A-250V-Temperature-Thermal-Fuse/32577243105.html
I will order that next, from same seller, look like the same fuses, just 72°C which should be fine in our case.
http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/20pcs-lot-RY72-TF-72-Degree-Celsius-72C-10A-250V-Temperature-Thermal-Fuse/1021664_32660871006.html -
Hi @aproxx , very nice module! Just one question: after studying the board I still not quite understand how an existing light switch needs to be connected. There are 3 connecters, one for AC and two relays. Where do I connect the light switch to?
Cheers! Sacha
-
@badmannen I have just received my temp fuses, 1 of the 10 is dead, I tested one that was ok to make sure it was a temp fuse. I used the thermometer function on my multimeter and heated at the same time with my soldering iron at lowest temperature possible (200°C).
Heated until thermometer reached 50°C, fuse was still ok.
Heated again a bit longer and I heard some noise when thermometer went over 60°C. I stopped and checked: the fuse was blown. Given that multimeter thermometer is not extremely precise and has some lag to increase the temperature, I think the claim of 77°C cut off is probably right or at least not far from reality. And at least I'm sure these are temp fuses. I'm not testing another one as I have only 8 left now and I'm nearly sure I'll burn a few when soldering :D[edit] 77° fuses not sold anymore :(
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/10pcs-lot-RY77-TF-77-Degree-Celsius-77C-10A-250V-Temperature-Thermal-Fuse/32577243105.html
I will order that next, from same seller, look like the same fuses, just 72°C which should be fine in our case.
http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/20pcs-lot-RY72-TF-72-Degree-Celsius-72C-10A-250V-Temperature-Thermal-Fuse/1021664_32660871006.html -
Hello all, I finished my version of this idea! Thank you to @aproxx for the help! I used a ATMEGA328, this wil make it a bit cheaper. https://www.openhardware.io/view/83
I need some help validating the layout, most important the 220v traces and the capacitors used in the layout!
Thank you all
@Soloam said:
Hello all, I finished my version of this idea! Thank you to @aproxx for the help! I used a ATMEGA328, this wil make it a bit cheaper. https://www.openhardware.io/view/83
I need some help validating the layout, most important the 220v traces and the capacitors used in the layout!
Thank you all
Is there any news on this design?
-
@Nca78 Thanks alot for the detailed info! really appreciate it. keep it coming pros and cons if any if you notice something
//Henrik
@badmannen said:
@Nca78 Thanks alot for the detailed info! really appreciate it. keep it coming pros and cons if any if you notice something
//Henrik
You're welcome. I ordered 72°C fuses as in my previous link. Seller agreed to add one to replace the broken 77°C I received last week.I received the varistors, ssd relays and regulators, all correctly packaged in padded envelopes. Not tested yet, I will update this post later if I see a problem, but I'm not sure how I can efficiently test the varistors...
-
@badmannen said:
@Nca78 Thanks alot for the detailed info! really appreciate it. keep it coming pros and cons if any if you notice something
//Henrik
You're welcome. I ordered 72°C fuses as in my previous link. Seller agreed to add one to replace the broken 77°C I received last week.I received the varistors, ssd relays and regulators, all correctly packaged in padded envelopes. Not tested yet, I will update this post later if I see a problem, but I'm not sure how I can efficiently test the varistors...
-
@dpressle said:
@Nca78 How is the LE33 working for you? i couldn't make it drive the NRF...
As I said I didn't have time to test the last batch of components yet.
It's suprising as the LE33 is supposed to allow up to 100mA current, that should be enough for the NRF. Not sure I will use them any as I have some 3.3V nanos and also some 3.3V HLKs so I could bypass it.
I will test anyway and keep you updated.[edit] All components (slow blow fuses, capacitors,...) received, I'm just waiting for the PCBs now. And for some time to test :)
-
Hi,
can we install this module in a wall ?
Can we command shutters ?
Thx -
I updated source file for this module, so it supports MySensors 2.0 now and sends temperature data too. You can pick it at my github page. Total size for 'Arduino Pro or Pro Mini w/ ATmega328 (5V, 16 MHz)'
Program size: 13Â 396 bytes (used 44% of a 30Â 720 byte maximum) (2,78 secs)
Minimum Memory Usage: 614 bytes (30% of a 2048 byte maximum) -
Hi,
can we install this module in a wall ?
Can we command shutters ?
Thx@tonnerre33 said:
Hi,
can we install this module in a wall ?
Can we command shutters ?For the wall, that's the idea of keeping the 50*50mm size :)
For the shutters technically yes, but there are (at least) 2 problems :- if you have the 2 relays on at the same time = 2 directions you will probably kill the motor, there is no hardware protection on this board to avoid that (one of the relays must have power only when the other one is in off state). This can be done in software so it's not blocking.
- if you want to be able to control the level/percentage of closing, you need to measure time from min to max position, to do that you need to measure current (when motor stop consuming current it means shutter has reached it's 0% or 100% position). But there is no current sensor on this board, so you either need to implement a manual calibration process (that will lose precision over time) or use only manual control.
I am planning to test it when I have some time, and when I receive the PCB.
-
Hi Approx
Thanks for the effort here. I have all the bits except for the PCBs which were shipped a week ago so not far off. -
@dpressle my experience shows, that this PCB works fine with LE33 when powered from mains, however nrf fails to receive data, when powered from FTDI through arduino.
-
@Konstantin-Kolesnichenko what voltage is selected on the ftdi adapter ? If it's 3.3V it's not surprising as the LE33 needs over 3.5V (3.3V + 0.2V voltage drop).
-
@okos said:
Hello, i have question can i use arduino pro mini 3.3 V?
http://s.aliexpress.com/zmyyY7BV
Thanx
I will try to use one and HLK-PM03 generating 3.3V, and bypassing the regulator on the PCB.
The only question is about the SSR relays, they are supposed to work with 5V logic levels, I need to test the relays I have received work reliably with 3.3V logic.
Datasheet says operating range is 4-6V but 4V is the maximum value at which they should switch on, so there's some hope here ;) -
@tonnerre33 said:
Hi,
can we install this module in a wall ?
Can we command shutters ?For the wall, that's the idea of keeping the 50*50mm size :)
For the shutters technically yes, but there are (at least) 2 problems :- if you have the 2 relays on at the same time = 2 directions you will probably kill the motor, there is no hardware protection on this board to avoid that (one of the relays must have power only when the other one is in off state). This can be done in software so it's not blocking.
- if you want to be able to control the level/percentage of closing, you need to measure time from min to max position, to do that you need to measure current (when motor stop consuming current it means shutter has reached it's 0% or 100% position). But there is no current sensor on this board, so you either need to implement a manual calibration process (that will lose precision over time) or use only manual control.
I am planning to test it when I have some time, and when I receive the PCB.
@Nca78 thanx for your answer ;)
You are right, 2 directions can kill the motor that's why we need one relay for on/off the motor and the other for command up/down.
But for command up/down, and in order to do an hardware protection, we can use an inversor relay.
Do you know an inversor relay with the same size ? I didn't find that kind of relay :(
