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  1. Home
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  3. What did you build today (Pictures) ?

What did you build today (Pictures) ?

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  • sundberg84S sundberg84

    Today I designed a case for EasyPCB with 2xAA holder on the back.

    e63319a9-b160-47ea-be2b-6b3353636e06-image.png
    a7bd451f-72d7-4004-88b0-64c43dd0e192-image.png

    and a case that slides just over.

    269327e4-e5b7-4e28-85d6-183862119e61-image.png

    It works with 3x5 version so for this you accually have to use the more advanced option and reflash the fuses on your pro mini to make it 3x5. The normal EasyPCB with booster is 5x5, but Im thinking of just stretching this for another version.

    mfalkviddM Offline
    mfalkviddM Offline
    mfalkvidd
    Mod
    wrote on last edited by
    #920

    @sundberg84 just a suggestion; wouldn't it be good to move the batteries to the right (instead of the left) so they block the nrf antenna less?

    sundberg84S 1 Reply Last reply
    1
    • mfalkviddM mfalkvidd

      @sundberg84 just a suggestion; wouldn't it be good to move the batteries to the right (instead of the left) so they block the nrf antenna less?

      sundberg84S Offline
      sundberg84S Offline
      sundberg84
      Hardware Contributor
      wrote on last edited by
      #921

      @mfalkvidd - a great suggestion! It wont not block it completely but as you say, a little less.

      Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
      MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
      MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
      RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

      1 Reply Last reply
      0
      • NeverDieN Offline
        NeverDieN Offline
        NeverDie
        Hero Member
        wrote on last edited by NeverDie
        #922

        Here's another idea too: if you were to add a blank copper cladded FR4 between the batteries and the PCB above it, with a cut-out below where the antenna is, then maybe you'd have a much improved ground plane, making your radio awesome? You could have little drawer like grooves on the side of your case to slide the copper cladded FR4 into position, and, of course, you would want a ground connection to it.

        1 Reply Last reply
        1
        • sundberg84S Offline
          sundberg84S Offline
          sundberg84
          Hardware Contributor
          wrote on last edited by
          #923

          Not sure about that groundplane @NeverDie - you are most probably right but I dont really understand the theory behind it but sounds really cool!

          3f1897f8-e82a-4554-92bf-ac16a9fe3045-image.png

          Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
          MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
          MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
          RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

          NeverDieN 1 Reply Last reply
          0
          • sundberg84S sundberg84

            Not sure about that groundplane @NeverDie - you are most probably right but I dont really understand the theory behind it but sounds really cool!

            3f1897f8-e82a-4554-92bf-ac16a9fe3045-image.png

            NeverDieN Offline
            NeverDieN Offline
            NeverDie
            Hero Member
            wrote on last edited by NeverDie
            #924

            @sundberg84 Here's all the theory you need in one picture:
            alt text
            Most of the modules use a monopole antenna, and as near as I can tell, most of them, if not all of them, have insufficient ground plane. It still works, of course, but it's impaired over what it would be with a better ground plane. I think maybe that's why whenever someone switches to a dipole antenna they generally notice a huge improvement. So, there's always that, but your design is nice because it's so compact, and a dipole would spoil that.

            sundberg84S 1 Reply Last reply
            0
            • NeverDieN NeverDie

              @sundberg84 Here's all the theory you need in one picture:
              alt text
              Most of the modules use a monopole antenna, and as near as I can tell, most of them, if not all of them, have insufficient ground plane. It still works, of course, but it's impaired over what it would be with a better ground plane. I think maybe that's why whenever someone switches to a dipole antenna they generally notice a huge improvement. So, there's always that, but your design is nice because it's so compact, and a dipole would spoil that.

              sundberg84S Offline
              sundberg84S Offline
              sundberg84
              Hardware Contributor
              wrote on last edited by
              #925

              @NeverDie - so a ground plane like in here? Like that mod Pete did in his video but you inmplement it into the 3d case?

              3214fd69-c25b-4aa6-a2df-fdd54de776ed-image.png

              Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
              MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
              MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
              RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

              1 Reply Last reply
              1
              • NeverDieN Offline
                NeverDieN Offline
                NeverDie
                Hero Member
                wrote on last edited by
                #926

                Yeah, the flat piece that the red line points to. I'm not sure what those black spray painted things are, so I'm ignoring those.

                1 Reply Last reply
                1
                • NeverDieN Offline
                  NeverDieN Offline
                  NeverDie
                  Hero Member
                  wrote on last edited by NeverDie
                  #927

                  Made a dead-bug op-amp circuit to help measure open-circuit voltages created by nano-amp currents generated by a solar cell illuminated by just 1 lux of very dim light:
                  alt text
                  This picture is actually just the LDO part of the op-amp circuit, where I was able to solder the prescribed surface mount capacitors directly between its pins. The larger circuit is described on this thread: https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/10812/the-harvester-ultimate-power-supply-for-the-raybeacon-dk/122
                  Why dead-bug you ask? Since the circuit depends on the correct measurement of the effects of mere nanoamps, I didn't want any leakage currents that might happen on a protoboard, which can be significant when it's just a small number of nanoamps and their effects that's under scrutiny.

                  1 Reply Last reply
                  1
                  • sundberg84S Offline
                    sundberg84S Offline
                    sundberg84
                    Hardware Contributor
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #928

                    Updated my GW with the code @mfalkvidd provided to monitor OK and NACK

                    a2a53f2e-6227-451f-baf6-bc2ed2d66111-image.png

                    Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
                    MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
                    MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
                    RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

                    1 Reply Last reply
                    4
                    • nagelcN Offline
                      nagelcN Offline
                      nagelc
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #929

                      I got tired of twisting DuPont cabels to get from different programmers to different boards.
                      This is an adapter that lets me connect the programmers I commonly use (Jlink-mini, BMP, STLink clone) with the boards I commonly program with straight through wires. I left a couple unpopulated for future in and out.

                      jlink_adapter.jpg

                      1 Reply Last reply
                      2
                      • tbowmoT Offline
                        tbowmoT Offline
                        tbowmo
                        Admin
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #930

                        Finally I am starting to do a little electronics again.. First thing is a prototype assembly of RASLE (Rpi Arcade Sound and Light Extension). It's a custom made arduino "coprocessor" for a raspberry pi, built into retropie arcade cabinets. It's a joint project with a couple of friends that are building arcade cabinets (I built mine a couple of years ago, I think that there is pictures earlier in this thread).

                        20200331_175528.jpg

                        Features:

                        • stereo 3W class-d amplifier
                        • atmega328p
                          • 3 pwm channels for LED strips
                          • a port for WS2812 type led strips
                          • pwm channel for fan
                          • output for a relay to control mains input for the box (let the rpi shutdown cleanly, before disconnecting power)
                          • 5 button inputs (shared between rpi and atmega)
                        1 Reply Last reply
                        2
                        • franz-unixF Offline
                          franz-unixF Offline
                          franz-unix
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #931

                          Hi, finished two nodes based on the same multi-purpose battery powered pcb (all the documentation here)

                          One is a door / window sensor based on a Reed switch.

                          20200223_175402.jpg 20200223_175502.jpg

                          If someone is interested, the dedicated wiki page contains the detailed build instructions.

                          The other is a soil moisture sensor.

                          final-1.jpg cover.jpg

                          For this one, the wiki page is here.

                          Happy Easter, even if at home!

                          1 Reply Last reply
                          3
                          • NeverDieN Offline
                            NeverDieN Offline
                            NeverDie
                            Hero Member
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #932

                            Anyone know or have experience with how well the underlying capacitive soil moisture sensors hold up over the long term? Clearly they're better than the cheap conductive electrode kind, which for most people don't last very long at all, but I recollect reading that water ultimately invades the PCB enough on even the capacitive designs that it goes kaput. Maybe they've been improved since then or maybe there are now known tricks for how to fortify them against that happening?

                            franz-unixF BearWithBeardB berkseoB A 4 Replies Last reply
                            0
                            • NeverDieN NeverDie

                              Anyone know or have experience with how well the underlying capacitive soil moisture sensors hold up over the long term? Clearly they're better than the cheap conductive electrode kind, which for most people don't last very long at all, but I recollect reading that water ultimately invades the PCB enough on even the capacitive designs that it goes kaput. Maybe they've been improved since then or maybe there are now known tricks for how to fortify them against that happening?

                              franz-unixF Offline
                              franz-unixF Offline
                              franz-unix
                              wrote on last edited by franz-unix
                              #933

                              @NeverDie Good question. My is too young (2 days) to say something.

                              Here a possible solution. See at about 9:50

                              1 Reply Last reply
                              1
                              • NeverDieN NeverDie

                                Anyone know or have experience with how well the underlying capacitive soil moisture sensors hold up over the long term? Clearly they're better than the cheap conductive electrode kind, which for most people don't last very long at all, but I recollect reading that water ultimately invades the PCB enough on even the capacitive designs that it goes kaput. Maybe they've been improved since then or maybe there are now known tricks for how to fortify them against that happening?

                                BearWithBeardB Offline
                                BearWithBeardB Offline
                                BearWithBeard
                                wrote on last edited by BearWithBeard
                                #934

                                @NeverDie The guy with the swiss accent once said that you can coat the capacitive soil moisture sensors with a water resistant varnish or put it inside a waterproof shell.

                                https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=udmJyncDvw0
                                starting at ~7 mins.

                                @franz-unix Ha, Great minds think alike. :D

                                franz-unixF YveauxY 2 Replies Last reply
                                2
                                • BearWithBeardB BearWithBeard

                                  @NeverDie The guy with the swiss accent once said that you can coat the capacitive soil moisture sensors with a water resistant varnish or put it inside a waterproof shell.

                                  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=udmJyncDvw0
                                  starting at ~7 mins.

                                  @franz-unix Ha, Great minds think alike. :D

                                  franz-unixF Offline
                                  franz-unixF Offline
                                  franz-unix
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #935

                                  @BearWithBeard :+1: :grin: I love the video of the swiss guy!

                                  1 Reply Last reply
                                  1
                                  • BearWithBeardB BearWithBeard

                                    @NeverDie The guy with the swiss accent once said that you can coat the capacitive soil moisture sensors with a water resistant varnish or put it inside a waterproof shell.

                                    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=udmJyncDvw0
                                    starting at ~7 mins.

                                    @franz-unix Ha, Great minds think alike. :D

                                    YveauxY Offline
                                    YveauxY Offline
                                    Yveaux
                                    Mod
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #936

                                    @BearWithBeard ah, now I know who 'the guy with the Swiss accent' is :)

                                    http://yveaux.blogspot.nl

                                    1 Reply Last reply
                                    0
                                    • sundberg84S Offline
                                      sundberg84S Offline
                                      sundberg84
                                      Hardware Contributor
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #937

                                      Today I have a very strange problem. I have created a new outdoor sensor which is powered by a 240v-5v HLK module. Its working VERY intermittent and should send data every 5 minutes (no exceptions).

                                      Whats even more strange is that, when my outside node (called multi) is working, I have a battery powered node (sleep 15 min - send - sleep) that seems to go down, and the other way around (not always, but quite frequent - could be very unrelated but I have notised it a couple of times now).
                                      58a6f282-5b04-4bbc-90f4-6b0f0af37261-image.png

                                      Anyhow, Im very glad i build my logger node - works great once more. I use this so often and really recommend all with a bigger network to have some sort of mobile debugger. Most of the times I use the bluetooth module (2xAA powered) but at this point I have my node on my workbench powered by a USB adapter (orange wires). I then parasite power from the node to run the debugger and is now logging everything to a sd-card.

                                      503d3040-7208-4e95-a6cc-cb3128d24c17-image.png

                                      Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
                                      MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
                                      MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
                                      RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

                                      1 Reply Last reply
                                      2
                                      • mfalkviddM Offline
                                        mfalkviddM Offline
                                        mfalkvidd
                                        Mod
                                        wrote on last edited by
                                        #938

                                        In case anyone hasn't seen the logger before, it is available at https://www.openhardware.io/view/532/The-Logger-Machine-Short-and-long-term-serial-logging

                                        1 Reply Last reply
                                        2
                                        • sundberg84S Offline
                                          sundberg84S Offline
                                          sundberg84
                                          Hardware Contributor
                                          wrote on last edited by sundberg84
                                          #939

                                          Another picture from today:
                                          cd572dd2-1092-478e-bb59-6200ef28ad7a-image.png

                                          Just started working with coincells - CR2032 to be exact. Anyone knows why the battery % varies with the given temperature? Are those coincells very temp. dependent or I have made a misstake somewhere... ???

                                          Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
                                          MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
                                          MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
                                          RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

                                          Nca78N YveauxY 2 Replies Last reply
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