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  1. Home
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  3. What did you build today (Pictures) ?

What did you build today (Pictures) ?

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  • NeverDieN NeverDie

    Anyone know or have experience with how well the underlying capacitive soil moisture sensors hold up over the long term? Clearly they're better than the cheap conductive electrode kind, which for most people don't last very long at all, but I recollect reading that water ultimately invades the PCB enough on even the capacitive designs that it goes kaput. Maybe they've been improved since then or maybe there are now known tricks for how to fortify them against that happening?

    BearWithBeardB Offline
    BearWithBeardB Offline
    BearWithBeard
    wrote on last edited by BearWithBeard
    #934

    @NeverDie The guy with the swiss accent once said that you can coat the capacitive soil moisture sensors with a water resistant varnish or put it inside a waterproof shell.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=udmJyncDvw0
    starting at ~7 mins.

    @franz-unix Ha, Great minds think alike. :D

    franz-unixF YveauxY 2 Replies Last reply
    2
    • BearWithBeardB BearWithBeard

      @NeverDie The guy with the swiss accent once said that you can coat the capacitive soil moisture sensors with a water resistant varnish or put it inside a waterproof shell.

      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=udmJyncDvw0
      starting at ~7 mins.

      @franz-unix Ha, Great minds think alike. :D

      franz-unixF Offline
      franz-unixF Offline
      franz-unix
      wrote on last edited by
      #935

      @BearWithBeard :+1: :grin: I love the video of the swiss guy!

      1 Reply Last reply
      1
      • BearWithBeardB BearWithBeard

        @NeverDie The guy with the swiss accent once said that you can coat the capacitive soil moisture sensors with a water resistant varnish or put it inside a waterproof shell.

        https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=udmJyncDvw0
        starting at ~7 mins.

        @franz-unix Ha, Great minds think alike. :D

        YveauxY Offline
        YveauxY Offline
        Yveaux
        Mod
        wrote on last edited by
        #936

        @BearWithBeard ah, now I know who 'the guy with the Swiss accent' is :)

        http://yveaux.blogspot.nl

        1 Reply Last reply
        0
        • sundberg84S Offline
          sundberg84S Offline
          sundberg84
          Hardware Contributor
          wrote on last edited by
          #937

          Today I have a very strange problem. I have created a new outdoor sensor which is powered by a 240v-5v HLK module. Its working VERY intermittent and should send data every 5 minutes (no exceptions).

          Whats even more strange is that, when my outside node (called multi) is working, I have a battery powered node (sleep 15 min - send - sleep) that seems to go down, and the other way around (not always, but quite frequent - could be very unrelated but I have notised it a couple of times now).
          58a6f282-5b04-4bbc-90f4-6b0f0af37261-image.png

          Anyhow, Im very glad i build my logger node - works great once more. I use this so often and really recommend all with a bigger network to have some sort of mobile debugger. Most of the times I use the bluetooth module (2xAA powered) but at this point I have my node on my workbench powered by a USB adapter (orange wires). I then parasite power from the node to run the debugger and is now logging everything to a sd-card.

          503d3040-7208-4e95-a6cc-cb3128d24c17-image.png

          Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
          MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
          MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
          RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

          1 Reply Last reply
          2
          • mfalkviddM Offline
            mfalkviddM Offline
            mfalkvidd
            Mod
            wrote on last edited by
            #938

            In case anyone hasn't seen the logger before, it is available at https://www.openhardware.io/view/532/The-Logger-Machine-Short-and-long-term-serial-logging

            1 Reply Last reply
            2
            • sundberg84S Offline
              sundberg84S Offline
              sundberg84
              Hardware Contributor
              wrote on last edited by sundberg84
              #939

              Another picture from today:
              cd572dd2-1092-478e-bb59-6200ef28ad7a-image.png

              Just started working with coincells - CR2032 to be exact. Anyone knows why the battery % varies with the given temperature? Are those coincells very temp. dependent or I have made a misstake somewhere... ???

              Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
              MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
              MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
              RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

              Nca78N YveauxY 2 Replies Last reply
              0
              • sundberg84S sundberg84

                Another picture from today:
                cd572dd2-1092-478e-bb59-6200ef28ad7a-image.png

                Just started working with coincells - CR2032 to be exact. Anyone knows why the battery % varies with the given temperature? Are those coincells very temp. dependent or I have made a misstake somewhere... ???

                Nca78N Offline
                Nca78N Offline
                Nca78
                Hardware Contributor
                wrote on last edited by
                #940

                @sundberg84 said in What did you build today (Pictures) ?:

                Anyone knows why the battery % varies with the given temperature

                They don't like it when it's too cold. Check page 4 :
                https://data.energizer.com/pdfs/lithiumcoin_appman.pdf

                1 Reply Last reply
                0
                • sundberg84S sundberg84

                  Another picture from today:
                  cd572dd2-1092-478e-bb59-6200ef28ad7a-image.png

                  Just started working with coincells - CR2032 to be exact. Anyone knows why the battery % varies with the given temperature? Are those coincells very temp. dependent or I have made a misstake somewhere... ???

                  YveauxY Offline
                  YveauxY Offline
                  Yveaux
                  Mod
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #941

                  @sundberg84 looks like you can ditch the temperarure sensor and just use the battery voltage to measure the temperature :muscle:

                  http://yveaux.blogspot.nl

                  sundberg84S 1 Reply Last reply
                  3
                  • C Offline
                    C Offline
                    cloolalang
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #942

                    20200422_132110_resized.jpg

                    433 MHz ESP 32 MQTT Gateway with proper antenna

                    1 Reply Last reply
                    3
                    • YveauxY Yveaux

                      @sundberg84 looks like you can ditch the temperarure sensor and just use the battery voltage to measure the temperature :muscle:

                      sundberg84S Offline
                      sundberg84S Offline
                      sundberg84
                      Hardware Contributor
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #943

                      @Nca78 - Well, its been around 14-17dgr C today, so almost room temp. Strange
                      @Yveaux - hahaha, best answer! Saving uA!

                      Controller: Proxmox VM - Home Assistant
                      MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - W5100 Ethernet, Gw Shield Nrf24l01+ 2,4Ghz
                      MySensors GW: Arduino Uno - Gw Shield RFM69, 433mhz
                      RFLink GW - Arduino Mega + RFLink Shield, 433mhz

                      1 Reply Last reply
                      0
                      • NeverDieN NeverDie

                        Yesterday received the PCB. Today assembled for testing this battery-powered nRF52-based passive infrared motion detector:
                        0_1511459187973_PIR_02.jpg

                        I Offline
                        I Offline
                        idanronen
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #944

                        @NeverDie sorry if it's a bit off topic, but I see that 10 pin ARM box connector you use in several of your designs, and I was wondering if it offers anything extra in addition to the regular 6 pin programming pins. I'm asking specifically because I want to try some of your nrf52832 designs, but would like to avoid spending extra money on special connectors and cables. Thanks!

                        NeverDieN 1 Reply Last reply
                        0
                        • I idanronen

                          @NeverDie sorry if it's a bit off topic, but I see that 10 pin ARM box connector you use in several of your designs, and I was wondering if it offers anything extra in addition to the regular 6 pin programming pins. I'm asking specifically because I want to try some of your nrf52832 designs, but would like to avoid spending extra money on special connectors and cables. Thanks!

                          NeverDieN Offline
                          NeverDieN Offline
                          NeverDie
                          Hero Member
                          wrote on last edited by NeverDie
                          #945

                          @idanronen No, nothing extra. It just conveniently and transparently interfaces to the ribbon adapter cable used by the Nordic nrf52 dev kits for programming external nRF52 MCU's. If you want to roll-your-own, you can do away with most of the pins. I myself migrated to a smaller connector in later designs.

                          I 1 Reply Last reply
                          1
                          • NeverDieN NeverDie

                            @idanronen No, nothing extra. It just conveniently and transparently interfaces to the ribbon adapter cable used by the Nordic nrf52 dev kits for programming external nRF52 MCU's. If you want to roll-your-own, you can do away with most of the pins. I myself migrated to a smaller connector in later designs.

                            I Offline
                            I Offline
                            idanronen
                            wrote on last edited by idanronen
                            #946

                            @NeverDie thanks for clarifying!
                            So for example in the mini breakout board (https://www.openhardware.io/view/471/Ebyte-nRF52832-Small-Breakout-Board) I could just align the 6 pads and use a standard 6 pin pogo programmer right?

                            NeverDieN 1 Reply Last reply
                            0
                            • I idanronen

                              @NeverDie thanks for clarifying!
                              So for example in the mini breakout board (https://www.openhardware.io/view/471/Ebyte-nRF52832-Small-Breakout-Board) I could just align the 6 pads and use a standard 6 pin pogo programmer right?

                              NeverDieN Offline
                              NeverDieN Offline
                              NeverDie
                              Hero Member
                              wrote on last edited by NeverDie
                              #947

                              @idanronen Yup. If you have more questions, you should probably ask them on a different thread than this one, as it's off topic here.

                              1 Reply Last reply
                              2
                              • monteM Offline
                                monteM Offline
                                monte
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #948

                                Offtopic in terms of mysensors platform, but somehow tangent to a home automation. I've made a batch of concrete switches/push buttons which are in this case simple buttons with led backlight and all the logic is located centrally in distribution box, based on KNX ABB module. But I am planning on making smarter and more complex version which could use Mysensors as its transport.
                                _MG_6056.jpg
                                _MG_6063.jpg
                                and a photo of insides of one of the prototypes at first stages of development
                                11.jpg

                                MatiasVM NeverDieN 2 Replies Last reply
                                5
                                • monteM monte

                                  Offtopic in terms of mysensors platform, but somehow tangent to a home automation. I've made a batch of concrete switches/push buttons which are in this case simple buttons with led backlight and all the logic is located centrally in distribution box, based on KNX ABB module. But I am planning on making smarter and more complex version which could use Mysensors as its transport.
                                  _MG_6056.jpg
                                  _MG_6063.jpg
                                  and a photo of insides of one of the prototypes at first stages of development
                                  11.jpg

                                  MatiasVM Offline
                                  MatiasVM Offline
                                  MatiasV
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #949

                                  @monte Nice work! I love the looks of the concrete switches, do you have some links or useful information on how you did it.
                                  I have a project of a doorbell that could use such a switch.

                                  Thanks!


                                  HomeAssistant
                                  MyController.org
                                  MQTT GW WIFI
                                  FOTA/MYSBootloader

                                  1 Reply Last reply
                                  0
                                  • monteM monte

                                    Offtopic in terms of mysensors platform, but somehow tangent to a home automation. I've made a batch of concrete switches/push buttons which are in this case simple buttons with led backlight and all the logic is located centrally in distribution box, based on KNX ABB module. But I am planning on making smarter and more complex version which could use Mysensors as its transport.
                                    _MG_6056.jpg
                                    _MG_6063.jpg
                                    and a photo of insides of one of the prototypes at first stages of development
                                    11.jpg

                                    NeverDieN Offline
                                    NeverDieN Offline
                                    NeverDie
                                    Hero Member
                                    wrote on last edited by NeverDie
                                    #950

                                    @monte It's a real pleasure to see such professional looking design!

                                    I'm curious though: the button in your teardown looks clear:
                                    alt text
                                    so how does it turn black and give the solar eclipse effect? I mean, I can see the 4 LED's that comprise the "sun," but how does the button (the "moon" in this analogy) go from clear to black?

                                    monteM 1 Reply Last reply
                                    1
                                    • NeverDieN NeverDie

                                      @monte It's a real pleasure to see such professional looking design!

                                      I'm curious though: the button in your teardown looks clear:
                                      alt text
                                      so how does it turn black and give the solar eclipse effect? I mean, I can see the 4 LED's that comprise the "sun," but how does the button (the "moon" in this analogy) go from clear to black?

                                      monteM Offline
                                      monteM Offline
                                      monte
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #951

                                      @NeverDie tanks for describing it as "professional":)
                                      The clear button on the last photo was one of prototypes as I've mentioned, frankly process of refining the button part to make it work as it should was the longest part of the development. Now it is made in two stages: at first the transparent acrylic part is cut on laser machine, then it placed into a mold with curing mix of resin and concrete, which makes it's black top layer that blocks the light from below. 3mm acrylic base and 2mm resin top layer.
                                      But I have to say that next batches will be made the other way, which is already in my mind:)

                                      @MatiasV thanks! Well, I coluld describe the whole process of making, but it requires a lot of work like making propper mold, the process of trial and error while trying to achieve consistant pour and at last the complex process of making a button that would work without sticking.
                                      Frankly I don't think it's worth time and effort if you plan tho do only one switch for yourself. But I can give you hints about concrete mixture and other stuff, if you're just interested in it's concrete part.

                                      NeverDieN 1 Reply Last reply
                                      1
                                      • monteM monte

                                        @NeverDie tanks for describing it as "professional":)
                                        The clear button on the last photo was one of prototypes as I've mentioned, frankly process of refining the button part to make it work as it should was the longest part of the development. Now it is made in two stages: at first the transparent acrylic part is cut on laser machine, then it placed into a mold with curing mix of resin and concrete, which makes it's black top layer that blocks the light from below. 3mm acrylic base and 2mm resin top layer.
                                        But I have to say that next batches will be made the other way, which is already in my mind:)

                                        @MatiasV thanks! Well, I coluld describe the whole process of making, but it requires a lot of work like making propper mold, the process of trial and error while trying to achieve consistant pour and at last the complex process of making a button that would work without sticking.
                                        Frankly I don't think it's worth time and effort if you plan tho do only one switch for yourself. But I can give you hints about concrete mixture and other stuff, if you're just interested in it's concrete part.

                                        NeverDieN Offline
                                        NeverDieN Offline
                                        NeverDie
                                        Hero Member
                                        wrote on last edited by NeverDie
                                        #952

                                        @monte Now that you've mastered the medium you can cast your own tile to texture a wall:
                                        alt text

                                        I met a local architect who did such a thing for her own home. She only had to create a handful of different molds, and then random placement gave the illusion of more than that. Maybe they could be secret panels for hiding all your home automation control equipment behind. High WAF that would be. :grin:

                                        1 Reply Last reply
                                        2
                                        • tbowmoT Offline
                                          tbowmoT Offline
                                          tbowmo
                                          Admin
                                          wrote on last edited by tbowmo
                                          #953

                                          Just made a fun (and useful) sensor / device, using a arduino pro-micro (atmega32u4), and VL53L01 TOF distance sensor.

                                          It's an auto lock device for my pc, I have mounted the VL53L01 to the bottom of my center monitor, and then have it measure the distance to my body, whenever it exceeds 1m (or is out of range), I increase a counter. When the counter reaches 20 (seconds) I send keypress GUI+L, to lock the screen (works equally well on ubuntu and windows).

                                          When I return to the desk again, it is detected by the arduino (distance is now under 1m again). And it then sends CTRL+ALT+DEL to start login procedure.

                                          The arduino sketch is available on https://gist.github.com/tbowmo/7e9934796d47566dc09e7b3bc5b2f208

                                          next project should probably be to find a better enclosure, and build one for when I return to the office in a month or two, when the corona lockdown is lifted more

                                          f28a180c-322f-4360-ae28-1a4efc93ecad-billede.png

                                          8cdc94f7-be29-4706-986e-9583c7c5cd25-billede.png

                                          Danielo RodríguezD 1 Reply Last reply
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