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CNC PCB milling

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  • andrewA andrew

    @neverdie the er-11 should be permanent. this spindle is not powerful enough to handle bigger tools and to mill harder materials.

    you can start with grbl 0.9j, but it is worth to upgrade to 1.1f.
    to the fw upgrade you can use a simple arduino as ISP programmer as well if you do not find your dragon.

    with chilipeppr (in case of grbl 0.9j go for http://chilipeppr.com/grbl , for 1.1.f go for http://chilipeppr.com/jpadie) you can quickly run its default logo engraving path for testing / demo purposes.

    NeverDieN Offline
    NeverDieN Offline
    NeverDie
    Hero Member
    wrote on last edited by NeverDie
    #174

    @andrew said in CNC PCB milling:

    with chilipeppr (in case of grbl 0.9j go for http://chilipeppr.com/grbl , for 1.1.f go for http://chilipeppr.com/jpadie) you can quickly run its default logo engraving path for testing / demo purposes.

    Thanks! That provided exactly what I was looking for. I ran the demo with no etching bit installed, and at first both X and Y seemed to be working, but the adapter coupling eventually loosened on both of them to the point where there was no longer X and Y movement. I've re-tightened tem, and it's working again. I hope it lasts.

    Not sure where I should go next from here though.

    andrewA 1 Reply Last reply
    0
    • NeverDieN NeverDie

      @andrew said in CNC PCB milling:

      with chilipeppr (in case of grbl 0.9j go for http://chilipeppr.com/grbl , for 1.1.f go for http://chilipeppr.com/jpadie) you can quickly run its default logo engraving path for testing / demo purposes.

      Thanks! That provided exactly what I was looking for. I ran the demo with no etching bit installed, and at first both X and Y seemed to be working, but the adapter coupling eventually loosened on both of them to the point where there was no longer X and Y movement. I've re-tightened tem, and it's working again. I hope it lasts.

      Not sure where I should go next from here though.

      andrewA Offline
      andrewA Offline
      andrew
      wrote on last edited by andrew
      #175

      @neverdie said in CNC PCB milling:

      @andrew said in CNC PCB milling:

      with chilipeppr (in case of grbl 0.9j go for http://chilipeppr.com/grbl , for 1.1.f go for http://chilipeppr.com/jpadie) you can quickly run its default logo engraving path for testing / demo purposes.

      Thanks! That provided exactly what I was looking for. I ran the demo with no etching bit installed, and at first both X and Y seemed to be working, but the adapter coupling eventually loosened on both of them to the point where there was no longer X and Y movement. I've re-tightened tem, and it's working again. I hope it lasts.

      Not sure where I should go next from here though.

      so, as this machine does not have limit switches installed, it is your responsibility to move the gantry to a position, from where you would like to start the job and which provides enough space for each direction movement. usually you have to set a relative zero at the given starting point.

      what is next? did you adjusted the stepper drivers? if not, then do it (I shared the link above). this is necessary to be sure, that the steppers will be powered with enough current (so they will be powerful enough for the given speed related movement and to provide enough force) or will not be overdriven.

      then, I would say try to engrave the chilipeppr logo to a soft material first, have some experience with the cnc.
      then, as I mentioned, discover the flatcam tool and try to create an isolation routing job for a test pcb.
      I already mentioned my confirmed settings for the given jobs (edge / hole milling, isolation routing).
      you should sacrifice some boards for your experience :)

      also, try to find your ideal g code sender tool by trying multiple ones.

      1 Reply Last reply
      2
      • NeverDieN Offline
        NeverDieN Offline
        NeverDie
        Hero Member
        wrote on last edited by NeverDie
        #176

        I don't see any plugs on the woodpecker board that are designated for connecting to a touch plate. So, I guess it's configured using the woodpecker header pins? How is that best set up?

        By the way, after re-tightening the set-screws on the adapters used to connect the step-motors to the screw rods, they seem to be holding now and not slipping loose. I take it back, one of them just came loose again. :(

        NeverDieN andrewA 2 Replies Last reply
        0
        • NeverDieN NeverDie

          I don't see any plugs on the woodpecker board that are designated for connecting to a touch plate. So, I guess it's configured using the woodpecker header pins? How is that best set up?

          By the way, after re-tightening the set-screws on the adapters used to connect the step-motors to the screw rods, they seem to be holding now and not slipping loose. I take it back, one of them just came loose again. :(

          NeverDieN Offline
          NeverDieN Offline
          NeverDie
          Hero Member
          wrote on last edited by NeverDie
          #177

          @neverdie said in CNC PCB milling:

          one of them just came loose again

          And now the other one did too. Is anyone using a threadlocker on the set screws to keep this from happening?

          I think I'll put on some locktite and let it dry overnight and then see if it still happens tomorrow. I'll start with just the threaded rods.

          Anyhow, the good news is that the heat sinks plainly did not short out the GRBL controller boards. I guess the adhesive must act as an electrical insulator.

          sundberg84S 1 Reply Last reply
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          • NeverDieN Offline
            NeverDieN Offline
            NeverDie
            Hero Member
            wrote on last edited by NeverDie
            #178

            Thinking about it now, an alternative might be to grind one side of the threaded rod flat in the region where it fits into the adapter. That would match the concept of the motor rotor, where that has already been done.

            Ideally I would notch it in just the region where the set screw makes contact. I suppose I could do that with a Dremel.

            Investigating now, I see that the adapter came loose on the motor rotor also. So, I think locktite will be a must.

            http://www.loctiteproducts.com/tds/T_LKR_BLUE_tds.pdf

            Looking at the datasheet, it takes 24 hours to cure.

            1 Reply Last reply
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            • NeverDieN Offline
              NeverDieN Offline
              NeverDie
              Hero Member
              wrote on last edited by
              #179

              Well, humbug! I'm all out. Maybe tomorrow I'll buy the red threadlocker, which is even stronger.

              dbemowskD 1 Reply Last reply
              0
              • NeverDieN Offline
                NeverDieN Offline
                NeverDie
                Hero Member
                wrote on last edited by
                #180

                @rmtucker Which g-code sender is it that you like best?

                rmtuckerR 1 Reply Last reply
                0
                • NeverDieN NeverDie

                  Well, humbug! I'm all out. Maybe tomorrow I'll buy the red threadlocker, which is even stronger.

                  dbemowskD Offline
                  dbemowskD Offline
                  dbemowsk
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #181

                  @neverdie, or anyone else that can answer this with some logic, just because the topic came up. Why does Loctite red come in a blue container and loctite blue come in a red container?
                  0_1513751591321_cf4dc6b4-34f3-453c-a624-05994fbca118-image.png

                  Vera Plus running UI7 with MySensors, Sonoffs and 1-Wire devices
                  Visit my website for more Bits, Bytes and Ramblings from me: http://dan.bemowski.info/

                  YveauxY 1 Reply Last reply
                  0
                  • dbemowskD dbemowsk

                    @neverdie, or anyone else that can answer this with some logic, just because the topic came up. Why does Loctite red come in a blue container and loctite blue come in a red container?
                    0_1513751591321_cf4dc6b4-34f3-453c-a624-05994fbca118-image.png

                    YveauxY Offline
                    YveauxY Offline
                    Yveaux
                    Mod
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #182

                    @dbemowsk said in CNC PCB milling:

                    Why does Loctite red come in a blue container and loctite blue come in a red container?

                    Made in China?

                    http://yveaux.blogspot.nl

                    dbemowskD 1 Reply Last reply
                    0
                    • NeverDieN Offline
                      NeverDieN Offline
                      NeverDie
                      Hero Member
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #183

                      Probably historical reasons.

                      1 Reply Last reply
                      0
                      • YveauxY Yveaux

                        @dbemowsk said in CNC PCB milling:

                        Why does Loctite red come in a blue container and loctite blue come in a red container?

                        Made in China?

                        dbemowskD Offline
                        dbemowskD Offline
                        dbemowsk
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #184

                        @yveaux LOL

                        Vera Plus running UI7 with MySensors, Sonoffs and 1-Wire devices
                        Visit my website for more Bits, Bytes and Ramblings from me: http://dan.bemowski.info/

                        1 Reply Last reply
                        0
                        • NeverDieN Offline
                          NeverDieN Offline
                          NeverDie
                          Hero Member
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #185

                          Probably a committee decision. Half liked red, and the other half liked blue. They were deadlocked, and this was their compromise decision. :laughing:

                          andrewA 1 Reply Last reply
                          0
                          • NeverDieN NeverDie

                            I don't see any plugs on the woodpecker board that are designated for connecting to a touch plate. So, I guess it's configured using the woodpecker header pins? How is that best set up?

                            By the way, after re-tightening the set-screws on the adapters used to connect the step-motors to the screw rods, they seem to be holding now and not slipping loose. I take it back, one of them just came loose again. :(

                            andrewA Offline
                            andrewA Offline
                            andrew
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #186

                            @neverdie for the touch sensing you should use A5 connector from the headers, connecting it to the actual tool (bit), then a gnd (header's bottom row) connecting to the pcb's surface.

                            for the tool connection I use crocodile clamps.

                            screws: you did not fasten them enough. at the beginning I also missed some endpoints, but since I put the cnc together, I had no issue with any of my screws.

                            andrewA NeverDieN 2 Replies Last reply
                            1
                            • andrewA andrew

                              @neverdie for the touch sensing you should use A5 connector from the headers, connecting it to the actual tool (bit), then a gnd (header's bottom row) connecting to the pcb's surface.

                              for the tool connection I use crocodile clamps.

                              screws: you did not fasten them enough. at the beginning I also missed some endpoints, but since I put the cnc together, I had no issue with any of my screws.

                              andrewA Offline
                              andrewA Offline
                              andrew
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #187

                              @andrew for first go for a single touch probing instead of a whole autoleveling session.
                              just for testing purposes, start the touch probing from a higher position and touch the gnd wire directly to the spindle's tool to see whether it stops or not. if not, you should stop it manually from the gui, otherwise it could break the tool.
                              if everything works well (so you proved that you connections to the pins and the belonging settings are ok), then you can run the simple touch probes or the autoleveling as well.

                              1 Reply Last reply
                              1
                              • NeverDieN NeverDie

                                @neverdie said in CNC PCB milling:

                                one of them just came loose again

                                And now the other one did too. Is anyone using a threadlocker on the set screws to keep this from happening?

                                I think I'll put on some locktite and let it dry overnight and then see if it still happens tomorrow. I'll start with just the threaded rods.

                                Anyhow, the good news is that the heat sinks plainly did not short out the GRBL controller boards. I guess the adhesive must act as an electrical insulator.

                                sundberg84S Offline
                                sundberg84S Offline
                                sundberg84
                                Hardware Contributor
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #188

                                @neverdie said in CNC PCB milling:

                                Is anyone using a threadlocker on the set screws to keep this from happening?

                                For one that will probably buy the same CNC could you document how you solve this with a picture?

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                                NeverDieN 1 Reply Last reply
                                1
                                • NeverDieN NeverDie

                                  @rmtucker Which g-code sender is it that you like best?

                                  rmtuckerR Offline
                                  rmtuckerR Offline
                                  rmtucker
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #189

                                  @neverdie said in CNC PCB milling:

                                  @rmtucker Which g-code sender is it that you like best?

                                  I am not using a g-code sender,i am using mach3.
                                  But i have just started playing with grbl and bCNC seems to do most things.

                                  1 Reply Last reply
                                  1
                                  • NeverDieN NeverDie

                                    Probably a committee decision. Half liked red, and the other half liked blue. They were deadlocked, and this was their compromise decision. :laughing:

                                    andrewA Offline
                                    andrewA Offline
                                    andrew
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #190

                                    @neverdie one more think I forgot to mention: after I assembled the cnc, I used a little wd40 across each axis and moved each from one end to another. it helped for smooth and "barrier-free" movements.

                                    1 Reply Last reply
                                    1
                                    • andrewA andrew

                                      @neverdie for the touch sensing you should use A5 connector from the headers, connecting it to the actual tool (bit), then a gnd (header's bottom row) connecting to the pcb's surface.

                                      for the tool connection I use crocodile clamps.

                                      screws: you did not fasten them enough. at the beginning I also missed some endpoints, but since I put the cnc together, I had no issue with any of my screws.

                                      NeverDieN Offline
                                      NeverDieN Offline
                                      NeverDie
                                      Hero Member
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #191

                                      @andrew said in CNC PCB milling:

                                      you should use A5 connector

                                      Does using A5 somehow automagically just work, or does it require additional software configuration?

                                      andrewA 1 Reply Last reply
                                      0
                                      • sundberg84S sundberg84

                                        @neverdie said in CNC PCB milling:

                                        Is anyone using a threadlocker on the set screws to keep this from happening?

                                        For one that will probably buy the same CNC could you document how you solve this with a picture?

                                        NeverDieN Offline
                                        NeverDieN Offline
                                        NeverDie
                                        Hero Member
                                        wrote on last edited by NeverDie
                                        #192

                                        @sundberg84 said in CNC PCB milling:

                                        @neverdie said in CNC PCB milling:

                                        Is anyone using a threadlocker on the set screws to keep this from happening?

                                        For one that will probably buy the same CNC could you document how you solve this with a picture?

                                        OK, here is what I'm doing in pictures. I'm applying blue 242 Loctite:
                                        0_1513780511391_loctite.jpg
                                        to the threads of the 4 set screws on the coupler:
                                        0_1513780537893_coupler.jpg
                                        That should keep them from loosening up after they are screwed into position. Note, you have at most 10 minutes of working time before it sets.

                                        1 Reply Last reply
                                        0
                                        • NeverDieN Offline
                                          NeverDieN Offline
                                          NeverDie
                                          Hero Member
                                          wrote on last edited by NeverDie
                                          #193

                                          I applied it to the motor set screws first and let it set:
                                          0_1513782061856_magnet.jpg
                                          Note: I used rare earth magnets to help secure the set screw to the allen wrench. That insures that the set screw doesn't drop off and disappear somewhere on the floor. Works great.

                                          The couplers are made from anodized aluminum, so I'm not sure how well the loctite will work on them. However, I think it will still work, as the set screws themselves are steel.

                                          zboblamontZ 1 Reply Last reply
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