Anyone tried the Creality CR-10 3D printer?
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I'm in the middle of putting the Prusa IS3 MK3 together, and it is a lot of assembly. If it's true that the CR-10 can be put together in half an hour, then that's really quite impressive.
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I'm in the middle of putting the Prusa IS3 MK3 together, and it is a lot of assembly. If it's true that the CR-10 can be put together in half an hour, then that's really quite impressive.
@neverdie If it is anything like my Anet A8, mine took quite a few hours to put together. It looks like the MK3 has an all or at least mostly metal frame which is nice. The frame on min is laser cut acrylic and one of the big things with that is that the acrylic comes with a protective paper coating which needed to be peeled off prior to assembly. That part took over an hour in itself and was a pain.
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I'm in the middle of putting the Prusa IS3 MK3 together, and it is a lot of assembly. If it's true that the CR-10 can be put together in half an hour, then that's really quite impressive.
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Attached is a photo of the benchy that was printed in PLA from a file that came
on the Prusa I3 MK3 SD Card. Not perfect, but I guess about par for a hobbyist 3D printer. -
Nice, a little stringing that you can solve with minor tweaks. What happened to the chimney?
@gohan said in Anyone tried the Creality CR-10 3D printer?:
What happened to the chimney?
Heck if I know. This is only the second object I've ever printed. However, if I had to guess, I'd guess that it's an artifact of the way it was sliced.
Presently I'm printing the Andreas Spiess power meter case: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2789890/#files
Just for the box itself, not even including the lid, the estimated print time is over 5 hours! So maybe when the megavolcano hot end comes out, I'll look into getting one. -
@gohan Sound like it was a gcode file on the SD card, so my guess is that he didn't slice it and may not know.
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A note though if you are looking at choosing a slicer. For most of the time that I owned my 3D printer I was using Cura as my slicer. I have recently done some things using Slic3r and I find that it has a lot more options and does an overall better job at slicing. I also recommend a rapberry pi running octoprint.
Vera Plus running UI7 with MySensors, Sonoffs and 1-Wire devices
Visit my website for more Bits, Bytes and Ramblings from me: http://dan.bemowski.info/ -
A note though if you are looking at choosing a slicer. For most of the time that I owned my 3D printer I was using Cura as my slicer. I have recently done some things using Slic3r and I find that it has a lot more options and does an overall better job at slicing. I also recommend a rapberry pi running octoprint.
@dbemowsk Presently using https://prusacontrol.org/ , which is a simplified version aimed at fresh noobs like me. I used it to generate the gcode for the Andreas Spiess power meter case (referenced above).,
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Are any of the available printer filaments odor free? The free roll of Prusa PLA that came with my kit doesn't smell very good when printing with it.
I just now ordered: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MB3CV6K/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
which claims to be "odor free." Well, here's hoping it is. ;) -
Are any of the available printer filaments odor free? The free roll of Prusa PLA that came with my kit doesn't smell very good when printing with it.
I just now ordered: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MB3CV6K/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
which claims to be "odor free." Well, here's hoping it is. ;)@neverdie said in Anyone tried the Creality CR-10 3D printer?:
Are any of the available printer filaments odor free?
I myself have not tried any that are completely odor free. I haven't had too much trouble with the PLA that I have used, and I have tried a number of different brands. ABS smells a lot worse than PLA.
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@gohan Sound like it was a gcode file on the SD card, so my guess is that he didn't slice it and may not know.
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@dbemowsk I was referring to the box he was printing, maybe a thicker layer would cut the print time since he doesn't need to have fine details on the box
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PETG and PLA are easier to print. PLA is easier, but PETG is not hard to use, just need a few changes on settings for speed etc.
I use simplify3d too :)Note:
- when you buy new filament rolls, it's good to check the thickness with caliper and calibrate your slicer for that. It can improve results
- better use different nozzles. one for PLA, and one for PETG. they don't melt at same temperature.
So if you melt PETG and then would like to use PLA, then you could get clogging because of PETG residue not melting at PLA temperature. - when sourcing parts on aliexpress for heatbreak etc (spare parts etc), it's good to remachine them. it can be a source of clogging too. They are not same quality as if you ordered them from e3d for example..
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PLA smells like hot popcorn/cooking oil, it's corn based afterall
ABS smells bad and it's a little toxic
PETG is almost odourless, very resistent, easy to print, doesn't warp or shrink when coolingBest slicer: Simplify3D
@executivul Doesn't Simplify3D cost $$$ though? Slic3r is free.
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@executivul Doesn't Simplify3D cost $$$ though? Slic3r is free.
@dbemowsk said in Anyone tried the Creality CR-10 3D printer?:
@executivul Doesn't Simplify3D cost $$$ though? Slic3r is free.
Unfortunately for them it does, but we know a guy...
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@dbemowsk said in Anyone tried the Creality CR-10 3D printer?:
@executivul Doesn't Simplify3D cost $$$ though? Slic3r is free.
Unfortunately for them it does, but we know a guy...
@executivul said in Anyone tried the Creality CR-10 3D printer?:
Unfortunately for them it does, but we know a guy...
Never a bad thing...
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Worth mentioning: in fooling around with the Prusa slicer, I noticed that the estimated print times for the I3 MK3 are almost half of what they are for the I3 MK2. I presume that can be attributed to the Trinamic driver chips and also, possibly, Prusa's custom firmware's ability to effectively exploit them. Not sure as to whether or not Marlin can yet do the same.
