Anyone tried the Creality CR-10 3D printer?

[scalz]

PETG and PLA are easier to print. PLA is easier, but PETG is not hard to use, just need a few changes on settings for speed etc.
I use simplify3d too :)

Note:

• when you buy new filament rolls, it's good to check the thickness with caliper and calibrate your slicer for that. It can improve results
• better use different nozzles. one for PLA, and one for PETG. they don't melt at same temperature.
  So if you melt PETG and then would like to use PLA, then you could get clogging because of PETG residue not melting at PLA temperature.
• when sourcing parts on aliexpress for heatbreak etc (spare parts etc), it's good to remachine them. it can be a source of clogging too. They are not same quality as if you ordered them from e3d for example..

[dbemowsk]

@executivul Doesn't Simplify3D cost $$$ though? Slic3r is free.

[executivul]

@dbemowsk said in Anyone tried the Creality CR-10 3D printer?:

@executivul Doesn't Simplify3D cost $$$ though? Slic3r is free.

Unfortunately for them it does, but we know a guy...

[dbemowsk]

@executivul said in Anyone tried the Creality CR-10 3D printer?:

Unfortunately for them it does, but we know a guy...

Never a bad thing...

[NeverDie]

Worth mentioning: in fooling around with the Prusa slicer, I noticed that the estimated print times for the I3 MK3 are almost half of what they are for the I3 MK2. I presume that can be attributed to the Trinamic driver chips and also, possibly, Prusa's custom firmware's ability to effectively exploit them. Not sure as to whether or not Marlin can yet do the same.

[NeverDie]

@neverdie said in Anyone tried the Creality CR-10 3D printer?:

Are any of the available printer filaments odor free? The free roll of Prusa PLA that came with my kit doesn't smell very good when printing with it.

I just now ordered: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MB3CV6K/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
which claims to be "odor free." Well, here's hoping it is. ;)

I tried it, and indeed it seems to have no odor. Hopefully (?) it's also not giving off any emissions that I can't smell either.

[NeverDie]

I upgraded my Prusa I3 MK3 to use a Volcano with a 0.8mm nozzle. Now I can print a Benchie in 16 minutes!
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:763622
For enclosures, the relative speed improvement should be even more noticeable.

[dbemowsk]

@neverdie Are you using an E3D J-Head with your Volcano hot end? I am in the process of working on an E3D clone J-Head setup with a Bowden extruder, but I went with the standard heat block and not the Volcano.

[NeverDie]

@dbemowsk All I did was swap the E3D V6 hot-end for the volcano hot end.

What is a J-Head?

[NeverDie]

I also printed a Benchie in translucent PLA at 0.1mm layer height using the volcano, and it came out very smooth:

So, overall, it has pretty good dynamic range.

[dbemowsk]

@neverdie If you have an E3D V6, then you are running a J-Head.
Not sure exactly why they call it a J-Head as it looks nothing like a J shape...

I assume you just swapped out the heat block? The Volcanos are like a standard heat block only stood on end.

https://www.amazon.com/J-head-Hotend-Filament-Extruder-Printer/dp/B010MSTVZO

[dbemowsk]

@neverdie That has got to be one of the smoothest benchies I've seen.

[NeverDie]

@dbemowsk said in Anyone tried the Creality CR-10 3D printer?:

I assume you just swapped out the heat block?

Yes, that and using the longer nozzle that matches it.

[gohan]

@dbemowsk it has to be with a 0.1mm layer height 😁

[NeverDie]

Thought I'd share a couple cool things I've learned recently.

One is that meshmixer offers treelike supports, which is pretty cool, and it's free:

You can import your model and just add the supports without using the rest of meshmixer, if that's all you want. That's how I plan to use it.

The other is that if you want to print faster, but with good print quality, you should definitely look into linear advance.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c5jjwBqARpo&t=255s

Anyone else learned anything cool lately?