@pepson said in Sensebender Gateway:

@magpern
But get this board to Arduino IDE?

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[SOLVED]
After a one-on-one with @tekka we found that the problem was a very simple one.
The default channel 76 was noisy. I change channel to 90 and the Gateway and device could talk two-way communication

I did a WIFI scan an see that wifi 2.4g channel 11 is used by someone close to me (I am channel 2)
Wifi Channel 11 is almost in the mid of channel 76 (nRF24)

@pepson said in [SOLVED] Sensbender Gateway gives a lot of "hu":

Please help me what i do wrong...and how resolved this problem.

It is the exact same problem as I had. Do what @tekka said. Either put in the code he suggested, or git clone the development branch. The development branch works fine, the "hu" will go away

And if git clone is to difficult. Download the dev branch github as zip, unzip it and replace the entire "MySensors" folder on your computer. Exactly where it is, I don't know. It's in the library folder where Arduino is installed

@berkseo Seriously!!!!!!!!!!!!! It cannot be true!!! I have just ordered PCBs and all needed stuff to assemble it, and now the code is gone!!! Please post the code again, or make it available on alternative sites.. please. It is hundreds of dollars to waste otherwise!

@mfalkvidd Thank you for you detailed reply. The question actually arose spontaneously. I said to my wife.. I know what I want as a present, a new better multimeter. Then she saw me write here, and started asking questions about what forum I wrote in (= she will look here to find the answer and buy it for me)

But, as you state.. what do I need it for? Measuring some kind of micro current is one thought. And measuring capacitors.
Will my current one work for me, most likely, it has for many years and 95% of the time it is to look for shorts. Do I need a new one..no.
I looked in your thread about the multimeters and I think the VC99 seams to be a good one. Price of 28 USD is very good too.
I'll look into the uCurrent too, that looks cool!

@tekka Thanks! Development branch worked

Edit: After I posted this the device has worked for 2 days. But still, the capasitors are they correct?

@berkseo I have a wierd problem with the SHT20 sensor. It stops working after a few reads. Then the device hangs and goes into battery draining mode with atleast 8mA constant current. I have localized it to the SHT20, because if I comment out the init and read temp/humidity of the SHT20 the device boots up.
The wierdest is that the SHT20 stops responding for quite some time, even if I power cycle the device, it is still not responding.
Last night I had it running for 1 hour, powered with 3.3V directly. Turned power of, had some sleep, turned power on SHT20 not responding. Turned power of, played with the kids, 3 hours later turned power on, the SHT20 is now responding. Now it's been going for 20 minutes and is still responding. But I bet if I let it run, it will stop.

I am fairly sure the SHT20 is soldered to the board correctly. I used reflow (heatgun) and solder paste was liquid and I could poke the SHT20 and it popped back automatically by surface tension.
I have also tried to replace the SHT20, but the result is the same. the device when hung)

Anything you recognize?

I have not yet successfully been able to debug the device, if i compile with the MY_DEBUG active, the device does not come on and the led shines constantly and I'm not sure how to connect the FTDI, should Vcc on the SWD provide power or not?

I have checked the capasitors C12, C13 and C14 since they have been talked about before and differ from the BOM list and the real board.
C12 is 10uF
C13 is 100uF (100uF is very big, only had a 1206 size, but I got it in place, will get 47uF 0805 for next iteration, waiting for a solder paste dispenser from China)
C14 is 100nF

@mfalkvidd said in What multimeter should i wish for?:

@magpern totally agree. Myplan is to work through this playlist so I learn how to use mine. https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLwOVNTOStjiCmxCFX91MZYP7wL8dfy1tB

Today Iearned to save screen shots and csv files to a usb stick. No snow, but lots of rain today

Nice.. "a snowy day" is more realistic then a "rainy day", but I guess, a snowy day means playing with the kids in the snow.. rain they don't care for.. so I guess "a rainy day" is more realistic after all.

It was indeed a rainy day, so I got 3 of my sonoff up and running with mqtt and domoticz. Next is to try with home assistant. Still waiting for some aliexpress stuff to continue with my MySensors devices, but I guess that will be "some snowy day"

@insectteam I did not understand what you mean about the diods. Could you please clarify or show with pictures?
I have not used the device since it does not feel saft to put in an enclosure if the diods burns hot.
And also, please share your stl files for the enclosure, here or on thingiverse

@tbowmo said in node-red-contrib-mysensors release thread:

That being said, if you only need to convert your serial mysensors gateway into mqtt, I do have a small python script that I use for that particular case, as my nodered instance can't access the serial Ports from my docker swarm setup. So this script is running besides everything else. I can post it tomorrow if interested, as my pc is closed for the night now.

/ Thomas

I'd love to try the script! /Magnus

@tbowmo I feel a little confused on how to use this node-red plugin. Is this something like "a node-red plug-in framework", but you have to invent the wheel yourself kind of solution?

I have just opted for the Home assistant (hass.io) system as the hub for my home automation.
Home assistant, according to documentation, is mysensors enabled, but compared to other add-ons, like zigbee2mqtt, zwave2mqtt, the mysensors implementaton is like a child's tricycle, while the others are sports cars.
The zigbee2mqtt, you just turn on and off the IKEA light buld six times and it is added, whereas the mysensors you have to type configuration files and have limited graphical administration possibilities.

So I thought, what if the mysensors could talk to mqtt and get into home assistant that way (my gateway is serial).

I understand the node-red implementation enables you to decode the messages as you like, but do I really need to invent how it should decode it and send it to mqtt?

Are there any ready to use implementations of the plug.in?

Could it support "auto discovery"? So you just have to turn the device on, and voila, it appears in home assistant (if mqtt auto discovery is turned on)?

@jens-jensen said in [Solved] Device and gateway see each other, but not regestering:

@magpern glad to see you got it fixed, however I don't think wifi channel 11 interferes with channel 76, which is at 2476 MHz.
Maybe there are some other sources of interference on nrf channel 76 in your environment?

I don't know. Wifi channel 12 is in the channel 76 nrf rage though, maybe they bleed?

Except from getting a Mesh network and three pairs of bluetooth headphones there is nothing new.

@mfalkvidd said in What multimeter should i wish for?:

@magpern totally agree. Myplan is to work through this playlist so I learn how to use mine. https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLwOVNTOStjiCmxCFX91MZYP7wL8dfy1tB

Today Iearned to save screen shots and csv files to a usb stick. No snow, but lots of rain today

Nice.. "a snowy day" is more realistic then a "rainy day", but I guess, a snowy day means playing with the kids in the snow.. rain they don't care for.. so I guess "a rainy day" is more realistic after all.

It was indeed a rainy day, so I got 3 of my sonoff up and running with mqtt and domoticz. Next is to try with home assistant. Still waiting for some aliexpress stuff to continue with my MySensors devices, but I guess that will be "some snowy day"

@mfalkvidd

Maybe you want to check how stable signals are. Then you don't need a multimeter, you need an oscilloscope. Example: https://www.conrad.se/p/rigol-ds1054z-digitalt-oscilloskop-50-mhz-1392205

I have one... just don't know how to use it... too many buttons.... but I'll look in to that one snowy day

@mfalkvidd Thank you for you detailed reply. The question actually arose spontaneously. I said to my wife.. I know what I want as a present, a new better multimeter. Then she saw me write here, and started asking questions about what forum I wrote in (= she will look here to find the answer and buy it for me)

But, as you state.. what do I need it for? Measuring some kind of micro current is one thought. And measuring capacitors.
Will my current one work for me, most likely, it has for many years and 95% of the time it is to look for shorts. Do I need a new one..no.
I looked in your thread about the multimeters and I think the VC99 seams to be a good one. Price of 28 USD is very good too.
I'll look into the uCurrent too, that looks cool!

Today i have this cheap multimeter

Birthday is coming up... which much better should i wish for?

@stormy said in MySensors InCan double light switch:

@magpern

No, a have no problems with sketch.
It looks like some problems with radio communication.

It was. I used the default channel and apparently it was too noicy. Changed to another channel and it worked fine!

Diodes are only for protection transistor from reverse voltage spikes. Diodes never should be even warm. Something is wrong. You can test this without diodes.

Somehow, when powered by 5V from the FTDI, the device got hot. The Hi-link maybe did not like to get power from the FTDI? The diodes got super hot, and so did the Hi-link. I removed the diodes and could continue. Today, I tried 230V. It didn't work, the thermo fuse was busted, probably from the overheating earlier.
I shorted the fuse (temporarily) and everything worked fine. Hi-link was still alive and supplied 5 Volts
And this brings me to my question...

What kind of range do you get with this device? And how accurate is it?
I tried 50 centimeters from the gateway and got a fairly decent hit rate on the on/off from domoticz.
I moved the device to about 3-4 meters, and maybe got 50% hit rate. It was almost line of sight.
If I toggle the on/off from Domotics, with 3 seconds apart, I got like 10% hit rate, maybe every 10th click toggled the relay.
Placing it inside a wall sounds like a "no go" if almost line of sight doesn't work 100%.

What is your experience?

@yveaux said in Ikea Molgan Hack:

@magpern the instructions on openhardware.io state that the Molgan must be battery powered while programming:

Well, then I can confirm that you don't have to power the Molgan from batteries just for programming. Burning the bootloader works fine with just power from the ISP port and programming it through FTDI works fine if power comes from the FTDI.

What I found wierd is that the atmega328 had power, the radio had power, it wrote debug messages to the FTDI - when powered through the FTDI, it send radio messages etc, but it just did not receive messages.
Messages where not received until I supplied power to the + / - pads (battery pads).

I did read the instructions on openhardware.io, but I didn't follow then to the t.