I have finally finished the automation of two blinds to tilt open at sunrise and tilt closed at sunset. I have updated an earlier sketch so it now works with the latest mySensors 1.4b1 beta library. Once the power related issues were worked out (See discussion in http://forum.mysensors.org/topic/182/standard-versus-lna-pa-radio-modules) they have been operating flawlessly for the last several weeks using the 1.4b1 library. Kudos to the MySensors team, you guys have done a great job!

I have attached the sketch, if anyone is interested in it. It’s not perfect and can always be improved, but it was a great learning project and might help someone just starting out with mySensors. The sketch is heavily commented with lots of debug printing, so you see how the processes interact. Be sure to comment out this line #define PDEBUG 1 for a final build. I also attached a snapshot of the process I followed while working on the project.

Have Fun

myBlinds40.ino

.zip did not take here are the files

Servo-Light-Temp-Sensors.ino

I am working on my battery powered sensors and would like to verify a couple of things about cutting traces to reduce power consumption.

http://www.mysensors.org/build/battery#general-tips-for-battery-operation

This link shows where to cut traces to remove the power LED and on board regulator. My Arduino is a little different. It is a Deek-Robot 3.3v Pro Mini and the layout is a little different. I am confident that I have the right leads, but just want to double check with you guys, so I don’t trash a pro mini. See the image (sorry for the poor quality, best my phone could do). I enhanced the image by drawing solid blue where the traces are on the board with RED slashes were I believe the cuts should be.

Also using the DC/DC Input 0.8-3V, Output 3.3V. Step Up Power Converter I removed the LED from the board and I still get the 3.3v out, so I am good there.

Just for reference
I tested with the regulator and LED in place as well as the LED on the Step Up. I used the base mySensor temp sketch, with a sleep cycle of 32000ms, since currently the 1.4beta is limited to 32367 (integer) for its sleep duration. I got about 4 days with these parameters. I have since adjusted the library sleep function to long and will be testing again, when I confirm the trace cuts for my pro model.

Thanks

Cases that take into account a NRF2401+ are non existent.

I finally moved my ethernet gateway from breadboard to a case. After looking for months for a case I finally settled on this one.

http://www.crispconcept.com/product-p/ar-uno-e-tr.htm

No glue or screws required it snaps together and can be easily taken apart. I ordered the one that holds the UNU R3, and Wiznet Ethernet Shield. The a NRF2401+ LNA & PA Antenna version also fit nicely into the box, but did have to drill a hole for the antenna.

Those were the correct traces to cut for the Deek-Robot 3.3v Pro Mini.

No power light
No regulator (note: you will only be able to upload your sketches when only using the the FTDI adapter with the pro mini, since any radio and senors will receive no power - attach your battery power for these to receive power and be able to debug the sketch).

Set the sketch up to sleep for 60 seconds and received temperature readings just fine. Bumped it up to 3600 seconds once per hour (as this is the target interval I am after) to see how long the battery will last.

@Bandra said:

Does anybody who has bypassed the onboard regulator on the HC-SR501 be able to post up a photo of where you soldered?

Here is how id modified the sensor.

Does anyone know if the Mini version also has such a place as the SR501?