I made a thing

I used @sunberg84 's LED dimmer and Newbie boards (https://www.openhardware.io/view/552/Dimmable-Led-Strip-board-MysX) (https://www.openhardware.io/view/389/EasyNewbie-PCB-RFM69-HWW-edition-for-MySensors) to make some desk lamps using warm white 5050 LED strips from the ebays.

All up, it probably cost about $12 AUD to make excluding the 12v power adapter. Luckly I had some old ones laying around. Otherwise the power adapter alone would be more expensive than the lamp!

I 3D printed the parts to make the lamp in PLA plastic.

I've been monitoring the temps and the MOFSET seems to make the most heat. If you don't use a heat-sink, it gets to approx 45 deg C with the ambient of approx 20 deg C. With a heat-sink, it's about 30 deg C! I strongly recommend using heat-sinks. Note that the white lamp shade warped during printing, not from use of the lamp!

It's designed to be a convection pipe which does seem to keep the air moving well. I'm happy with the temps and the PLA plastic especially with the heat sinks on the MOFSET and voltage regulator.

The lamp draws about 12W when it's 100% on @ approx 1.1A. I'm using a 2A power supplies to be on the safe side.

If there is any interest, I'll post the designs and BOM on Thingiverse.

BTW, I've found MySensors to be much more reliable and responsive than the Ikea Tradfri lights I have in my house

Air particulate sensor.

BTW, solder fumes seem to be bad for you........

Hi All,

Just knocked up a case for @sundberg84 's Newbie PCB with Dimmer module. Thanks to @sundberg84 for the great PCB's.

This is the first version, and the clearances are rather generous which makes the case bigger than it needs to be. Further revisions will try and get this down to make the overall size smaller.

As you can see in the photos, the print around the aperture is a little scabby, but I think that has more to do with my poor placement of supports rather than the model itself.

The case is a press fit with snap clasps.

Files over on thingiverse here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3135667

Enjoy!

!

I'm sharing my latest project which is a air particulate sensor based on the PMS7003 module.

I designed a custom PCB to break out all the connectors as well as a 3D printed enclosure.

The node uses a 5v pro mini as well as the common 1602 LCD. A LE33 is used to regulate down to 3v3 for the NRF24.

My latest board that hasn't been built up yet also includes an I2C breakout for temp / humidity / barometric pressure.

The PMS7003 module is physically a bit of a pain as the intake / exhaust ports are on the same side as the connector. The case had to be designed with channels to manage the air and out whilst keeping clearances for the wire connectors.

I've mounted mine next to my 3D printer to see what the 3D printed does to the air quality inside the house.

Happy to share the PCB, code and the 3D model if there's any interest.

Hi All,

Thanks Sundberg84 for creating a board where I can knock out sensors in the matter of minutes instead of hours.

That being said, I actually spent many hours on the weekend trying to get my first board to work so I thought that I'd share so it could benefit others.

I was setting up a 3v3 board with 2 x AA batteries with the battery pad jumpered and using the 3v3 booster. I triple checked the board for continuity.

I was suffering from !TSM:FPAR:FAIL messages when firing up the node using the FTDI adaptor. I found that the board didn't work when both the battery and FTDI were supplying power.

Here are my lessons:

• You need to have a battery connected. This is required to power the radio, as it radio isn't powered by the FTDI adapter
• You need to remove power from the FTDI adapter. I couldn't disable power on my FTDI adapter so I had to use jumper wires for CTS, DTR, RXD, TXD, and GND between the adapter and the ProMini.

Thanks again, and I look forward to knocking out some nodes super quick.

Cheers,
Simon.

Howdy,

Title says it all. I'd like to have the ability to build and debug sensors with a test gateway and have a way to present to the production gateway when they've been tested.

I am mostly using SenseBenders in my production setup, with a few Nano's as repeaters.

Any ideas on how to be able to run up a sensor without it presenting to the production gateway?

Why do I want to do this? I've had issues when using HomeAssistant keeping the state of test child sensors that change while I'm still working and debugging the sketch. I'd like to run a test HomeAssistant with the test gateway.

Thanks,
Simon.

Air particulate sensor.

BTW, solder fumes seem to be bad for you........

I'm sharing my latest project which is a air particulate sensor based on the PMS7003 module.

I designed a custom PCB to break out all the connectors as well as a 3D printed enclosure.

The node uses a 5v pro mini as well as the common 1602 LCD. A LE33 is used to regulate down to 3v3 for the NRF24.

My latest board that hasn't been built up yet also includes an I2C breakout for temp / humidity / barometric pressure.

The PMS7003 module is physically a bit of a pain as the intake / exhaust ports are on the same side as the connector. The case had to be designed with channels to manage the air and out whilst keeping clearances for the wire connectors.

I've mounted mine next to my 3D printer to see what the 3D printed does to the air quality inside the house.

Happy to share the PCB, code and the 3D model if there's any interest.

Someone may get some reuse out of this. I've made a 3d printed prototyping rig for the NRF52840 DK board as part of my MySensors adventures....

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3836487

I made a thing

I used @sunberg84 's LED dimmer and Newbie boards (https://www.openhardware.io/view/552/Dimmable-Led-Strip-board-MysX) (https://www.openhardware.io/view/389/EasyNewbie-PCB-RFM69-HWW-edition-for-MySensors) to make some desk lamps using warm white 5050 LED strips from the ebays.

All up, it probably cost about $12 AUD to make excluding the 12v power adapter. Luckly I had some old ones laying around. Otherwise the power adapter alone would be more expensive than the lamp!

I 3D printed the parts to make the lamp in PLA plastic.

I've been monitoring the temps and the MOFSET seems to make the most heat. If you don't use a heat-sink, it gets to approx 45 deg C with the ambient of approx 20 deg C. With a heat-sink, it's about 30 deg C! I strongly recommend using heat-sinks. Note that the white lamp shade warped during printing, not from use of the lamp!

It's designed to be a convection pipe which does seem to keep the air moving well. I'm happy with the temps and the PLA plastic especially with the heat sinks on the MOFSET and voltage regulator.

The lamp draws about 12W when it's 100% on @ approx 1.1A. I'm using a 2A power supplies to be on the safe side.

If there is any interest, I'll post the designs and BOM on Thingiverse.

BTW, I've found MySensors to be much more reliable and responsive than the Ikea Tradfri lights I have in my house

A related thread: https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/6843/re-request-presentation

How can we send a I_PRESENT or I_REBOOT command using the HA / MySensors API? If there's a way, then an automation be be hard-coded to request each node to reboot.

Howdy,

Is it possible to rename MySensor nodes in Home Assistant? I've noticed that I can't use the normal method to rename by clicking on the cog in the Developer States window.

Cheers,
Simon.

Hi All,

Just knocked up a case for @sundberg84 's Newbie PCB with Dimmer module. Thanks to @sundberg84 for the great PCB's.

This is the first version, and the clearances are rather generous which makes the case bigger than it needs to be. Further revisions will try and get this down to make the overall size smaller.

As you can see in the photos, the print around the aperture is a little scabby, but I think that has more to do with my poor placement of supports rather than the model itself.

The case is a press fit with snap clasps.

Files over on thingiverse here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3135667

Enjoy!

!

In your next rev, perhaps you increase the spacing between the voltage regulator and the MOFSET to accommodate heat sinks? The minimum would be 2.54mm.

Howdy,

I'm loving the NodeManager for my temperature, humidity and repeater nodes. I've just built a battery power meter node and noticed some weird behavior. I'm using the latest version 1.7.

The pulse sensor can interrupt < 1 second. That is to say, the pulse frequency can be less than 1 second at certain periods of the day. I find that I can't get the sensor to report because the node interrupts and then sleeps and then interrupts again before the sleep expires and wakes to send the report. So in the debug, all you see is the interrupt processing and never a send.

Just for debug, I've set both the sleep and report interval to 1 second and I've seen this behavior. What I would like to do is to set the sleep and report interval to 5 minutes, but I don't think that it would ever report.

Any thoughts?

Hi All,

Thanks Sundberg84 for creating a board where I can knock out sensors in the matter of minutes instead of hours.

That being said, I actually spent many hours on the weekend trying to get my first board to work so I thought that I'd share so it could benefit others.

I was setting up a 3v3 board with 2 x AA batteries with the battery pad jumpered and using the 3v3 booster. I triple checked the board for continuity.

I was suffering from !TSM:FPAR:FAIL messages when firing up the node using the FTDI adaptor. I found that the board didn't work when both the battery and FTDI were supplying power.

Here are my lessons:

• You need to have a battery connected. This is required to power the radio, as it radio isn't powered by the FTDI adapter
• You need to remove power from the FTDI adapter. I couldn't disable power on my FTDI adapter so I had to use jumper wires for CTS, DTR, RXD, TXD, and GND between the adapter and the ProMini.

Thanks again, and I look forward to knocking out some nodes super quick.

Cheers,
Simon.