Hardware

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  RSSI and TX power of RFM69HW
  • tedstriker  

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  @scalz Thanks for the reply, that sounds great!
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  What is the best low frequency antenna I can get?
  • mk55  

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  @mk55 I have not seen any. https://www.adafruit.com/products/3077 has the radio module soldered on the same board as the mcu, but no sma.
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  Strange issue with RPI and sensors registering... seems to fall asleep (w/ WORKAROUND)
  • loiphin  

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  No one have this problem?? Bueller... Bueller .... Bueller.... anyone?
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  What kind of sensor for my mailbox?
  • Maurice Krijtenberg  

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  http://www.ebay.com/itm/161806126324 I am going to use these magnetic switches on my postbox lid. Haven't got them yet, so cant say if they are any good or not.
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  Do I have to wire all grounds?
  • Chester  

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  @Chester one is enough. They are connected to each other on the pcb. You can verify this by putting a multimeter in continuity mode or resistance mode and measure the resistance between the two ground pads. The resistance should be zero.
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  Pro mini
  • xydix  

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  @micah I have had this happen to a couple of mine too. It only takes a few times before I learned never to apply 12v to the raw pin I have been able to revive all of my pro minis by soldering on a new capacitor here:
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  Reading DIXELL S6.S PTC thermistor
  • janvier123  

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  nrf24L01+ range and some software issues
  • rozpruwacz  

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  great news with the new nrf modules there is no more range problem for the gatewane i use nrf24l01+pa+lna and for the sensor node nrf24l01+. now from every place in my small flat the connection is perfect
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  XN297L an alternative to NRF24L01?
  • Doomic  

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  ok. Thanks. then i will keep it with the nrf24.
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  ESP8266 and TTL-UART GPS
  • Martin Tellblom  

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  @mfalkvidd said: e Thanks v:) the instructions were great, now lets see if the child or the dog gets the first try
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  ESP8266 need six analog input
  • Martin Tellblom  

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  @mfalkvidd Tnaks, I saw that Adafruit had a library and code or this that should be ESP8266 certified ... I'll try. Thanks for quick support
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  tds water with MySensors
  • alexsh1  

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  Anyone? Any clues?
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  Motion Sensor Problem
  • t1m0  

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  @t1m0 I suggest you post it in Troubleshooting. Let me ask you if I understand your question correctly - your PIR is triggered randomly?
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  How can I tell if my arduino mini pro is 3.3V or 5v?
  • joaoabs  

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  @Alexandre-Magno Hi! Look here: https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/ArduinoBoardProMini Check the documentation/schematics section.
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  We are mostly using fake nRF24L01+'s, but worse fakes are emerging.
  • Zeph  

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  Hi, on gateway I'm using a NRF24L01+PA+LNA and everything works fine if I use NRF24L01+ or SI24R1 on sensor side. If I replace NRF24L01+PA+LNA with something different (NRF24L01+ or SI24R1 module) the communication does not work...
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  Good looking rotary encoder with push button
  • LastSamurai  

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  I built a dimmer for my sons bedside lamp -> https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/4808/dimmable-led-actuator/15
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  How do I setup Raspberry Pi 2 with NRF24L01 as MySensor 2.0 Gateway with MyController as controller
  nrf24l01 mycontroller.org gpio raspberry pi 2 rbp2 • • Christian Simonsen  

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  @alexsh1 Hi Alex, I tested the Sanity check on the the Arduino sensor node, and status came back OK. However I could get this to work on the Raspberry Pi, seems like this function is not yet supported. At least I couldn't find any info on it using the "./configuration -h". I don't have a AMS1117 available so I can test that. I connected my Arduino Nano and NRF24L01+ to the Raspberry Pi via USB, that would really well. So I might just use this solution instead as I see little benefit of connecting the NRF24L01 directly to the GPIO pins on the Raspberry Pi. Next step is to start building some battery powered sensors that I can use, and get MyController setup properly.
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  "on top" light switches and cheap IOT hardware
  • LastSamurai  

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  @AWI said: @LastSamurai I can find a lot of these even on main stream sites Thanks a lot! My bad, I did look for KaKu (and overlooked the NL part ).
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  solid sate relay
  • parachutesj  

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  @parachutesj this is the way SSRs work. I do not think you can test them without a load
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  12V supply for Wemos D1 mini & 2812 LEDs
  • frankv  

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  Hi all, Thanks for the replies. Turns out my D1 was faulty, or becoming faulty. When I double-checked on the USB supply, it didn't work there either. Are they particularly static-sensitive? The output of the converter goes to the 5V & GND pins on the D1, and also to the 5V and GND connectors on the LEDs. I use pin D2 of the Wemos to send data to the LEDs, via a 470 ohm resistor. I specifically wanted to add the 12V to 5V converter because I plan to run these lights at the end of long wires (Xmas decorations), and was worried about voltage drop across the wires. Maybe it's a bit of overkill... when I checked, the lights work OK on 3.6V Cheers, Frank
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  Using 32.768khz crystal
  • Toyman  

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  868 rx module
  • compujan66  

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  DHT sketch version 2.0.0 error [solved]
  • bisschopsr  

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  @clio75 Just a warning. Just ignore it and be happy.
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  Best or any way to get battery before regulator
  • Martin Tellblom  

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  @AWI said: e 5 volt is the refer Once again. Big thank you @AWI . As you understand I'm new to this battery thing and it's kind of driving me crazy
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  Front Door Lock With mysensore
  • jemish  

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  I use Abloy EL582 and with that you can either set it to be open as long as 12V is applied, or closed as long as 12V is applied. Simple as that. I control my doors with a KNX switch. If you go with a lock like this and have the door closed when no power is applied be ware that you need a key to open in from inside in case of fire.
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  which modules to use for 434/868 mHz
  • A Former User  

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  @Vasil-Vasilev yes, you need to select which frequency (433 or 868 MHz) when you buy the radio module.
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  Plant moisture sensor - I give up...
  • Martin Tellblom  

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  @mrwomble I have seen it and it's nice. Live in Sweden where the sun turn of at around 18:00 (6pm) so we need batteries Joke aside my are intended to be used for the two plants we have indoors.
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  HLK-PM01 reliability and experience
  • parachutesj  

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  Have you seen the thread on here about fake HLK modules? It could be that you had a batch of the dodgy ones.
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  Yet an other RFM69 installation problem
  • frencho  

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  @hek Thanks hek, it was indeed the problem. Now I connected the gateway to the Jeedom box, and on the node side I get this : Starting sensor (RRNNA-, 2.0.0) TSM:INIT TSM:RADIO:OK TSP:ASSIGNID:OK (ID=165) TSM:FPAR TSP:MSG:SEND 165-165-255-255 s=255,c=3,t=7,pt=0,l=0,sg=0,ft=0,st=bc: TSP:MSG:READ 0-0-165 s=255,c=3,t=8,pt=1,l=1,sg=0:0 TSP:MSG:FPAR RES (ID=0, dist=0) TSP:MSG:PAR OK (ID=0, dist=1) TSM:FPAR:OK TSM:ID TSM:CHKID:OK (ID=165) TSM:UPL TSP:PING:SEND (dest=0) TSP:MSG:SEND 165-165-0-0 s=255,c=3,t=24,pt=1,l=1,sg=0,ft=0,st=ok:1 TSP:MSG:READ 0-0-165 s=255,c=3,t=25,pt=1,l=1,sg=0:1 TSP:MSG:PONG RECV (hops=1) TSP:CHKUPL:OK TSM:UPL:OK TSM:READY TSP:MSG:SEND 165-165-0-0 s=255,c=3,t=15,pt=6,l=2,sg=0,ft=0,st=ok:0100 !TSP:MSG:SEND 165-165-0-0 s=255,c=0,t=17,pt=0,l=5,sg=0,ft=0,st=fail:2.0.0 TSP:MSG:SEND 165-165-0-0 s=255,c=3,t=6,pt=1,l=1,sg=0,ft=1,st=ok:0 TSP:MSG:SEND 165-165-0-0 s=255,c=3,t=11,pt=0,l=18,sg=0,ft=0,st=ok:Temperature Sensor TSP:MSG:SEND 165-165-0-0 s=255,c=3,t=12,pt=0,l=3,sg=0,ft=0,st=ok:1.1 TSP:MSG:SEND 165-165-0-0 s=0,c=0,t=6,pt=0,l=0,sg=0,ft=0,st=ok: Request registration... TSP:MSG:SEND 165-165-0-0 s=255,c=3,t=26,pt=1,l=1,sg=0,ft=0,st=ok:2 TSP:MSG:READ 0-0-165 s=255,c=3,t=27,pt=1,l=1,sg=0:1 Node registration=1 Init complete, id=165, parent=0, distance=1, registration=1 TSP:MSG:SEND 165-165-0-0 s=0,c=1,t=0,pt=7,l=5,sg=0,ft=0,st=ok:22.5 I see the gateway led blinking so its receiving the messages but the jeedom box doesn't recognize the node. !TSP:MSG:SEND 165-165-0-0 s=255,c=0,t=17,pt=0,l=5,sg=0,ft=0,st=fail:2.0.0 I can't understand what this st=fail means, and if it can be the root of my problem ? any idea please
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  water meter - reading method with Line Track Sensor
  • MikaelK  

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  @Patrik-Söderström - I made some more tests but with the same conclusion... still lurking in the back of my head what to do but no good answer so far. I dont want to use RpI even if its a good sollution. Its way to expensive compared to my normal projects. Maybe install a real waterflow meter somewhere... not that expensive in that link AWI posted... dont know if it can handle a normal household flow though.
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  EAGLE library for RFM69HW and similar radios
  • GertSanders  

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  @GertSanders Hi. I'm not in front of my eagle stuff but you can extract it from this: https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-rfm69hcw-and-rfm96-rfm95-rfm98-lora-packet-padio-breakouts/downloads Side note: RFM95W and RFM69HCW shares the same footprint whereas RFM69HW has a different pinout. So for my long range nodes, i prefer RFM95W/69HCW footprint, more versatile imho As tbowmo said LORA is a spec. On my side i plan to use RFM95W for its features and longer range, in raw radio mode as we're using with mysensors. So it could offer more flexibility maybe, if i need repeaters etc.. I started something (a lib) a while ago but not finished, and now i'm trying to refactor rfm69 lib, then rfm95 if not already done. If you don't find your wish in the link above, i can send you/help you with some stuff i have done. I hope this helps, a bit
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  MY_NODE_ID AUTO doesn't work, what am I missing?
  • ikkeT  

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  I think PIDome handles it. https://pidome.org/support/manual/devices/supported-devices/mysensors-devices.html
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  Reasonable radio range for a battery powered SenseBender + radio setup?
  • stevebus  

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  BTW - meant to mention.. The batteries I'm using measure 3.13V on my multimeter
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  Decent Accuracy Temp&Humidity Sensors?
  • NotYetRated  

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  @robosensor said: @ahhk https://www.bosch-sensortec.com/de/homepage/products_3/environmental_sensors_1/bme280/bme280_1 Average current consumption (1Hz data refresh rate) 1.8 μA @ 1 Hz (H, T) 2.8 μA @ 1 Hz (P, T) 3.6 μA @ 1 Hz (H, P, T) H - humidity, P - pressure, T - temperature 0.1 μA in sleep mode Supply voltage 1.71 - 3.6 V I also failed into this trap in fact, bme280 consumption in NORMAL mode is 450-600ua
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  Suggestions to replace Thermostat?
  • xefil  

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  @AWI Maybe I will switch to a Dallas DS18B20 sensor then. I don't really need to know the humidity anyway. I have been using DHT sensors around my house for a couple of years (mostly to keep track of the temperature) and they seem to be working fine. I haven't done any scientific tests but they all have around the same temperature. I also have some Dallas sensors which also seem to be fine. Nothing has been off enough for me to notice or question their accuracy. The main reason I switched from a DS18B20 to a DHT22 was because the library was smaller and I needed to trim down the flash memory in my sketch. Now that I am upgrading to MySensors 2.0 I have regained 7kb of memory just from the upgrade (I also upgraded the Arduino IDE).
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  Soldering tips for atmega328p-au?
  • NeverDie  

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  I haven't tried it on an atmega328p-au. Have you? Are you able to get all the solder paste molten at once so that the chip does auto-alignment with the pads like it would in a reflow oven?
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  Ethernet gateway not willing to accept IP number
  • Maurizio Collu  

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  @Maurizio-Collu I don't see anything wrong with that. You're the one saying something is wrong Could you describe what you do when you try to find the W5100 gateway, what you expected to happen when you tried that, and what you experienced instead?
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  Porting MySensors to non-arduino platforms (like ARM mbed)
  arduino porting arm mbed • • nono8223  

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  @nono8223 I think it will be a good idea as long as there are people actively developing & supporting the platform now and in the future. Recently the Raspberry Pi port (or Linux, in general) has been updated and included in the core library, so MySensors is no longer Arduino-only.
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  MCU Output Driver Verification
  • jecci  

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  @jecci if you will be driving inductive loads I would suggest to include a snubber circuit. A good article and design considerations here
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  Help to dimmer a LED bulb 220V
  • xefil  

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  The reason is to not modify the actual light source because all bulbs are already present. It's difficult to create a dimmer for 220V source? I really don't know
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  Nice power regulator for testing
  • Martin Tellblom  

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  Using wifi on a pi
  • midihipi  

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  Level Shifter for RFM69
  rfm69 • • TimO  

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  Amazing! Thank you @AWI!
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  Ranges of Radios
  • jamesmc86  

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  Welcome to the MySensors community @jamesmc86 ! Radio range is very hard to predict. It depends on so many factors. But the cheap nrf radios generally have a range of 10-50 meters, so 30-160ft. That can be extended by using better antennas, better location of the nodes and the gateway, power amplifiers and repeater nodes. If you are not in a hurry, order a few and see what range you get. You can use @AWI's connection quality meter to test the range.
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  MySensors MiLight integration
  • CrankyCoder  

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  Nice/cheap shield for nano/24L01
  • siklosi  

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  Just a heads up to prevent others from running in to same issue as I did. I tried to use this board together with a RFM69 radio module that I had connected through a Logic Level Shifter connecting it to the 8 pin nRF24L01 interface but I just could not get it to communicate. The problem was that the MOSI,SCK, CE and CSn pins had some resistor bridge voltage dividers on the board. I removed the voltage dividers and it started to work. I could probably have used the RFM69 module without the Logic Level Shifter directly on this board but I did not want to risk damaging the radios since they are the most expensive part in this setup.
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  Relay override using togle switch
  • carlos  

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  Great!! Exactly what I needed!!. I will look for a switch like that. Many thanks Carlos
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  Coin cell based small sensor node / handsoldering smd parts
  • LastSamurai  

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  @scalz Thanks a lot! I sure do. It's great to see that others (which gave me a lot of help here) can use my work too @carmelo42 Thank you too! Here is the link. They are running just fine like this but remember that the CR2032 battery holder mounting holes on the pcb aren't perfect yet (see project page).
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  915 mhz Skew-Planar Wheel Antenna
  • patt896  

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  Wow.. interesting shape of that one.
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  Including new sensor problem
  • miro  

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  The only thing I changed in parts is that I use a NRF24L01+ with antenna. But I don`t think I need to change anything in the code for that? And I use a Arduino Pro mini 3.3V with two AA Batteries.
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  RCS RS485 thermostat
  • dbemowsk  

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  @awi I am part way through your article on strings describing the stack and the heap. GREAT article. I have not finished it yet, but what I have read so far is excellent info.
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  RFM69HC, Antenna and range, troubleshooting?
  • Chester  

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  @Chester - I would connect my nodes to the serial monitor and watch what happens. Do you recieve the info in your gw but not to the controller? Also check out: https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/666/debug-faq-and-how-ask-for-help
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  Nano on Battery(Programming problem)
  • clio75  

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  I was not able to upload a sketch with "arduino as ISP" so I whent back to my orginal idea to use a FTDI232(like I use for microPro). I looked into the schematic on the nano and the micro. I found that on the micro the DTR pin there is a capacitor between reset and DTR input.. But the reset pin on the Nano did not. So I modified one FTDI232 with a capacitor 0,1uF (See picture). When I also crossed the TX/RX pins it finally works
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  Issues with setting up my Arduino Nano SerialGateway
  • Christian Simonsen  

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  This isn't working at all. First, yes you have fake chips, I have the same ones, but they work with the RF24 library just fine so far. Second, the payload should be either the current microseconds or a steadily incrementing number. The payload you're getting is the result of either bad power or incorrect pin out to your controller, usually the CE and CSN are wrong.
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  Switchcases?
  • kk02067  

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  You can also use this solution. It's not extremely cheap but it's all already done, you can reprogram the ESP8266 inside to put a MySensors gateway sketch. https://www.itead.cc/smart-home/smart-socket-eu.html
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  Attiny85 + NRF24L01+ using 3 pins
  • naviathan  

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  @hek Thanks for pointing me in the right direction for searching the forum more effectively. Google is indeed a friend in this case! BR, Boozz
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  NRF24 + 433mhz sharing antenne - Possible?
  • bloody2k  

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  @bloody2k - if both recievers are 433mhz - I dont know. If you have one 2.4ghz reciever (like nr24l01+ or ESP) then no, its not the same wavelength and requiers different length on the antenna to perform.
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  MySensors + NRF24L01 + RasPi2?
  • ikkeT  

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  OK, then I just screwed up something. Thanks for the info, so I know I can do this also with my old raspi one day. My old raspi dates 2011.12 on it. Well served.
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  Cheap but effective cable connectors to upgrade my projects
  • LastSamurai  

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  @chrille Thanks, so a higher quality tools seems to be the better choice (like always^^). Does anyone else have any ideas?
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  Looking for a suitable "pinhole" type push to reset button
  • TommySharp  

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  The first link in https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/4235/nice-push-buttons should do the trick, and the ones called "tact switches" further down in that thread.
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  ESP8266 12E without radio
  • asward2  

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  Yes, But you have to use the development branch until 2.0.1 has been released (as presentation of attached sensors not work as intended in 2.0.0).
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  How to measure small vibration
  • jesper  

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  @jesper said: How to measure small vibration? I must measure when a vaskemasine stops , there are some who know what sensor i should use ? In another thread this module was suggested - I have no personal experience with it https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1pc-lot-SW-420-Normally-Closed-Alarm-Vibration-Sensor-Module-Vibration-Switch-30512/32259757483.html Jan
• 

  Question: How esp8266 fits in mysensors architecture?
  • carlos  

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  Hello Mikael. Thanks to your help, I am getting closer to my final solution for a heating control project of my appartment. I am thinking in choosing a location for my esp8266 gateway in a room close to some of my sensors and actuators which could then be wired directly to this esp8266 circuit. This gateway will also have a RF component attached "nRF24L01+" and this will allow RF communication with the rest of the nodes. for any temperature sensor nodes which I cannot wire to the gateway I found very interesting the sensebender micro you mentioned in other post. For the radiator valve actuator I find very interesting a video on using a relay posted by petewill. I am also trying to understand the section about "AC-DC double solid state relay module" posted by Aproxx and Hex. I guess that module is meant to be used by lights rather than a water valve actuator which is more like a motor. My valve actuators require 230v, uses a maximum of 5 wats and they just have on/off possition. I hope I could use something like this AC-DC double solid state relay. I am looking forward to receive the pieces I ordered and start playing around. Thanks again Carlos
• 

  Arduino Nano + NRF24L01 in single side PCB
  • riataman  

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• 

  PowerSaving cutting
  • Martin Tellblom  

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  @Martin-Tellblom said: Thank you, I try that first. I cut the red LED and let the blue one be (since it just blinks a couple of times when starting up) I would just desolder the led and volt. regulator. I find it harder to cut and I have destroyed some doing so.
• 

  Should I go for esp8266 or may be nRF24L01+Arduino nano
  • carlos  

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  depending on distance, another option (instead of NRF24) is to use RFM69, which is sub-ghz, which in general has a better radio coverage, than 2.4Ghz, like the NRF24 operates on. RFM69 can be combined with both arduino and esp8266.
• 

  Support for APC220 RF
  • dk_iot  

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  Just a thought, but could this be done using rs485/rs232 as network transport? If it does work like a null modem, then it could be worth a shot. /Thomas
• 

  Communication problems v2.0.0 between GW and nodes.
  • bisschopsr  

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  @xydix NRF modules are sensitive to power fluctuations, so take care that you have a stable source. Is the booster of good quality or producing noise on the power lines?. The converter can produce a high frequency signal on the powerline, also know as noise. You can try to filter the noise with a small capacitor like 100nF or maybee even smaller depending on the freqency of the noise coming from the booster. My problem was/is the distance between the GW and the sensor currently, other problems were related to power as well, solved for now (see above my findings) @rubyan Sounds like power trouble and/or distance between GW and sensor. Powering from the Nano is in genaral not a good thing. The supply might be to week. Use an external power source and some capacitors (see above) Also try to see if putting the GW and sensors at a distance helps.
• 

  Battery booster / voltage regulator
  • xydix  

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  @xydix no worries with voltage below 3.3V. On the pro mini the BOD (which will reset arduino if voltage is too low) is set at 2.7v so you have a lot of margin. I use some sensor with CR2032 cell battery which has a maximum voltage of 3.1 and it's not a problem. You need to be over the BOD voltage that's your only limit. If you are using a 8MHz pro mini it can run at this frequency down to 2.4V at least. NRF24 will run as low as 1.9V.
• 

  How to force DS18B20s to use 12 bit outputs.
  • robertober  

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  Thanks for the feedback. I have several graphs in my XTension Webremote that are showing my temperatures as a seesaw between whole degrees. Accuracy is fine, the half degree C is more than close enough, I just want the graphs to be smoother.
• 

  Over the air
  • CrankyCoder  

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  @scalz oh sweet. More info Very cool. Did anyone find a good location for the memory chips? I am not opposed to ali but amazon prime would be better
• 

  Yet Another RGB driver (activeRGB)
  • activemind  

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  @activemind do you already have a BOM? and is there chance to help you out? I would be willing to assemble one or two of the boards :bowtie:
• 

  rfm69 frequency question
  • alexsh1  

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  I wish I knew about it before as I ordered several Moteinos without radios, which are very cheap in the US, and then ordering 868Mhz radios separately. Well, well - every day I learn something new
• 

  Adafruit Feather M0 RFM69 Packet Radio (433 or 900 MHz)
  • Tagore.PDE  

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  @Fotofieber I was more talking about Atmel M0 mcu which are well integrated into Arduino. So your boards are ST mcu. They seems to be nice (but a bit memory limited), and cheap. I have a nucleo board from ST which is also very nice because they are cheap (10$) and they have the programmer&debugger embedded and you can detach it. But even if this ST mcu is M0, Arduino boards core files can differ. That said, there is STM32duino for arduino, but I've never used it with Mysensors. And I'm not playing actually with ST. It could work out of the box depending of mysensors features used (compiling) but not really sure, I don't know the state of integration for these module in Arduino. You would need to use at least the spi port referenced by your board and the STM32duino. SPi port is spi port. For other pins like interrupt, CS etc.., that would need to check how pin are defined in STM32duino. I'm not sure if that will work easily out of the box...(https://www.hackster.io/rayburne/4-dollar-90-mips-32-bit-72-mhz-arm-arduino-f6e5c9) I know there are few other people working on ATSAM boards for mysensors On my side, few months ago I have designed a lipo charger board for ATSAM. sort of featherM0 that i have improved for using with mysensors (spi flash for ota, eeprom for mysensors config, etc..)..I will release it if it can help My project was looking to this https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/3551/my-32bits-atsam-node-project Since, i have made other atsam boards for fun and I can't wait my esp32 module order which could change the game and my opinion... I could try a bit later (actually busy), with my nucleo board...but i can't tell when for the moment..
• 

  MG812(Co2) Sensor ppm calculation
  • Mahendra Sondagar  

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  @Yveaux Have you read datasheet here... At the o\p side they mention unity gain amplifier with OpAmp but the thing is that unity gain amplifier always produced same output volts!
• 

  Wemos D1 mini gateway
  • stephenmhall  

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  Coming late but, could I have schematic please ? ... what about the sketch ?
• 

  Distance for sensor and board
  • Patrik Söderström  

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  @sundberg84 Yesterday I found you forum post at bygghus.se I was stuck at the phone for a long time reading it all! I´m very impressed and I will for sure order some of your board for the aurdino. @stevebus Great! I´m trying to find a Arduino Uno board, looks like the one in the mysensors hardware is out of stock. I searched on ebay and found this one, is it legit and the real thing? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Arduino-Genuino-UNO-R3-Compatible-ATmega328P-ATmeg-a16U2-with-USB-cable-/252365926607?hash=item3ac22e70cf:g:DR8AAOSw1DtXHD1s
• 

  Why You Should Encase Your Nodes
  nrf24l01+ weatherstation • • wergeld  

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  @TheoL No damage. Water went up about 7 feet on our lake but had another 11 feet to go to threaten our property. Biggest flooding was to the south of us. We did have a fun time hiding out in our laundry room during tornado flying up to the east of us. Also, I do not think the radio is dead - hooked it by accident to my Uno testing board and it was transmitting just fine. Love these things - very tough.
• 

  How to use HLK-PM01 (basic AC power questions)
  • JonnyDev13  

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  @sundberg84, thank you for the input. I will make sure to get the additional parts so that I don't risk any problems happening because of an unprotected converter.
• 

  Rechargeable Lithium Ion Sensor Custom PCB
  • HenryWhite  

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  @toufou said: You use a motion sensor as i want. You make a reference to a hack to use it with 3.3V instead of 5V. Have you a link to see that? Yes, here's a picture (the only thing you have to do is solder vcc to the HIGH-pad of your motion sensor):
• 

  Problem building MQTT Gateway ver 2.0
  • siod  

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  @siod said: Contact FensterKzR "Fenster Rechts" (FF_Kz) {mqtt="<[mysensors-1:mygateway1-out/3/2/V_TRIPPED:state:OPEN:1],<[mysensors-1:mygateway1-out/3/2/V_TRIPPED:state:CLOSED:0]"} Can't tell if you fixed this yet but your Contact Item is incorrect. You've stated the topic in the MQTT part as "mygateway1-out/3/2/V_TRIPPED" when it should actually be "mygateway1-out/3/2/1/0/16"
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  Using the 3.3V pin to power NRF24L01+
  • Martin Tellblom  

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  @172pilot calling sleep will power down the radio. The nrf should consume 900nA in power down mode. Which mcu are you using? If you're using Pro Mini, have you removed the led and regulator? More information on battery powering: https://www.mysensors.org/build/battery
• 

  Power meter
  • siklosi  

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  That display will measure the load that you connect to it but maybe you can hack it and send information to the display instead?
• 

  110v-230v AC to Mysensors PCB board
  • aproxx  

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  @bruno tanke you, very good. I share it in facebook.
• 

  [WIP] Best practices to power your nodes
  • Daniel Oliveira  

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  I think you mean a smoothing cap instead of bypass cap http://www.learningaboutelectronics.com/Articles/What-is-a-smoothing-capacitor The smoothing cap for NRF24L01+ VCC/GND is not an exact science, it depends of the quality your power source can supply. If you have a battery operated device, you might not need it at all. battery is a large cap. and if using in battery operation your MCU/NRF is sleeping most of the time, and only transmitting shortly, and then sleep again to save battery lifetime. When using a AC230V -> 5 or 3,3V most converter are DC/DC and the DC signal is not smooth like a battery, to help and get this voltage signal better you need cap. The closer to NRF24L01+ VCC/GND the better. I don't believe that cheap power supplies from ebay/China are providing quality voltage... The cap size is most likely depending on how you again are using your NRF24L01+, is it continuous receiving and transmitting - like a repeater node, I recommend a large cap, if it's only transmitting occasionally and not a repeater node, you can use a smaller cap. The final cap size is usually what you have in your drawer + that can fit into your plastic housing
• 

  What hardware to choose for this scenarios
  • Patrik Söderström  

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  Again, thanks for quick reply. I´m starting to get a better understanding now of how its meant to be used I have ordered some hardware now and will start to test. Thanks once again.
• 

  rfm69 network issue
  • alexsh1  

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  @frencho said: @chrille working, the antenna was the problem. I ordered some small antenna on ebay, and it s fine now ^^ Glad to hear it's working now. After creating a "real" PCB for my RFM69 gateway the issue went away - and it works reliable both with an external antenna and a small rubber antenna.
• 

  TI CC2541 no GATT communication
  • victus  

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  @victus I haven't seen anyone using CC2561 - almost everyone is using AtMega328 or ESP8266. MySensors does not utilize ble. Therefore this might not be the best forum to ask for advice, unfortunately. But there are a lot of hardware nerds around so you might get lucky.
• 

  Trouble while flashing Sensebender Micro: protocol error, expect=0x14, resp=0x90
  • christiang  

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  Probably a lower baudrate would fix things. You need to build a new bootloader with correct baudrate though. I can't remember which crystal I designed to be used on the sensebender. It was with 32khz oscillator in mind though, as there is no external load capacitors (you need to add them if you want to use 8mhz crystal)
• 

  Ethernet Gateway with W5100: radio error [solved]
  • bisschopsr  

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  @mfalkvidd Thx: sometimes life is so simple. I totally did not notice that this slipped in... Problem solved! And to answer my other question myself: I don't need to enable softspi in the MyConfig.h I guess. Works without it apperently.
• 

  Dallas OneWire questions
  • dbemowsk  

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  This is how I solved it with identification(DeviceAddress) https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/4143/about-ds18b20-onewire
• 

  Arduino UNO and RFM69 - level converter
  • xefil  

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  @Yveaux said: @xefil does this Ethernet shield also have an SD card slot? If so, it shares the spi bus with the rfm. You should make sure the SD card chip-select line is high, before the mysensors library is initialized (implement the pin initialization in the before()-method). Otherwise the SD card communication will interfere with the rfm communication. Yes, it has a SD card module as well. How to disable it? I've tried it so: void before() { // disable SD card pinMode(4, OUTPUT); digitalWrite(4, HIGH); } Actually I get simply this: 0;255;3;0;9;Starting gateway (RRNGA-, 2.0.0) 0;255;3;0;9;TSM:INIT 0;255;3;0;9;!TSM:RADIO:FAIL 0;255;3;0;9;!TSM:FAILURE 0;255;3;0;9;TSM:PDT And what is that for? Does it help? // W5100 Ethernet module SPI enable (optional if using a shield/module that manages SPI_EN signal) //#define MY_W5100_SPI_EN 4 Thanks! Simon This is the whole code again I'm using now: #include <SPI.h> // Enable debug prints to serial monitor #define MY_DEBUG // Enables and select radio type (if attached) //#define MY_RADIO_NRF24 #define MY_RADIO_RFM69 #define MY_GATEWAY_MQTT_CLIENT // Set this nodes subscripe and publish topic prefix #define MY_MQTT_PUBLISH_TOPIC_PREFIX "mygateway2-out" #define MY_MQTT_SUBSCRIBE_TOPIC_PREFIX "mygateway2-in" // Set MQTT client id #define MY_MQTT_CLIENT_ID "mysensors-2" // W5100 Ethernet module SPI enable (optional if using a shield/module that manages SPI_EN signal) //#define MY_W5100_SPI_EN 4 // Enable Soft SPI for NRF radio (note different radio wiring is required) // The W5100 ethernet module seems to have a hard time co-operate with // radio on the same spi bus. #if !defined(MY_W5100_SPI_EN) && !defined(ARDUINO_ARCH_SAMD) #define MY_SOFTSPI #define MY_SOFT_SPI_SCK_PIN 14 #define MY_SOFT_SPI_MISO_PIN 16 #define MY_SOFT_SPI_MOSI_PIN 15 #endif // When W5100 is connected we have to move CE/CSN pins for NRF radio #define MY_RF24_CE_PIN 5 #define MY_RF24_CS_PIN 6 // Enable these if your MQTT broker requires usenrame/password //#define MY_MQTT_USER "username" //#define MY_MQTT_PASSWORD "password" // Enable MY_IP_ADDRESS here if you want a static ip address (no DHCP) #define MY_IP_ADDRESS 192,168,1,52 // If using static ip you need to define Gateway and Subnet address as well #define MY_IP_GATEWAY_ADDRESS 192,168,1,1 #define MY_IP_SUBNET_ADDRESS 255,255,255,0 // MQTT broker ip address. #define MY_CONTROLLER_IP_ADDRESS 192,168,1,50 // The MQTT broker port to to open #define MY_PORT 1883 /* // Flash leds on rx/tx/err #define MY_LEDS_BLINKING_FEATURE // Set blinking period #define MY_DEFAULT_LED_BLINK_PERIOD 300 // Enable inclusion mode #define MY_INCLUSION_MODE_FEATURE // Enable Inclusion mode button on gateway #define MY_INCLUSION_BUTTON_FEATURE // Set inclusion mode duration (in seconds) #define MY_INCLUSION_MODE_DURATION 60 // Digital pin used for inclusion mode button #define MY_INCLUSION_MODE_BUTTON_PIN 3 // Uncomment to override default HW configurations //#define MY_DEFAULT_ERR_LED_PIN 16 // Error led pin //#define MY_DEFAULT_RX_LED_PIN 16 // Receive led pin //#define MY_DEFAULT_TX_LED_PIN 16 // the PCB, on board LED */ #include <Ethernet.h> #include <MySensors.h> void before() { // disable SD card pinMode(4, OUTPUT); digitalWrite(4, HIGH); } void setup() { } void presentation() { // Present locally attached sensors here } void loop() { // Send locally attech sensors data here }
• 

  Problem with RFM69 on homemade board
  • voximdo  

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  Thank you very much for suggestions. I will try to check that over the weekend, then I will let you know about my results. In the meantime if someone has any other ideas why it doesn't work or how to debug it somehow I would appreciate.
• 

  Manufacturing and selling proto boards
  • sky2000  

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  Thanks for all your comments I would like to start as small and cheap as possible but to be able to scale it up. It is on purpose to not have kickstarter in mind. I even don't want to calculate a big business case.. But I would need to if I have to pay for all the certifications and USB id. So, I am still not sure if it would work with this component/evaluation thing using a big disclaimer. If so, I could think about assembling and selling it on my own. But I only know the Chinese services - but have not tried them for assembling yet. I think any service in Germany would be too expensive.. And all the selling/shipping part.. is this easier on eBay? I think I have to look around much more.. Or let Seeed or Itead produce and sell it as ODM. Then they would be responsible for everything!?. But I don't know how flexible this works and how much I would get in the end. I think I try to go this way.. first for assembly.. I think the series on hackaday does not cover the real interesting things on selling a kit/electronic part - so far. But this is a good hint. I will ask some well known names out there Too bad, that I don't know any kind of incubator here in northern Germany. Yes, the board is powered by 5V like from the USB port which is directly connected to the MCU. So, I need to burn a bootloader otherwise someone could only program it with a 10 pin SWD Cortex programmer. But thanks for the pid.code - I have not known/found this before. This would be really great So, still a lot to think about and not enough time.. and I even still don't have a name but things are going on.. My real dream would be to create such an "all in service" to realise all these nice hobby projects out there! Maybe hardware.io will be there one day
• 

  Use Nrf24 with Mysensor and an Arduino Mega 2560
  • samyabd  

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  I have one built at home but for some reason it fails so often on FPAR No idea why.
• 

  1mhz hardware
  • CrankyCoder  

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  @cimba007 Thanks for the details. Let me get you back some info. yes, my buttons are setup like the pullup example image i didn't think the multimeter would do it, but at this point i am willing to try anything I will pull my mini tonight and remove everything and do a test. my code only wakes up when button is pressed or every 24 hours. so it shouldn't come on while testing. Ill try with my code and with the sleep example you referenced. Thanks!!!!
• 

  Replacing a DS2423 with a mysensors sensor, Possible?
  • Martin Tellblom  

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  Thank you , Ill try that. I missed that one I think my giving about 100 pulses / litre.
• 

  [SOLVED] Long distance radios not working with mySensors code (nrf24l01+)
  • edsteve  

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  Hey Vidd, Thanks for your perfect answer and the diagram. Useful info for newbie like me I tried external power for the radio and it worked right away. I got mislead from the fact that the radio worked with a simple test code but not with mysensors code.
• 

  Read LED full size works, smd does not
  • Martin Tellblom  

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  Found the problem myself There was another resistor on the other side of the PCB. If I connect the cable there instead it works
• 

  Looking for photodiode circuit (like the cheap ones on aliexpress)
  • TheoL  

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• 

  Nrf24 mini smd + Nrf24l01+
  • Wodian  

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  @Nca78 Many thanks for your constructive feedback I've added the additional feedback on Aliexpress and contacted the supplier that these NRF24L01 modules arent working so Ill inform anyone that buys/sells those items. Will now order good clones on Aliexpress Kind Regards, Wodian
• 

  Has anyone tried to mount mySensors into this DIY led lig bulp?
  • TheoL  

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• 

  Read color of a LED?
  • Martin Tellblom  

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  If you are open for some expriments: http://www.instructables.com/id/LEDs-as-light-sensors/ This might even be double usefull as different LED-Colors as "light sensor" would react different. e.g. for your red/green led .. if you pick a red led as "light sensor" you might get a much stronger reading then from the green led and hopefully a distinctive zero reading if none of them is on.
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  Hardware debouncing with 74HC14?
  • TheoL  

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  http://www.jeremyblum.com/2011/03/07/arduino-tutorial-10-interrupts-and-hardware-debouncing/ I followed this tutorial and it works flawlessly http://www.jeremyblum.com/2011/03/07/arduino-tutorial-10-interrupts-and-hardware-debouncing/
• 

  Ultra-slim NRF24L01
  • clio75  

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  Also, when the seller writes "similar" you can expect the worst compatibility problems
• 

  Mysensors on ESP8266- ESP01?
  • Elfnoir  

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  @Dwalt Hi, Im also looking for documentation on this Regards, Jan
• 

  ESP8285
  • hek  

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  @scalz right I'm always thinking about the nrf24 because that's all I use at the moment, but for sure with rfm radios having hardware encryption that's much safer.
• 

  Controlling LEDs with the IRLZ44N
  • Oitzu  

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  @Oitzu - From the information in the past replies and your original post i thought you was using the IRLZ44N.... If you did get this working, attempt to find the part you used please. I will order some genuine version from Farnell(Element 14) and compare the success to that of the Aliexpress version.
• 

  Battery power (cr2032) on 2.0?
  battery cr2032 • • CrankyCoder  

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  You can put 100uf on each even 200uf would not be able to handle only one tx, so.. but you need them at least for coin cells. you would need more capa to handle tx..but the more capa the more time they take for recharging, and the recharging if big, increase internal res of the coin cell and that's not so good too; to prevent this that would need a current resistor limiter..etc a whole balance! On mine for instance, I have 100uF for coincell, 100uF for PIR and 86uf on radio. Fresh varta coincell 3.02V, after multiple presentation tx 2.85V if I remember, not so bad. but that's an homemade pcb. Another notes, it's better to use ceramic capacitor (because of leakage, if you want to optimize), and better smd, but that's not your case I think.
• 

  NodeMcu V3 as an RF Transceiver for Mysensors device?
  • leeoz  

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  @leeoz yes, you can attach sensors to an ESP8266 and then communicate with the controller but you need to use the Gateway sketch and add the sensor code to that. Basically it will be another gateway with locally attached sensors. However, as far as I know you can not build a "MySensors" radio network by using WiFi.
• 

  IBoard with MySensors 2.0 library
  • Bart Baars  

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  Several years ago I built my Ethernet Gateway using this iBoard and the MySensors 1.2 firmware. I made the wiring changes on the board to use the "vanilla" Ethernet Gateway software and the NRF24L01 Radio. I am still using it but I'm ready to make the move to MySensors 2.0 so I'm pleased to see the board works with the new library. Did you make physical wiring changes on your hardware to suit the radio or just make the changes in changes in the Config. I have two of the iBoards, one with modified traces and one out of the box so I can go either way
• 

  Power external sensors on demand
  • hensing  

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  @hensing just look at the data sheet. Features • Wide Single−Supply Range: 2.0 Vdc to 36 Vdc • Split−Supply Range: ± 1.0 Vdc to ± 18 Vdc • Very Low Current Drain Independent of Supply Voltage: 0.4 mA • Low Input Bias Current: 25 nA • Low Input Offset Current: 5.0 nA • Low Input Offset Voltage: 5.0 mV (max) LM293/393 I wouldn't worry about the LM393 destroying your Arduino.
• 

  How to get sensors to report when sleeping -- other systems seem to do it
  • linus72982  

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  @linus72982 For a door sensor there is little use in 'polling' the door state from the base station; it's much more efficient to only send the state changes from the sensor to the base station. That's probably what the SimpliSafe does, so the sensors can powerdown their radios until a door's state changes. You can achieve the same thing using an nRF24 radio and wire the door contact to an interrupt pin of the AVR. The AVR and radio will be asleep at very low power until woken by the interrupt. Once an interrupt occurs the sensor will send the new state to the gateway+controller ('base station'). This scenario is very energy efficient and can easily run for a long time without replacing batteries. See e.g. this example sketch on how to achieve this with MySensors.
• 

  NRF24L01+PA+LNA SMD: anyone tried it?
  • vga  

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  @vga said: looking for a better range Did you consider switching to RFM69 (sub-Ghz)?
• 

  Arduino Pro mini 3,3V + NRF24L01+: Can i change Pins?
  • vga  

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  ah, thanks mfalkvidd, thats what i´m looking for!
• 

  This topic is deleted!
  • NetRap  

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  Weight sensor node
  • Sefi Ninio  

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  This looks great! Thanks a lot @dbemowsk !
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  Windspeed sensor
  • TriXwooD  

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• 

  W25X40CLSNIG as flash for OTA
  • meddie  

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  Edit : It works. Just add #define MY_OTA_FLASH_JDECID 0xEF30
• 

  New tiny (cheap) GSM module
  • hek  

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  @mfalkvidd said: Interesting find! AT&T (and probably others) are in process of shutting down their 2G networks though - so anyone planning to use this module should check if they will still have 2G coverage in a year (or whatever time is applicable to your project). Has anyone seen if it is possible to use the ESP8266 as a NAT device? ESP8266 + this module would be a super-compact mobile internet router. I think they all are.. 2G will be no more in the next 12 months. (may not be an issue in countries outside the USA)
• 

  ESP-12E as pulse sensor with Eastron SDM120
  • ovdleun  

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  If you have TL light in the room where the meter is located will cause false pulses when you turn on/off the light. Try adding caps on both ends (near the kwh meter and your arduino)
• 

  Self Powered Inline AC Double Relay Module
  relay lighting ac power • • Samuel235  

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  The updates have been applied to Rev 2, below we have a list of everything that has been added/modified; Modification footprint for 3 items to make it easier to mount (Slow blow fuse, Thermal Fuse and Voltage Regulator) when hand soldering. Modification to nRF24L01+ Module to remove the short to ground on VCC line. Added the additional silkscreen labeling that was missed off by accident. This should be all that is needed for Rev 2 to be a successor to the Rev 1. We still have the issue with having to use pogo pins to program through the ISP connection, or to temporarily solder jumper wire into the 6 pin connection while uploading, then everything else can be programmed through the on-board FTDI connection. Will get the gerber files generated ASAP and then get them sent off for testing production runs.
• 

  Mini NFR24L01 SMD
  • Lars65  

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  @Lars65 Nice work!
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  Ceech board upgrade
  • ceech  

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  New boards are ready and are being tested. Here is one connected to a Bluetooth module charging a battery: This is the code used in battery voltage and charge current monitoring: float readVcc() { signed long resultVcc; float resultVccFloat; // Read 1.1V reference against AVcc ADMUX = _BV(REFS0) | _BV(MUX3) | _BV(MUX2) | _BV(MUX1); delay(10); // Wait for Vref to settle ADCSRA |= _BV(ADSC); // Convert while (bit_is_set(ADCSRA,ADSC)); resultVcc = ADCL; resultVcc |= ADCH<<8; resultVcc = 1126400L / resultVcc; // Back-calculate AVcc in mV resultVccFloat = (float) resultVcc / 1000.0; // Convert to Float return resultVccFloat; } const int current = A6; const int lipo = A7; float vout = 0.0; float vin = 0.0; int value = 0; void setup() { Serial.begin(9600); } void loop() { float napetost = readVcc(); float tok = ((analogRead(current) * napetost / 1024 ) * 1200) / 3; // convert the ADC value of charge current to miliamps float baterija = ( analogRead(lipo) * napetost / 1024 ) * 2; // measuring battery voltage Serial.print("Vcc = "); Serial.print(napetost); Serial.println("V"); delay(400); Serial.print("Charge current = "); Serial.print(tok); Serial.println("mA"); delay(400); Serial.print("Battery voltage = "); Serial.print(baterija); Serial.println("V"); delay(400); Serial.println("----------------------------"); delay(2000); } /* Improving accuracy: To do so, simply measure your Vcc with a voltmeter and with our readVcc() function. Then, replace the constant 1107035L with a new constant: scale_constant = internal1.1Ref * 1024 * 1000 where internal1.1Ref = 1,1 * Vcc1 (per voltmeter) / Vcc2 (per readVcc() function) Example: For instance, I measure 3,43V from my FTDI, the calculated value of Vref is 1,081V. So (1,081 x 1000 x 1024) = 1107034,95 or 1107035L rounded up. Use smoothing example from IDE to smooth the data from ADC. */ Charge current is limited to 400mA and can be easily changed to another value by changing just one resistor.
• 

  Where do I cut the pro-mini's LED?
  • linus72982  

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  The regulator is directly to the left of the led. It has 3 legs on one side and 2 on the other. I use a small side cutter to cut the 2 legs and then i wiggle the regulator up and down until the 3 legs break.
• 

  Voltage divider for radio
  power voltage voltage divider • • CrankyCoder  

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  @Jason-Brunk small value resistors can do the trick but you better try two silicon diodes 1N4001 or similar in series with the power line. Each diode give you around.0.7 volt drop.
• 

  Repeater in Domoticz (Another one)
  • popunonkok  

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  @popunonkok If you want to change location of your devices, plug in Gateway fist, then repeater and last your nodes. If you don't see your node in your Controller it can be that there is no con crib between node and GW/Repeater.
• 

  Display info from nodes directly on Gateway?
  • bartaspoz  

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  @bartaspoz I don't have experience with HA but can't see how the compatibility list of Domoticz can grow much further. My suggestion would be to determine what you need and go from there. Quality can and will outlive quantity.
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  This topic is deleted!
  • Gustafsson  

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• 

  selection of proximity sensor
  • mcamiea  

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  @mcamiea I started with This tutorial. If it is still not clear let me know and dig the setup from the bottom of my drawer.
• 

  Arduino based Serial Gateway compatible with Atmega32U4 based Arduino Micro?
  • jerseyguy1996  

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• 

  irlz44n not fully open using 3.3V Arduino
  • mfalkvidd  

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  I think I was using some of these for my rgbw controller and they seem to work just fine for me. As I switched to smd parts I can't really help you though My only idea would be to control them via some (smaller) transistor(s) that can be fully opened with 3.3V (or just redesign).
• 

  NRF24 actual power (amps)?
  • leeoz  

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  @leeoz anything between 3uF and 50uF will do. A smaller ceramic capacitor of 10 to 100 nF in parallel makes it even better.
• 

  Options for cellular plans - SIM Data Only
  • bpair  

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  This site has the best collection I have found: http://www.embeddedworks.net/wsim3951.html In the US the T-Mobile pre-paid seems to be the best deal. Similar on sparkfun https://www.sparkfun.com/products/13186
• 

  Water high volume flow meter
  • ericvdb  

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  Here's one on AliExpress that can do 200 l/m: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/YF-DN50-2-inch-Large-diameter-turbine-flow-meter-water-flow-sensor-industrial-flow-meter-Available/32297810863.html?spm=2114.40010208.4.71.i72mzF. Not sure if I would trust it though.
• 

  The best memory chip for a SAMD node?
  • sky2000  

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  @sky2000 ah oki. i agree about saml registers, that's a big job. I'm for lowpower sub ghz too mainly because i don't want wifi for everything. but i have few things working with esp. and this is really a nice mcu if you don't look at pin count&mux, and power consumption. But spiffs, ota, lot of libs etc works very well. Impressive when you think this is quite recent. but look at the LoPy, esp32 based. ble mesh or subghz will be possible. i can't wait to make my own I think esp32 will be a game changer, sure more expensive than 8266. but I remember that 8266 didn't start at 2$ and today...you should look at the specs..https://espressif.com/en/products/hardware/esp32/overview
• 

  Any danger in using router antennas for NRF radio?
  • linus72982  

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  @linus72982 You will probably get slightly better range with one of the antennas. The original antennas that come with the modules are probably 1/2 wave antennas whereas the ones on the router could possibly be 5/8 or maybe even full wave which might give you a little gain. The receiving end of the module might not see much with the added length, but where you would get the boost is when it is transmitting. I am not sure that you would want to hook up both antennas as that may hurt your SWR on the transmitting end which would hinder performance rather than help.
• 

  PiGatewaySerial binding to openhab
  • jerseyguy1996  

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• 

  Sketch only works when console is open
  • niek  

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  @niek Try with a basic blink sketch and see what happens. if this keeps working add some serial output and see what happens.
• 

  Where to buy a flash for OTA (Germany)
  • meddie  

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  @LastSamurai said: @AWI Does this one work with mysensors? I mean the price is much better... Great, thanks! I will get some too then
• 

  Wall Switches Solid State relay 1cm Square
  • clivec  

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  isn`t AQH3223 non-zero cross ?
• 

  Omron D6T Series MEMS Thermal Sensors
  • Tore André Rosander  

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• 

  C18 LM393 light sensor
  • Aren  

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• 

  Super Simple RFM69HW Node
  • NeverDie  

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  @scalz said: can't help you for the moment. no need of challenge but nice try, i don't see why and for what??? Yeah, I see all too clearly what your saying. I'm outta here.
• 

  Combining RMF69HW and RFM12B's
  • RFM69  

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• 

  Glass Break Sensor as Switch
  • mh_alex  

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  @mh_alex great to hear, thanks for reporting back!
• 

  What is the difference between the NRF24L01 and NRF2401?
  • afeno  

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  @flopp said: https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/666/debug-faq-and-how-ask-for-help Sorry. I don't understand the answer. I'm looking for some information that I can't find on the web or Nordic's webpage and maybe someone in this form with enough experience already know the answer. I'm not looking for help or troubleshooting instructions. I only would like to know the difference between the two chips. It is not clear for me from what I found on Nordics... Thanks four your understanding. Regards, Alfredo.
• 

  Gateway hardware
  • CrankyCoder  

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  @Jason-Brunk I would recommend going for something newer like this: https://github.com/hallard/WeMos-RFM69 there is a lora version if you want to be too innovative: (currently not working with MySensors) https://github.com/hallard/WeMos-Lora The GWs above are very small - you can choose a custom enclosure easily. PS My recommendation would be RFM69 rather than NRF24
• 

  Adapter for RFM69 on NRF24L01+ pinout-header
  • GertSanders  

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  @drock1985 I know, RFM95 is even more expensive!
• 

  Relay with ACS712
  relay nrf24l01+ • • Dheeraj  

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  @Shivanand-Chanderbally I recently finished a node using the acs712 and found it to be very sensitive to nearby magnetic fields. It is best to have it as far away from these as you can.
• 

  2.4" TFT: does it work with MySensors?
  • jsiddall  

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  @the-cosmic-gate There are so many manufacturers! Generally, as a rule of thumb the cheaper you pay for the screen the more difficult it is to get it working. Besides, anything to do with Arduino does require some DIY skills Above I recommended Itead Studio screen, but it does cost more though works out of the box.
• 

  My MYSX Multisensors board
  • scalz  

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  Any update on this one? Chinese new year is over now...
• 

  This topic is deleted!
  • Barna  

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• 

  3.3v Pro Mini, Radio, Moisture Sensor and StepUp regulator - AA battery power
  • y4CdW42Ol8  

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  @y4CdW42Ol8 those calls are to the MySensors library . You are in the MySensors forum Starting at https://www.mysensors.org/about/ is the best way to learn about MySensors. The receive sketch is called a gateway. Read the links I posted for you in https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/4093/what-does-a-gateway-do/1 to learn about gateways.
• 

  Sensebender Micro & External Sensors (ds18b20)
  • Marcus Schmidke  

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  Get a sensor that supports lower voltages or get a step-up. Earlier discussions on the same topic: https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/3801/witch-temp-hum-sensor-is-best-to-use-for-battery-powered-sensors/ https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/3203/cheap-good-boost-converter-and-good-temperature-sensors/ https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/2027/test-of-step-up-modules-sparkfun-pololu-china-module-any-other/ https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/444/battery-powered-motion-sensor https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/171/efficiency-of-voltage-boosters
• 

  nrf24l01+ and rfm69*** on one GW
  • alexsh1  

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  @AWI thank you - yes I have Domoticz
• 

  Connecting NRF24L01+ to Arduino ProMini
  • y4CdW42Ol8  

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  @y4CdW42Ol8 IRQ is not used by MySensors library
• 

  Hacking a generic motion detector light
  • chuckconnors  

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  @Sparkman said: That is true, but it does make for a clean install and is also UL approved. Yes to both of those. The UL Approved portion was in the back of mind in regards to this project already. I wish I had an unlimited amount of funds!
• 

  NRF24L01 as BLE beacon
  • hek  

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  I also asked in another post about something like this... but I want the radio so read/sence if a device is close by (Wifi and Bluetooth for example) it seems to be the other way around... this sends and not read. Any tips for this would also be appreciated.
• 

  Multiple Gateways for Redundancy
  • CrankyCoder  

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• 

  Simple irrigation setup based on pro mini
  • dakky  

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  @mfalkvidd said: Yes you can use analog input as digital input if you like (but not as output). A5, A6 and A7 don't have internal pullups though so you might need to solder external pullups. EDIT: The distance sensor doesn't need pullups so you don't need to add any in this case. However, the TRIG signal to the HC-SR04 needs to be an output pin so you can't move that. You can move the moisture sensors, if you add external pullups (or buy sensors with built-in pullups). Ok sounds reasonable. Have to read more about that pullup/pulldown thing There is no way you can power everything through the voltage regulator on the Pro Mini. The absolute maximum total power rating for the Pro Mini is 150mA when powering through raw. Also note that most Arduino clones do not survive 12V raw input, and that the nrf radio needs approximately 3.3V. Ok I'll use one LM2596 in order to power all components directly + another 5V=>3V voltage regulator for the radio. This should work The relays are controlled by the output pins on the Arduino. The relays control power (12V in your case) that is coming from elsewhere. Relays often consume quite a lot of power (from the Arduino) when switching so make sure you add capacitors. You could also consider using FETs instead of relays. We've seen many threads on relay problems that were caused by power issues. Is that a problem too, when powering the relay directly from the LM2596? Otherwise i have to learn something about FETs Probably But the best way to learn is to try So true the problem is the "lost" time when waiting for another china package An alternative to getting 8 pumps is to get 1 pump and 8 valves. That will probably be cheaper. Hmm I did not find any cheap valves. One of the pumps is about $6. And valves cause one problem imho: they need pressure in order to work and this requires to activate the pump some seconds bevor triggering the valve => increased complexity @dbemowsk said: Are you aware of this project that is in the build section of the site? https://www.mysensors.org/build/irrigation I saw this one, but it's more a "standalone" solution imho. quite complex. I wanted just a stupid "tell me the moisture values and switch a relay"-solution @rest: hmm interesting. I will read something about these components, although I'm a little bit afraid of the required code changes
• 

  The Plantower Dust/Air quality sensor PMS3003
  • alexsh1  

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• 

  Raspberry PI as a Gateway
  • Lior Rubin  

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  hi! Start here: https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/2437/step-by-step-procedure-to-connect-the-nrf24l01-to-the-gpio-pins-and-use-the-raspberry-as-a-serial-gateway
• 

  Switch control - tested project
  • okos  

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  There is a forum thread you can start with: https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/3671/ac-dc-double-solid-state-relay-module The main problems with all how i see it ism safety and reliability! https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/1607/safe-in-wall-ac-to-dc-transformers Here is some other projects: https://www.openhardware.io/view/83/Smart-Light-Switch-220v https://www.openhardware.io/view/13/In-Wall-ACDC-Pcb-for-MySensors https://www.openhardware.io/view/101/Wall-Socket-Insertable-Node https://www.openhardware.io/view/48/Homini-In-Wall-Battery-Powered-Light-Switch-Module (will soon be a new project with relay)
• 

  This topic is deleted!
  • Mateusz Pięta  

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• 

  Gateway
  • CrankyCoder  

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  I found that thread late last night. I read through the WHOLE thing before going to bed. I have my evening plans set for tonight. I don't have any sensors really in use now, it's just more for testing. So I am all over this!!
• 

  Connecting a DS18b20 waterproof sensor to Sensebender micro
  • HarrySteff  

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• 

  ATmega2564RFR2 - MCU + RF, single chip solution.
  • Brijesh Mishra  

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• 

  Help converting 24VAC to 5VDC
  • petewill  

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  @Sparkman Cool, thanks for sharing! It's always nice to have options.
• 

  Powering a node with (18650) lithium batteries
  • LastSamurai  

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  @mfalkvidd Thanks! As energy harvesting doesn't seem to be "there" quite yet I will stick with both coincells and the 18650 lithium batteries as alternatives for my project (depending of the needed energy and space constraints of the single boards). Rechargeable or harvested power seems to be the only good solution for larger quantities of sensors in my opinion. Does anyone of you know where to buy cheap 18650's that don't explode and don't lie too much about their capacity
• 

  Relay turns on when input is LOW?!
  • dakky  

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  Ah that explains it for me. Thanks for the dettailed answer. I will @mfalkvidd's and switch the defines. thank you all Greetings
• 

  Is it possible to connect a Pro Mini directly to Raspberry Pi GPIO for Gateway?
  • drock1985  

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  @ToniA Thanks for the info. I tried playing around with it last night and like you mention, unless I invoked root, I could not get the port to work. I'm trying to see if there is another way to do it. Might have to just chmod 775 /dev/ttyAMA0 on boot. I'll try it again later tonight when i'm home. Thanks for the help.
• 

  [solved]Capacitor for radio module
  capacitor radio • • hannibal  

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  OK, I will do that
• 

  Connecting FTDI header to nano to read serial monitor?
  • Anduril  

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  Did you check RX and TX channels? My serial to usb converter has the labels already switched (so I have to connect Rx to Rx and Tx to Tx).
• 

  DHT22 generates off scale values
  pro mini dht22 spike • • Pavel Hrudka  

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  Just to let you know, that best result I got was when I changed the DHT library (sparkfun) for the one with this sketch. with this sketch. Thank toy for your time. PH
• 

  Problems with RDIFLock (Antenna)
  • t1m0  

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  works! thanks!
• 

  LM393 remove LEDS
  • derksuh  

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  If you are using the analog output you might be able to remove the lm393 and the pcb it is mounted on entirely. Like I did on my plant monitoring as described in https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/2147/office-plant-monitoring/21
• 

  Controlling an inductive AC load
  • dbemowsk  

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  @awi I have one of the X10 switches that I dismantled the other day and the issue with trying to use that is that there is so much circuitry for the X10 portion of the thing that without having a schematic, I wouldn't know exactly what to disconnect to only leave the triac motor control circuit. Also where and how to connect in my galvanic isolation circuit.
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  Wireing the Radio?
  • cattoo  

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  Ok, then ill just start to read.
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  Newbie needs help
  • masterkenobi  

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  @masterkenobi said: There is also another thing concern me. What if my neighbor also into Mysensors? Will he be able to view all the data from my sensors? How do I secure the nodes? Take a look at https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/1021/security-introducing-signing-support-to-mysensors
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  Confused by logic level converters
  • Chester  

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  @jbjalling Perfect, thank you so much for the confirmation! Time to get ordering
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  RFID-RC522 problem connecting via RJ45 cable
  • Michel - It  

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  Grounding...
  • moskovskiy82  

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  Yes. The two power supplies need a common reference, so the grounds need to be connected. BR Jonas
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  Ultrasonic Transducer for Fluid Flow Meter
  • A Former User  

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  @Brandon-Golshirazian search for 'ultrasonic flow meter' in ebay. Boozz
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  AC Routing Trace Width and Clearance
  vac width trace spacing • • Samuel235  

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  Does anyone have any opinions of voltages and current through screw terminals? I'm looking around for terminals for AC power, i can get some 3.5mm pitch that handle >250VAC and then other 3.5mm will only handle >100VAC. I know there is different grades of plastic and metal, but can there seriously be that much difference or is this an instance of the manufacturer just covering their backs and i would be fine to use any terminal?
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  Smallest possible GW
  • alexsh1  

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  @alexsh1 Alrighty, thank you for that information. May be worth a look at for myself
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  Different atsha204a
  • LastSamurai  

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  hi. mysensors is compatible with sot version only for the moment. other package not yet if I'm right. sot version isn't i2c sot version use one pin only.
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  Dimmer modules that work on 120v/15a or 20a circuits?
  • signal15  

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  42v LED dimmer
  • the cosmic gate  

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  @the-cosmic-gate That should be a leading edge (Triac based, relatively cheap) or trailing edge (expensive) dimmer I suppose. a leading edge dimmer is discussed in this thread: https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/3953/4-channel-ac-dimer/2 Is there anyone here that combined a mysensors-sketch with a trailing edge dimmer? BR, Boozz
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  How to use DistanceSensor?
  • 172pilot  

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  New Raspberry Pi to NRF24l01+ Shield
  • MikeF  

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  @ceech thanks for the board - arrived via eBay today! Looking forward to tinkering!
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  Is there a dipole version of NRF24L01+?
  • NeverDie  

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  Anyone besides me looking into long-range Bluetooth for their wireless nodes?
  • NeverDie  

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  Eval boards with the extended range module already installed are available now for $20: http://www.cypress.com/documentation/development-kitsboards/cyble-224110-eval-ez-ble-psoc-xtxr-evaluation-board
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  Radios -Again
  • xydix  

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  Electric Gate contoller
  • shabba  

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  DYP-ME003 on a coin cell / 2xaa battery
  • LastSamurai  

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  Hi. I have not so much experience with pir modules. I use an homemade pir, which works well and I am doing my own software for programmable features like nb of pulses for validating a trigger, blindtime etc..And it's a coincell board without any regulator, so.. But in your case, what I would do..(and it's easier with a scope !), is: LC filter, and you could add one capa before inductor too in some case, and maybe in this case, it's better to place the LC filter near the chip you want to clean (like radio or your pir module for instance). This is when you have enough room. But when you have not enough room, so it's easier to place the LC filter just after the booster, for all the board. use a good PSRR etc LDO for you PIR module. I think if you power directly the PIR module from the booster, without LDO that could be difficult..because of the mV PIR variation of analog part. Having a good ldo could help to smooth a bit too.. adding multiple, different small capa value near your pir module, for smoothing some frequencies...And you could add a 100u to absorb some voltage fluctuations too. So, you have to choose values for capa vs frequencies you want to filter. And another thing too, you need to choose the right inductor, they are not all equal..(datasheets curves and frequencies you want to filter ...) I hope this helps a bit
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  Fuses to protect attached relays on board?
  relay fuse general lighting • • Samuel235  

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  Or even this MOSFET and it would seem this is the datasheet after a quick google.
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  Some Questions with gardening node (sensor/accurator)
  • dakky  

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  Fuse clips
  fuse fuse holder fuse clips • • Samuel235  

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  Status of pins during bootloader
  • Anduril  

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  @Yveaux thats what I was thinking about. Thanks for confirming.