Hardware

@Jason-Brunk I would recommend going for something newer like this: https://github.com/hallard/WeMos-RFM69 there is a lora version if you want to be too innovative: (currently not working with MySensors) https://github.com/hallard/WeMos-Lora The GWs above are very small - you can choose a custom enclosure easily. PS My recommendation would be RFM69 rather than NRF24

@drock1985 I know, RFM95 is even more expensive!

@Shivanand-Chanderbally I recently finished a node using the acs712 and found it to be very sensitive to nearby magnetic fields. It is best to have it as far away from these as you can.

@the-cosmic-gate There are so many manufacturers! Generally, as a rule of thumb the cheaper you pay for the screen the more difficult it is to get it working. Besides, anything to do with Arduino does require some DIY skills :-) Above I recommended Itead Studio screen, but it does cost more though works out of the box.

Any update on this one? Chinese new year is over now...

@y4CdW42Ol8 those calls are to the MySensors library . You are in the MySensors forum :-D Starting at https://www.mysensors.org/about/ is the best way to learn about MySensors. The receive sketch is called a gateway. Read the links I posted for you in https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/4093/what-does-a-gateway-do/1 to learn about gateways.

Get a sensor that supports lower voltages or get a step-up. Earlier discussions on the same topic: https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/3801/witch-temp-hum-sensor-is-best-to-use-for-battery-powered-sensors/ https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/3203/cheap-good-boost-converter-and-good-temperature-sensors/ https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/2027/test-of-step-up-modules-sparkfun-pololu-china-module-any-other/ https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/444/battery-powered-motion-sensor https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/171/efficiency-of-voltage-boosters

@AWI thank you - yes I have Domoticz

@y4CdW42Ol8 IRQ is not used by MySensors library

@Sparkman said: That is true, but it does make for a clean install and is also UL approved. Yes to both of those. The UL Approved portion was in the back of mind in regards to this project already. I wish I had an unlimited amount of funds!

I also asked in another post about something like this... but I want the radio so read/sence if a device is close by (Wifi and Bluetooth for example) it seems to be the other way around... this sends and not read. Any tips for this would also be appreciated.

@mfalkvidd said: Yes you can use analog input as digital input if you like (but not as output). A5, A6 and A7 don't have internal pullups though so you might need to solder external pullups. EDIT: The distance sensor doesn't need pullups so you don't need to add any in this case. However, the TRIG signal to the HC-SR04 needs to be an output pin so you can't move that. You can move the moisture sensors, if you add external pullups (or buy sensors with built-in pullups). Ok sounds reasonable. Have to read more about that pullup/pulldown thing ;) There is no way you can power everything through the voltage regulator on the Pro Mini. The absolute maximum total power rating for the Pro Mini is 150mA when powering through raw. Also note that most Arduino clones do not survive 12V raw input, and that the nrf radio needs approximately 3.3V. Ok I'll use one LM2596 in order to power all components directly + another 5V=>3V voltage regulator for the radio. This should work :D The relays are controlled by the output pins on the Arduino. The relays control power (12V in your case) that is coming from elsewhere. Relays often consume quite a lot of power (from the Arduino) when switching so make sure you add capacitors. You could also consider using FETs instead of relays. We've seen many threads on relay problems that were caused by power issues. Is that a problem too, when powering the relay directly from the LM2596? Otherwise i have to learn something about FETs :) Probably :) But the best way to learn is to try :) So true :D the problem is the "lost" time when waiting for another china package :package: An alternative to getting 8 pumps is to get 1 pump and 8 valves. That will probably be cheaper. Hmm I did not find any cheap valves. One of the pumps is about $6. And valves cause one problem imho: they need pressure in order to work and this requires to activate the pump some seconds bevor triggering the valve => increased complexity @dbemowsk said: Are you aware of this project that is in the build section of the site? https://www.mysensors.org/build/irrigation I saw this one, but it's more a "standalone" solution imho. quite complex. I wanted just a stupid "tell me the moisture values and switch a relay"-solution ;) @rest: hmm interesting. I will read something about these components, although I'm a little bit afraid of the required code changes :P

hi! Start here: https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/2437/step-by-step-procedure-to-connect-the-nrf24l01-to-the-gpio-pins-and-use-the-raspberry-as-a-serial-gateway

There is a forum thread you can start with: https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/3671/ac-dc-double-solid-state-relay-module The main problems with all how i see it ism safety and reliability! https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/1607/safe-in-wall-ac-to-dc-transformers Here is some other projects: https://www.openhardware.io/view/83/Smart-Light-Switch-220v https://www.openhardware.io/view/13/In-Wall-ACDC-Pcb-for-MySensors https://www.openhardware.io/view/101/Wall-Socket-Insertable-Node https://www.openhardware.io/view/48/Homini-In-Wall-Battery-Powered-Light-Switch-Module (will soon be a new project with relay)

I found that thread late last night. I read through the WHOLE thing before going to bed. I have my evening plans set for tonight. I don't have any sensors really in use now, it's just more for testing. So I am all over this!!