Hardware

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  Reporting solar export power.
  arduino • 1 Jun 2020, 11:38 • terryrow   20 Jun 2020, 14:58

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  20 Jun 2020, 14:58

  I would think that the "heavy lifting" of regulating the actual output power of the charger would be a function of the charge controller itself? Maybe you could tie into / control that somehow with your own microcontroller as brain / interface? Maybe they expose some API, serial, or other method of interfacing with their hardware? What are/were you using for charge controller? Also, what is "CT" in this context? I have read a bit here and there about solar (and related moving around and controlling of power, eg. batteries, charge controllers, etc...), as it is something I plan on doing "eventually" although I have no direct experience as of yet. So I will be following this thread with interest.
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  Ethernet Gateway - how reliable is it? which problems and how to avoid?
  19 Jun 2020, 15:28 • pw44   19 Jun 2020, 16:54

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  19 Jun 2020, 16:54

  I think you should stop spamming the same topic in a bunch of different threads. In fact, I think mods should merge and/or delete all these secondary threads, and possibly even warn.
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  NRF NANO
  16 Jun 2020, 21:27 • mntlvr   18 Jun 2020, 13:40

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  18 Jun 2020, 13:40

  Hello @mntlvr, yes it has been use, see for example here : https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/10327/rf-nano-nano-nrf24-for-just-3-50-on-aliexpress
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  Voltage Divider to measure battery charge
  13 Jun 2020, 21:17 • AdamAnt   14 Jun 2020, 20:01

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  14 Jun 2020, 20:01

  @AdamAnt You could replace the 200K with a 270K preset so that you can adjust it to give the maximum resolution. Remember that you are not measureing voltage with this set up, but an analog 'value' that is 'roughly' proportional to the voltage applied.
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  Best options for a low current display for a battery operated node?
  16 May 2018, 20:42 • NeverDie   8 Jun 2020, 14:47

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  8 Jun 2020, 14:47

  @matheus-galvao said in Best options for a low current display for a battery operated node?: GYTN-2490 Hello, I didn't do much for this one, I just used an existing PCF8576 arduino library. Are you using this exact same LCD driver, or another one ? They are not very difficult to make libraries for, I made a library for PCA9553 (much lower power) and it was easy, the annoying part is sometimes to convert the digits to "raw" data sent to the LCD driver when LCD driver designers and lcd manufacturer didn't have the same idea for segment mapping
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  Air quality sensors
  31 May 2020, 21:10 • Avamander   3 Jun 2020, 22:22

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  3 Jun 2020, 22:22

  The plantower devices were nice and small. But in the end I settled on the SDS011 simply because it can be connected to without soldering. In my use case - making it accessible to beginners - that was the most important factor. I've also found that "how precise is it" doesn't matter all that much. In a home you just want an indication. After a while you just start to think in about 5 levels, ranging from "bad" to ''great". These cheap devices aren't precise enough to use in situations where you would care about precision, such as official measurements. So my recommendation is to forget about this.
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  RFM69/95 won't run
  22 Mar 2020, 09:08 • cYnd   3 Jun 2020, 12:00

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  3 Jun 2020, 12:00

  FINALLY! My replacement arrived and I soldered it to my pro mini. This time I used a level converter for powering it directly from VCC and not the arduino's VCC. First no luck, but after switching MISO and MOSI it finally worked: LED Flash Checking LoRa Device LoRa Device Present LoRa device version 0x12 LoRa Registers Reg 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 A B C D E F 0x00 00 09 1A 0B 00 52 6C AA 99 4F 09 2B 20 08 02 0A 0x10 FF 70 15 0B 28 0C 12 47 32 3E 00 00 00 00 00 40 0x20 00 00 00 00 05 00 03 93 55 55 55 55 55 55 55 55 0x30 90 40 40 00 00 0F 00 00 00 F5 20 82 EF 02 80 40 0x40 00 00 12 24 2D 00 03 00 04 23 00 09 05 84 32 2B 0x50 14 00 00 11 00 00 00 0F E0 00 0C F0 07 00 5C 78 0x60 00 19 0C 4B CC 0E 7F 20 04 47 AF 3F 7A 00 3B 0B 0x70 D0 01 10 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 Current frequency 434.666MHz Write new frequency 434.400MHz Changed frequency 434.400MHz Seems like the diagram of the shop where I bought the arduino is switched. However I can now try to read the sensor and send the data via LoRa! Awesome! One final question (not related to this issue but maybe you can still answer that in this topic ) : I got a RXB6 runnign to read a radio rain sensor at 433MHz. Is this received able to recive also LoRa signals or do I need a dedicated LoRa chip to receive LoRa radio signals?
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  [Solved] Arduino Nanos don't work as nodes
  28 May 2020, 20:51 • Avamander   1 Jun 2020, 08:34

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  1 Jun 2020, 08:34

  This thread reads like an Agathie Christie novel. Well done on finding it!
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  RFM95 + Sensebender Gateway
  22 May 2020, 06:25 • niclas   26 May 2020, 20:11

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  26 May 2020, 20:11

  Nice work @niclas Good question about the differences. https://lowpowerlab.com/forum/rf-range-antennas-rfm69-library/rfm69-hoperf-are-they-semtech-clones-or-not/ has some interesting information.
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  AC-DC at own
  14 Jul 2018, 10:03 • axillent   21 May 2020, 18:02

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  21 May 2020, 18:02

  @axillent can you post the pcb file of this project????
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  Ds18b20/ nodemcu fluctuations in temp
  temperature ds18b20 node esp82 • 18 May 2020, 06:19 • mjdula   20 May 2020, 23:51

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  20 May 2020, 23:51

  @mjdula The 85 reading is actually an error message used by the ds18b20 to indicate it has not had time to complete the processing of the reading. Most commonly this is only seen when the node first boots up and can be ignored or fixed by adding a small delay. You will find a lot of information on this if you do a google search. I have never experienced it myself but from other posts on the net it seems power supply problems and long cable runs to the sensor can also cause the error. Some have also had success by using a different resistor value. Note you only need one resistor fitted near your nodemcu not a resistor at each ds18b20. If the 85 reading is well outside your expected reading you could just filter out any readings over 84 as well.
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  Pool Sensor (analog)
  7 May 2020, 13:44 • netbus   18 May 2020, 10:59

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  18 May 2020, 10:59

  @Yveaux Yes, it's a pt1000 sensor. Is it possible to use the existing sensor on my solarcontroller and in parallel with an arduino or do I need an additional sensor?
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  Please check my pcb design for 24V LED Dimmer
  14 May 2020, 22:02 • Joerideman   17 May 2020, 22:00

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  17 May 2020, 22:00

  @adfx Thanks for checking. I read once a blog/page about the use of multiple spi devices. It explained about the use of pull up resistors on the enable pin of every device you have on this bus for this specific problem. Just to be sure when I was testing it I did not connect the nrf24. I added that resistor to this PCB. So far it's works with the MySbootloader and just burning the program with the USBASP. Even with the nrf connected. I really believe that it was the chip itself. But I still have them waiting for a better test environment.
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  W5100 Ethernet module PoE
  arduino ethernet w5100 poe • 10 Aug 2015, 10:10 • SebDominguez   17 May 2020, 17:48

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  17 May 2020, 17:48

  Hi, sorry for the delay, I had just read your post and I could said "me too" But I solved the problem and it works for two years now. I explain my solution here, if the French don't afraid you. https://easydomoticz.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=6497 I resume, a 7.5volts power supply, a passive injector, and a spécial home-made cable to bypass the RJ45 socket. The 7.5 v go to Vin-Gnd of the Nano to produce 5v wich is returned to the W5100. QED. Rpx.
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  Unkown Touch switch PCB : How to make them push instead Toggle
  14 May 2020, 15:36 • helmuteke   15 May 2020, 03:07

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  15 May 2020, 03:07

  @helmuteke said in Unkown Touch switch PCB : How to make them push instead Toggle: ATMHK218 From google this looks like a serial eeprom. For the other chip if it has no writing then it's impossible to help, especially when the picture is in such low resolution. My guess is the HTTM sensors have no resistance soldered so there is no way to change it unless you remove them, add the resistance and put them back...
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  sending an image without wifi / envoi d'une image hors wifi
  4 May 2020, 11:34 • dimi59   12 May 2020, 14:44

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  12 May 2020, 14:44

  @rvendrame Apart from the distance question I'm completely with you. Nevertheless I'll try to get that working It's already coded, so why not test it out? If it's not working or not used by anyone: no problem. I just wanted to avoid setting some kind of standard that might be somehow wrong.
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  BT832 in hosted mode with I2C
  11 May 2020, 14:21 • murali   11 May 2020, 14:21

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  Which wireless transport are available for mesh network ?
  28 Feb 2020, 06:36 • antlomb   9 May 2020, 22:46

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  9 May 2020, 22:46

  Additional outdoor wireless nodes are located and mounted on the train stations.
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  TV on/off monitor using TV USB port
  24 Apr 2020, 07:59 • tomvanderputte   9 May 2020, 22:44

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  9 May 2020, 22:44

  Sometimes though, you may experience problems if your monitor or TV screen is set to disable USB power during standby. Monitors and TVs can often switch to standby very quickly if they don’t find an active source of content, and devices can often not turn on without power, causing a bit of a chicken and egg scenario. Add to this the fact that your device may be at the back of your monitor or TV in a spot that is hard to reach and you may find yourself in quite a frustrating scenario quite quickly.
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  fody weather station, wind sensor
  weather wind winddirection gust hyt221 windspeed fody hyt ht01d weather station • 12 Apr 2017, 16:15 • flopp   5 May 2020, 12:21

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  5 May 2020, 12:21

  Hello, I have followed your build and are about to to a similar reverse engineering of a weather station but my winddirection look different and Ineed some input on how I can fix it. On my there are 8 IR leds on the perimiter and 4 IR sensitiv transistors in the middle. The outer leds are wired 2 and 2 with all the odds having common GND and all the even have common GND. So i have problem on how to turn the led on 1 by 1. Any inputs?
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  RPI Gateway Error
  gateway • 25 Mar 2020, 11:34 • hakha4   4 May 2020, 06:59

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  4 May 2020, 06:59

  Hi! Thank's for info. I had almost given up and now using an ESP GW instead but I'll give your setup a try
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  SCT013 50A - Low current
  28 Apr 2020, 21:10 • carlos sampaio   1 May 2020, 01:39

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  1 May 2020, 01:39

  @Yveaux thanks, I have ACS712 for 5 and 30A but it has 66mV/A, would be complicated to use it with arduino uno I will try to use a ct 5A + opamp like ina122 and try to read at least 100mA - 2.5A, after that I will read using the SCT model.
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  Water Leak Detection
  6 Aug 2015, 19:44 • David Noren   27 Apr 2020, 20:08

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  27 Apr 2020, 20:08

  @NeverDie Most all normal water meters use magnetic drives to isolate the register from the main flow (even the wet registers). Common water meters are single or multi-jet Class A or B to actuate the magnetic disc but meter orientation alters accuracy. The positive displacement/piston variety simply rotates volumetrically so orientation does not matter. There are also ultrasonic types so again no contact, very accurate but crazy expensive. The critical point is the K factor of the factory built meter, K=1 means 1 litre output. This is not something you can alter, eg My outdoors Zenith is a multijet with K=500, the sensor is about 50 euro, but a 5c reed fits just fine. Useless at 500 litre/pulse but it illustrates the point it's how the meter is built. @OliverDog the V200 I have has a mosfet type sensor (triggered by an inductor?) rather than a reed, normally very expensive, but I got lucky with one supplier, from memory the meter and sensor were less than 100 quid, the battery for the sensor lasts maybe 10 years. If it dies I'll install a V100. Modern versions such as the V200H are usually RF or cable to a specialist receiver but it starts getting complicated with proprietary protocols as they're really designed for the water service industry, although some wizzes have hacked various models. May be worth a google as I'm out of touch these days.. It may be an old Class D design, but the V100 I nearly bought instead has a plugged socket in which the reed is inserted into the meter body. The Elster official reed is expensive but you can slip a normal reed in with a bit of preparation, it works fine as did one for a friend. Pretty sure the V100 is now made in Malaysia by the ex-director or similar of Elster, demand in Europe etc for the drive-by reading capability and Class D has tilted the market. No idea whether the Chinese market has clones or they're made properly. @NeverDie "A patent pending Flume sensor"... Flumes are restrictors for open channel flow measurement been around for over a century or more, a pipe version is called a Dall Tube, see Bernoulli's equation. Sounds like marketing hype, but it's just mag measurement sent to an app. A lot of folks have tried sensing magnetic fields or reading part of the register, think some on here had some success with photo sensors, so plenty of options...
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  Multiple radios in 1 gateway
  27 Apr 2020, 06:46 • idanronen   27 Apr 2020, 08:38

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  27 Apr 2020, 08:38

  @mfalkvidd you're right, there's a lot of 2.4ghz pollution from every device these days, no avoiding that, but specifically having 2 transmitters so close to each other has never been a pleasant experience for me. I don't think I've read anything about serial gateway not working on esp8266, it's more the lack of any mention of it anywhere. I mean logically there's no reason why it wouldn't be prevalent, as esp8266 like the D1 Mini costs the same as a nano, is faster with more memory, uses micro usb, no real downside. Plus, if you free up the wireless module, you can even use the esp-now protocol instead of connecting a nrf24 (which unfortunately hasn't been implemented in mysensors yet)
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  Newbie question about Sending sensor data with an nRF52832 module to my sensors
  gateway • 12 Apr 2020, 04:55 • tBS   26 Apr 2020, 15:57

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  @tBS You should try the low power sketches by @NeverDie or @berkseo - They are available on openhardware.io
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  Is it worth it adding a reset circuit to MySensors nodes?
  20 Apr 2020, 20:37 • Encrypt   26 Apr 2020, 08:54

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  @bjacobse Thank you - I learn something new! I have WDT enabled on one of the RF gateways and still it crashes (ir never sleeps as it is a GW node). I am using the stock bootloader (chinese clone uno) so I wonder if this is the issue. I will try and upload the optiboot to that GW node and see if it helps. I also run a script in mycontroller to reboot the GW node if it is down, but that isn't working as I expected either..... Luckily I have plenty of time at home now, unluckily I have a lot of domestic chores and support a vulnerable person living at another address, so time for mysensors is still limited, at least for now.
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  NRF24L01 antenna needs
  24 Apr 2020, 13:32 • mrhutchinsonmn   25 Apr 2020, 17:35

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  25 Apr 2020, 17:35

  @mrhutchinsonmn Just replace it. It has the same 8-pin interface as the other ones. Please be aware that the E01-ML01DP5 aren't magical bullets either. They allowed me to reduce the amount of repeaters in our house from one on every floor to one on every second floor (steel reinforced concrete ceilings), but the advertised 2500m range is unrealistic in real world scenarios. Their biggest plus for me are the improved reliability and stability they provide compared to cheap amplified modules, especially at high PA levels. BTW - I just saw that they are selling this module for 2,76 EUR / 2.92 USD in one of their other stores in the upcoming sale event, starting on monday: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33013542366.html
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  RS-232 in a MySensors RS485 network for GSM/SMS modem
  gsm rs232 rs485 serial • 20 Apr 2020, 20:00 • dzjr   20 Apr 2020, 20:00

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  Dallas DS18B20 temperate sensor
  2 Apr 2020, 19:29 • Jenkins   15 Apr 2020, 06:44

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  15 Apr 2020, 06:44

  @mfalkvidd thank you for all your help
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  RS-485 to an wireless Gateway
  7 Apr 2020, 20:23 • Tmaster   8 Apr 2020, 17:53

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  @mfalkvidd said in RS-485 to an wireless Gateway: Most controllers, including Domoticz, supports multiple gateways. I have 2 gateways on my Domoticz. That's what i wasn't sure. Right now i already have a zwave gw(module) hoked to raspberry pins,that controls all windows shutters and an Usb GW (mysensors serial gw) that controls 4 temperature sensors, irrigation valcs from my garden ,solar water panel relay , outdoor lights etc...all on rfm69W and C "transport" 868mhz, but i will consider if i build a second arduino usb GW or i keep the wireless to the gate. So if i see the zwave module like an GW i already have 2 as well The true it's that the gate is already "mysensor-rized" with wireless but i keep preferring wired connection for outdoor and once i'm burying the cables for power and doorbell ,maybe i add an Cat6 cable for RS-485 connection.
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  Is soldering castellated pads on THT pads feasible?
  25 Mar 2020, 08:29 • Joost   7 Apr 2020, 12:55

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  7 Apr 2020, 12:55

  @Joost Added two photos to the project page. KiCAD/rendering still to follow.
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  Automatic stairs led lighting arduino shield
  23 Aug 2017, 14:22 • Chen Boly   5 Apr 2020, 15:09

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  5 Apr 2020, 15:09

  I like the lighting effect on the stairs too. It looks great.
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  Anyone tried the stc15l204? It appears to be an inexpensive integrated mcu + NRF24L01+
  24 Mar 2020, 20:15 • NeverDie   30 Mar 2020, 13:12

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  It's not a perfect pin-out match. You should definitely check out this thread: https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/10327/rf-nano-nano-nrf24-for-just-3-50-on-aliexpress/1 But you're right, it's great for beginners. That's why it forms the basis of the Candle project.
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  This topic is deleted!
  24 Mar 2020, 09:40 • Joost   24 Mar 2020, 09:40

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  Security OTA Sketch
  17 Mar 2020, 11:49 • Anduril   18 Mar 2020, 13:47

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  18 Mar 2020, 13:47

  @Anduril Well, its all opensource, so you are free to do whatever you want. Just remember that if you are starting to alter the behaviour and use of the security infrastructure, you could potentially compromise it for yourself and those that use your code.
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  Novice requesting PCB review and advice for a window / door sensor
  nrf24l01+ pcb atmega328p smd pcb layout • 22 Nov 2018, 12:04 • BearWithBeard   7 Mar 2020, 10:59

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  7 Mar 2020, 10:59

  No, I didn't seriously consider it. I have a minimal programming circuit with ZIF-sockets to program DIPs, but those are easily removed from a circuit (assuming they are put into sockets and not soldered) in case they need to be reproprammed . Doing this with a TQFP seems like a one-way road, so I think a way for in-circuit programming should be provided regardless. I mean, I didn't have to reprogram my first revision nodes so far, but I might want to add signing support later on or upgrade to MySensors 2.4 or 3.0 for some reason, so it should definitely be possible, but I'm not too worried, if the programming process is a little cumbersome, if the SOICbite experiment doesn't work out.
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  BT832XE how activate RX PA
  3 Mar 2020, 07:24 • Marko LORA   3 Mar 2020, 07:24

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  What happened to ceech?
  23 Feb 2020, 19:57 • alexsh1   24 Feb 2020, 22:35

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  24 Feb 2020, 22:35

  @mfalkvidd said in What happened to ceech?: I don't know, but according to https://forum.mysensors.org/user/ceech last time online in this forum was September 2017. His eBay shop is empty. Not a good sign...
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  How to power my sensors in a rental?
  23 Feb 2020, 12:32 • mirodin   24 Feb 2020, 12:28

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  @mirodin said in How to power my sensors in a rental?: using normally closed reed switches You can "convert" those by reverting the orientation of the magnet on your door, then adding another magnet (weaker or further away) inside the node enclosure to keep the reed switch closed when you open the door. When the door is closed the reversed magnet on the door will open the reed switch. To do even better you can use : reed switches with 3 leads that work as both normally opened and normally closed switches, and wire them to the 2 interrupt pins. I used that on my first nodes and managed to get reeeeaaaally long battery life on a simple CR2032. When door status changes the node is woken up then you set pin low and current could run only a very short time, you send the message with new status then you activate the other interrupt pin and go back to sleep https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33028519094.html if you're not afraid with SMD there are some ultra low power hall switches, using less than 1uA of current like the DRV5032.
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  Temperature sensor housing DS18B20
  18 Feb 2020, 20:31 • zboblamont   18 Feb 2020, 20:31

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  Yet another way to get longer battery life for the nRF24L01+
  16 Feb 2020, 20:57 • NeverDie   16 Feb 2020, 20:57

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  IoT for retail & sensors
  28 Jan 2020, 17:48 • jones87   16 Feb 2020, 17:51

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  16 Feb 2020, 17:51

  I also suggest using MP3 shields and modules with jack output.
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  ¿Livolo and Wifi?
  13 Feb 2020, 12:58 • Capi   13 Feb 2020, 12:58

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  antenna diversity
  12 Feb 2020, 00:46 • NeverDie   12 Feb 2020, 00:46

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  Why are the measured values so different? Are my humidity sensors faulty?
  17 Dec 2018, 22:18 • benhub   6 Feb 2020, 20:06

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  @benhub do you have the code the links seem dead? Ive been trying to get 2 temp/hum sensors (DHT22) working in domoticz for quite a while now with no luck. The temp/hum data in domotcz keeps swapping around from one sensor to the other and i cant work out why.
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  ESP32 485
  gateway • 4 Feb 2020, 17:29 • bocmau   4 Feb 2020, 17:29

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  Looking for very simple rocker switch
  25 Sept 2019, 22:40 • alowhum   24 Jan 2020, 18:51

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  24 Jan 2020, 18:51

  @Nca78 said in Looking for very simple rocker switch: So huge that the pins are in fact way too big (0.8*1.2mm section) to fit on a breadboard or in a Dupont connector Hahaha, that's hilarious Thanks for trying though, really appreciate it!
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  STM32 with SX126x IP STMicro Announces World's First Die-Integrated LoRa System-on-Chip
  17 Jan 2020, 06:54 • lesockz   17 Jan 2020, 06:54

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  Radio compatibility question
  14 Jan 2020, 07:46 • garfius   16 Jan 2020, 10:11

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  16 Jan 2020, 10:11

  @nagelc Thaaaanks! Your answer is valuable to anyone.
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  MySensors shield and RGBW Controller
  28 Aug 2015, 22:58 • LastSamurai   15 Jan 2020, 19:38

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  15 Jan 2020, 19:38

  @LastSamurai, Very nice project you have here! Thank you for taking the time to post/share your work! At first I thought it might be exactly what I was looking for, but reading through everything now I am not so sure. I have been studying various ways (Wi-Fi, 433/315 Mhz RF, MySensors) to implement controlling RGB lights and I initially thought Wi-Fi (while readily available, easy, and cheap) might be too "slow" in response time, which got me thinking to use MySensors (with NRF24) instead, which led me to this thread (among others). Something concerned me though, I see in your GitHub for this project you stated: Project frozen/final - This project is done from my side. It has been working for years but I switched to another solution so I won't update this anymore. and on your OpenHardware page: Update2: They have been running for about 2 years now mostly without problems. The only disadvantage is that my Mysensors network overall is quite "slow" (~1s reaction time). I am currently experimenting with Wifi RGBWW controllers (H801) so there wont be to many more updates to this project Which made me want to ask you what you are using now? It seems to me that those MagicHome type Wi-Fi (or RF) RGB controllers would be pretty hard to beat price wise, I don't think I could implement similar functionality (including packaging, etc.) for the same amount of money, and that's before even counting my time. Also I am still struggling with reliability of my MySensors network in general, but I hope to be able to still solve this as it seems that many others have been able to (but that is a different subject altogether).
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  Looking for a decibel sensor
  13 Jan 2020, 12:16 • secantscope   14 Jan 2020, 17:01

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  @secantscope I understand - It is a few years since I looked into this and then the only conclusion I could make was to take a meter and interface with usb. It would be more work and my needs case didn't warrant that at the time. I am sorry I could not be of more help in this, but it just seems to be the way things have been for a while. Maybe in the future things will change. As @nagelc suggested a lesser sensor could be used and you could calibrate it yourself. Seems little other options really. (Now I said that you just wait for a killer posting with just the thing you want linked) !!!
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  Serious hardware issues with GY-521 modules
  gy-521 mpu6050 gy521 • 12 Jan 2020, 03:47 • Sergio1234   12 Jan 2020, 19:40

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  12 Jan 2020, 19:40

  Thanks a lot for sharing your experience I had reached a similar conclusion I tried to put in the oven the modules that failed, but only a few were "fixed" I have already successfully used another type of modules mounted in China at a lower price than the individual components, and I assumed that they could reach that price because they manufactured millions of modules But in the case of the GY-521 it seems to be of very poor quality, it struck me that I did not find any comments on forums about these bad modules I am evaluating redoing my PCB to directly mount the original MPU6050 Thanks again for your help
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  Incorrect lighting of ws2811b led strips. Wemos D1 Arduino controlled
  arduino led strip wemos d1 mini ws2811b • 11 Jan 2020, 18:34 • Beeblebrox666   12 Jan 2020, 16:18

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  @Beeblebrox666 you can use them just like any other strip, with the limitation that not all leds can be controlled individually.
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  This topic is deleted!
  9 Jan 2020, 19:47 • olka   9 Jan 2020, 19:47

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  Laundry sensors
  6 Jan 2020, 17:00 • tbowmo   8 Jan 2020, 11:24

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  @tbowmo said in Laundry sensors: Just need to make something durable so that the sensor isn't destroyed if someone decides to overfill the basket, and force the drawer in. You just need to put it recessed inside an enclosure, it doesn't need a very wide aperture. For using above the table except if you have a low ceiling it won't do the job properly, in theory it's up to 2m but with daylight I couldn't detect non-reflective things further than 1m. If you have a relatively dark room you can measure further but it must be dark with a very reflective surface to really reach the claimed 2m. There's a VL53L1X with twice the range that is more expensive (close to 10$ with shipping it seems) and that will likely use way more power. I've never tried it, but I think I will soon as I really want to buy one now
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  Ultrasonic MEMS Sensor
  6 Jan 2020, 05:08 • zingpow   6 Jan 2020, 05:08

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  NRF24 works better indoor at 2Mbps
  15 Dec 2019, 16:49 • stef   5 Jan 2020, 16:29

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  @ashokgowtham No, there is no available parameters like RSSI in NRF24. I've just done repeating tests like opening/closing a switch with ack enable in the same conditions for the different throughputs. And after three weeks of use, i can confirm that I've no errors at all at 2Mbps. As i said this throughput improve transmissions with a lot of wifi interferences around.
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  Directivity of 5.8GHz Radar Sensor HFS-DC06H
  hfs-dc06h • 3 Jan 2020, 09:37 • emax   3 Jan 2020, 20:38

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  Radar doesn't go through metal, so aluminium foil should already do the trick
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  Power decoupling capacitor caused high current consumption
  2 Jan 2020, 11:33 • rozpruwacz   3 Jan 2020, 09:04

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  Switch to tantalum if you have space, much better for battery powered as a decoupling cap, low leakage. Choose a cap with voltage 3x to 4x of input voltage.
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  RS485 & ENC28J60 gateway
  30 Dec 2018, 16:24 • dzjr   22 Dec 2019, 20:31

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  I have now been running the gateway for more than half a year, and unfortunately the gateway runs regularly (about once every 2 weeks), so I am going to replace the gateway for a W5100 ethernet adapter. I used it in a second gateway, and this gateway is stable, I haven't had any crashes in about 4 months.
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  arduino mega nrf wiring
  23 Sept 2016, 19:21 • Michel Lallemand   20 Dec 2019, 20:51

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  @ayo I have this problem too, I can't get the radio modules work, the modules are nRF24L01 and I have tested with two arduino nano and two Arduino mega2560, but there is no result. The transmitter and receiver can not contact each other.
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  DIN Rail LEGO
  14 Jul 2018, 10:40 • axillent   17 Dec 2019, 10:16

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  17 Dec 2019, 10:16

  A really impressive project based with DIN interface. Do you also integrate in DIN format the system to put a mysensors controller as well such as a RPi , etc... ?
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  NRF24 init problem
  14 Dec 2019, 10:27 • raptorjr   14 Dec 2019, 19:39

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  @yveaux In my outdoor tempsensor everything was working for a while. And to avoid any problems with the initial setup I put a Nano on a breadboard with only the nrf24 connected. The first setup could have had some issues that I don’t know of, but strange that my test setup have the same problems? That should have avoided any hidden problems to test everything again in a new setup. And Arduino runs on 5V and nrf24 on 3.3V. Is there any other way to check the function of a nrf24? Maybe some other sketch that is not mysensor but able to verify the nrf24 works. I need to try to narrow down the problem because it seems strange that all 4 are broken.
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  Looking for "beginner" PCB for an Arduino Pro Mini paired with RFM95/96
  4 Dec 2019, 11:38 • Joost   10 Dec 2019, 14:19

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  @sweetpants Thanks for the positive feedback.
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  Wearable IMU, coin-cell, BLE or other RF
  6 Dec 2019, 23:12 • Tazling   7 Dec 2019, 10:52

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  https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/9305/mysensors-smart-watch might be of interest
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  Is the 32-bit ATSAML10 the ATMEGA328P killer that we've been waiting for?
  23 Aug 2018, 17:17 • NeverDie   24 Nov 2019, 11:37

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  @neverdie ASR6501 M0 with sx1262
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  Anyone here tried frequency hopping or forward error correction?
  22 Nov 2019, 05:38 • NeverDie   22 Nov 2019, 14:16

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  IIrc, in the USA, the frequency hopping would make the 27dbm legal. Otherwise not. In answer to your question, the higher priced module above claims to do fec. Although I think it's normally done at the phy layer, which they aren't . Maybe if you turned off crc and did promiscuous Rx....
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  This topic is deleted!
  16 Nov 2019, 08:58 • Spencer529   16 Nov 2019, 08:58

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  SX1278
  15 Nov 2019, 13:59 • plawrence14   15 Nov 2019, 13:59

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  18650s
  14 Nov 2019, 10:15 • arden   14 Nov 2019, 10:15

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  Arduino with voltage regulator
  8 Nov 2019, 00:33 • pihome   13 Nov 2019, 22:10

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  13 Nov 2019, 22:10

  thank you guys for explaining this, some times asking question is easy then googling around and finding contradicting answers.
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  Interesting new low power display available
  12 Nov 2019, 00:08 • NeverDie   12 Nov 2019, 09:56

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  @alowhum "WRITE LINE The minimum amount of data that can be written to the panel is one line. The actual number of data bytes written depends on the horizontal resolution of the panel itself. Therefore, a panel with a resolution of 400 × 240 will require a 400/8 = 50 bytes of data (plus overhead)" https://www.sharpsma.com/documents/1468207/1485747/Memory+LCD+Theory%2C+Programming%2C+and+Interfaces Remembering just 50 bytes for a 400 x 240 display doesn't sound particularly bad to me. I guess in the worst case, if you didn't want that burden in your MCU, you could dedicate a cheap, tiny slave MCU to mange it for you. For instance, maybe the main MCU just does println's, and the slave MCU handles the scrolling. I doubt it would be necessary, but one could fallback to that if push ever came to shove.
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  Wireless remote door lock - HW choices
  6 Nov 2019, 10:04 • idanronen   10 Nov 2019, 17:27

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  @idanronen yes, good point, but as @Anticimex mentioned, signing has to solve this issue.
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  Are the Arduino Pro Micro and RFM69 compatible?
  9 Nov 2019, 11:08 • keithJ   9 Nov 2019, 13:56

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  The atmega32u4 / pro micro is not very commonly used. https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/1790/pro-micro-hookup-and-code has some information, but it doesn't look very easy.
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  This topic is deleted!
  6 Nov 2019, 03:01 • MGHaff   6 Nov 2019, 03:01

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  edited: 4 diy dimmer module. should i make icsp or serial programming connections, both?
  6 Oct 2019, 14:37 • Joerideman   5 Nov 2019, 00:48

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  Thanks, I guess what i am trying to find out is how i get my sensors code to use the Adafruit_PWMServoDriver code to do the same as you than. I would like to control 5 sets of RGB strips by 5 separate V_RGB faders in domoticz using my sensors. But i cant figure out how to get mysensors to tell the PCA9685 chip how to controll the channels.
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  VEML6070 and VEML6075 UV sensors
  4 Jun 2017, 07:50 • alexsh1   2 Nov 2019, 12:47

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  This ino is working for me, it has the sleep function to save batteries. The Adafruit en the github/mysensors-> https://github.com/schizobovine/VEML6075 lib gives far to high index with my sensor. Only uv a and uv b declaration is not correct. Uv expect a index 0 till 11, domoticz controller passes a lower figure when it receives a number above 11.
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  Which are the *best* NRF24L01+ modules?
  15 Jul 2015, 15:22 • NeverDie   2 Nov 2019, 07:12

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  2 Nov 2019, 07:12

  @ncollins Thanks for pointing that out. I hadn't noticed before that EBYTE had a super upgraded implementation for the nRF24L01 that includes a TCXO, 27dbm Tx power, forward error correction, and frequency hopping: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32955792424.html?gps-id=7590465&scm=1007.14677.110221.0&scm_id=1007.14677.110221.0&scm-url=1007.14677.110221.0&pvid=404d40e9-e799-4d10-a4e1-d3ebe0d0df08&spm=a2g1y.promotion-20181111.promoteWysiwyg_502241756.1 The high sleep current would be a problem for battery operated nodes, but... seems interesting. At the very least it's an existence proof that we should be able to make the nRF24L01 do frequency hopping. A couple years ago on the lowpowerlab forum a number of us brainstormed how the RFM69 might be made to do frequency hopping, all through only atmega328p control (no extra hardware). IIRC, one guy went off and got it working. I presume the same general approach might be applicable to the nRF24L01 as well. At the root of it all is the ability to keep all the clocks in sync--and recalibrating them as necessary--so that they are all hopping in unison from one radio frequency to the next. Time Synchronization in a SmartMesh IP Network – 02:47— LinearTechnology
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  Air Quality Sensor
  air quality gas sensor calibration aqi hcho • 1 Jun 2014, 07:53 • epierre   31 Oct 2019, 12:27

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  31 Oct 2019, 12:27

  Hi, Working with tgs2602 , tgs 2620 and tgs2611 . I've read the replies from top to bottom but haven't understood how exactly i take data from the graph in datasheet and use it with power regression .
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  Need Suggestion
  14 Oct 2019, 18:35 • ToccaraKnauss   26 Oct 2019, 03:52

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  26 Oct 2019, 03:52

  We offer to give technical support, but in return "one day" we will ask you to return the favor and bake some chips for us.
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  A $6.61 "linux computer" that's about the size of an Arduino Pro Mini...
  15 Oct 2019, 22:45 • NeverDie   26 Oct 2019, 02:42

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  @neverdie said in A $6.61 "linux computer" that's about the size of an Arduino Pro Mini...: @nca78 At least in the past, the trouble I had with non-raspberry pi SBC's is that the linux software coverage for them was typically spotty/buggy. Has that improved at all, or is it still a big risk? Things have improved a lot the last few years, as long as you are careful in device selection. Don't become enamoured with hardware specs only. Some of these SBCs look great "on paper" but the software (driver) support is awful and they are stuck on some old kernel because the Chinese mfr. do not understand anything about what is Free Software and do not cooperate with the community in releasing documentation so we can write drivers, etc. Also look for good community support around the device in question. But typicaly this will be ~= the above (the more open the device, the more, better, and longer term support). If you do a little homework though, you will be alright. Some good resources to get started are Armbian (stick to their Supported Devices list, and you will have a good result), https://www.fsf.org/resources/hw/single-board-computers, and linux-sunxi, etc...
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  Adafruit Feather RFM9X LoRa Radios
  27 Sept 2019, 20:37 • Frank C   25 Oct 2019, 15:31

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  I've been busy the last day or so.. and I've now got the radios communicating! i've used the pin config given by adafruit: https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-feather-m0-radio-with-lora-radio-module/pinouts i've read about timeouts for these lora boards, so i've upped the values in the both sketches. https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/8813/any-success-story-on-lora-rfm95-module-and-mysensors #define RFM95_RETRY_TIMEOUT_MS (5000ul) #define MY_TRANSPORT_STATE_TIMEOUT_MS (20*1000ul) #define MY_RFM95_TX_TIMEOUT_MS (10000ul) I spaced the radios about a 1m apart and they now communicate i'm not sure if distance helped. Also with the above timeouts they aren't needed at such a short distance.
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  DS3231 RTC Module Pin out and operation confusion
  iot rtc ds3231 • 13 Oct 2019, 18:58 • Nafees Ahmed   20 Oct 2019, 15:25

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  You may want to check this out concerning the battery https://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/threads/real-time-clock-rtc-breakout-boards-warning.118173/
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  multiple hardware radio sensor network
  13 Oct 2019, 21:07 • Blom   14 Oct 2019, 11:26

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  @blom Hi, if you want to run two gateway on the raspberry GPIO, it is possible but it requires some configuration steps. You can find some info here in the forum or you can see here how I have done it for the d-diot board (check basic system and MySensors pages). I have used an RFM69 radio module in combination with Nrf24, but it should work also for an rfm95, if the wiring is the same.
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  BME280 on batt. sleep question
  9 Oct 2019, 08:23 • ilioSS   14 Oct 2019, 10:27

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  For the BME280, if you use the standard library and setup it uses "forced mode" with a 1sec sleep between samples. This uses very low power, a few mico amps.
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  Perfect battery Setup
  3 Oct 2019, 04:25 • Steven987   4 Oct 2019, 16:53

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  @steven987 I would argue the perfect battery setup is a single AA or AAA LiFePO4. No boost or regulator needed, nominal voltage: 3.2v Much safer than traditional LiPo/Li-ion Really easy to solar charge with TP5000 module and cheap solar cells Cons they're not super available a little pricier require a LiFePO4 charger still potential for fire with enough abuse Significantly less power density than NiMH or alkaline LiFeP04 Batteries https://www.ebay.com/itm/12X-SOSHINE-LIFEPO4-AAA-10440-BATTERY-280MAH-3-2V-FOR-WIRELESS-MOUSE-ALARM-TOY/333294469931?hash=item4d99e6032b:g:lk0AAOSw04ddULoH TP5000 Charging Module (I use for solar charger) https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32807030878.html Solar Cells https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32882323830.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.16.192a59c23u0hej
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  RF Nano from Keywish & MYSBootloader
  2 Oct 2019, 18:08 • torfinn   2 Oct 2019, 18:08

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  new 600Mhz Teensy 4.0 blows away *everything* on performance
  30 Sept 2019, 23:32 • NeverDie   1 Oct 2019, 07:32

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  @alowhum good point. Maybe not learning, but inference could be very useful.
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  creepage pcb distance with "different voltage level" on board
  27 Sept 2019, 13:06 • frank bor   27 Sept 2019, 13:06

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  How to get 5v pulse from a water meter
  25 Sept 2019, 15:56 • Pelle84   26 Sept 2019, 13:28

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  Just home so opened the Node case and glad to confirm despite ageing my recollection was accurate. This screenshot is common to the PR6/7 using CH2P if it is a undirectional flow. Looking at the circuit afresh I see no reason why the internal input pullup of IRQ should not work either through a drop resistor or possibly direct, since all it does is sink the signal, which the IRQ will pick up as Change/Falling/Low. From vague memory of the sketch, mine is triggered on LOW. 1 - Unlike Reed switches (my gas reed duration is ca 6 seconds) mosfets are fast, so the pulse duration is so short it will not register on your multimeter hence the perceived uninterrupted 5v. The PR7 spec you posted says 10ms duration... 2 - If envisaging a standalone radio node such as deployed here, you may be better going with a 3.3v PM to begin with rather than mess about with level converters later... Hope this helps...
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  Cannot flash atmega328 on new custom board
  26 May 2019, 13:05 • AdamAnt   25 Sept 2019, 01:18

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  25 Sept 2019, 01:18

  @scalz Thanks for the link to the 3.3v USBASP mod! i have been pulling my hair out trying to get bare 328p chips programmed using a generic ASP thank you!!!
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  BME 680 SPECIFIC INFORMATION SEARCHED
  bme680 • 16 Sept 2019, 17:34 • MaartenD   17 Sept 2019, 08:56

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  @maartend See for the link below. It's one of the first hits when searching on google with the words "BME680 raspberry pi": search terms link Reading a sensor on a raspberry pi 4B can't be much different from older raspberry versions I guess. The OS might have changed with the new version. Python hasn't.
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  EasyPCB and rfm69: Do I need a DC/DC step up booster
  3 Sept 2019, 08:09 • kiesel   6 Sept 2019, 07:38

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  @nagelc - correct, its possible to use without booster - but its harder depending on which sensor you use. If the sensors require minimum 3.3v it might be hard to do without booster, but there are several sensors managing down to 2v or so. The harder part of using EasyPCB without booster is that the BOD on atmega328 chip is normally set to 2.8v so when the battery goes below this the chip shuts down. So you have to edit the fuses and change BOD if you want to use it below 2.8v Everything mentioned here is described on openhardware.io - look for the section Battery without a step-up booster (advanced users)
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  Arduino BLE Sense
  27 Aug 2019, 11:31 • dk_iot   30 Aug 2019, 09:17

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  30 Aug 2019, 09:17

  @dk_iot MySensors is not BLE based. It uses a different proprietary rf mode. nagelc mentioned the previous nrf5 arduino core by sandeep, compatible with MySensors. But the new released arduino core you're talking, is based on mbed, it's not MySensors compatible (would need some work, afaik there is no plan for the moment).
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  Raspberry Pie 4, RFM69 - Noobie questions
  28 Aug 2019, 13:50 • kiesel   28 Aug 2019, 13:50

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  UART or I2C sensor version?
  22 Aug 2019, 13:23 • od1   23 Aug 2019, 15:55

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  @nca and @scalz Thanks! Very interesting, good points.
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  A small NRF24L01 chip comparison
  10 Sept 2018, 16:12 • alowhum   22 Aug 2019, 05:06

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  @yveaux Thank you
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  Seeking advice on RF set up
  15 Aug 2019, 16:12 • BlindPilot   15 Aug 2019, 16:12

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  [SOLVED] Poor battery life on door sensor
  22 Jul 2019, 11:15 • martinb   3 Aug 2019, 12:11

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  @frankvk Yes, I did a straight swap and now, after over a week, the battery level hasn’t dropped at all.
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  Would it be possible to run the MAX4466 with battery?
  31 Jul 2019, 20:28 • benhub   3 Aug 2019, 11:41

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  @benhub if you look at the datasheet of the MX4466 you can see that it's input current is a bit above 24µA which is ok for battery usage. But you have to include the current consumption of the microphone also, the one used only has a max value of 0.5mA @3V in the datasheet, so you can't make it a battery powered sensor with a very long battery life.
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  NRF52 nodes can work with gateway with RF24 module together?
  31 Jul 2019, 05:34 • chuqingsheng   2 Aug 2019, 19:33

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  Glad to hear it.
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  DYP-ME007YY v2.0 PWM
  29 Jul 2019, 04:22 • Ailson Siqueira   29 Jul 2019, 04:22

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  VEML6075 high sleep consumption
  23 Jul 2019, 16:06 • manutremo   28 Jul 2019, 15:10

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  @manutremo Activate a forced mode. I bet your sensor is in standby mode right now
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  Water meter : grey scale sensor
  10 Jul 2015, 05:38 • epierre   24 Jul 2019, 16:43

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  @epierre Plus presumably it can be universally applied whether a wet or dry register?
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  HMI Intelligent TFT screen - control via serial, $4
  20 Sept 2018, 07:52 • alowhum   22 Jul 2019, 18:16

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  @alowhum thank for the that info . i bought the wrong kinda screen . i will buy another type and try again
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  not working Ethernet Gateway (sensebender and/or nano gateway)
  19 Jan 2019, 16:23 • rafael156   19 Jul 2019, 18:00

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  19 Jul 2019, 18:00

  @rafael156 said in not working Ethernet Gateway (sensebender and/or nano gateway): To the Sensebender Board with W5100+NRF24: Sensebender can be flashed via Arduino IDE: Bootloader and Sketch Note versions (work): Arduino IDE 1.6.13 Arduino AVR 1.6.18 Arduino SAMD 1.6.12 MySensors SAMD 1.0.5 MySensors Lib 2.3.1 Thanks a lot ! ! ! I've lost 2 days trying to understand why it was not working anymore while uploading the exact same sketch as before ! Last release are not that stable finally.
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  In line humidity sensor
  sensor humidity • 18 Jul 2019, 16:13 • dsabol   18 Jul 2019, 16:13

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  Open Smart serial TFT LCD touch screen - example Arduino code
  6 Feb 2019, 15:41 • alowhum   18 Jul 2019, 08:55

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  18 Jul 2019, 08:55

  A small note on my experiences so far. I have settled on using this screen for most cases where I wanted to use a bigger screen for output. Creating small UX-es is awesome. What is also great is that I turn the backlight off after a little while, and then a touch turns it back on again. Similarly, using a touch to turn the screen on and off is nice for when you don't want the screen to shine it's light into the room all the time. I have also gotten it to work slightly faster by creating a better way of handling the serial data it sends. I've also learned that you can send longer strings to it all at once. You need to send the length of the string in the command. I haven't implemented this in my own code yet, but I recently learned about it by better reading the documentation. Something more worrying is that two of the six screens have stopped working. The screens turn on, but there is no serial communication. I believe this is caused by how I handled the screens, and creating small shorts on the back of the screen. My recommendation is to add some non-conductive tape to the entire back to avoid this. Make sure your other electronics don't accidentally touch its back. The resistive touch screen works well, but if there was a capacitive version of the screen I would probably switch to that. Finally, the screen can be separated from the PCB below. It's just attached with double sided tape.
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  Reflow Oven
  24 Nov 2014, 19:53 • RJ_Make   16 Jul 2019, 13:08

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  16 Jul 2019, 13:08

  I have a question. On the convection fan motor is the fan (pictured) for convection or is there another fan inclosed and the one pictured for cooling the motor? I like this build and plan on doing one.
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  Sensebender Gateway Dead
  11 Jul 2019, 20:13 • Nalith   11 Jul 2019, 20:13

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  Powering the nano with a battery
  14 Oct 2018, 16:02 • StKilda   1 Jul 2019, 11:04

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  You can power the Nano with 3 x AA (or AAA) alkaline cells (4.5v) connected to the 5v pin. The 4.5v will also be suitable Speed Test Scrabble Word Finder Solitaire for powering a servo. And the AA (or AAA) cells will last longer than the 9v PP3 style battery.
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  I need a hot air tool to make some details.
  27 Jun 2019, 07:47 • Laran   28 Jun 2019, 20:52

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  28 Jun 2019, 20:52

  your can use JEDEC solderprofile as guidance, as Pb-free (Leadfree) is standard nowadays and the max temperature is 260°C, which can be seen in below solder profile. and don't heat it too long... https://www.cypress.com/file/41231/download
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  d-diot: General purpose PCB for Arduino Nano with code
  20 Jun 2019, 20:42 • franz-unix   20 Jun 2019, 20:42

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  5v PSU - Booster Noise?
  5 Jun 2019, 05:02 • zboblamont   14 Jun 2019, 11:01

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  14 Jun 2019, 11:01

  @scalz @skywatch Thanks both for thoughts, but managed to solve the original problem when I stumbled across why the JSN-SR04-2.0 would not work at 3.3v. The standard pulse of 10 microseconds changed to 15 had it working perfectly rather than intermittently. All that pain over two years for the sake of 5 microseconds. Will try playing with a high psrr LDO post booster for potential future needs, as the interaction completely threw me. The error only showed up when the ultrasonic range extended (tank emptied), blissfully unaware until then. I don't have the skills to design a booster, and components on the commercial ones are difficult if not impossible to identify, so post treatment it will have to be.
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  Safe In-Wall AC to DC Transformers??
  1 Jul 2015, 23:42 • petewill   12 Jun 2019, 14:46

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  12 Jun 2019, 14:46

  I emailed Hi-Link about the HLK-PW01 power supplies that @rmh, @yannik-mündler and myself purchased. These are the power supplies with a removable bottom. I sent the following email to Sunny at Hi-Link (contact info: http://www.hlktech.net/contact.php). ++++ Hello, Are the two HLK-PM01s in the attached images genuine Hi-Link parts? A major difference is the part on the right has a bottom cover that is easily removable. I bought the part on the left from an Aliexpress seller in July 2018. The part on the right was bought from the same Aliexpress seller in May 2019. Thank you very much for your help. ++++ Here is Sunny's reply: ++++ Now all of our module are use new version . The one you bought on 2019 is the new version, the old version is not used yet. By the way,May I know you are the final user or the reseller? If you are worried about it,you can buy from our website www.hlktech.net or our Aliexpress store https://hlktech.aliexpress.com/store/211069 directly. ++++ I went to the Aliexpress page in their email and found the HLK-PM01 page. On that page they say: ++++ Recently,there are many fake module in the market,in order to Standardize the market environment,keep benifit for the customers,We,Hi-Link,changed our module to the new but more quality version,the back of new version is show as the following picture,currently,the old version and new version were sent random,please pay attention to that!thank you very much! ++++ They also show images of the previous version (which we are all familiar with) and the new version (with the removable bottom). So, it appears the HLK-PW01 power supplies with the removable bottom, from a reliable vendor, or directly from Hi-Link, are genuine Hi-Link power supplies. Below is my two images of the bottom of the two genuine power supplies (old on the left, new on the right).
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  Arduino due library
  9 Jun 2019, 17:21 • vinny74   9 Jun 2019, 17:21

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  How to work with the C02 Sensor MH-Z19B
  6 Jun 2019, 22:46 • bitttttten   7 Jun 2019, 16:33

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  Welcome to the MySensors forum. MySensors is a library you can use to create a wireless mesh network of sensors which communicate with a central point, such as your Raspberry Pi. You could attach an Arduino Nano to USB and talk to it via Serial. You could create a MySensors network, which you could also communicate to via an arduino+radio on your USB port. Then you could attach countless sensors. There is a ready-to-go sketch for the MH-Z19B.
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  MH Z19b - Running CO2 sensor on batteries
  battery battery powered battery sensor sensors co2 z19 mhz19 mh z19 co2 sensors mhz19b z19b mh z19b • 10 Sept 2018, 01:37 • Siddharth Velappan   6 Jun 2019, 22:43

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  Hi @Siddharth-Velappan The warmup time of the MH Z19b is 3 minutes. So 2 is probably fine, but you could probably do 3 just in case. Although 2 would save your more battery time. Do you mind explaining your setup a bit more? I would love to do something similar but I do not know where to get started with the PIC microcontroller!
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  What would you use this board for?!
  5 Jun 2019, 11:52 • DCE   5 Jun 2019, 18:48

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  5 Jun 2019, 18:48

  I use a similar board like this (though without the battery) to show the weather forecast for today and traffic information for upcoming routes in our walk-in closet. So I don't have to check the forecast on my phone while dressing.
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  Hello, I am wanting to display MPG on an old VW camper van. Does anybody know of a hall effect flow sensor that can report the very low flows found in carburetors please.
  mpg meter for vw camper van • 3 Jun 2019, 17:07 • terryrow   4 Jun 2019, 02:05

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  4 Jun 2019, 02:05

  guess no odb port?
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  Maximum distances between node and gateway with radio RFM69HW chips
  26 May 2019, 21:02 • evb   27 May 2019, 07:27

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  RF performance depends a lot on what's the setup antenna shape (coiled/meandered less efficient, or straigth one), orientation, radiation shape, size, tuning (inside final enclosure might be different, good to check rssis and adjust if needed), quality (lot of bad/untuned on some ebay/Ali shops) GND plane size, software settings the test environment etc for example, here I use 868mhz. I have a compact outdoor RFM69CW node with a simple homemade coiled "wire" antenna (RFM69CW has lower TX power, no power amplifier) sending well at 45-50m from the house, and the RFM69HCW gateway (with power amplifier) is indoor. One thick wall and some trees. Elevation of both ends/antennas is 1.5m, default software settings (for bitrate etc). But in direct line of sight, outdoor, there are also people reporting up to 1-2km range. Compared to MySensors on 2.4ghz, it can be easier to get reliable indoor link with subghz. Like in case you would already have others protocols on 2.4, with wifi and expanders, zigbee, ble, mysensors is not yet resilient to interferences and overlapping freq with these others protocols.. (no frequency hopping for example). It means, 2.4ghz needs more care, and depends on long term evolution of your network..
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  Nano minimum voltage
  20 May 2019, 09:33 • arden   23 May 2019, 15:10

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  @bjacobse Granted that is what he has, but it's a lot more effort reducing a Nano to pro-mini compared to the cost of a getting a pro-mini to begin surgery to start with... We all have devices bought with good intention gathering dust as we learn.... One of these days will get a Nano to play with, but had dismissed it for battery applications from the start of this adventure and have seen no reason to reconsider that conclusion since.. For testbed or PSU applications, fine, but for battery applications?... As the Limerick man advised the driver seeking directions to Dublin, " I wouldn't start from here"
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  Attiny85
  13 May 2019, 10:13 • arden   14 May 2019, 13:22

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  @arden you can found on this blog some sensors using NRF24L01 and Attiny84 http://domotique-diy.over-blog.com I think migrate mysensors to this project
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  Electrodragon NRF Pro Mini Sensor Board
  28 Mar 2018, 01:27 • patt896   14 May 2019, 12:55

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  14 May 2019, 12:55

  @rpunkt if 3ma is your current draw while sleeping, you will quickly drain any battery or supercap. The "mini boost buck dc board" itself has a no-load current of 1.77mA. Might look here for low-power libraries and design considerations: http://www.home-automation-community.com/arduino-low-power-how-to-run-atmega328p-for-a-year-on-coin-cell-battery/ https://github.com/rocketscream/Low-Power
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  help with pairing
  12 May 2019, 17:20 • arden   12 May 2019, 18:54

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  12 May 2019, 18:54

  great work @arden, thanks for reporting back!
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  few hardware questions before I start
  8 May 2019, 10:49 • arden   11 May 2019, 11:01

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  @arden nice work! Gateway can be on the same pi as the controller. Many people use that configuration. Personally I use Domoticz, because it is very easy to get started with. I think Hass has more features, so in the long run Hass might be a better choice.
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  Tilt-up garage door clearance sensor
  9 May 2019, 12:23 • Atesz   10 May 2019, 16:37

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  Basically you have 2 options: You are present to watch when the port goes down something expensive like this: https://duckduckgo.com/?q=Safety+Light+Curtains&t=canonical&iar=images&iax=images&ia=images
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  Solar powered node, that should only send occasionally
  5 May 2019, 09:31 • RPunkt   6 May 2019, 15:09

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  3mA sleep current is very high, you should probably set a goal for a few hundred uA maximum. I would suggest determining what is causing high sleep current consumption. This is theoretically possible with atmega328p as well as nrf24l01, should be able to accomplish this if using proper sleep and/or standby modes for each. Another thing to look at is the hardware your boards are using. One notorious culprit for high sleep current is AMS1117 voltage regulator, which has very sad ~4mA quiescent current - not appropriate for power-saving/battery nodes - but far to common on boards you will find (like clone of pro-minis, etc). (There are several other 3.3v LDOs with much better Iq - https://ethercalc.org/500ma-ldos) This might also have some good ideas as a place to start as well: http://www.home-automation-community.com/arduino-low-power-how-to-run-atmega328p-for-a-year-on-coin-cell-battery/
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  Simple question about magnetic door sensors
  24 Apr 2019, 23:21 • sharpy   5 May 2019, 20:28

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  5 May 2019, 20:28

  @sharpy Theoretically it can be done for the processor for sure, but you will hit problems with radio which is less amenable to low voltage. You only really need remove the power LED for the pro-mini as that runs continuously, removing the VR requires external voltage source and control, tinkering with the processor speed and fuses (google here if unfamiliar) enables the processor to run down to very low volts with restricted performance, all well documented here and elsewhere, but as previously commented, radio may prove the greater problem. My selected 16MHz 3.3v Arduinos stretched available performance to the limits, and no regrets, 100% reliable all the way down to sucking the batteries dry. You may be better skilled than I to try, info aplenty here to assist from those who've been there and done that...
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  Running ATmega328P on internal 8MHz clock
  29 Nov 2015, 14:39 • BartE   4 May 2019, 13:15

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  4 May 2019, 13:15

  @eeichinger Yes an old thread, but still useful. well if you plan to run on a low voltage, you must disable BOD, else per default the 328 will switch off at 2,7V. And then you need to run 1 at MHz
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  This topic is deleted!
  3 May 2019, 17:25 • Alex Calvun   3 May 2019, 17:25

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  usb bluetooh dongle for long range scan
  3 May 2019, 09:36 • blademckain   3 May 2019, 09:36

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  Setting up the 2nd RF24 network..
  nrf24l01 rf24 nrf24network • 28 Apr 2019, 07:06 • pvoj   28 Apr 2019, 09:33

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  @yveaux thank you for letting me know about this great project! The thread is also very useful. I managed to find a relatively quiet range in channels.
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  Sensebender GW board cannot be selected
  26 Apr 2019, 05:43 • mobsens   26 Apr 2019, 05:43

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  stm32 sleep support
  9 Apr 2019, 06:37 • rozpruwacz   22 Apr 2019, 18:56

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  @rozpruwacz I have also my "own" nrf52840 mySensors board (50m33mm) which we designed together with ranseyer (made for a few cents). The small nRF5280 modules from RFstar which are on our relatively small mySensors board (which the mySensors 2.6 standard pinheader) cost around 5€. So I consider them as very cost effective. One of the very interesting MCU's a few of us have tried is the TI CC1352(P) which has 2,4GHz and 868MHz on-board, so you can use one of theme or both together, but there are only a few modules available and they cost almost 30€ and you need to place them on your own board such as the nRF52840 or any other modules which are meant to solder on own designed boards.
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  About DS18B20 onewire.
  ds18b20 dallas one wire onewire • 23 Jun 2016, 09:53 • flopp   19 Apr 2019, 07:39

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  19 Apr 2019, 07:39

  But.... Can you also help me to add to this sketch option to send to example to Home Assistant also DESCRIPTION to each sensors ? And description will be get from sketch from name about address sensor ? As in this sketch which i have for relay: #define USE_EXPANDER // Enable debug prints to serial monitor //#define MY_DEBUG #define MY_GATEWAY_SERIAL #include <MySensors.h> #include <Bounce2.h> #ifdef USE_EXPANDER #include <Wire.h> // Required for I2C communication #include "PCF8574.h" uint8_t expanderAddresses[] = {0x20}; const int numberOfExpanders = sizeof(expanderAddresses); PCF8574 expander[numberOfExpanders]; #define E(expanderNo, ExpanderPin) (((expanderNo+1)<<8) | (ExpanderPin)) #endif // No Button Constant #define NOB -1 #define MULTI_RELAY_VERSION 9 #define RELAY_STATE_STORAGE 1 const uint8_t RELAY_TRIGGER_LOW = 0; const uint8_t RELAY_TRIGGER_HIGH = 1; const uint8_t RELAY_STARTUP_ON = 2; const uint8_t RELAY_STARTUP_OFF = 4; const uint8_t RELAY_STARTUP_MASK = RELAY_STARTUP_ON | RELAY_STARTUP_OFF; enum ButtonType { MONO_STABLE = 0, BI_STABLE = 1, DING_DONG = 2 // HIGH state immediatly after push, LOW state after release }; typedef struct { int sensorId; int relay; int button; uint8_t relayOptions; ButtonType buttonType; const char * relayDescription; } RelayButton; // CONFIGURE ONLY THIS ARRAY! // Row params: sensor ID - sensor ID reported on MySensor Gateway // relay pin - Expander supported // button pin - <0 for virtual buttons (only available in MySensor Gateway); no support for Expander // relay options - [RELAY_TRIGGER_LOW|RELAY_TRIGGER_HIGH] {RELAY_STARTUP_ON|RELAY_STARTUP_OFF} // button type - [MONO_STABLE|BI_STABLE|DING_DONG] // relay description - reported on MySensor Gateway, can help identify device on initial configuration in Home Automation App, can be empty ("") RelayButton myRelayButtons[] = { {0, 2, A0, RELAY_TRIGGER_LOW, MONO_STABLE, "Ł2 - kinkiet [C10]"}, // WŁ: Ł2 {1, 16, A1, RELAY_TRIGGER_LOW, BI_STABLE, "Salon 2 [A9]"}, // WŁ: Salon 2 {2, 15, A2, RELAY_TRIGGER_LOW, BI_STABLE, "Salon 1 [A10]"}, // WŁ: Salon 1 {3, E(0,1), A3, RELAY_TRIGGER_LOW | RELAY_STARTUP_OFF, BI_STABLE, "Halogen - Taras [B8]"}, // WŁ: Taras {4, 22, A4, RELAY_TRIGGER_LOW, BI_STABLE, "Kuchnia [B2]"}, // WŁ: Kuchnia 1 {5, 23, A5, RELAY_TRIGGER_LOW, BI_STABLE, "Kuchnia - Kinkiet [B3]"}, // WŁ: Kuchnia 2 {6, 28, A6, RELAY_TRIGGER_LOW, BI_STABLE, "Jadalnia 2 [A4]"}, // WŁ: Hall I/Jadalnia prawy {17, 17, A7, RELAY_TRIGGER_LOW, BI_STABLE, "Ł1 - Kinkiet [A11]"}, // WŁ: Hall I/Ł1 prawy {8, 31, A8, RELAY_TRIGGER_LOW, MONO_STABLE, "Garaż [A7]"}, // WŁ: Kotłownia/Garaż {8, 31, A9, RELAY_TRIGGER_LOW, MONO_STABLE, "Garaż [A7]"}, // WŁ: Garaż {10, 14, A10, RELAY_TRIGGER_LOW | RELAY_STARTUP_ON, BI_STABLE, "Halogen - wejście [B4]"}, // WŁ: Drzwi wejściowe {11, E(0,7), A11, RELAY_TRIGGER_LOW, DING_DONG, "Dzwonek [?]"}, // WŁ: Dzwonek {12, 29, A12, RELAY_TRIGGER_LOW, BI_STABLE, "Hall 1 [A5]"}, // WŁ: Hall I/Jadalnia lewy {12, 29, A13, RELAY_TRIGGER_LOW, BI_STABLE, "Hall 1 [A5]"}, // WŁ: Hall I/Wiatrołap {14, 32, A14, RELAY_TRIGGER_LOW, BI_STABLE, "Wiatrołap [A8]"}, // WŁ: Wiatrołap/Hall I {15, 19, A15, RELAY_TRIGGER_LOW, MONO_STABLE, "Kotłownia [B1]"}, // WŁ: Kotłownia/Hall I {16, 24, 53, RELAY_TRIGGER_LOW, BI_STABLE, "Ł1 - Taśma LED [C1]"}, // WŁ: Hall I/Ł1 środek {17, 17, 52, RELAY_TRIGGER_LOW, MONO_STABLE, "Ł1 - Kinkiet [A11]"}, // WŁ: Ł1 {18, 18, 51, RELAY_TRIGGER_LOW, BI_STABLE, "Ł1 [A12]"}, // WŁ: Hall I/Ł1 lewy {19, 6, 50, RELAY_TRIGGER_LOW, BI_STABLE, "Klatka Schodowa [B7]"}, // WŁ: Hall I/Schody 1 {12, 29, 49, RELAY_TRIGGER_LOW, BI_STABLE, "Hall 1 [A5]"}, // WŁ: Hall I/Schody 2 {21, 26, 48, RELAY_TRIGGER_LOW, BI_STABLE, "Gabinet [A2]"}, // WŁ: Gabinet {22, 7, 47, RELAY_TRIGGER_LOW, BI_STABLE, "Hall 2 [B5]"}, // WŁ: Hall II/Schody 1 {19, 6, 46, RELAY_TRIGGER_LOW, BI_STABLE, "Klatka Schodowa [B7]"}, // WŁ: Hall II/Schody 2 {24, 10, 45, RELAY_TRIGGER_LOW, BI_STABLE, "Garderoba [C12]"}, // WŁ: Garderoba {25, 4, 44, RELAY_TRIGGER_LOW, MONO_STABLE, "Pok. nad kuchnią 2 [B10]"}, // WŁ: Pok. nad kuchnią 2 {26, 5, 43, RELAY_TRIGGER_LOW, BI_STABLE, "Pok. nad kuchnią 1 [B9]"}, // WŁ: Pok. nad kuchnią 1 {27, 8, 42, RELAY_TRIGGER_LOW, BI_STABLE, "Pok. nad salonem 2 [B12]"}, // WŁ: Pok. nad salonem 2 {28, 9, 41, RELAY_TRIGGER_LOW, MONO_STABLE, "Pok. nad salonem 1 [B11]"}, // WŁ: Pok. nad salonem 1 {29, 3, 40, RELAY_TRIGGER_LOW, BI_STABLE, "Ł2 [C7]"}, // WŁ: Hall II/Ł2 1 {30, E(0,3), 39, RELAY_TRIGGER_LOW, BI_STABLE, "Ł2 - Taśma LED [?]"}, // WŁ: Hall II/Ł2 2 {22, 7, 38, RELAY_TRIGGER_LOW, BI_STABLE, "Hall 2 [B5]"}, // WŁ: Hall II/Sypialnia {32, 11, 37, RELAY_TRIGGER_LOW, BI_STABLE, "Sypialnia 2 [C9]"}, // WŁ: Sypialnia 2 {33, 12, 36, RELAY_TRIGGER_LOW, BI_STABLE, "Sypialnia 1 [C8]"}, // WŁ: Sypialnia 1 {34, 25, -1, RELAY_TRIGGER_LOW | RELAY_STARTUP_ON, MONO_STABLE, "Halogen - Garaż [A1]"}, // WŁ: Virtual Button 1 {35, 30, -2, RELAY_TRIGGER_LOW | RELAY_STARTUP_OFF, MONO_STABLE, "Ł1 - Wentylator [A3]"}, // WŁ: Virtual Button 2 {36, E(0,2), -3, RELAY_TRIGGER_LOW | RELAY_STARTUP_OFF, MONO_STABLE, "Halogen - wschód [B6]"}, // WŁ: Virtual Button 3 {37, E(0,4), -4, RELAY_TRIGGER_LOW, MONO_STABLE, "Lampki schodowe [C6]"}, // WŁ: Virtual Button 4 {38, E(0,5), -5, RELAY_TRIGGER_LOW, MONO_STABLE, "Lampki podłogowe I [C4]"}, // WŁ: Virtual Button 5 {39, E(0,6), -6, RELAY_TRIGGER_LOW, MONO_STABLE, "Lampki podłogowe II [C2]"}, // WŁ: Virtual Button 6 {40, E(0,0), -7, RELAY_TRIGGER_LOW | RELAY_STARTUP_OFF, MONO_STABLE, "Ł2 - wentylator [C11]"}, // WŁ: Virtual Button 7 }; const int numberOfRelayButtons = sizeof(myRelayButtons) / sizeof(RelayButton); typedef struct { int firstButton; int nextButton; } RelayMultiButtons; RelayMultiButtons relayMultiButtons[numberOfRelayButtons]; uint8_t myRelayState[numberOfRelayButtons]; // MySensors - Sending Data // To send data you have to create a MyMessage container to hold the information. MyMessage msgs[numberOfRelayButtons]; Bounce myButtonDebouncer[numberOfRelayButtons]; //Function Declaration uint8_t loadRelayState(int relayNum, uint8_t forceEeprom = 0); void saveRelayState(int relayNum, uint8_t state, uint8_t useEeprom); void saveRelayState(int relayNum, uint8_t state); void changeRelayState(int relayNum, uint8_t relayState); // MySensors - This will execute before MySensors starts up void before() { Serial.begin(115200); #ifdef USE_EXPANDER /* Start I2C bus and PCF8574 instance */ for(int i = 0; i < numberOfExpanders; i++) { expander[i].begin(expanderAddresses[i]); } #endif // initialize multiple buttons list structure for (int i = 0; i < numberOfRelayButtons; i++) { relayMultiButtons[i].firstButton = -1; relayMultiButtons[i].nextButton = -1; } // find multiple buttons for the same relay (uni-directional list) for (int i = 0; i < numberOfRelayButtons-1; i++) { if (relayMultiButtons[i].firstButton == -1) { int prevRelayButton = i; for (int j = i+1; j < numberOfRelayButtons; j++) { if (myRelayButtons[i].relay == myRelayButtons[j].relay) { relayMultiButtons[prevRelayButton].firstButton = i; relayMultiButtons[prevRelayButton].nextButton = j; relayMultiButtons[j].firstButton = i; prevRelayButton = j; } } } } // if version has changed, reset state of all relays int versionChangeResetState = (MULTI_RELAY_VERSION == loadState(0) ) ? 0 : 1; for (int i = 0; i < numberOfRelayButtons; i++) { // if this relay has multiple buttons, load only first if (relayMultiButtons[i].firstButton == -1 || relayMultiButtons[i].firstButton == i) { // Then set relay pins in output mode #ifdef USE_EXPANDER if ( myRelayButtons[i].relay & 0xff00 ) { // EXPANDER int expanderNo = (myRelayButtons[i].relay >> 8) - 1; int expanderPin = myRelayButtons[i].relay & 0xff; expander[expanderNo].pinMode(expanderPin, OUTPUT); } else { #endif pinMode(myRelayButtons[i].relay, OUTPUT); #ifdef USE_EXPANDER } #endif uint8_t isTurnedOn = 0; if (myRelayButtons[i].relayOptions & RELAY_STARTUP_ON) { isTurnedOn = 1; } else if (myRelayButtons[i].relayOptions & RELAY_STARTUP_OFF) { } else { // Set relay to last known state (using eeprom storage) isTurnedOn = loadRelayState(i, 1); // 1 - true, 0 - false if (versionChangeResetState && isTurnedOn) { saveRelayState(i, 0, 1); isTurnedOn = 0; } } changeRelayState(i, isTurnedOn); myRelayState[i] = isTurnedOn; } } if (versionChangeResetState) { // version has changed, so store new version in eeporom saveState(0, MULTI_RELAY_VERSION); } } // executed AFTER mysensors has been initialised void setup() { for(int i = 0; i < numberOfRelayButtons; i++) { if (myRelayButtons[i].button >= 0) { // No Expander support for buttons (de-bouncing) pinMode(myRelayButtons[i].button, INPUT_PULLUP); // HIGH state when button is not pushed } } // Setup locally attached sensors delay(5000); // Send state to MySensor Gateway for(int i = 0; i < numberOfRelayButtons; i++) { // if this relay has multiple buttons, send only first if (relayMultiButtons[i].firstButton == -1 || relayMultiButtons[i].firstButton == i) { msgs[i] = MyMessage(myRelayButtons[i].sensorId, V_LIGHT); uint8_t relayState; if (myRelayButtons[i].relayOptions & RELAY_STARTUP_ON) { relayState = 1; } else if (myRelayButtons[i].relayOptions & RELAY_STARTUP_OFF) { relayState = 0; } else { relayState = loadRelayState(i); } send(msgs[i].set(relayState)); // send current state } } // Setup buttons for(int i = 0; i < numberOfRelayButtons; i++) { if (myRelayButtons[i].button >= 0) { // setup debouncer myButtonDebouncer[i] = Bounce(); myButtonDebouncer[i].attach(myRelayButtons[i].button); myButtonDebouncer[i].interval(50); } } } void loop() { for(int i = 0; i < numberOfRelayButtons; i++) { if (myRelayButtons[i].button >= 0 && myButtonDebouncer[i].update()) { int buttonState = myButtonDebouncer[i].read(); #ifdef MY_DEBUG Serial.print("# Button "); Serial.print(i); Serial.print(" changed to: "); Serial.println(buttonState); #endif int relayNum = (relayMultiButtons[i].firstButton == -1) ? i : relayMultiButtons[i].firstButton; if (myRelayButtons[i].buttonType == DING_DONG) { if (buttonState == LOW) { // button pressed changeRelayState(relayNum, 1); send(msgs[relayNum].set(1)); } else { // button released changeRelayState(relayNum, 0); send(msgs[relayNum].set(0)); } } else if (myRelayButtons[i].buttonType == BI_STABLE || buttonState == HIGH) { // If button type is BI_STABLE, any change will toggle relay state // For MONO_STABLE, button must be pushed and released (HIGH) uint8_t isTurnedOn = ! loadRelayState(relayNum); // 1 - true, 0 - false changeRelayState(relayNum, isTurnedOn); send(msgs[relayNum].set(isTurnedOn)); saveRelayState(relayNum, isTurnedOn); } } } } // MySensors - Presentation // Your sensor must first present itself to the controller. // The presentation is a hint to allow controller prepare for the sensor data that eventually will come. // Executed after "before()" and before "setup()" in: _begin (MySensorsCore.cpp) > gatewayTransportInit() > presentNode() void presentation() { // Send the sketch version information to the gateway and Controller sendSketchInfo("Multi Relay", "1.2"); // Register every relay as separate sensor for (int i = 0; i < numberOfRelayButtons; i++) { // if this relay has multiple buttons, register only first if (relayMultiButtons[i].firstButton == -1 || relayMultiButtons[i].firstButton == i) { // Register all sensors to gw (they will be created as child devices) // void present(uint8_t childSensorId, uint8_t sensorType, const char *description, bool ack); // childSensorId - The unique child id you want to choose for the sensor connected to this Arduino. Range 0-254. // sensorType - The sensor type you want to create. // description An optional textual description of the attached sensor. // ack - Set this to true if you want destination node to send ack back to this node. Default is not to request any ack. present(myRelayButtons[i].sensorId, S_BINARY, myRelayButtons[i].relayDescription); } } } // MySensors - Handling incoming messages // Nodes that expects incoming data, such as an actuator or repeating nodes, // must implement the receive() - function to handle the incoming messages. // Do not sleep a node where you expect incoming data or you will lose messages. void receive(const MyMessage &message) { // We only expect one type of message from controller. But we better check anyway. if (message.type == V_STATUS) { uint8_t isTurnedOn = message.getBool(); // 1 - true, 0 - false changeRelayState(message.sensor, isTurnedOn); // Store state in eeprom if changed if (loadRelayState(message.sensor) != isTurnedOn) { saveRelayState(message.sensor, isTurnedOn); } send(msgs[message.sensor].set(isTurnedOn)); // support for OPTIMISTIC=FALSE (Home Asistant) #ifdef MY_DEBUG // Write some debug info Serial.print("# Incoming change for sensor: " + message.sensor); Serial.println(", New status: " + isTurnedOn); #endif } } uint8_t loadRelayState(int relayNum, uint8_t forceEeprom) { uint8_t relayState; if (forceEeprom) { relayState = loadState(RELAY_STATE_STORAGE + relayNum); } else { relayState = myRelayState[relayNum]; } #ifdef MY_DEBUG Serial.print("# loadRelayState: "); Serial.print(relayNum); if (forceEeprom) { Serial.print("(byte "); Serial.print(RELAY_STATE_STORAGE + relayNum); Serial.print(")"); } Serial.print(" = "); Serial.println(relayState); #endif return(relayState); } void saveRelayState(int relayNum, uint8_t state, uint8_t useEeprom) { int mainRelayNum = (relayMultiButtons[relayNum].firstButton == -1) ? relayNum : relayMultiButtons[relayNum].firstButton; myRelayState[mainRelayNum] = state; if (useEeprom && (relayNum == mainRelayNum)) { saveState(RELAY_STATE_STORAGE + mainRelayNum, state); } int nextButton = mainRelayNum; // update all buttons while ((nextButton = relayMultiButtons[nextButton].nextButton) != -1) { myRelayState[nextButton] = state; }; } void saveRelayState(int relayNum, uint8_t state) { uint8_t useEeprom = ((myRelayButtons[relayNum].relayOptions & RELAY_STARTUP_MASK) == 0); saveRelayState(relayNum, state, useEeprom); } void changeRelayState(int relayNum, uint8_t relayState) { uint8_t relayTrigger = myRelayButtons[relayNum].relayOptions & RELAY_TRIGGER_HIGH; uint8_t digitalOutState = relayState ? relayTrigger : ! relayTrigger; #ifdef USE_EXPANDER if ( myRelayButtons[relayNum].relay & 0xff00 ) { int expanderNo = (myRelayButtons[relayNum].relay >> 8) - 1; int expanderPin = myRelayButtons[relayNum].relay & 0xff; expander[expanderNo].digitalWrite(expanderPin, digitalOutState); } else { #endif digitalWrite(myRelayButtons[relayNum].relay, digitalOutState); #ifdef USE_EXPANDER } #endif } And in Home assistant show example decription: Ł2 - kinkiet [C10] or for second Salon 2 [A9] etc. Please help me... because it will be good to identify sensors when add to Controller.
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  rboard - Cheap relay/radio/arduino board ~$10
  23 Jul 2014, 03:54 • gregl   17 Apr 2019, 10:03

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  17 Apr 2019, 10:03

  @alowhum said in rboard - Cheap relay/radio/arduino board ~$10: Could you share the sketch? Perhaps others will learn from it too? Great idea! Here it is // Enable debug prints to serial monitor #define MY_DEBUG // Enable and select radio type attached #define MY_RADIO_NRF24 //#define MY_RADIO_RFM69 #include <SPI.h> #include <MySensors.h> #include <DallasTemperature.h> #include <OneWire.h> // Setup Relay bits #define RELAY_PIN 4 // Arduino Digital I/O pin number for first relay (second on pin+1 etc) #define NUMBER_OF_RELAYS 1 // Total number of attached relays #define RELAY_ON 1 // GPIO value to write to turn on attached relay #define RELAY_OFF 0 // GPIO value to write to turn off attached relay // Setup Temperature bits #define COMPARE_TEMP 1 // Send temperature only if changed? 1 = Yes 0 = No #define ONE_WIRE_BUS 14 // Pin where dallase sensor is connected #define MAX_ATTACHED_DS18B20 16 unsigned long SLEEP_TIME = 30000; // Sleep time between reads (in milliseconds) OneWire oneWire(ONE_WIRE_BUS); // Setup a oneWire instance to communicate with any OneWire devices (not just Maxim/Dallas temperature ICs) DallasTemperature sensors(&oneWire); // Pass the oneWire reference to Dallas Temperature. float lastTemperature[MAX_ATTACHED_DS18B20]; int numSensors = 0; bool receivedConfig = false; bool metric = true; // Initialize temperature message MyMessage tempMsg(0, V_TEMP); void before() { for (int sensor = 1, pin = RELAY_PIN; sensor <= NUMBER_OF_RELAYS; sensor++, pin++) { // Then set relay pins in output mode pinMode(pin, OUTPUT); // Set relay to last known state (using eeprom storage) digitalWrite(pin, loadState(sensor) ? RELAY_ON : RELAY_OFF); } // Startup up the OneWire library sensors.begin(); } void setup() { // requestTemperatures() will not block current thread sensors.setWaitForConversion(false); } void presentation() { // Send the sketch version information to the gateway and Controller sendSketchInfo("Temp and Relay", "1.0"); // Fetch the number of attached temperature sensors numSensors = sensors.getDeviceCount(); // Present all sensors to controller for (int i = 0; i < numSensors && i < MAX_ATTACHED_DS18B20; i++) { present(i, S_TEMP); for (int sensor = 1, pin = RELAY_PIN; sensor <= NUMBER_OF_RELAYS; sensor++, pin++) { // Register all sensors to gw (they will be created as child devices) present(sensor, S_BINARY); } } } void loop() { // Fetch temperatures from Dallas sensors sensors.requestTemperatures(); // query conversion time and sleep until conversion completed int16_t conversionTime = sensors.millisToWaitForConversion(sensors.getResolution()); // sleep() call can be replaced by wait() call if node need to process incoming messages (or if node is repeater) wait(conversionTime); // Read temperatures and send them to controller for (int i = 0; i < numSensors && i < MAX_ATTACHED_DS18B20; i++) { // Fetch and round temperature to one decimal float temperature = static_cast<float>(static_cast<int>((getControllerConfig().isMetric ? sensors.getTempCByIndex(i) : sensors.getTempFByIndex(i)) * 10.)) / 10.; // Only send data if temperature has changed and no error #if COMPARE_TEMP == 1 if (lastTemperature[i] != temperature && temperature != -127.00 && temperature != 85.00) { #else if (temperature != -127.00 && temperature != 85.00) { #endif // Send in the new temperature send(tempMsg.setSensor(i).set(temperature, 1)); // Save new temperatures for next compare lastTemperature[i] = temperature; } } wait(SLEEP_TIME); } void receive(const MyMessage &message) { // We only expect one type of message from controller. But we better check anyway. if (message.type == V_STATUS) { // Change relay state digitalWrite(message.sensor - 1 + RELAY_PIN, message.getBool() ? RELAY_ON : RELAY_OFF); // Store state in eeprom saveState(message.sensor, message.getBool()); // Write some debug info Serial.print("Incoming change for sensor:"); Serial.print(message.sensor); Serial.print(", New status: "); Serial.println(message.getBool()); } }
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  Piezzo siren/alarm
  9 Apr 2019, 10:42 • ben999   17 Apr 2019, 05:15

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  17 Apr 2019, 05:15

  @fotofieber DC+ one output is really poor and voltage has no impact on noise. I have tested with up to 6S LiPo and there's absolutely no gain as compared to 5V DC AC+ two outputs is a game changer! Much louder right from +/-5V and really a killer @ +/-12V. So that's it: the first iteration of this project will go for a step-up converter from 5V up to 12V for the piezo speaker. Thanks folks! EDIT: could someone suggest a MOSFET (or transistor) that could be used in lieu of the huge (and probably over-sized) TIP120 (that where there, waiting in the drawer ). Through-hole is my league. SMD is a bit of a struggle (welding, machining pcb, ...) Thanks again
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  nrf51 problem
  15 Apr 2019, 02:55 • huex   16 Apr 2019, 05:57

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  16 Apr 2019, 05:57

  @mfalkvidd OK， i resoved this problem with battery detect in void before ,thanks
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  Female-female header connectors?
  31 Jul 2016, 16:03 • mfalkvidd   15 Apr 2019, 20:58

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  15 Apr 2019, 20:58

  You realy think, that it Is useful fór connecting two male connectors together, what way asked?
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  This topic is deleted!
  9 Apr 2019, 05:30 • Johnlarry   9 Apr 2019, 05:30

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  Push-button not working
  8 Apr 2019, 10:13 • geronimo   8 Apr 2019, 11:09

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  8 Apr 2019, 11:09

  If the door bell push button is outside then it is likely the contacts are not too good - that is why the original bell probably used 24 or higher voltage (likely AC) to overcome this. Take the cover off the button and lightly sand or file the contacts until you have shiny metal again. Do the same with the screws and wires that are held by the screws. Finally, give it a spray of wd40 and reassemble. Test again. Hopefully it will work now. If you do not feel confident doing that a new door bell push button is probably not that expensive and you would only need to clean the wires where they meet the contacts. Finally, be careful with the wires. Electricians leave little extra and they will very likely be solid core and can break easily.
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  RFM69HW connection to 2560 Mega Pro board
  5 Apr 2019, 17:58 • manutremo   6 Apr 2019, 07:08

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  6 Apr 2019, 07:08

  Answering to myself... after many tests I decided to start to start working backwards and started to discard assumptions... finally I discarded : I know that Mega pins are 5v and in theory RFM69 are 3.3v, but I have more sensors installed in a similar setup with mini Pro 5v and Nano boards that work perfectly. So I fit a ttl levels shifter between the Mega Pro and the RFM69 and it started to work right away. It looks like AT328 and AT2560 have different levels of sensitivity as of being able to interpret 3.3v correctly as a "1". Interestingly, I checked the datasheets for both chips and the specification is the same, min 0.6Vcc volts, so anything over 3v should be interpreted as a "1"... go see... As a final detail, I was able to use a 4way ttl shifter since the MISO line doesn't need to be shifted, which left me with MOSI, SCK, SS and INT. Credit to this forum page for this: I can also confirm that pin D2 on these boards is connected to INT0 as standard... I don't know why the pinout diagram indicates something different. I hope this helps others.
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  This topic is deleted!
  4 Apr 2019, 18:53 • Johnlarry   4 Apr 2019, 18:53

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  Choosing the right NRF chip for MySensors
  23 Mar 2019, 15:57 • olision   30 Mar 2019, 23:44

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  30 Mar 2019, 23:44

  Thank you both for your answers, that clears up most of the confusion I had around that subject! For my first prototype I might go with the BM832 and a on board regulator like Nca78 mentionned.
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  PMS7003 Sensor - TTY/UART scrambled output [solved]
  23 Mar 2019, 19:27 • kernelpanic   24 Mar 2019, 18:34

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  24 Mar 2019, 18:34

  @kernelpanic done. If you want to do it yourself next time, just click edit on your first post and edit the field at the top.
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  How to protect rain sensor from oxidation?
  2 Mar 2019, 16:46 • martim   24 Mar 2019, 18:29

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  24 Mar 2019, 18:29

  For my soil moisture sensors I use a transistor with which I switch the voltage on the sensor on and off with an interval of 15 minutes. For a rain sensor I am lucky to have an old rain sensor from a greenhouse climate system, This sensor works in much the same way, only there are power resistors at the rear, which act as a kind of heating, these switch on when moisture or rain is measured on the sensor, and off again when they are dry.
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  Possible readymade sensor?
  6 Sept 2014, 07:04 • Homer   21 Mar 2019, 08:53

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  21 Mar 2019, 08:53

  Been doing a bit more research on this. The place I bought the plugs from actually have some projects that they have shared. One of them can be found here : https://www.jaycar.com.au/wi-fi-power-switch I'm hoping to find the time tomorrow to look at their sketch to see what I can come up with myself for the Mysensors environment.
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  E73 nrf52 sleep current
  15 Mar 2019, 15:33 • kisse66   18 Mar 2019, 19:45

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  18 Mar 2019, 19:45

  @nca78 about 27uA (Rigol DM3085) @3.2V. It only drops 1-2uA if I disconnect the sensors (all wires towards HTU21,BMP085,VEML6075, BH1750) which is about what the datasheet for those say under shutdown. So most is taken by NRF52. There can be other peripherals that could be turned off still before sleep maybe. Now I only handle the I2C errata and then shut it off before sleep (wire.end), the rest is in mysensors code for sleep. Sleep current does not change if I don't enable the DCDC. Perhaps the active current does a bit but can't measure it accurately (too fast). Just estimated that using AA-batteries it should last over 2 years. It only wakes up every 20min and runs about 400ms to send 7 values. But still I'd like to get better. This is my rain gauge / multisensor under upgrade. It was earlier powered by mega328+NRF24. Worked fine about a year, but then something happened and it started taking 2mA while sleeping. Didn't see any visible reason why.
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  [SOLVED] Problems with ESP8266 and NRF24L01+
  15 Aug 2017, 12:18 • numanx   18 Mar 2019, 00:22

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  18 Mar 2019, 00:22

  This thread has been a life saver for me. Just wanted to drop a line for anyone else who might be despairing why despite numerous tests, the radio would still not work on the NodeMCU. In my case, it was NodeMCU v3 from Lolin and I had two traces not workingbetween GPIO13 and GPIO12 - there was no continuity of the trace between the ESP-12E chip and the board pins. I had to solder those two traces together and now - everything works! Thank you for inspiring me to look for this problem.
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  This topic is deleted!
  18 Mar 2019, 00:21 • George Laynes   18 Mar 2019, 00:21

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  NRF24L01+ on SPI1, TFT on SPI0
  10 Mar 2019, 15:04 • nizoo91   17 Mar 2019, 21:41

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  17 Mar 2019, 21:41

  @monte said in NRF24L01+ on SPI1, TFT on SPI0: @nizoo91 that's nice, but i didn't found this method. Thanks for the tip! It is definitely easier to do this way But my main point was to help someone who will try to compile mysgw for SPI1 and it won't work, because picture he refered to was wrong... I may be stupid, but i spent whole day figuring that out For sure trust me I have been there and done that, spent days trying to figure something out and to find out it was the simplest thing to solve hahah Anyhow, checkout this site for any pin reference you need. I found it to be very accurate https://pinout.xyz/pinout/spi
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  Soil moisture sensor - strange readings
  25 Nov 2017, 15:25 • Teknor   15 Mar 2019, 18:10

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  15 Mar 2019, 18:10

  now it Looks better reversed D2 and D6 D2 -> Input 10K resistor-> Output 10K Input Fork and A1-> Output fork -> D6 The values now makes sense However...Would be great if someone can have a look on the Sketch because Ihave removed the OTA part and not sure If it was correct on this way. Many thanks Markus
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  Getting started. Samd21, dragino lora hat
  12 Mar 2019, 11:58 • percramer   13 Mar 2019, 10:43

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  13 Mar 2019, 10:43

  ok thanks! Then i will order the dragino board to test if it will work. I really like the samd series, so i will just test it and see what happens.
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  Trying to design MySensors PCB / Fritzing
  10 Mar 2019, 13:54 • Kokosnoot   12 Mar 2019, 21:27

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  12 Mar 2019, 21:27

  @sundberg84 said in Trying to design MySensors PCB / Fritzing: @kokosnoot MySensors kicad library: https://github.com/mysensors-kicad I managed to install that one with a bit of effort last weekend. However, inspired by bgunnarb I am already trying again for 40minutes to get a DHT11 footprint properly working, but failing thus far. There seems to be some in: https://github.com/KiCad/kicad-footprints/tree/master/Sensor.pretty but KiCad does not appreciate that as a library, (the default is to work from github.com/kicad/Capacitors_SMD.pretty for example, but those are all archived pages) I manually tried adding https://github.com/KiCad/kicad-footprints/tree/master/Sensor.pretty - similar as the other libraries (type Github, etc) but just get a "ZIP error"... Maybe I should try a nightly build instead of the stable 5.0.2. Edit: Just got it to work by downloading the entire 5.1.0 footprint library locally, and pointing to the [..]\footprints\Sensor.pretty file. Inspired by someone else with the same issue: https://forum.kicad.info/t/personal-footprints-via-on-demand-github-plugin-error-reading-zip-local-header/11777 . Hopefully this info might help someone else at some point!
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  Easily programmable nrf5
  8 Mar 2019, 10:32 • alowhum   8 Mar 2019, 22:12

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  8 Mar 2019, 22:12

  Thanks to both
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  Absolute pressure sensor in a vacuum
  5 Mar 2019, 09:16 • Tjalllas   5 Mar 2019, 09:16

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  WS2811 RGB strip lights up in groups of three
  2 Sept 2016, 19:27 • mfalkvidd   1 Mar 2019, 22:03

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  You guys had the wrong LED type in the arduino setup: // NEO_GRB Pixels are wired for GRB bitstream (most NeoPixel products) // NEO_RGB Pixels are wired for RGB bitstream (v1 FLORA pixels, not v2) // NEO_RGBW Pixels are wired for RGBW bitstream (NeoPixel RGBW products) I have the 12V GRB option - one controller connected to 3 leds but it runs smooth as a cat. With RGB and RGBW it doesn't work that well and I see only 3 led chunks. ali express link 12V2811 5m |1 50 leds | White PCB That is the setup line that works for the WS2811 RGB strip (GRB strip): Adafruit_NeoPixel strip = Adafruit_NeoPixel(NUM_LEDS, PIN, NEO_GRB + NEO_KHZ800); I went on this by accident and I thought I should let you know even after 2 years Hope that helps
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  Locally attached sensors on Raspberry PI Gateway
  1 Mar 2019, 03:30 • coza   1 Mar 2019, 05:55

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  My controller is Homeassistant. On separate hardware. My current gateway is a esp8226 but I would like to have more visible debugging, that is why I am looking into a raspberry
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  Need some help with this sensor setup for RF remote
  22 Feb 2019, 09:08 • brew8it   22 Feb 2019, 18:25

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  22 Feb 2019, 18:25

  RFLink to your controller plus 4 button RF senders from ebay.
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  I need some help about sensors
  18 Feb 2019, 14:38 • rocksolid   19 Feb 2019, 14:21

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  19 Feb 2019, 14:21

  I just realized one of the suggestions is a radar sensor. I should have said I was looking for a sensor that would detect objects like humans, trees, or poles, so I guess it would need to detect any object in front or around it that was close to it about 1 foot away. Sorry I should have mentioned that before.
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  Arduino 32u4 (MEGA) with built in GSM for $18
  25 Sept 2018, 19:02 • alowhum   18 Feb 2019, 15:32

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  18 Feb 2019, 15:32

  All that is mentioned in my posts above?
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  Maximum cable length
  10 Oct 2016, 06:50 • mk55   18 Feb 2019, 07:59

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  @mk55 said in Maximum cable length: maximum length of a shielded cable According to Cisco, the maximum cable length for STP is the same as UTP - 100' or about 330'. This is not to say that cables longer than this won't work. I personally have done very little with STP, but I'm sure I have pulled some UTP farther than 100m.
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  Mysensort mit DHT12 (i2C)
  29 Mar 2017, 05:05 • michlb1982   17 Feb 2019, 10:10

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  17 Feb 2019, 10:10

  Well i did it... i've got a working MYSENSOR with DHT12... here the Code ... its not nice but it works... // Enable debug prints #define MY_DEBUG // Define Node ID #define MY_NODE_ID 128 //#define MY_REPEATER_FEATURE // Enable and select radio type attached #define MY_RADIO_NRF24 #include <SPI.h> #include <MySensors.h> #include <DHT12.h> #include <Wire.h> DHT12 dht12; #define SENSOR_TEMP_OFFSET 0 // Sleep time between sensor updates (in milliseconds) // Must be >1000ms for DHT22 and >2000ms for DHT11 static const uint64_t UPDATE_INTERVAL = 30000; static const uint8_t FORCE_UPDATE_N_READS = 10; #define CHILD_ID_HUM 0 #define CHILD_ID_TEMP 1 float lastTemp; float lastHum; uint8_t nNoUpdatesTemp; uint8_t nNoUpdatesHum; bool metric = true; MyMessage msgHum(CHILD_ID_HUM, V_HUM); MyMessage msgTemp(CHILD_ID_TEMP, V_TEMP); void presentation() { // Send the sketch version information to the gateway sendSketchInfo("DHT12", "1.1"); // Register all sensors to gw (they will be created as child devices) present(CHILD_ID_HUM, S_HUM); present(CHILD_ID_TEMP, S_TEMP); //metric = getControllerConfig().isMetric; } void setup() { Wire.begin(); } void loop() { // Force reading sensor, so it works also after sleep() //dht12.readSensor(true); // Get temperature from DHT library float temperature = dht12.readTemperature(); if (isnan(temperature)) { Serial.println("Failed reading temperature from DHT!"); } else if (temperature != lastTemp || nNoUpdatesTemp == FORCE_UPDATE_N_READS) { // Only send temperature if it changed since the last measurement or if we didn't send an update for n times lastTemp = temperature; // apply the offset before converting to something different than Celsius degrees temperature += SENSOR_TEMP_OFFSET; if (!metric) { temperature = dht12.readTemperature(); } // Reset no updates counter nNoUpdatesTemp = 0; send(msgTemp.set(temperature, 1)); #ifdef MY_DEBUG Serial.print("T: "); Serial.println(temperature); #endif } else { // Increase no update counter if the temperature stayed the same nNoUpdatesTemp++; } // Get humidity from DHT library float humidity = dht12.readHumidity(); if (isnan(humidity)) { Serial.println("Failed reading humidity from DHT"); } else if (humidity != lastHum || nNoUpdatesHum == FORCE_UPDATE_N_READS) { // Only send humidity if it changed since the last measurement or if we didn't send an update for n times lastHum = humidity; // Reset no updates counter nNoUpdatesHum = 0; send(msgHum.set(humidity, 1)); #ifdef MY_DEBUG Serial.print("H: "); Serial.println(humidity); #endif } else { // Increase no update counter if the humidity stayed the same nNoUpdatesHum++; } // Sleep for a while to save energy sleep(UPDATE_INTERVAL); //wait(UPDATE_INTERVAL); //for repeaters } i Used this library: https://github.com/Bobadas/DHT12_library_Arduino/blob/master/README.md here the datasheet of the dht12: http://www.robototehnika.ru/file/DHT12.pdf
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  This topic is deleted!
  16 Feb 2019, 17:32 • Nigel31   16 Feb 2019, 17:32

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  Rocketscream Mini Ultra Pro V3 as gateway
  30 Jan 2019, 08:41 • robbie deloose   9 Feb 2019, 10:41

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  9 Feb 2019, 10:41

  @alexsh1 I've put this aside for a few days to clear my head. Changed to another breadboard started froms cratch and reconnected all the wiring. Now it does works! probably a bad connection or a miswiring. Thx for the help!
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  RFM69HW 868MHz working on 915MHz
  29 Jan 2019, 08:42 • kted   4 Feb 2019, 02:15

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  I accidentally used a 915 MHz part at 433 MHz and even that worked, albeit at substantially reduced range.
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  BME280 sensor variability
  31 Jan 2019, 14:39 • Guillermo Schimmel   3 Feb 2019, 16:42

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  I'm not sure how your physical test was setup. In the past I've found the best test was to put the sensors in a cardboard box, maybe 6x6x8 with the sensors on a plastic platform (an old food container), close it and let it sit for some hours in an area away from heat / cool vents etc. Is the host board the same for both sensors? For humidity you can put both in a plastic bag with a saturated solution of salt and water. Let sit for a few days. The humidity inside the bag will be almost exactly 75%. Becomes a cheap and dirty "reference" There has been reports that sampling too frequently will cause internal heating to a small degree. At what rate are you sampling the device? These suggestions are not to say what you see is not part to part variation.
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  livolo us standart currnt low .
  1 Feb 2019, 02:14 • naty6458   3 Feb 2019, 05:18

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  @naty6458 no need to be sorry. I keep hoping there is a better answer than what I found, and each time it is asked I learn something, so there is at least one person that is happy you asked. My plan is optocouplers, maybe a rechargeable coin cell to help power them. I want to connect to the pins for the rf receiver. I should be able to send the same code the remote uses to turn it on and off. Since I wont be sending codes often the coin cell should be fully charged most of the time, so the low capacity (~23mah) shouldn't cause a problem, unless someone flicks the lights on and off repeatedly. I'll power the arduino/rs485 module separately.
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  [SOLVED] Blue pill (stm32f1) + VEML6075 UV sensor
  26 Jan 2019, 21:00 • Fedor   1 Feb 2019, 09:38

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  1 Feb 2019, 09:38

  @yveaux I tried to use SoftWire in sketch without any libs and missed repeated start.
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  New STM32 board with provision for NRF24L01 and ESP8233 boards
  16 Nov 2017, 20:03 • Paul Robertson   1 Feb 2019, 08:10

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  1 Feb 2019, 08:10

  Hmm, I got two of them -- haven't had a chance to really dig into them yet.
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  Battery node radio choice
  21 Jan 2019, 12:00 • SteveG   27 Jan 2019, 18:45

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  27 Jan 2019, 18:45

  @steveg I have done a driver for a 433mhz HC12 radio, controlled with a BS170 n-channel mosfet. That setup has very long range and very low idle consumptio. My setup uses around 8-14 uA in Sleep including a few pull-up
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  Ethernet Gateway Hub
  26 Jan 2019, 23:07 • rush   26 Jan 2019, 23:07

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  Sensebender Micro Sketch and library files
  8 Jan 2019, 16:18 • egrootoonk   26 Jan 2019, 22:49

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  26 Jan 2019, 22:49

  I've ported SensebenderMicro.ino to MySensors 2.3.1 and PlatformIO. You may check it here: https://gist.github.com/radek-senfeld/ac829f6ef117bd04638659709b51e9e9 It's deployed on one of my SBMs for just a couple of minutes so.. here be dragons!
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  NRF24L01+ SI24R1
  3 Dec 2018, 11:09 • grumpazoid   24 Jan 2019, 15:10

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  @grumpazoid It is not the same module. Is another with a simpler antenna.
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  fody weather station
  4 Jan 2019, 14:54 • Stephen205   22 Jan 2019, 22:50

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  22 Jan 2019, 22:50

  So i have given up with iobroker and used FHEM instead, worked well first time.
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  Siren build
  28 Dec 2018, 08:32 • grumpazoid   21 Jan 2019, 12:43

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  21 Jan 2019, 12:43

  Parts arrived. Used the default relay sketch. Works great. Nice and loud.
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  Not working serial gateway connecting sensor
  19 Jan 2019, 12:44 • Thuurke   20 Jan 2019, 12:42

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  The log parser can be used to make it easier to read the log. Gateway link Node link The gateway log shows that the gateway sees the find parent request sent by the node, and sends a response. The node log shows that the node doesn't see the response. What is the distance between the gateway and the node? It needs to be at least 1 meter / 3ft, otherwise the signal can be too strong. Do you have a capacitor on both the nf24l01+?
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  nRF52832 and NRF2401
  20 Jan 2019, 08:35 • magpern   20 Jan 2019, 09:27

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  20 Jan 2019, 09:27

  @magpern yes. See "Configure MySensors" on https://www.openhardware.io/view/376/MySensors-NRF5-Platform
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  Sonoff 433 bridge
  16 Apr 2018, 10:42 • alowhum   20 Jan 2019, 09:19

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  20 Jan 2019, 09:19

  @alexsh1 I've built something you might be interested in: https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/10094/candle-433-hub-a-universal-433mhz-signal-cloner/1
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  Tabletop scene controller
  26 Nov 2018, 01:24 • dbemowsk   20 Jan 2019, 09:18

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  20 Jan 2019, 09:18

  FYI, I finished the 433 node I talked about: https://forum.mysensors.org/topic/10094/candle-433-hub-a-universal-433mhz-signal-cloner/1
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  Are rfm69 & nrf24l01 compatible
  18 Jan 2019, 22:46 • jimmy loyens   19 Jan 2019, 07:39

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  @mfalkvidd ok thanks for your answer.
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  GY type breakout parasitic current draw.
  20 Dec 2018, 22:12 • DavidZH   18 Jan 2019, 10:01

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  18 Jan 2019, 10:01

  Thanks Gohan, there are a few reasons for me to use the BME outside. The most important: power management (and that explains my conundrum now...). The unit contains a light sensor. That basically controls my lighting in the living room. So that needs to measure quite often to be able to control it with any accuracy. I've chosen every minute as a basis. That was also given when I found a sketch with a weather prediction function based on barometric pressure. That sketch needs to read the pressure every minute. That means that the sensor wakes up every minute. Also the radio. That's a huge load. Not really ideal for battery power. But that meant I was able to add the light sensor very easily. So now I put them in an outdoor sensor with a solar panel to keep the battery topped up. That still means I have to watch the consumption in sleep. Here in NL we have quit a few overcast days, so the panel will not be able to keep up with the demand on those days. The solution in place now is to wake up the sensor 1 second before measurement. Power up the sensors, put the controller and radio back to sleep for one second. Then do the measurement stuff, power down the sensor and I2C bus and go into deep sleep. Average current consumption measured over 4 hrs is now 140uA. Sleep current for the whole system is 36uA. That is including the charger board and Moteino voltage regulator. The unit is now up for 3 weeks and the panel keeps up very good. Most of those days were overcast. So when the cold hits next week with clear skies it should be full all the time. Battery level is sent every 6 hours. And next to that I have implemented a voltage measurement that signals when the battery is being charged. Energy is coming in, so I am allowed an extra data transfer... Now see if it dies on me again end of november 2019...
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  Resettable fuses.
  8 Jan 2019, 19:27 • grumpazoid   9 Jan 2019, 13:29

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  9 Jan 2019, 13:29

  @grumpazoid said in Resettable fuses.: I have made up some 500mA quick blow fuses that I already have from a trusted source. I am very happy to hear this. I am sure you will sleep safer and be prouder of your project by being more professional about safety. Whilst there are some things you can get away with using cheap components for, safety and power supplies are not to be taken lightly.
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  Leak detector cables.
  8 Jan 2019, 05:04 • ErickSaint   9 Jan 2019, 03:43

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  9 Jan 2019, 03:43

  Yup. Just as simple as that. With the pull down in place I get 0-4 on that pin when dry. And between around 50-300 when wet, depending on a few drops of water or cable fully submerged. Now I just need to piece everything together, both hardware and software. Trying to make a fail safe for my hydroponic system. The only way it can fail catastrophically, and flood my downstairs neighbors place, is if the drains fail and the pump keeps running. I'm using the leak sensor rope to go around my buckets and trigger a relay that will kill the pump at the first sign of any water under the buckets.
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  Arduino DUE MySensors Library Support
  8 Jan 2019, 08:30 • Jedie82   8 Jan 2019, 08:30

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  Gateway with Relays (4) on WEMOS D1 R1
  5 Jan 2019, 11:08 • ZachFlem   7 Jan 2019, 21:00

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  @bjacobse I liked the look of espEasy, but I had a lot of trouble getting it to connect to my wifi after adding my network settings. (I had to download the latest dev build) I'll have a go at the code you linked though, as I kinda like the idea of keeping mycontroller, and the relay actuator example looks too simple to be true!
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  This topic is deleted!
  4 Jan 2019, 04:19 • huex   4 Jan 2019, 04:19

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  18650 battery power board
  31 Dec 2018, 13:19 • franz-unix   31 Dec 2018, 13:19

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  My Ethernet Gateway Board (W5500)
  23 Jan 2016, 22:20 • jpaulin   30 Dec 2018, 11:58

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  Hi i have the W5500 with pins and board this one and Arduino Uno R3 anything i need to change? i guess i don't need that 3.3 converter right? i did the change of \Ethernet\src flashed the board now i will connect the NRF24 just like you did ? same pins? anything else I should change?
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  Suppprt PIC MCU
  microcontroller mcu pic • 29 Dec 2018, 12:39 • ramack   30 Dec 2018, 08:44

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  Thanks for the answers. For sure it is possible to buy an ATmega and even a full-featured debugger would be acceptable compared to the effort of porting. But still, I am very biased towards the PIC without logical or economical arguments. I did not yet work with the mysensors libraries and only browsed quickly through the github repo. Maybe someone can give me a few hints to estimate the effort deeper than just claiming it as "much workload"? What I see so far is: make the C++ code compile (translate to C with clang/llvm and compile with the XC8 compiler) create a new HAL (in hal/architecture) which seems not too much effort for making it initially working Questions: Do I see it right, that there is a linux-port available? -> I would expect much more effort to port from AVR to linux than to port it to a different MCU What about the licensing? It looks like the code is GPLv2, but in the CLA it seem that contributors need to give away their rights on the contributions and that mysensors can even redistribute the code under another license - which seems completely against the principles of the GPL. Can someone explain that in more detail?
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  Erratic battery reading when powering via RAW pin
  17 Dec 2018, 21:24 • grumpazoid   29 Dec 2018, 16:08

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  29 Dec 2018, 16:08

  @affordabletech Have been busy soldering today. Used pro mini with regulator and LED removed + HC-SR501 with regulator and diode removed. 18650 cell for power. The NRF24 radio us one of the bad ones from with poor range. On TX it used about 4mA but only 42uA while sleeping. Battery reporting is working well.
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  An Esp8266 Nextion Scene controller??
  10 Jan 2016, 09:52 • scalz   28 Dec 2018, 15:10

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  28 Dec 2018, 15:10

  I stumbled across this thread while searching for something related and thought I'd resurrect it to mention my HASwitchPlate project, which utilizes an ESP8266 as a MQTT-to-Nextion gateway to act as a wall-mounted scene controller. The project includes code for the ESP8266, Nextion, and home automation platforms including Home Assistant and OpenHAB. A PCB has been developed to allow running from AC power, and 3D-printable models are provided to mount the project into a single-gang work box common in North America. The end result is a scene controller you can build yourself with all the necessary components (software, electronics, and physical enclosure) ready to download.
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  GPS Tracker with Arduino
  27 Dec 2018, 15:35 • jocke4u   27 Dec 2018, 23:09

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  27 Dec 2018, 23:09

  What about something like this: https://www.cooking-hacks.com/projects/arduino-realtime-gps-gprs-vehicle-tracking
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  Motion Sensor (PIR) and Boost Converter
  22 Dec 2018, 19:19 • david_shb   23 Dec 2018, 16:22

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  23 Dec 2018, 16:22

  Thanks guys, I have one of those modules I will test it out. I have been playing with a combination of 0.1uF and 10uF. It has been performing decently so far. Let's see.
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  Power Consumption of MySensors vs. WiFi
  19 Dec 2018, 16:05 • AlaskaDIY   21 Dec 2018, 15:10

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  21 Dec 2018, 15:10

  @mfalkvidd Thank you, I will check out the battery page.
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  WIFI Gateway using ESP8266 error during compile
  11 Dec 2018, 01:52 • jhussain   16 Dec 2018, 19:10

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  16 Dec 2018, 19:10

  @mfalkvidd You mean I should try 2.4.1? I will do that today or so and report back. Thanks.
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  Sensebender GW update: unknown device
  8 Dec 2018, 12:49 • rafael156   16 Dec 2018, 12:06

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  16 Dec 2018, 12:06

  Any ideas?
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  5V boost converter smoked on first use
  13 Dec 2018, 10:16 • grumpazoid   15 Dec 2018, 00:10

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  @bjacobse Thanks. In the end i removed the solder that was shorting out the capacitor and it now outputs 5V. Not sure how safe it is after the overheat As an experiment I cut the track to take the LED out the circuit. This reduced the current from 2mA down to a few uA.
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  Roller Shutter
  26 Jun 2015, 13:56 • scalz   13 Dec 2018, 13:35

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  13 Dec 2018, 13:35

  I really don't know, I can't help you much. My sugestion would be to back down to a simpler sketch like blink, use the standard arduino ide and try everything. Just then move to more complex projects like roller shutter.